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5.4L 4V Spark Plug Change Step-By-Step Instructions


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#1 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:21 PM

Always willing to help a fellow Mustanger, I'm sharing my spark plug change pics and knowledge from my own preparation for my new Evolution Performance's Stage 2 kit. I haven't found a specific thread like this so here it is:

First, the new spark plugs must be "gapped." They do not come gapped for your engine. That means each engine and even a specific setup of that engine has a required gap usually measured in thousanths of an inch between it's spark plug's electrodes.

The stock gap is .044" (from what I measured). The required gap for a Stage 2 setup is anywhere between (from what i've read here) .032"-.040". I set mine at .035". To measure gap accurately, you need a feeler gauge which has metal strips of varying thicknesses. I have a valve tappet (the metal strips are angled) feeler gauge shown here:

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Move together the metal strips that will give you the correct measure. Ex: For .035," I slid the .020" and .015" "feelers" together. Move the side electrode closer or away from the center one for the proper gap:



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Next, remove the air intake box (don't forget to unplug the sensors and PCV connection) and tube from the throttle body. Then remove the gray coil pack covers- the stock ones say "Powered By SVT:"


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Each cover has two fasteners. 3 fasteners use a Torx T-30 bit:


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Depending on your engine, the fastener closest to the passenger with the wire loom on it (just pull the wire loom up and away from the cover) either uses a 10mm deep socket or has what looks like a torx bit on the end:


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Mine has the torx-style fastener as show above. Use a 4mm socket on it:


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Lift off the coil pack cover. It is sealed by a reusable rubber gasket. This is what's under it- coil packs and their wiring:


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Unplug the coil pack and pull it out. This is what it looks like:


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Now you can see the spark plug in its cavity:


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Remove the spark plugs. You'll need a 5/8" spark plug socket (its deep and has a rubber gasket in it to hold the plug within), a long and medium extension put together for most of the easy to reach ones and just the long extension (near the brake booster) or two long extensions (near the battery) for the harder to reach areas.

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#2 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:22 PM

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Next, you'll need anti-seize compound for the plug threads because they are a harder metal and the heads they are being threaded into are aluminum:


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Waiting for new spark plug:


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Torque the new plugs snugly or 10-15 ft-lbs (NGK recommended 14ft-lbs for these TR6s):


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I stored my original plugs numbered in the NGK boxes just in case:


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Install all plugs, press on the coil packs to each plug and attach connector, install coil pack covers and then the air intake system (don't forget the PCV connector or sensors and also gather all your tools you left on the engine or radiator cover!)

Last step, enjoy!! I hope I was able to help.


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Edited by Secondo, 16 September 2009 - 06:29 PM.


#3 OFFLINE   Hisssss

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:38 PM

Secondo; great write up, thanks for the effort! I say STICKY!!!
2007 Alloy Metallic, stripe delete, LoJack
Silver Horse Racing mirrors, sequential tail lights, billet interior trim pieces
SPP center pod, Speed of Sound pillar pod w/Raptor
Super Snake hood
Upper & lower scoops
Ford Blue cam covers
Steeda-Tri-Ax with GrabberPony ball, springs, CAI, 2.6" pulley.
20" Razors with 10.5 in the rear / Toyo 255/35/20s-305/30/20s
Stillen drilled & slotted rotors
JBA LT & 3" exhaust
BMR K-member
FRPP 3.73's
JLT Brake Duct kit / SPP inlet rings
Posted Image

As of June 15 08---543.6 rwhp / 600rwtq
Body Count......so far.
Posted Image
Posted Image
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Smashing almost anything on the street....... Priceless.

More than happy to provide advice to folks that dont need it...or want it.

#4 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:40 PM

:peelout: If anyone has any positive suggestions or comments, feel free to post! :happy feet:

Edited by Secondo, 16 September 2009 - 06:42 PM.


#5 OFFLINE   Grabber

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:48 PM

Great thread Sean.

The only suggestion that I could add would be to use some electrical tape and tape the socket to the extensions just incase it were to come apart in the deep spark plug cavity. They are a bear to fish out from what I am told. SCGT500 gave me this tip.
GRABBER Posted ImagePosted Image
Posted Image 2007 GRABBER ORANGE GT500 Coupe ordered 10/13/06. Sub to plant 12/14/06. Scheduled 1/16/07. Bucked 1/17/07. Released From Plant 1/19/07. Plant Quality Hold 1/19/07. Off Plant Quality Hold 2/21/07. Shipped 2/22/07. Delivered 3/8/07. New 2008 2nd Gen. Tranny & Nickle Hub Clutch & Flywheel & Lube & CSC bearing 1/16/2008. New 2009 2nd Gen. Flywheel & another new Nickel Hub Clutch & Pilot Bearing 8/8/08. New 2010 Clutch and flywheel and slave cylinder & pilot bearing and clutch line 8/2/12
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#6 OFFLINE   ChrisSD

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:52 PM

Bang.

http://www.amazon.co...-...5860&sr=1-1

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#7 OFFLINE   shelby001

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:53 PM

Great stuff THANKS Secondo

#8 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 06:53 PM

Great thread Sean.

The only suggestion that I could add would be to use some electrical tape and tape the socket to the extensions just incase it were to come apart in the deep spark plug cavity. They are a bear to fish out from what I am told. SCGT500 gave me this tip.

Thanks Rob,

Oh yes, don't let anything get stuck in the spark plug cavity. My tools were tight but I would tape them as Grabber mentioned above. Good tip SCGT500!

Also, don't be like me and leave your engine dirty during this procedure. Clean it before you start so you don't have to worry about any dirt or worse, small pebbles falling down into the cavity when you remove the coil pack covers!

Edited by Secondo, 16 September 2009 - 06:58 PM.


#9 OFFLINE   Slabo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 07:11 PM

Great write up Secondo!

The shop manual mentions to use some compressed air and blow out the plug well. This would be after pulling off the coil packs but before pulling the plugs. Not sure how much stuff gets under the cover but hey best to keep things out of the engine.
Proud member of Team 40th - 07XL0381

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Reborn 9/14/09 at SAI Vegas - 40th Anniv. package w/ Interior Upgrade, 605HP TVS, 3.73's, Shelby Shifter, Cooling Package and Extreme Brakes.
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#10 OFFLINE   ChrisSD

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 07:12 PM

When I posted my link there were 7 available from Amazon.com with Prime eligible shipping. All 7 of those are gone and now it's another seller. Damn guys!

#11 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 07:38 PM

When I posted my link there were 7 available from Amazon.com with Prime eligible shipping. All 7 of those are gone and now it's another seller. Damn guys!

:hysterical2:

#12 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 07:39 PM

Great write up Secondo!

The shop manual mentions to use some compressed air and blow out the plug well. This would be after pulling off the coil packs but before pulling the plugs. Not sure how much stuff gets under the cover but hey best to keep things out of the engine.

Thanks for the info Slabo! I like this tip.

#13 OFFLINE   6-Speed

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 07:43 PM

Nice write-up on the plugs.

Suggest attaching a 10" length of 3/16" ID vacuum hose to the electrode to help with initial threading. You can't cross-thread the plugs this way.

#14 OFFLINE   Slabo

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Posted 16 September 2009 - 07:50 PM

When I posted my link there were 7 available from Amazon.com with Prime eligible shipping. All 7 of those are gone and now it's another seller. Damn guys!


I got one. Free 2 day air. Got to love that 1 button prime ordering. :shades:
Proud member of Team 40th - 07XL0381

2007 GT500 Vert purchased 8/12/08, #828 of 859 Ebony, Nav, Sirius, assembled on 6/11/07
Reborn 9/14/09 at SAI Vegas - 40th Anniv. package w/ Interior Upgrade, 605HP TVS, 3.73's, Shelby Shifter, Cooling Package and Extreme Brakes.
Many additional mods.

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#15 OFFLINE   GT500_ROCKS

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 03:11 AM

Great write up Sean, I would suggest a little Dilectric silicone in the spark plug boot :)

Always!

Great Pics...! oh and...
http://www.spx.usato...e/OTC-6899.html

same price with ship as amazon :)

Edited by GT500_ROCKS, 17 September 2009 - 03:14 AM.

Pete

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Crystal red with light platinum interior and recaro seats ;)

#16 OFFLINE   SicShelby

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 04:39 AM

Secondo; great write up, thanks for the effort! I say STICKY!!!


+1 sticky! :yup:

:peelout: If anyone has any positive suggestions or comments, feel free to post! :happy feet:


Mmmm.... :idea:

You forgot the:

Posted Image
Will be revived...

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#17 ONLINE   MY500SS

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 04:54 AM

Thanks Secondo and all my Shelby brothers. This is great stuff.
Honored to have participated in the 2012 Shelby Run Europe.
2500 miles, 10 days, 8 countries.


Proud member of Team 40th - 07XL0273

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2007 GT50040th CSM 07XL0273.
1965 Mustang Coupe K Code.
1964 289 FIA Cobra CSX 7076.
1963 L76 Corvette.

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#18 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 08:13 AM

+1 sticky! :yup:



Mmmm.... :idea:

You forgot the:

Posted Image

+1! Final step: enjoy with your favorite beverage!! :happy feet:
:beerchug: :party:

Thanks Secondo and all my Shelby brothers. This is great stuff.

Shelby brothers!! :happy feet: :grouphug:

#19 OFFLINE   SexyStang

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 08:22 AM

Thanks Secondo and all my Shelby brothers. This is great stuff.


Can I be the "Little Sis"..... :happy feet:
It was time to let go of my 2004 Mustang we shared a good ride but the time has finally come to choose an even greater ride with my new 2011 Mustang GT 5.0!!!

420 hp Sweeeeeeeeeeet - Let's get ready to rumble!!!



1/4 Mile 13.12 @ Best 109.76 MPH Bone Stock!!

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#20 OFFLINE   GT500_ROCKS

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 09:08 AM

Can I be the "Little Sis"..... :happy feet:

u can be StangSis :shift:
Pete

2008 Shelby GT500
540Hp currently with FR 40Hp kit ala Kr
White with Blue stripes, loaded

2009 CTS-V
556Hp stock (its not.. over 600hp now)
Crystal red with light platinum interior and recaro seats ;)

#21 OFFLINE   Ricardo

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 09:34 AM

How long does it usually take to change spark plugs?

Also, Is it important to do it on a cold engine (just curious)?

Edited by Ricardo, 17 September 2009 - 09:42 AM.


#22 OFFLINE   GT500_ROCKS

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 10:02 AM

How long does it usually take to change spark plugs?

Also, Is it important to do it on a cold engine (just curious)?

hr to hr.5
I would change them on a cold engine, ever hold a hot spark plug, lol
Pete

2008 Shelby GT500
540Hp currently with FR 40Hp kit ala Kr
White with Blue stripes, loaded

2009 CTS-V
556Hp stock (its not.. over 600hp now)
Crystal red with light platinum interior and recaro seats ;)

#23 OFFLINE   overtime

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 10:58 AM

hr to hr.5
I would change them on a cold engine, ever hold a hot spark plug, lol


ONLY ONCE :doh:
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#24 ONLINE   MY500SS

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 11:46 AM

Can I be the "Little Sis"..... :happy feet:


You can be anything your heart desires sweetie.
Honored to have participated in the 2012 Shelby Run Europe.
2500 miles, 10 days, 8 countries.


Proud member of Team 40th - 07XL0273

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2007 GT50040th CSM 07XL0273.
1965 Mustang Coupe K Code.
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#25 OFFLINE   SexyStang

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 12:12 PM

u can be StangSis :shift:



:rockon:
It was time to let go of my 2004 Mustang we shared a good ride but the time has finally come to choose an even greater ride with my new 2011 Mustang GT 5.0!!!

420 hp Sweeeeeeeeeeet - Let's get ready to rumble!!!



1/4 Mile 13.12 @ Best 109.76 MPH Bone Stock!!

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#26 OFFLINE   Hans

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 01:47 PM

Why is it important to change the plug when doing the stage two? :headscratch: Also when should you change out the orginal plugs? I got almost 20 thousand miles on my car will be doing the stage two with VMP and C&R Shelby dual fan heat exchanger alony with the Ford raceing damper. Hope to see around 540 to555 RWH with this mod.

07 GT500 Shelby acquired Nov 21 2006 

Exterior mods
Carbon fiber front splitter
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Mis Decals on car
Third break LED chrome stop light
Chrome rear tail light bezel trim
Satellite shark fin cover
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Alcoa Shelby 20/10 rims with Shelby Cobra center caps
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#27 OFFLINE   Burning Blue Star IV

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 01:50 PM

Thanks for great guide. Appreciate it.
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#28 OFFLINE   GT500_ROCKS

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 02:44 PM

Why is it important to change the plug when doing the stage two? :headscratch: Also when should you change out the orginal plugs? I got almost 20 thousand miles on my car will be doing the stage two with VMP and C&R Shelby dual fan heat exchanger alony with the Ford raceing damper. Hope to see around 540 to555 RWH with this mod.

colder range plugs help to keep detonation at bay....adding boost pressure and intake heat can cause detonation.
Pete

2008 Shelby GT500
540Hp currently with FR 40Hp kit ala Kr
White with Blue stripes, loaded

2009 CTS-V
556Hp stock (its not.. over 600hp now)
Crystal red with light platinum interior and recaro seats ;)

#29 OFFLINE   Hisssss

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 05:09 PM

will be doing the stage two with VMP and C&R Shelby dual fan heat exchanger along with the Ford raceing damper. Hope to see around 540 to555 RWH with this mod.


I bet you will see closer to 600 with the above listed mods...keep us posted!
2007 Alloy Metallic, stripe delete, LoJack
Silver Horse Racing mirrors, sequential tail lights, billet interior trim pieces
SPP center pod, Speed of Sound pillar pod w/Raptor
Super Snake hood
Upper & lower scoops
Ford Blue cam covers
Steeda-Tri-Ax with GrabberPony ball, springs, CAI, 2.6" pulley.
20" Razors with 10.5 in the rear / Toyo 255/35/20s-305/30/20s
Stillen drilled & slotted rotors
JBA LT & 3" exhaust
BMR K-member
FRPP 3.73's
JLT Brake Duct kit / SPP inlet rings
Posted Image

As of June 15 08---543.6 rwhp / 600rwtq
Body Count......so far.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

Posted Image

Smashing almost anything on the street....... Priceless.

More than happy to provide advice to folks that dont need it...or want it.

#30 OFFLINE   BlackVert

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 06:13 PM

Great post, Secondo...

Your setup is looking good!
2007 Shelby GT500 convertible, black with stripe delete and red seat inserts

Evolution Performance "1100 hp" Whipple 3.4L (Gen 2) kit, CRUSHER!, with 3.625 inch pulley, 72 lb injectors, C&L intake, 160 mm monoblade TB, Kenne Bell dual Boost-a-Pump, EGR delete, Diablosport MAFia, etc... makes 21 lbs of peak boost
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Some of my other toys: 2012 Nissan GT-R (super silver, my daily driver) , 2008 Dodge Challenger SRT-8 (#1316, orange) , 2009 Dodge Challenger SRT-8 (custom Plum Crazy convertible, Mr. Norm's Kenne Bell supercharged!) , 1970 Dodge Charger 500 (burnt orange/black, 383 mag, father is original owner)




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