174 replies to this topic

[blueshawk]

07-2937, on Mar 10 2009, 10:04 AM, said:

Rivit them on  ALL the Grabber orange cars have rivited plates, its a dissimilar metal issue. someone already mentioned galvanic corrosion, google it if you want..  All the hoods are made out of aluminum so the aluminum rivets are the answer. if you do find aluminum screws those would work as well...

Is that true about the rivets?  I've ordered the screws and I also suggest using touch-up paint on the edges of all the drilled holes under the plates.  This may just be the trick.

[greaser]

ok i am going to rivet mine i pulled the plates today and had just the smallest amount of corrosion by one screw. but here is my dilemma do i pop the 100 bucks for the billit shelby plates or stick with a flat plate like these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/...c...A1|240:1318

[RiverRunner]

The billet set is worth it.  The ones that come on the car are junk imo.  I have the billet set on my work bench and it's an upgrade for sure. The ring on the pins are offset so it will "snap" in place and not flop around like the stock ones.

I dropped our car off today for a new hood scoop and talked the to body shop manager.  The entire hood will have to be repainted.  Since my bubbles are small I'm going to wait a year as it will likely get worse.  I have about 18 months left on the warranty so I'll take care of it later.

[blueshawk]

RiverRunner, on Mar 10 2009, 07:38 PM, said:

The billet set is worth it.  The ones that come on the car are junk imo.  I have the billet set on my work bench and it's an upgrade for sure. The ring on the pins are offset so it will "snap" in place and not flop around like the stock ones.

I dropped our car off today for a new hood scoop and talked the to body shop manager.  The entire hood will have to be repainted.  Since my bubbles are small I'm going to wait a year as it will likely get worse.  I have about 18 months left on the warranty so I'll take care of it later.

If you stop the galvanic couple, the corrosion will stop. It doesn't have to get worse.  Keep in mind you will also have to use aluminum screws.  Even '08 owners have had corrosion because of the stainless steel screws.  

Another problem is finding an aluminum screw that fits the counterbore of the billet plate.  The head of the SAI screws are somewhat of an oddball and are smaller than the typical #8 screw.  I've found aluminum screws, but they are too big for the counterbore.

Edited by blueshawk, 11 March 2009 - 03:44 AM.

[blueshawk]

greaser, on Mar 10 2009, 05:21 PM, said:

ok i am going to rivet mine i pulled the plates today and had just the smallest amount of corrosion by one screw. but here is my dilemma do i pop the 100 bucks for the billit shelby plates or stick with a flat plate like these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/...c...A1|240:1318

Those aluminum hood pin plates (if they match the hole pattern) and an aluminum screw would do the trick.

[SGT/SC#0471]

blueshawk, on Mar 11 2009, 04:37 AM, said:

If you stop the galvanic couple, the corrosion will stop. It doesn't have to get worse.  Keep in mind you will also have to use aluminum screws.  Even '08 owners have had corrosion because of the stainless steel screws.  

Another problem is finding an aluminum screw that fits the counterbore of the billet plate.  The head of the SAI screws are somewhat of an oddball and are smaller than the typical #8 screw.  I've found aluminum screws, but they are too big for the counterbore.

Try metric screw.

[blueshawk]

mccoystudio, on Mar 11 2009, 08:48 AM, said:

Try metric screw.

All D.l.N. and I.S.O. Metric Sheet Metal Screws are actually standard inch sizes that are converted into millimeters

[SGT/SC#0471]

blueshawk, on Mar 11 2009, 06:11 AM, said:

All D.l.N. and I.S.O. Metric Sheet Metal Screws are actually standard inch sizes that are converted into millimeters

Then try a Chinese one...

[blueshawk]

mccoystudio, on Mar 11 2009, 11:43 AM, said:

Then try a Chinese one...

In case you haven't heard,  they are all Chinese......

[SGT/SC#0471]

blueshawk, on Mar 11 2009, 10:22 AM, said:

In case you haven't heard,  they are all Chinese......

Then it will match the part you are using.

[SGT/SC#0471]

BTW...I can get US made screws here in Seattle at Tacoma Screw. They may have a website.


edit: Your idea to turn the heads down is the best solution.

Edited by mccoystudio, 11 March 2009 - 09:38 AM.

[greaser]

i think i am going to rivet them no matter what set i go with if the GO ones come that way its good enough for me and they can be drilled out easy enough.

[blueshawk]

mccoystudio, on Mar 11 2009, 01:36 PM, said:

BTW...I can get US made screws here in Seattle at Tacoma Screw. They may have a website.


edit: Your idea to turn the heads down is the best solution.

I was only kidding about all the screws made in China, but many are.

I hope I can grind the diameter down a bit using a Dremel.  To increase the counter bore diameters on the plate will require a drill press and counterbore tool, which I don't have.  Plus, it would ruin the clear anodize surface in those areas.

I got the billet hood set and was surprised that the "Shelby" version had the letters painted in blue.  I have a black '07 so I painted over the blue with some of my base touch-up paint.  Looks like a pro did it!

Now I'm just waiting for the screws.................

[SGT/SC#0471]

blueshawk, on Mar 11 2009, 12:32 PM, said:

I was only kidding about all the screws made in China, but many are.

I hope I can grind the diameter down a bit using a Dremel.  To increase the counter bore diameters on the plate will require a drill press and counterbore tool, which I don't have.  Plus, it would ruin the clear anodize surface in those areas.

I got the billet hood set and was surprised that the "Shelby" version had the letters painted in blue.  I have a black '07 so I painted over the blue with some of my base touch-up paint.  Looks like a pro did it!

Now I'm just waiting for the screws.................

I was only razzing you too...but my favorite is Harley replacement parts with a "made in Tiawain" sticker on them...  

I do like the pop rivet idea as well. I would guess that I will have to cross that road as well soon enough as mine are factory on a 07.

Keep us posted with what you find....and how it turns out. Cheers!

[blueshawk]

mccoystudio, on Mar 11 2009, 09:27 PM, said:

I was only razzing you too...but my favorite is Harley replacement parts with a "made in Tiawain" sticker on them...  

I do like the pop rivet idea as well. I would guess that I will have to cross that road as well soon enough as mine are factory on a 07.

Keep us posted with what you find....and how it turns out. Cheers!

I think that either aluminum rivets or screws are an improvement.  Just be sure to layer-up some touch-up paint in the areas around the drilled holes to keep the stainless plate from crushing the rubber pad and causing contact with the hood.  Might also want to use some clear RTV silicone on the rivets or screws when installing to further isolate the plate.

Edited by blueshawk, 12 March 2009 - 03:29 AM.

[blueshawk]

blueshawk, on Mar 12 2009, 07:25 AM, said:

I think that either aluminum rivets or screws are an improvement.  Just be sure to layer-up some touch-up paint in the areas around the drilled holes to keep the stainless plate from crushing the rubber pad and causing contact with the hood.  Might also want to use some clear RTV silicone on the rivets or screws when installing to further isolate the plate.

I talked to a guy I work with who has done car restorations for a long time (he's really good).  He says stainless steel and aluminum NEED to be kept apart.  So even the heads of aluminum screws (or rivets) in contact with the stainless plate will eventually corrode.  He wasn't too sure if RTV would help.

[twitch43]

blueshawk, on Mar 13 2009, 02:22 AM, said:

I talked to a guy I work with who has done car restorations for a long time (he's really good).  He says stainless steel and aluminum NEED to be kept apart.  So even the heads of aluminum screws (or rivets) in contact with the stainless plate will eventually corrode.  He wasn't too sure if RTV would help.

I think replacing the steel plates with billet aluminum ones and using aluminum screws/rivets as well as all prep work would be the best option to arrest this corrosion issue.

I'm thinking of the GT-H hood (it's made from fiberglass) for mine if it would fit an 08 SGT.

[blueshawk]

twitch43, on Mar 13 2009, 07:11 AM, said:

I think replacing the steel plates with billet aluminum ones and using aluminum screws/rivets as well as all prep work would be the best option to arrest this corrosion issue.

I'm thinking of the GT-H hood (it's made from fiberglass) for mine if it would fit an 08 SGT.

I'll have to take a look at my billet plates to see if you can actually get a rivet tool to work with the counterbored holes.  I don't think the one I have will work.  My screws are to be delivered today and I'll get the heads ground to fit the counterbore and try to install them this weekend.

[blueshawk]

blueshawk, on Mar 13 2009, 07:24 AM, said:

I'll have to take a look at my billet plates to see if you can actually get a rivet tool to work with the counterbored holes.  I don't think the one I have will work.  My screws are to be delivered today and I'll get the heads ground to fit the counterbore and try to install them this weekend.

I got the #8 aluminum screws from McFeely's along with a square bit and installed them into the '07 hood plate.  They work fine, but I would use some lube to keep from galling.  But do not use graphite grease because it is also conductive.  I also ground the head diameter of another set of screws and they fit the '08 billet plates which I'll install this weekend.

Edited by blueshawk, 14 March 2009 - 06:13 AM.

[twitch43]

Just got word that Shelby authorized the repair to my hood.  I think they will repaint the entire hood after fixing the corrosion around the hood pins and then re-stripe it.
I would know more, but being on an aircraft carrier, my ships's email is down but I have internet and can't get anymore information for now.