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Rusty hood pin lanyards


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#1 OFFLINE   blueone

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 07:09 AM

Have they fixed this problem yet? I really don't want the hassle of going through the warranty process to get this fixed and was wondering if anyone knew if it is possible to just buy another set that won't rust without buying a whole new pin kit.
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#2 OFFLINE   clark17357

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 07:14 AM

I asked Bud at SAI about this and he e-mailed my back something about how to deal with it. That e-mail is at work but I will try and find it for you. Whatever it was, it was pretty simple.
Jim

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2008 Shelby GT Mustang, Vista Blue with Silver Stripes, 5-Speed, Coupe, CSM Number 08SGT0282. Shelby Las Vegas Mod Shop additions: Center gauge cluster, Kenne Bell polished supercharger, Lower grille with front and rear brake ducts w/o driving lights, Sequential directional lights. Installed post Mod Shop: AP Racing brakes (6-piston front, 4-piston rear), Fays2 Watts Link, GT500KR wheels and Goodyear F1 Supercar tires, Compass/temp/homelink rear view mirror, IUP gauges retrofit, Roger's IUP steering wheel, Metco upper and lower control arms, BBR 3.5" aluminum drive shaft, BMR front drive shaft safety loop; Autopower four point roll bar, Autopower five point racing harnesses (both sides), camber/caster plates, JBA shorty headers, QTP exhaust cutouts, Safecraft fire suppression system, Shelby/Revan Racing radiator, heat exchanger, and Shelby/Revan Racing black anodized underhood tanks, and Ford Racing power steering cooler. McCloud twin disk clutch with aluminum flywheel.  Dyno results: 453 rear wheel torque, 447 rear wheel horse power @ 67 degrees F, 75% humidity @ sea level.


#3 OFFLINE   LuLu

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 07:34 AM

Last I heard anything on this, the issue was resolved with a replacement part, but the replacement requires filing a warranty claim and return of old parts.

Don't quote me on this, it was a while back.

#4 OFFLINE   blueone

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 07:38 AM

I asked Bud at SAI about this and he e-mailed my back something about how to deal with it. That e-mail is at work but I will try and find it for you. Whatever it was, it was pretty simple.
Jim


Thanks, Jim
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#5 OFFLINE   motorjock205

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 08:08 AM

All, I had this problem back in June and went to the dealer, and they said SAI wanted digital pictures, and all that...then I got the following post from Keith Criswell at SAI...

Hi Guys,
I will replace anyones lanyards if the need be. Please don't see this as an opportunity to recieve back-ups for the ones you currently have that may be fine but an offer of replacement for those that have bad ones. You can email me kcriswell@shelbyperformanceparts.com or call (email is better if you have it). Just give me your name, ship-to address and CSM number and I'll send them out free of charge USPS. It will include the lanyards, snap rings and pins. Thanks!
-Keith

If you send Keith an email, he'll send you a new set of lanyards...mine were in the mail when I got back from Vacation. Unfortunately, though, it looks as if I might be getting the same thing again under the plastic on the lanyard itself...just noticed it a day or two ago...the parts that connect to the actual pins though are still in great shape where my old ones looked rusty there...

Hope this helps if you have not replaced your lanyards before....

Carl Ervin
Midland, Texas
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#6 OFFLINE   jaydub Mach1

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 11:18 AM

I'm on my third set. All have rusted after several weeks, including the current ones.

I live in the San Francisco area, so corrision isn't usually a problem like in some other areas of the US.

I even sprayed WD-40 into both ends of the cable and on the clevis on this last set, that I installed in August. But, it didn't make any difference. It started to rust in the usual time of about several weeks.

So, I ordered a fourth replacement, but haven't installed them, yet.
2007 Shelby GT-California #4765; White/Gray 5 spd IUP Active Anti-Theft Shelby-GT California Sill Plates 'Bama Tune Shelby Plate Replaced FRPP on Front Strut Brace Bilsteins Struts/Shocks (Amazing Ride) Eibach Camber Bolts Adjustable Pan Hard Rod Shelby GT Wheel Caps Berg Faux Fuel Cap Cover and Steering Wheel Emblem Traded in: 2004 Mach 1 Azure Blue; 5 spd, IUP 281 Cobra Jet

#7 OFFLINE   ingram4868

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 11:28 AM

They rust in the high and dry desert too. And when they rust it looks like a really cheap product.

Edited by ingram4868, 27 November 2008 - 05:43 PM.

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#8 OFFLINE   twobjshelbys

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 03:53 PM

When I went to Vegas in August I stopped by Shelby Parts to get the sequential tail light kit. The fellow there wanted to see the BJ so he came out and looked at and then said "I'll be right back" and came out with two new pins/lanyards. The car had never been in any rain or other moisture - always garaged and it's dry as parchment here. Bud's crew installed the replacements when it was there to get the KB.
Cheers,
Tony

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#9 OFFLINE   WildAzCat

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 12:09 PM

Thanks for the info. Mine look so bad I don't even use them. I just tucked them under the hood.
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#10 OFFLINE   blueone

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 01:29 PM

Thanks for the info. Mine look so bad I don't even use them. I just tucked them under the hood.


+1

I do the same.
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#11 OFFLINE   ilmor

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 01:48 PM

Was this an "'08" problem only? I notice that most all the posters so far on this thread have blue SGT's.
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#12 OFFLINE   twobjshelbys

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 02:38 PM

Was this an "'08" problem only? I notice that most all the posters so far on this thread have blue SGT's.


Not blue, but yes, '08.
Cheers,
Tony

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CSM08SGT2247 - Barrett Jackson Special Edition Convertible, Automatic. Kenne Bell S/C installed. WHOOT!
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#13 OFFLINE   WildAzCat

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 07:09 PM

It's embarrassing to pay so much for a car that has so many quirks. I still love it... but damn.
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#14 OFFLINE   jaydub Mach1

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Posted 28 November 2008 - 07:36 PM

Was this an "'08" problem only? I notice that most all the posters so far on this thread have blue SGT's.


My '07 has had it, too
2007 Shelby GT-California #4765; White/Gray 5 spd IUP Active Anti-Theft Shelby-GT California Sill Plates 'Bama Tune Shelby Plate Replaced FRPP on Front Strut Brace Bilsteins Struts/Shocks (Amazing Ride) Eibach Camber Bolts Adjustable Pan Hard Rod Shelby GT Wheel Caps Berg Faux Fuel Cap Cover and Steering Wheel Emblem Traded in: 2004 Mach 1 Azure Blue; 5 spd, IUP 281 Cobra Jet

#15 OFFLINE   TClark1976

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 08:28 AM

I too had this problem with my lanyard cables - mine were rusting at the spot where the snap ring attaches to the lanyard.
I haven't installed the second set yet. . . .

I'm almost wondering if there's not some generic pins you can buy out there that don't have the lanyard cables???
For those that have tucked them away behind the grille, at least having something out front there looks better than the pucks with no pins. They sorta look like naked nipples out there . . . . add some hardware and get some new piercings!! :spiteful:

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Edited by TClark1976, 29 November 2008 - 09:12 AM.

2008 SHELBY GT - CSM# 08SGT0758 - Team Shelby Member#: 2574 (Trevor Clark) __>>> Most Current Photos! <<<
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I wanted to work on some of the contact spots on the underside prior to reinstallation of the CS6 Hood. Maybe some custom work of some kind.


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#16 OFFLINE   07SGT4578

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 08:34 AM

I know all you guys are having these problems with the 08 cars. When i put my billit hood pins on I allready had to use the stock bracket as the new ones would not fit, I also had to use the old screws, so I used the old lanyards too. Maybe you guys should just get a set of lanyards for the stainless hoodpins mine are a year and a half old and look like new. Chris
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#17 OFFLINE   motorjock205

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 09:37 AM

I know all you guys are having these problems with the 08 cars. When i put my billit hood pins on I allready had to use the stock bracket as the new ones would not fit, I also had to use the old screws, so I used the old lanyards too. Maybe you guys should just get a set of lanyards for the stainless hoodpins mine are a year and a half old and look like new. Chris


Well, ,something is wrong somewhere...I'm on my second set, and others are on their third or fourth set...It shouldn't be that hard to get right! It doesn't rain much out here in West Texas, but my new lanyards haven't seen any water since I put them on either! I don't wash the car with water, I only use cleaner/polish sprays on it...humidity doesn't get that high here either...and the car sits in the garage when the weather gets bad and when she's parked...There has to be an answer...just have to find good stainless steel material that hasn't been contaminated in any way before the plastic coating gets put on it...

My first set looked like Treavor's above, but it seemed to run down the cable as well and looked bad....on my second set, the clips at the lanyards look fine, but I'm seeing some of that brown appearing in the lanyard cable itself down about half way...

BTW, I kept my rings from the last set and I can use them without any lanyards...If this doesn't get solved, I'll just remove the lanyards by drilling out the rivets and use the pins and rings by themselves...

Edited by motorjock205, 29 November 2008 - 09:39 AM.

Carl Ervin
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#18 OFFLINE   blueone

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 10:02 AM

You can take the lanyard off the pin by simply pulling it outward a little and it will come out of the hole, slide the lanyard off and then it will pop right back in the hole.
Jeff
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Edited by blueone, 29 November 2008 - 10:09 AM.

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#19 OFFLINE   clark17357

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 10:04 AM

BTW, I kept my rings from the last set and I can use them without any lanyards...If this doesn't get solved, I'll just remove the lanyards by drilling out the rivets and use the pins and rings by themselves...

But then you will have to keep a sharp eye on the pins as they will tend to "walk away" without the security of the lanyards. But all the nonesense aside, the only every day purpose of the lanyards is so you do not misplace the pins. Back in the 60's we just put the darn things in our pocket.
Jim

th_Alcoa023.jpg th_Alcoa027.jpg th_Alcoa035.jpg th_Alcoa021.jpg th_Spin1.jpg

2008 Shelby GT Mustang, Vista Blue with Silver Stripes, 5-Speed, Coupe, CSM Number 08SGT0282. Shelby Las Vegas Mod Shop additions: Center gauge cluster, Kenne Bell polished supercharger, Lower grille with front and rear brake ducts w/o driving lights, Sequential directional lights. Installed post Mod Shop: AP Racing brakes (6-piston front, 4-piston rear), Fays2 Watts Link, GT500KR wheels and Goodyear F1 Supercar tires, Compass/temp/homelink rear view mirror, IUP gauges retrofit, Roger's IUP steering wheel, Metco upper and lower control arms, BBR 3.5" aluminum drive shaft, BMR front drive shaft safety loop; Autopower four point roll bar, Autopower five point racing harnesses (both sides), camber/caster plates, JBA shorty headers, QTP exhaust cutouts, Safecraft fire suppression system, Shelby/Revan Racing radiator, heat exchanger, and Shelby/Revan Racing black anodized underhood tanks, and Ford Racing power steering cooler. McCloud twin disk clutch with aluminum flywheel.  Dyno results: 453 rear wheel torque, 447 rear wheel horse power @ 67 degrees F, 75% humidity @ sea level.


#20 OFFLINE   AndyGJ

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 10:18 AM

Mine developed this problem a few months ago, but I have not had time to address it. I think I will get the replacement parts from SAI and just use the pins with out the cables. Mine have rusted even though it does not see rain at all and parked indoors in climate controlled garage 24/7. It is humid here in GA though, but still would not expect these to rust after just a couple of months. I am glad to see that SAI is making the process of getting the replacements this simple.

Thanks for all the info and suggestions.

Andy.

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#21 OFFLINE   clark17357

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 10:35 AM

You can take the lanyard off the pin by simply pulling it outward a little and it will come out of the hole, slide the lanyard off and then it will pop right back in the hole.
Jeff
Attached File  Picture_056.jpg   44.33KB   54 downloads Attached File  Picture_057.jpg   34.22KB   46 downloads

Nicely done.
Jim

th_Alcoa023.jpg th_Alcoa027.jpg th_Alcoa035.jpg th_Alcoa021.jpg th_Spin1.jpg

2008 Shelby GT Mustang, Vista Blue with Silver Stripes, 5-Speed, Coupe, CSM Number 08SGT0282. Shelby Las Vegas Mod Shop additions: Center gauge cluster, Kenne Bell polished supercharger, Lower grille with front and rear brake ducts w/o driving lights, Sequential directional lights. Installed post Mod Shop: AP Racing brakes (6-piston front, 4-piston rear), Fays2 Watts Link, GT500KR wheels and Goodyear F1 Supercar tires, Compass/temp/homelink rear view mirror, IUP gauges retrofit, Roger's IUP steering wheel, Metco upper and lower control arms, BBR 3.5" aluminum drive shaft, BMR front drive shaft safety loop; Autopower four point roll bar, Autopower five point racing harnesses (both sides), camber/caster plates, JBA shorty headers, QTP exhaust cutouts, Safecraft fire suppression system, Shelby/Revan Racing radiator, heat exchanger, and Shelby/Revan Racing black anodized underhood tanks, and Ford Racing power steering cooler. McCloud twin disk clutch with aluminum flywheel.  Dyno results: 453 rear wheel torque, 447 rear wheel horse power @ 67 degrees F, 75% humidity @ sea level.


#22 OFFLINE   clark17357

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 10:52 AM

Check out this web site for lanyards: http://www.up22.com/...es.htm#Lanyards
They say aircraft quality and they are plastic coated. I suspect one of us will have to find a source for a replacement that is better quality than from where SAI sources theirs. Because I am at work and my car is at home, does anyone have the length of the lanyard handy? Thanks.
Jim

th_Alcoa023.jpg th_Alcoa027.jpg th_Alcoa035.jpg th_Alcoa021.jpg th_Spin1.jpg

2008 Shelby GT Mustang, Vista Blue with Silver Stripes, 5-Speed, Coupe, CSM Number 08SGT0282. Shelby Las Vegas Mod Shop additions: Center gauge cluster, Kenne Bell polished supercharger, Lower grille with front and rear brake ducts w/o driving lights, Sequential directional lights. Installed post Mod Shop: AP Racing brakes (6-piston front, 4-piston rear), Fays2 Watts Link, GT500KR wheels and Goodyear F1 Supercar tires, Compass/temp/homelink rear view mirror, IUP gauges retrofit, Roger's IUP steering wheel, Metco upper and lower control arms, BBR 3.5" aluminum drive shaft, BMR front drive shaft safety loop; Autopower four point roll bar, Autopower five point racing harnesses (both sides), camber/caster plates, JBA shorty headers, QTP exhaust cutouts, Safecraft fire suppression system, Shelby/Revan Racing radiator, heat exchanger, and Shelby/Revan Racing black anodized underhood tanks, and Ford Racing power steering cooler. McCloud twin disk clutch with aluminum flywheel.  Dyno results: 453 rear wheel torque, 447 rear wheel horse power @ 67 degrees F, 75% humidity @ sea level.


#23 OFFLINE   blueone

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 10:59 AM

Check out this web site for lanyards: http://www.up22.com/...es.htm#Lanyards
They say aircraft quality and they are plastic coated. I suspect one of us will have to find a source for a replacement that is better quality than from where SAI sources theirs. Because I am at work and my car is at home, does anyone have the length of the lanyard handy? Thanks.
Jim



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#24 OFFLINE   clark17357

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 12:41 PM

Check out this web site for lanyards: http://www.up22.com/...es.htm#Lanyards
They say aircraft quality and they are plastic coated. I suspect one of us will have to find a source for a replacement that is better quality than from where SAI sources theirs. Because I am at work and my car is at home, does anyone have the length of the lanyard handy? Thanks.
Jim

Thanks for the length, Blueone. I ordered a pair of them and I will see what I think when I get them. Should not take too long as the company is just up the road from me.
Jim

Edited by clark17357, 29 November 2008 - 12:41 PM.

th_Alcoa023.jpg th_Alcoa027.jpg th_Alcoa035.jpg th_Alcoa021.jpg th_Spin1.jpg

2008 Shelby GT Mustang, Vista Blue with Silver Stripes, 5-Speed, Coupe, CSM Number 08SGT0282. Shelby Las Vegas Mod Shop additions: Center gauge cluster, Kenne Bell polished supercharger, Lower grille with front and rear brake ducts w/o driving lights, Sequential directional lights. Installed post Mod Shop: AP Racing brakes (6-piston front, 4-piston rear), Fays2 Watts Link, GT500KR wheels and Goodyear F1 Supercar tires, Compass/temp/homelink rear view mirror, IUP gauges retrofit, Roger's IUP steering wheel, Metco upper and lower control arms, BBR 3.5" aluminum drive shaft, BMR front drive shaft safety loop; Autopower four point roll bar, Autopower five point racing harnesses (both sides), camber/caster plates, JBA shorty headers, QTP exhaust cutouts, Safecraft fire suppression system, Shelby/Revan Racing radiator, heat exchanger, and Shelby/Revan Racing black anodized underhood tanks, and Ford Racing power steering cooler. McCloud twin disk clutch with aluminum flywheel.  Dyno results: 453 rear wheel torque, 447 rear wheel horse power @ 67 degrees F, 75% humidity @ sea level.


#25 OFFLINE   SGT/SC2873

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 12:58 PM

Was this an "'08" problem only? I notice that most all the posters so far on this thread have blue SGT's.

Ilmor, it is not unique just to '08's. I have the same problem on my '07 and it stays garaged most of the time. Just haven't had time to do anything about it. Craig
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#26 OFFLINE   jaydub Mach1

jaydub Mach1

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 12:59 PM

I too had this problem with my lanyard cables - mine were rusting at the spot where the snap ring attaches to the lanyard.
I haven't installed the second set yet. . . .

I'm almost wondering if there's not some generic pins you can buy out there that don't have the lanyard cables???
For those that have tucked them away behind the grille, at least having something out front there looks better than the pucks with no pins. They sorta look like naked nipples out there . . . . add some hardware and get some new piercings!! :spiteful:


My third set, so the fourth set including the ones that came with the kit, all like like TClark's too. :headscratch: :headscratch:
2007 Shelby GT-California #4765; White/Gray 5 spd IUP Active Anti-Theft Shelby-GT California Sill Plates 'Bama Tune Shelby Plate Replaced FRPP on Front Strut Brace Bilsteins Struts/Shocks (Amazing Ride) Eibach Camber Bolts Adjustable Pan Hard Rod Shelby GT Wheel Caps Berg Faux Fuel Cap Cover and Steering Wheel Emblem Traded in: 2004 Mach 1 Azure Blue; 5 spd, IUP 281 Cobra Jet

#27 OFFLINE   motorjock205

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Posted 29 November 2008 - 02:04 PM

But then you will have to keep a sharp eye on the pins as they will tend to "walk away" without the security of the lanyards. But all the nonesense aside, the only every day purpose of the lanyards is so you do not misplace the pins. Back in the 60's we just put the darn things in our pocket.
Jim


+100 We must be near the same age Jim! :D

Carl Ervin
Midland, Texas
2012 Shelby GT500 Performance White with Red Stripes, Performance Package, Recaro Seats

 

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#28 OFFLINE   clark17357

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 01:30 PM

Thanks for the length, Blueone. I ordered a pair of them and I will see what I think when I get them. Should not take too long as the company is just up the road from me.
Jim

I got the lanyards. They are much more hardy (but less pretty) than the stock ones. They have the look that they will not rust but they have a duller finish. They don't have the nifty swivels on the part that attaches to the pin. If anyone is interested in photos, I will post them. They are a better product by far and no one, other than another Shelby owner, would know the difference.
Jim

th_Alcoa023.jpg th_Alcoa027.jpg th_Alcoa035.jpg th_Alcoa021.jpg th_Spin1.jpg

2008 Shelby GT Mustang, Vista Blue with Silver Stripes, 5-Speed, Coupe, CSM Number 08SGT0282. Shelby Las Vegas Mod Shop additions: Center gauge cluster, Kenne Bell polished supercharger, Lower grille with front and rear brake ducts w/o driving lights, Sequential directional lights. Installed post Mod Shop: AP Racing brakes (6-piston front, 4-piston rear), Fays2 Watts Link, GT500KR wheels and Goodyear F1 Supercar tires, Compass/temp/homelink rear view mirror, IUP gauges retrofit, Roger's IUP steering wheel, Metco upper and lower control arms, BBR 3.5" aluminum drive shaft, BMR front drive shaft safety loop; Autopower four point roll bar, Autopower five point racing harnesses (both sides), camber/caster plates, JBA shorty headers, QTP exhaust cutouts, Safecraft fire suppression system, Shelby/Revan Racing radiator, heat exchanger, and Shelby/Revan Racing black anodized underhood tanks, and Ford Racing power steering cooler. McCloud twin disk clutch with aluminum flywheel.  Dyno results: 453 rear wheel torque, 447 rear wheel horse power @ 67 degrees F, 75% humidity @ sea level.


#29 OFFLINE   WildAzCat

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 01:35 PM

I'm interested in some pics. I've had it with my rust problem. I tucked them under the hood but the car just doesn't look right without them. Kind of looks like my car is always cold...
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#30 OFFLINE   clark17357

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Posted 12 December 2008 - 01:43 PM

I'm interested in some pics. I've had it with my rust problem. I tucked them under the hood but the car just doesn't look right without them. Kind of looks like my car is always cold...

When I get home, I will shoot some photos with the new ones laid next to the original and post them.
Jim

th_Alcoa023.jpg th_Alcoa027.jpg th_Alcoa035.jpg th_Alcoa021.jpg th_Spin1.jpg

2008 Shelby GT Mustang, Vista Blue with Silver Stripes, 5-Speed, Coupe, CSM Number 08SGT0282. Shelby Las Vegas Mod Shop additions: Center gauge cluster, Kenne Bell polished supercharger, Lower grille with front and rear brake ducts w/o driving lights, Sequential directional lights. Installed post Mod Shop: AP Racing brakes (6-piston front, 4-piston rear), Fays2 Watts Link, GT500KR wheels and Goodyear F1 Supercar tires, Compass/temp/homelink rear view mirror, IUP gauges retrofit, Roger's IUP steering wheel, Metco upper and lower control arms, BBR 3.5" aluminum drive shaft, BMR front drive shaft safety loop; Autopower four point roll bar, Autopower five point racing harnesses (both sides), camber/caster plates, JBA shorty headers, QTP exhaust cutouts, Safecraft fire suppression system, Shelby/Revan Racing radiator, heat exchanger, and Shelby/Revan Racing black anodized underhood tanks, and Ford Racing power steering cooler. McCloud twin disk clutch with aluminum flywheel.  Dyno results: 453 rear wheel torque, 447 rear wheel horse power @ 67 degrees F, 75% humidity @ sea level.





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