MrFarmdog's Fender Stripe Install thread!!!
#1 OFFLINE
Posted 11 June 2009 - 09:38 PM
Putting fender stripes on your car is all about technique. Some of it you can learn from pictures but in the end there is no substitute for experience when working with vinyl. Some vinyl is easier to install than others. Here is a breakdown:
INFO ON VINYL
Plain colored 8 or 6 year vinyl - (red stripes, white stripes, gloss black, yellow, etc.). - General use vinyl is thicker than metallic vinyl and is relatively forgiving. This vinyl you can pull back up somewhat and reinstall in order to get out creases or bubbles without deforming the vinyl and trashing your stripe. Repositioning can be done without transfer tape, which helps to hold the shape of the stripe when pulling up.
Metallic vinyl - (Tungsten, Vista Blue, etc) - Metallic vinyls are what most metallic striping packages are made of and they are very thin and will deform easy. When applying metallic vinyls it is best to use some backing or transfer tape if you need to pull the stripe up a bit to remove air bubbles
Flat or matte vinyl - (i.e. flat black, etc.) - This vinyl in my opinion is the easiest to apply, mainly because it is still thick but is softer than the plain gloss vinyl. It pulls up and repositions easy without backing tape.
BACKING TAPE
I have dealt with two different types of backing tape, clear plastic and masking tape. I prefer the clear because it is rigid and seems to work best with metallic vinyl. The masking tape works best when applying wet but you can not see exactly where you are placing the stripes like you can with the clear.
WET VS DRY PLACEMENT
Wet placement is the easiest if you are going to apply the stripes individually. With wet placement you use a spray bottle with water and a teaspoon or so of Dawn dish soap as your lubricating agent. When you place wet you need to have your placement location marked with a grease pencil so you know when it is correct. This means that you must measure and mark which can be time consuming. I for one don't like to measure. For most stripes, including metallic fender stripes dry can be done. If you want to do wet you can. In this case it is best to get the vinyl without backing tape and apply each stripe individually.
NO-NOS
Don't attempt to apply fender stripes to a car that is hot due to being out in the sun. The stripe will stick and you will not be able to reposition it or work out imperfections.
Do not attempt to apply in windy conditions, which will blow grit under the stripes or make handling the stripes difficult.
Do make sure you clean the location well including the inside of the fender.
More to come later. Next I will post a how to of a dry application with Vista Blue metallic.
MrFarmdog out!!!
#2 OFFLINE
Posted 12 June 2009 - 07:01 AM
These pics are an install of Vista Blue Metallic fender stripes. Metallic stripes are the hardest to apply so if you can do this you can do any of them! I am using a clear backing tape so I can see the positioning of the stripe and also because I can pull the metallic stripe back to work out air bubbles without deforming the stripe.
First, make sure the fender is clean on all areas where the stripe will be applied.

Make sure you do the underside of the fender where the stripe will roll under and inside the hood opening.


Next make sure you are certain of your stripe placement before you apply. This stripe has arrows to help align the stripe on the fender at the correct angle. To apply this stripe correctly you center the stripes on the rubber hood bumper on the fender and align the arrows on the fender edge by the hood. This will give you the correct angle and placement.

Start applying your fender stripe at the top of the fender. Pull the backing tape off the stripe as you apply it. This will prevent the stripe touching and sticking to the fender as you are trying to work with it. Lay the stripe across the top of the fender and using your thumb, rub back and forth as you set the stripe into position on the fender. Sometimes it helps if you have some liquid lubricant on your thumb to help it slide across the tape. You can lick your thumb or use a spray bottle with a little dawn dish soap to wet the top of the transfer tape if needed. Make sure you do not introduce air bubbles under the stripe as you apply. If you do gently pull the stripe back up to the point where the air bubble are and then reapply.



Apply it all the way to the fender line. When working over corners make sure the stripe lays flat across the entire corner of the fender.

Continue to apply the stripe down the side of the fender rubbing the stripe back and forth with your thumb. Make sure the transfer tape lays flat just like the stripes underneath as this helps with the spacing of the stripes.

Work all the way down to the wheel well fender line making sure that there are no air bubbles and that the transfer tape does not have any wrinkles.
#3 OFFLINE
Posted 12 June 2009 - 07:02 AM

Remove the remaining backing tape.

Cut the backing tape so the two stripes are separated.


Using the same method as described above continue to apply the stripes individually.


Now at the top of the fender cut the transfer tape so you can finish applying the top of the stripes.

Cut both sides of the backing tape next to the stripe so the stripes can be applied individually on each side of the rubber hood bumper.

Fold over and apply the top of the stripes to the top of the fender inside the engine compartment. You will have to work the rear stripe behind the rubber bumper by moving the bumper with your hand and applying it.

#4 OFFLINE
Posted 12 June 2009 - 07:06 AM

Starting at the top remove the backing tape from the stripe being careful not to pull the stripe up.


Start both sides (since they were cut) and eventually you will be pulling the entire backing tape as one piece.



Slowly remove all the backing tape.

Pulling the tape directly back on itself will help from introducing air bubbles.


#5 OFFLINE
Posted 12 June 2009 - 07:07 AM





The final result... STRIPES INSTALLED!!!

In some cases you may have a few air bubbles like this. Do not worry about them. The sun will bake them out and the stripe will lay flat. It is better to let the sun do the work than ruin your stripes trying to make it perfect right away. These normally go away within a day.

Now clean the car.

Installation complete.

#6 OFFLINE
Posted 12 June 2009 - 03:39 PM
#7 OFFLINE
Posted 12 June 2009 - 03:56 PM
Ken
2008 Ford F-350 Super Duty King Ranch
2005 Ford F-150 SXT
WHIPPLE - MANLEY - COMP - KOOKS - GRIGGS RACING - SNOW - WELDCRAFT - TOYO

Click to Join: California Mustang Club
#8 OFFLINE
Posted 12 June 2009 - 05:31 PM
Griggs GR40SS with Watts link (Thanks Van/Dactyl)
Polished Ford Racing TVS supercharger
Innovators West 10% OD Billet lower balancer, 2.6" upper
VMP Polished Throttle Body and Tune
JLT Carbon Fiber CAI
Project 321 Coil Covers
Revan Racing/ C&R Heat Exchanger and Radiator, Reisch 170 TS
Borla Touring Axleback Exhaust
DSS driveshaft
2010 Shiftknob conversion
Carroll Shelby CS66 wheels
Carroll Shelby Signature Blk/Red Floor and Trunk mats
Carroll Shelby Signed VIN plaque, etc.
New clutch/flywheel/tranny 4/09
Modifying your GT500....pricey.
Getting a letter from your shop thanking you for putting their kids through college..."priceless"
Other Current Fords:
2000 Cobra R #160/300
2001 F-350 4x4 Crew Cab - Tow vehicle and family hauler
#9 OFFLINE
Posted 14 June 2009 - 04:23 PM
#10 OFFLINE
Posted 19 July 2009 - 01:30 PM
I'll probably order some more (Red in particular) to swap later. Happy with these for the time being. Thanks Mr Farmdog!
19Jul09__26_1.JPG 157.15K
153 downloads
#11 OFFLINE
Posted 19 July 2009 - 02:16 PM
AFChief, on Jul 19 2009, 04:30 PM, said:
I'll probably order some more (Red in particular) to swap later. Happy with these for the time being. Thanks Mr Farmdog!
#12 OFFLINE
Posted 19 July 2009 - 04:48 PM
#13 OFFLINE
Posted 19 July 2009 - 05:45 PM
OCD, on Jul 19 2009, 07:48 PM, said:
Edited by llcwhit, 19 July 2009 - 05:46 PM.
#14 OFFLINE
Posted 19 July 2009 - 06:05 PM
llcwhit, on Jul 19 2009, 06:45 PM, said:
Yes, they do look pretty cool!! And thanks for the history on them!!
Hmmm!!
#15 OFFLINE
Posted 19 July 2009 - 06:17 PM
I winged it when I installed mine.


2007 GRABBER ORANGE GT500 Coupe ordered 10/13/06. Sub to plant 12/14/06. Scheduled 1/16/07. Bucked 1/17/07. Released From Plant 1/19/07. Plant Quality Hold 1/19/07. Off Plant Quality Hold 2/21/07. Shipped 2/22/07. Delivered 3/8/07. New 2008 2nd Gen. Tranny & Nickle Hub Clutch & Flywheel & Lube & CSC bearing 1/16/2008. New 2009 2nd Gen. Flywheel & another new Nickel Hub Clutch & Pilot Bearing 8/8/08. New 2010 Clutch and flywheel and slave cylinder & pilot bearing and clutch line 8/2/12

#16 OFFLINE
Posted 20 July 2009 - 12:49 PM
How do we order these and what colors are available and what is the cost?
Thanks,
Mike
Alloy Clear coat Metallic W/Silver Stripes, Charcoal w/Red Interior, HID Headlamps, DVD Nav System, Premium Trim Package, Ambient Lighting, Full Car Cover, #1753 of 6513 coupes and #78 of 314 in Alloy Metallic.
Ordered 7/20/07, Receipt Date: 7/23/2007, DORA 7/23/07, VOC 7/25/07, Serialize Date 8/24/2007, Segment Date 8/24/2007, VIN # Received 8/25/07, Sequence Date: 9/13/2007, Blend Date: 9/14/2007, Produced Date: 9/24/07, Gate Release Date: 9/24/07 Ship Date: 10/19/07 Arrival Date: 10/26/07 Sold Date: 11/03/07
Engine Builders: Laurie Bowen and Mark Schuman
Mod's
Whipple 2.9, 72 Lb injectors, L&M 66mm TB, Tr 6 plugs, JLT CAI, Diablo MAFia, Jon Lund 93 tune. Mcleod RXT Clutch. MGW 6 Speed Short Throw Shifter.
Steeda Hood Lift Kit, MGW Billet Parts including the 6 Speed F@$%*@G Fast Shift Knob! Lethal's LED's, MRT Sequential Turn Signals, CDC Shorty Antenna, CDC Dead Pedal, KR axlebacks, Shelby/C&R Radiator and Heat Exchanger, Reische 170 dgr Thermostat, Shelby/C&R Extreme Duty Coolant Tanks, FR3SVT Handling Pack Suspension, BMR Panhard Bar & Upper Panhard Rod Support. JLT Oil Separators.
Nitto NT05R 315/45/18



#17 OFFLINE
Posted 20 July 2009 - 01:05 PM
Edited by IASHELBYGT, 20 July 2009 - 01:05 PM.

Performance White 5-speed SGT w/light graphite leather.
Interior upgrade w/satin aluminum panel, active anti-theft & wheel locking kit.
DORA 12/5/06
VIN # 3/7/07
Ford Build Date 4/3/07
Arrived At Shelby 4/13/07
Mods Completed 7/24/07
Completed and Shipped 7/30/07
Delivered 8/6/07
Mods: Shelby & Other: VMP Tune, CS6 Hood, Baer Shelby Extreme Front Brakes, EradiSpeed Plus-Two Rear Brakes, 20" Shelby Alcoa Wheels w/Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires - 255 35ZR 20 on all 4 corners, Driving Lamp and Brake Duct Kit w/Lower Grill Insert, Center Gauge Cluster w/Shelby Gauges, SGT Interior Upgrade - Dove w/Snow White Inserts, FRPP 4:10 Gears, Tokico D-Spec Adjustable Struts & Shocks, Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates, Sequential Tail Lights, Clear Front Bumper Lights and Side Markers w/Stealth Bulbs, Body Color Mirror Covers, 35% Window Tint, Steeda Carbon Fiber CAI Elbow, Billet Lower Control Arms and Under Drive Pullies, MAC/MMS Mufflers, Shelby Aesthetic Engine Kit with Billet Fluid Caps, Shelby Billet Hood Pins, & other exterior & interior billet highlights, Silver Pit Stripes, Berg SGT Faux Gas Cap, Clear Auto Bra, and CS Signed Sun Visor.
#18 OFFLINE
Posted 20 July 2009 - 01:14 PM
llcwhit, on Jul 19 2009, 08:45 PM, said:
But they do come in very handy when you are trying to pick your car out in a crowd
Whether it is on the track...
IMG_0463.jpg 81.58K
97 downloadsOr at a car show...
DSC00024.JPG 587.35K
112 downloadsMakes it lots easier to find your particular car...
Drive Safe!
07SGT0547
#19 OFFLINE
#20 OFFLINE
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users













