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Hood Pin Thread


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#31 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 06 March 2009 - 01:13 PM

I found aluminum screws on-line at http://www.mcfeelys.com. They come in a box of 100 for like $9, maybe share with others. Should take care of the corrosion issue with the aluminum hood. Let me know what you think. Later.....



They look like they are all painted "white". But I may have missed something.


Now...............

all those who have this car better take those hood pin plates off and at least prime all the bare metal you can cover. On mine, the bubbling occurs not just where the screw holes are but also along the edge of the center hole. What is odd, is that the driver's side only has it (considerable bubbling) and the passenger's side does not.

I sanded all of the affected paint except for a little that extends just beyond the area that's covered by the plate. I Alodined, primed, painted and clear coated both pin hole areas. When it dries, I'm also going to put new plates and silicone pads on. I also have new screws which I clear coated underneath the heads. As far as I can tell I've interrupted the galvanic circuit as much as possible. The only possible connection will be the threads of the screw to the hood, but even that is limited because I Alodined and primed the threaded holes.

It looks like crap but it will be covered by the plates. I hope this is enough to arrest the corrosion.

This can't happen with the CS6 hood!

I bet you Shelby has known about this for quite a while. because the '08 SGT's have a different hood pin design (which I ordered today and will installed ASAP). The clear anodized on the billet aluminum is probably not conducting. They also talk about a Delrin bushing for the pins. I'll have to inspect when I get these, but I bet there is a good deal less possiblity for galvanic corrosion on these than the old ones.

Edited by blueshawk, 06 March 2009 - 04:27 PM.


#32 OFFLINE   bruces

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Posted 07 March 2009 - 11:38 AM

Ive been keeping Wurth spray pres wax from Gemany on underside and every tear remove hood pin plate spray screw holes, pin hole and wax under plate. I wax mine once per week, along with my stripes whcih seems to help. But my car never sees rain and only wash once per year Im sure this has helped.

#33 OFFLINE   twitch43

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Posted 07 March 2009 - 11:51 PM

I bet you Shelby has known about this for quite a while. because the '08 SGT's have a different hood pin design (which I ordered today and will installed ASAP). The clear anodized on the billet aluminum is probably not conducting. They also talk about a Delrin bushing for the pins. I'll have to inspect when I get these, but I bet there is a good deal less possiblity for galvanic corrosion on these than the old ones.


Even with a different hood pin design, my 08 SGT had the same problem. I have an appointment through Military Car Sales for pictures and then they will send it off for warranty information. I'm fairly sure it will be covered by warranty....at least I hope so.

Jessie
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#34 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 05:03 AM

Even with a different hood pin design, my 08 SGT had the same problem. I have an appointment through Military Car Sales for pictures and then they will send it off for warranty information. I'm fairly sure it will be covered by warranty....at least I hope so.

Jessie



Were the holes painted after SAI drilled?

My one side was corroded but the other was not. On the one side, the silicone pad was worn around the screw and pin holes and that's where the plate had contact with the hood. Which is also where the corrosion was worst. In addition to the hood, I also clear coated the screws and the underside of the plate. If this doesn't stop it, then nothing will and hood pins in aluminum or steel is just a bad idea.

#35 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 05:11 AM

Ive been keeping Wurth spray pres wax from Gemany on underside and every tear remove hood pin plate spray screw holes, pin hole and wax under plate. I wax mine once per week, along with my stripes whcih seems to help. But my car never sees rain and only wash once per year Im sure this has helped.



The screws are threaded into aluminum. This is OK if you only intend to remove the screws a few times. If you keep doing it, the threads will eventually wear. Inserts are recommended in this case.

#36 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 08:29 AM

I found aluminum screws on-line at http://www.mcfeelys.com. They come in a box of 100 for like $9, maybe share with others. Should take care of the corrosion issue with the aluminum hood. Let me know what you think. Later.....



I thought about it and I think these may be worth a try. Any one know what size we need? #6 or #8?

#37 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 11:58 AM

I thought about it and I think these may be worth a try. Any one know what size we need? #6 or #8?



I went to Lowes and found an stainless steel #8, 1/2" long that fits nicely in the hood pin screw holes. So I'm going to order the #8-1/2" aluminum pan head screws from McFeelys. I just need to verifiy with them that these are clear alumium and not some colored finish.

#38 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 09 March 2009 - 03:16 PM

I went to Lowes and found an stainless steel #8, 1/2" long that fits nicely in the hood pin screw holes. So I'm going to order the #8-1/2" aluminum pan head screws from McFeelys. I just need to verifiy with them that these are clear alumium and not some colored finish.



The #8-1/2" aluminum screws from McFeelys will work for the "old" hood pin sets ('07 SGT's). Also McMaster-Carr has 3/8" long screws too. However, I can't find a screw that will work with the new hood pin set ('08) because the counterbore in the billet plate is too small for the head of these aluminum screws. In fact the stainless screws I got from Lowe's are also too big. Shelby must be using an odd size screw.

I did find a nylon washer for #8 screws at Lowe's that I will use under the head of the aluminum screw to isolate the screw ASAP from the stainless plate. So now the only possible contact is on the inner edge of the holes in the plate. I figure a little "pressure lube" to lubricate the threads (to keep the threaded holes in the hood from wearing) will also provide some insulation.

The only other option is to open the counterbore in the billet plates a little to allow clearance for the aluminum screw. If I do that, then the clear anodize on the billet plate will be compromised. Nothing seems to be easy.

I'll get the screws and use the nylon washers on the '07 hood pins for now but I'm also going to try to shaving little off the heads of the screws to get them to fit into the '08 billet plates. If that works then we should have a winner.

Edited by blueshawk, 10 March 2009 - 02:28 AM.


#39 OFFLINE   twitch43

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 02:59 AM

Well, my father has been running my car around for the hood pin bubbled paint. Pictures were taken
and sent to Shelby for warranty information. My milage was also taken. While we are waiting on the info from Shelby
My father was asked to get two estimates for repair. Both shops were within 10 bucks of each other. The cheapest was
$644.55. I'm not sure if that is the cost for repainting the hood and re-striping. I'll find out more. It was also suggested that I have the hood replaced at a cost of about $2199.13 because the paint isn't only bubbled on top, it is even worse underneath. So, for those of you who haven't checked the underside of your hood, You might want to give it a look.

I wonder if I can swap it out with a GT-H hood.

Jessie
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#40 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 05:46 AM

Well, my father has been running my car around for the hood pin bubbled paint. Pictures were taken
and sent to Shelby for warranty information. My milage was also taken. While we are waiting on the info from Shelby
My father was asked to get two estimates for repair. Both shops were within 10 bucks of each other. The cheapest was
$644.55. I'm not sure if that is the cost for repainting the hood and re-striping. I'll find out more. It was also suggested that I have the hood replaced at a cost of about $2199.13 because the paint isn't only bubbled on top, it is even worse underneath. So, for those of you who haven't checked the underside of your hood, You might want to give it a look.

I wonder if I can swap it out with a GT-H hood.

Jessie


$644.55 might be enough to paint the hood. But the stripes are gonna run another ~$200 (Shelby cut Oracal stripes) and the labor install is for the stripes and scoop is at least $300.

If they are only going to repaint the hood or swap with a new one and paint, how does this solve the problem? This is a design issue. If they paint and protect all the bare aluminum and use aluminum screws, MAYBE this will be enough to arrest the corrosion. The main idea is not use dissimilar materials (aluminum and CRES) or make sure they are not electrically connected (insulators).

I think the best shot is to use aluminum screws with the '08 billet plates and make sure all the drilled holes in the hood are primed and painted.

Other than that, the GT-H hood is the long term solution to this problem.

It's is amazing that what SAI did for cosmetics regarding the SGT hood (scoop, stripes and now the pins) has resulted in considerable warranty liability. Make no mistake, every one of these hoods will eventually corrode around the pins, it just is a matter of environment (humidity, salt, etc.) and time.

If you are going to have the hood replaced, then tell them to NOT install the pins.

#41 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 08:40 AM

Rivit them on ALL the Grabber orange cars have rivited plates, its a dissimilar metal issue. someone already mentioned galvanic corrosion, google it if you want.. All the hoods are made out of aluminum so the aluminum rivets are the answer. if you do find aluminum screws those would work as well...



Is that true about the rivets? I've ordered the screws and I also suggest using touch-up paint on the edges of all the drilled holes under the plates. This may just be the trick.

#42 OFFLINE   greaser

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 01:21 PM

ok i am going to rivet mine i pulled the plates today and had just the smallest amount of corrosion by one screw. but here is my dilemma do i pop the 100 bucks for the billit shelby plates or stick with a flat plate like these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/...c...A1|240:1318
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#43 OFFLINE   RiverRunner

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 03:38 PM

The billet set is worth it. The ones that come on the car are junk imo. I have the billet set on my work bench and it's an upgrade for sure. The ring on the pins are offset so it will "snap" in place and not flop around like the stock ones.

I dropped our car off today for a new hood scoop and talked the to body shop manager. The entire hood will have to be repainted. Since my bubbles are small I'm going to wait a year as it will likely get worse. I have about 18 months left on the warranty so I'll take care of it later.
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#44 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 03:37 AM

The billet set is worth it. The ones that come on the car are junk imo. I have the billet set on my work bench and it's an upgrade for sure. The ring on the pins are offset so it will "snap" in place and not flop around like the stock ones.

I dropped our car off today for a new hood scoop and talked the to body shop manager. The entire hood will have to be repainted. Since my bubbles are small I'm going to wait a year as it will likely get worse. I have about 18 months left on the warranty so I'll take care of it later.



If you stop the galvanic couple, the corrosion will stop. It doesn't have to get worse. Keep in mind you will also have to use aluminum screws. Even '08 owners have had corrosion because of the stainless steel screws.

Another problem is finding an aluminum screw that fits the counterbore of the billet plate. The head of the SAI screws are somewhat of an oddball and are smaller than the typical #8 screw. I've found aluminum screws, but they are too big for the counterbore.

Edited by blueshawk, 11 March 2009 - 03:44 AM.


#45 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 03:38 AM

ok i am going to rivet mine i pulled the plates today and had just the smallest amount of corrosion by one screw. but here is my dilemma do i pop the 100 bucks for the billit shelby plates or stick with a flat plate like these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/...c...A1|240:1318



Those aluminum hood pin plates (if they match the hole pattern) and an aluminum screw would do the trick.

#46 OFFLINE   SGT/SC#0471

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 04:48 AM

If you stop the galvanic couple, the corrosion will stop. It doesn't have to get worse. Keep in mind you will also have to use aluminum screws. Even '08 owners have had corrosion because of the stainless steel screws.

Another problem is finding an aluminum screw that fits the counterbore of the billet plate. The head of the SAI screws are somewhat of an oddball and are smaller than the typical #8 screw. I've found aluminum screws, but they are too big for the counterbore.



Try metric screw.

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#47 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 05:11 AM

Try metric screw.


All D.l.N. and I.S.O. Metric Sheet Metal Screws are actually standard inch sizes that are converted into millimeters

#48 OFFLINE   SGT/SC#0471

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 07:43 AM

All D.l.N. and I.S.O. Metric Sheet Metal Screws are actually standard inch sizes that are converted into millimeters


Then try a Chinese one... :hysterical:

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#49 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 09:22 AM

Then try a Chinese one... :hysterical:

In case you haven't heard, they are all Chinese......

#50 OFFLINE   SGT/SC#0471

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 09:34 AM

In case you haven't heard, they are all Chinese......


Then it will match the part you are using.

2014 Corvette Z51, 2LT, MSRC, NPP, FAY, 7SP, TRANS TOP. My name is on the dash, (museum delivery).

SOLD: 

07SGT/SC. Driven! Rain or Shine, no refunds. Best 1/4 mile time 12.077 as equpped below.

Performance White, 5sp, iup, anti-theft, navigation. Whipple 550. 1st Customer 550 out of the SAI Mod Shop. (Thanks Budman!).

19x9/19x10 Saleen Heritage Wheels w/275/35 and 295/35 BFG KDW N2.
Brembo Front Calipers, Ferrodo DS2500 pads, Hawk HPS Rear pads, FRPP Brake cooling kit with custom intakes.
Goodridge SS lines and ATE Super Blue Fluid.
Functional Fiberglass SA scoop. Glassed over SA production Sticker.
MMS mufflers.


#51 OFFLINE   SGT/SC#0471

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 09:36 AM

BTW...I can get US made screws here in Seattle at Tacoma Screw. They may have a website.


edit: Your idea to turn the heads down is the best solution.

Edited by mccoystudio, 11 March 2009 - 09:38 AM.

2014 Corvette Z51, 2LT, MSRC, NPP, FAY, 7SP, TRANS TOP. My name is on the dash, (museum delivery).

SOLD: 

07SGT/SC. Driven! Rain or Shine, no refunds. Best 1/4 mile time 12.077 as equpped below.

Performance White, 5sp, iup, anti-theft, navigation. Whipple 550. 1st Customer 550 out of the SAI Mod Shop. (Thanks Budman!).

19x9/19x10 Saleen Heritage Wheels w/275/35 and 295/35 BFG KDW N2.
Brembo Front Calipers, Ferrodo DS2500 pads, Hawk HPS Rear pads, FRPP Brake cooling kit with custom intakes.
Goodridge SS lines and ATE Super Blue Fluid.
Functional Fiberglass SA scoop. Glassed over SA production Sticker.
MMS mufflers.


#52 OFFLINE   greaser

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 09:47 AM

i think i am going to rivet them no matter what set i go with if the GO ones come that way its good enough for me and they can be drilled out easy enough.
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#53 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 11:32 AM

BTW...I can get US made screws here in Seattle at Tacoma Screw. They may have a website.


edit: Your idea to turn the heads down is the best solution.


I was only kidding about all the screws made in China, but many are.

I hope I can grind the diameter down a bit using a Dremel. To increase the counter bore diameters on the plate will require a drill press and counterbore tool, which I don't have. Plus, it would ruin the clear anodize surface in those areas.

I got the billet hood set and was surprised that the "Shelby" version had the letters painted in blue. I have a black '07 so I painted over the blue with some of my base touch-up paint. Looks like a pro did it!

Now I'm just waiting for the screws.................

#54 OFFLINE   SGT/SC#0471

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 05:27 PM

I was only kidding about all the screws made in China, but many are.

I hope I can grind the diameter down a bit using a Dremel. To increase the counter bore diameters on the plate will require a drill press and counterbore tool, which I don't have. Plus, it would ruin the clear anodize surface in those areas.

I got the billet hood set and was surprised that the "Shelby" version had the letters painted in blue. I have a black '07 so I painted over the blue with some of my base touch-up paint. Looks like a pro did it!

Now I'm just waiting for the screws.................



I was only razzing you too...but my favorite is Harley replacement parts with a "made in Tiawain" sticker on them... :hysterical:

I do like the pop rivet idea as well. I would guess that I will have to cross that road as well soon enough as mine are factory on a 07.

Keep us posted with what you find....and how it turns out. Cheers!

2014 Corvette Z51, 2LT, MSRC, NPP, FAY, 7SP, TRANS TOP. My name is on the dash, (museum delivery).

SOLD: 

07SGT/SC. Driven! Rain or Shine, no refunds. Best 1/4 mile time 12.077 as equpped below.

Performance White, 5sp, iup, anti-theft, navigation. Whipple 550. 1st Customer 550 out of the SAI Mod Shop. (Thanks Budman!).

19x9/19x10 Saleen Heritage Wheels w/275/35 and 295/35 BFG KDW N2.
Brembo Front Calipers, Ferrodo DS2500 pads, Hawk HPS Rear pads, FRPP Brake cooling kit with custom intakes.
Goodridge SS lines and ATE Super Blue Fluid.
Functional Fiberglass SA scoop. Glassed over SA production Sticker.
MMS mufflers.


#55 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 03:25 AM

I was only razzing you too...but my favorite is Harley replacement parts with a "made in Tiawain" sticker on them... :hysterical:

I do like the pop rivet idea as well. I would guess that I will have to cross that road as well soon enough as mine are factory on a 07.

Keep us posted with what you find....and how it turns out. Cheers!



I think that either aluminum rivets or screws are an improvement. Just be sure to layer-up some touch-up paint in the areas around the drilled holes to keep the stainless plate from crushing the rubber pad and causing contact with the hood. Might also want to use some clear RTV silicone on the rivets or screws when installing to further isolate the plate.

Edited by blueshawk, 12 March 2009 - 03:29 AM.


#56 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 13 March 2009 - 02:22 AM

I think that either aluminum rivets or screws are an improvement. Just be sure to layer-up some touch-up paint in the areas around the drilled holes to keep the stainless plate from crushing the rubber pad and causing contact with the hood. Might also want to use some clear RTV silicone on the rivets or screws when installing to further isolate the plate.



I talked to a guy I work with who has done car restorations for a long time (he's really good). He says stainless steel and aluminum NEED to be kept apart. So even the heads of aluminum screws (or rivets) in contact with the stainless plate will eventually corrode. He wasn't too sure if RTV would help.

#57 OFFLINE   twitch43

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Posted 13 March 2009 - 03:11 AM

I talked to a guy I work with who has done car restorations for a long time (he's really good). He says stainless steel and aluminum NEED to be kept apart. So even the heads of aluminum screws (or rivets) in contact with the stainless plate will eventually corrode. He wasn't too sure if RTV would help.


I think replacing the steel plates with billet aluminum ones and using aluminum screws/rivets as well as all prep work would be the best option to arrest this corrosion issue.

I'm thinking of the GT-H hood (it's made from fiberglass) for mine if it would fit an 08 SGT.
08SGT1596
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Painted Le Mans Stripes
Shaker 1000 Sound System
Auto Transmission
JLT CAI with 91 octane tune
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#58 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 13 March 2009 - 03:24 AM

I think replacing the steel plates with billet aluminum ones and using aluminum screws/rivets as well as all prep work would be the best option to arrest this corrosion issue.

I'm thinking of the GT-H hood (it's made from fiberglass) for mine if it would fit an 08 SGT.



I'll have to take a look at my billet plates to see if you can actually get a rivet tool to work with the counterbored holes. I don't think the one I have will work. My screws are to be delivered today and I'll get the heads ground to fit the counterbore and try to install them this weekend.

#59 OFFLINE   blueshawk

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Posted 14 March 2009 - 06:10 AM

I'll have to take a look at my billet plates to see if you can actually get a rivet tool to work with the counterbored holes. I don't think the one I have will work. My screws are to be delivered today and I'll get the heads ground to fit the counterbore and try to install them this weekend.



I got the #8 aluminum screws from McFeely's along with a square bit and installed them into the '07 hood plate. They work fine, but I would use some lube to keep from galling. But do not use graphite grease because it is also conductive. I also ground the head diameter of another set of screws and they fit the '08 billet plates which I'll install this weekend.

Edited by blueshawk, 14 March 2009 - 06:13 AM.


#60 OFFLINE   twitch43

twitch43

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 12:55 AM

Just got word that Shelby authorized the repair to my hood. I think they will repaint the entire hood after fixing the corrosion around the hood pins and then re-stripe it.
I would know more, but being on an aircraft carrier, my ships's email is down but I have internet and can't get anymore information for now.
08SGT1596
Shelby Deep Draw Hood
Painted Le Mans Stripes
Shaker 1000 Sound System
Auto Transmission
JLT CAI with 91 octane tune
MMS Custom Axle Backs

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