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5.4L 4V Spark Plug Change Step-By-Step Instructions


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#31 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 06:22 PM

Great post, Secondo...

Your setup is looking good!

:happy feet: Special thanks to BlackVert for selling his Stage 2 to me!! :happy feet:

#32 OFFLINE   Justin00Stang

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 06:37 PM

I get terrible plug life from my NGK TR6s, about 3000 miles, and then the car will misfire under heavy load like 4th gear at the track. I make more power than most GT500s, but not that much more.

One of the FRPP engineers I know that works on the CJ is using one step colder platinum motorcraft plugs in the new and old CJ, AGSF-12FM1 plugs gapped at 0.035", I'm going to try those next.

If you are only upping the boost to 12-13psi with an upper pulley, IMO, i would not bother to change the plugs. Spark blowout is not an issue, and the DOHC chamber does not need a really cold plug. The FRPP TVS kit raises boost to 13psi and they don't require changing plugs.
Justin Starkey Justin@VMPTuning.com VMP Tuning- GT500 Specialists

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Highest HP with 2.3L TVS816RWHP/779RWTQ


Mods: VMP 2.3L TVS Supercharger, VMP Dyno-Tune, VMP 2.5" Upper, VMP 72MM TB & Elbow, 123MM MAF, IW 10% OD balancer, 80s, Dynatech 1 7/8" LTs, Comp Stage 2 cams.

New VMP 2.3L TVS Supercharger $3,499

07-12 GT500 Custom Tuning starting at $199


2011 Mustang GT 5.0L with Roushcharger 9.79@140, wife's car
2006 Mustang 4.0L with Vortech @ 15psi & 6spd, wife's car
2006 Jeep GC SRT8 6.1L AWD, wife's truck
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#33 OFFLINE   Hans

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 06:53 PM

Thanks guys for your advise, I had read that some were changing their plugs and other were not. So for me I'm going to see how she runs on the stock plugs. Check my tune with VMP in Feb when we meet in Ovedo for the horse power on the farm meet.

07 GT500 Shelby acquired Nov 21 2006 

Exterior mods
Carbon fiber front splitter
Bi-exnon 6,000 Diamond white running and head lights
Mis Decals on car
Third break LED chrome stop light
Chrome rear tail light bezel trim
Satellite shark fin cover
9 inch antenna
MGW Cobra polished billet license anti-theft Cobra frame
Alcoa Shelby 20/10 rims with Shelby Cobra center caps
Steeda lock nuts
Nitto Invo  4   295/30/20
Cobra air caps all four  
Roush rear window covers
Trunk LED light super bright
Web electronics sequential rear tail lights harness
LED license plate light
True forge Heat extractors billet hood vents
Carbon fiber KR Rocker panels by true fiber
Bangastang California side scoops 
3M clear Bar Hood and roof and Front
Shelby Billet fuel door
Exterior mods cont.
Cobra rear break covers
Billet fender badges
Mustang Brake Duct Bezels
Carbon Fiber mirror covers Shelby
Engine mods
Morso billet brake Fluid cover
Shelby batteries hold down brackets
Ford racing damper
Revan racing over size C&R radiator and Shelby inter cooler dual high speed fan with matching anodized reservoirs coolant and power steering
VMP 2.4 TVS CNC port matched high flow inlet elbow, 2.6 pulley and 90mm idler pulley, colder plugs and thermostat with SCT tuner & two tunes, one 100 octane tune
Bangastang custom radiator cover to match car
Classic Hood strut lifts kit with Champion replacement 90 LB strut
Shock tower caps
C&L cold air tube and filter
JLT oil separator
Engine mods cont.
Shelby Drake Cobra billet engine cap set complete
Fuse box Chrome cover with old style Shelby cobra emblem
LED under hood engine Bay lights
Interior mods
Shelby Headrests
Areoforce CNF interceptor dual gauges and speed of sound gauge pillars
Mustang billet radio knob
GT500KR trunk liner
Trunk release in glove box
Chrome door lock knobs and pins 
Billet cup holder trim
 LED Map light with Shelby Billet trims
Carbon fiber trims inside cabin accents
SVT LED door sills
LED foot well lights
Cobra stainless dead foot pedal rest
Shelby signature floor mats and trunk
MGW Billet deluxe power outlet Cobra
Pad for knee driver side
Organizer glove box
Custom Shelby trimmed Console cover by Gary Disney extra padded Cobra
Window tint all around with mole skins in front to protect film
 Carol Shelby signed dash plate
Ford racing short throw shifter
Grabber pony custom shift Handel and ball
Steeda Billet speaker cover
Four dual cone high performance speakers
Damplifier Prosound Interior insulation
Suspension Mods
Koni yellow strut and shocks
DBA Slotted rotes all four corners
Hawk yellow brake pads
Front Brake cooling hose kit with Billet inlets JLT
Steeda stainless braided break lines all four 
Steeda Billet lower control arms
Steeda heavy duty upper control arm adjustable
Steeda blue lower springs all four corners
BMR adjustable panhard brace
BMR drive shaft safety loop
One piece aluminum Drive shaft
KR axel back muffler set
 


#34 OFFLINE   theshadow1234

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 04:30 AM

If some of you guys who want to install a 2.6 pulley on your stock eaton, PM and I can give you a link. Joe G has great tutorial with pictures. Unfortunately I cannot post here because teamshelby.com does not allow external links.

Thanks

#35 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 05:43 AM

If some of you guys who want to install a 2.6 pulley on your stock eaton, PM and I can give you a link. Joe G has great tutorial with pictures. Unfortunately I cannot post here because teamshelby.com does not allow external links.

Thanks

We should have a tutorial here on Team Shelby by a Team Shelby member, which I think we do. I'll look for it.

#36 OFFLINE   Dennis70Mach

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 02:08 PM

Great write up!! I am going to be changing the plugs on my son's car before we take it to the track. We have the TVS, but I am going to be putting the stock plugs back in. A few questions. What are the stock plugs and I am assuming that you can simply get them through Ford? What is the gap on the stock plugs? What is the torque specs for installing the new plugs? Appreciate the info!

#37 OFFLINE   theshadow1234

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 05:16 PM

We should have a tutorial here on Team Shelby by a Team Shelby member, which I think we do. I'll look for it.



The only one i've seen is Grabbers post with the new VMP puller tool and stock (look)pulley. Which is very helpful btw. What i was hoping to find was an successful install with the metco 2.6 pulley and aux idler with pics but i haven't yet (with the exception of the outside link).

Im sure someone will find something.

Thanks

#38 OFFLINE   nx338

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:04 PM

FYI, NGK TR6 is the same heat range as the stock GT 500 plug.

Here is the link to NGK's online application guide:

http://www.ngksparkp...lt.asp?mode=nml

as Justin stated dropping the heat range is not that critical for most GT 500s.
2007 Shelby GT 500

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#39 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:50 PM

FYI, NGK TR6 is the same heat range as the stock GT 500 plug.

Here is the link to NGK's online application guide:

http://www.ngksparkp...lt.asp?mode=nml

as Justin stated dropping the heat range is not that critical for most GT 500s.

Directly from Evolution Performance site:

"NGK TR6 Spark Plugs Replace your stock plugs with these NGK TR-6 Plugs, their one step colder than stock. Must be used with Shelby GT500's running more than stock boost. "

Edited by Secondo, 18 September 2009 - 06:51 PM.


#40 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:53 PM

The only one i've seen is Grabbers post with the new VMP puller tool and stock (look)pulley. Which is very helpful btw. What i was hoping to find was an successful install with the metco 2.6 pulley and aux idler with pics but i haven't yet (with the exception of the outside link).

Im sure someone will find something.

Thanks

I have the 2.6 Metco pulley and aux idler, I can take some pics for you if you'd like.

#41 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:59 PM

I get terrible plug life from my NGK TR6s, about 3000 miles, and then the car will misfire under heavy load like 4th gear at the track. I make more power than most GT500s, but not that much more.

One of the FRPP engineers I know that works on the CJ is using one step colder platinum motorcraft plugs in the new and old CJ, AGSF-12FM1 plugs gapped at 0.035", I'm going to try those next.

If you are only upping the boost to 12-13psi with an upper pulley, IMO, i would not bother to change the plugs. Spark blowout is not an issue, and the DOHC chamber does not need a really cold plug. The FRPP TVS kit raises boost to 13psi and they don't require changing plugs.

Changing the plugs to one step colder for the increased overall HP (around 130 net) from a Stage 2 is cheap insurance. And they're only 2 bucks each! And if you only get 3000 miles from them, what do you expect? They're only 2 bucks each! :hysterical2:

#42 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 07:44 PM

Great write up!! I am going to be changing the plugs on my son's car before we take it to the track. We have the TVS, but I am going to be putting the stock plugs back in. A few questions. What are the stock plugs and I am assuming that you can simply get them through Ford? What is the gap on the stock plugs? What is the torque specs for installing the new plugs? Appreciate the info!

Motorcraft part# SP-405 for the kit of 8, Yes, .044, 10-15ft-lbs.

#43 OFFLINE   Grabber

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 03:50 PM

This is a great thread that got lost.

It took me a bit to find it for a friend.

Just made it a sticky.

Edited by Grabber, 15 April 2011 - 03:50 PM.

GRABBER Posted ImagePosted Image
Posted Image 2007 GRABBER ORANGE GT500 Coupe ordered 10/13/06. Sub to plant 12/14/06. Scheduled 1/16/07. Bucked 1/17/07. Released From Plant 1/19/07. Plant Quality Hold 1/19/07. Off Plant Quality Hold 2/21/07. Shipped 2/22/07. Delivered 3/8/07. New 2008 2nd Gen. Tranny & Nickle Hub Clutch & Flywheel & Lube & CSC bearing 1/16/2008. New 2009 2nd Gen. Flywheel & another new Nickel Hub Clutch & Pilot Bearing 8/8/08. New 2010 Clutch and flywheel and slave cylinder & pilot bearing and clutch line 8/2/12
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

#44 OFFLINE   Hans

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Posted 15 April 2011 - 04:52 PM

Funny that this appeared today as my car got new plugs installed and a fuel filter this moring. I went with the NGK TR6 at .32 My car now has 25,000 miles and is five years old. We were trying to find out my my inter cooler was burping coolant. so we also had it on the dyno trying to make it hot, well it would not burp any coolant. I was going to install a new pump. but instead I lowers the fluid inn the tank and installed a new cap. It made 547 RWHP and 520 Torque :happy feet: So I now have a new inter cooler pump for sale.

07 GT500 Shelby acquired Nov 21 2006 

Exterior mods
Carbon fiber front splitter
Bi-exnon 6,000 Diamond white running and head lights
Mis Decals on car
Third break LED chrome stop light
Chrome rear tail light bezel trim
Satellite shark fin cover
9 inch antenna
MGW Cobra polished billet license anti-theft Cobra frame
Alcoa Shelby 20/10 rims with Shelby Cobra center caps
Steeda lock nuts
Nitto Invo  4   295/30/20
Cobra air caps all four  
Roush rear window covers
Trunk LED light super bright
Web electronics sequential rear tail lights harness
LED license plate light
True forge Heat extractors billet hood vents
Carbon fiber KR Rocker panels by true fiber
Bangastang California side scoops 
3M clear Bar Hood and roof and Front
Shelby Billet fuel door
Exterior mods cont.
Cobra rear break covers
Billet fender badges
Mustang Brake Duct Bezels
Carbon Fiber mirror covers Shelby
Engine mods
Morso billet brake Fluid cover
Shelby batteries hold down brackets
Ford racing damper
Revan racing over size C&R radiator and Shelby inter cooler dual high speed fan with matching anodized reservoirs coolant and power steering
VMP 2.4 TVS CNC port matched high flow inlet elbow, 2.6 pulley and 90mm idler pulley, colder plugs and thermostat with SCT tuner & two tunes, one 100 octane tune
Bangastang custom radiator cover to match car
Classic Hood strut lifts kit with Champion replacement 90 LB strut
Shock tower caps
C&L cold air tube and filter
JLT oil separator
Engine mods cont.
Shelby Drake Cobra billet engine cap set complete
Fuse box Chrome cover with old style Shelby cobra emblem
LED under hood engine Bay lights
Interior mods
Shelby Headrests
Areoforce CNF interceptor dual gauges and speed of sound gauge pillars
Mustang billet radio knob
GT500KR trunk liner
Trunk release in glove box
Chrome door lock knobs and pins 
Billet cup holder trim
 LED Map light with Shelby Billet trims
Carbon fiber trims inside cabin accents
SVT LED door sills
LED foot well lights
Cobra stainless dead foot pedal rest
Shelby signature floor mats and trunk
MGW Billet deluxe power outlet Cobra
Pad for knee driver side
Organizer glove box
Custom Shelby trimmed Console cover by Gary Disney extra padded Cobra
Window tint all around with mole skins in front to protect film
 Carol Shelby signed dash plate
Ford racing short throw shifter
Grabber pony custom shift Handel and ball
Steeda Billet speaker cover
Four dual cone high performance speakers
Damplifier Prosound Interior insulation
Suspension Mods
Koni yellow strut and shocks
DBA Slotted rotes all four corners
Hawk yellow brake pads
Front Brake cooling hose kit with Billet inlets JLT
Steeda stainless braided break lines all four 
Steeda Billet lower control arms
Steeda heavy duty upper control arm adjustable
Steeda blue lower springs all four corners
BMR adjustable panhard brace
BMR drive shaft safety loop
One piece aluminum Drive shaft
KR axel back muffler set
 


#45 OFFLINE   Tob

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 02:19 AM

Hans, can you post up some shots of your old pump? I just purchased a Lightning pump, which I'm told is the same one.

When I get home I'll get the closeups I took of the new pump. They clearly show the Bosch part #, the connector, etc. I think I paid $95 at Buyfordracing.

Tob

#46 OFFLINE   Hans

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 05:41 AM

Hans, can you post up some shots of your old pump? I just purchased a Lightning pump, which I'm told is the same one.

When I get home I'll get the closeups I took of the new pump. They clearly show the Bosch part #, the connector, etc. I think I paid $95 at Buyfordracing.

Tob

Yes they are the same pump, I pd $88.00 but had shipping costs of $13.00. I have that new pump for sale now.

07 GT500 Shelby acquired Nov 21 2006 

Exterior mods
Carbon fiber front splitter
Bi-exnon 6,000 Diamond white running and head lights
Mis Decals on car
Third break LED chrome stop light
Chrome rear tail light bezel trim
Satellite shark fin cover
9 inch antenna
MGW Cobra polished billet license anti-theft Cobra frame
Alcoa Shelby 20/10 rims with Shelby Cobra center caps
Steeda lock nuts
Nitto Invo  4   295/30/20
Cobra air caps all four  
Roush rear window covers
Trunk LED light super bright
Web electronics sequential rear tail lights harness
LED license plate light
True forge Heat extractors billet hood vents
Carbon fiber KR Rocker panels by true fiber
Bangastang California side scoops 
3M clear Bar Hood and roof and Front
Shelby Billet fuel door
Exterior mods cont.
Cobra rear break covers
Billet fender badges
Mustang Brake Duct Bezels
Carbon Fiber mirror covers Shelby
Engine mods
Morso billet brake Fluid cover
Shelby batteries hold down brackets
Ford racing damper
Revan racing over size C&R radiator and Shelby inter cooler dual high speed fan with matching anodized reservoirs coolant and power steering
VMP 2.4 TVS CNC port matched high flow inlet elbow, 2.6 pulley and 90mm idler pulley, colder plugs and thermostat with SCT tuner & two tunes, one 100 octane tune
Bangastang custom radiator cover to match car
Classic Hood strut lifts kit with Champion replacement 90 LB strut
Shock tower caps
C&L cold air tube and filter
JLT oil separator
Engine mods cont.
Shelby Drake Cobra billet engine cap set complete
Fuse box Chrome cover with old style Shelby cobra emblem
LED under hood engine Bay lights
Interior mods
Shelby Headrests
Areoforce CNF interceptor dual gauges and speed of sound gauge pillars
Mustang billet radio knob
GT500KR trunk liner
Trunk release in glove box
Chrome door lock knobs and pins 
Billet cup holder trim
 LED Map light with Shelby Billet trims
Carbon fiber trims inside cabin accents
SVT LED door sills
LED foot well lights
Cobra stainless dead foot pedal rest
Shelby signature floor mats and trunk
MGW Billet deluxe power outlet Cobra
Pad for knee driver side
Organizer glove box
Custom Shelby trimmed Console cover by Gary Disney extra padded Cobra
Window tint all around with mole skins in front to protect film
 Carol Shelby signed dash plate
Ford racing short throw shifter
Grabber pony custom shift Handel and ball
Steeda Billet speaker cover
Four dual cone high performance speakers
Damplifier Prosound Interior insulation
Suspension Mods
Koni yellow strut and shocks
DBA Slotted rotes all four corners
Hawk yellow brake pads
Front Brake cooling hose kit with Billet inlets JLT
Steeda stainless braided break lines all four 
Steeda Billet lower control arms
Steeda heavy duty upper control arm adjustable
Steeda blue lower springs all four corners
BMR adjustable panhard brace
BMR drive shaft safety loop
One piece aluminum Drive shaft
KR axel back muffler set
 


#47 OFFLINE   kstrong

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Posted 21 April 2011 - 11:43 AM

Holy Hijack. :hysterical:
Great write up Secondo. Thanks Grabber for making it a sticky.
I always use antiseize compound on plugs. Imagine how tough it will be to remove platimum tipped plugs that have 80-100,00 miles on them? :banghead:

My 2007 Ford Shelby Mustang GT500.


Posted Image Posted Image
Posted ImagePosted Image

#48 OFFLINE   kent1

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Posted 19 May 2011 - 08:48 PM

Thanks for the write up. I used this info to install new plugs. Much appreciated.

#49 OFFLINE   judgeman6970

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Posted 06 March 2012 - 03:51 PM

great write-up.....curious(dumb question?), do our cars('07-'09 GT500's) have the infamous 2-piece sparkplug??
2011 GT500 SVTP red/white.... 2009 GT500 grabber orange #57 of 68....and other "non-fords"

#50 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 07 March 2012 - 10:00 AM

great write-up.....curious(dumb question?), do our cars('07-'09 GT500's) have the infamous 2-piece sparkplug??

No, they are one piece sparkplugs, see pics on page 1.

#51 OFFLINE   gearhead09

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 07:22 AM

I know im bumping an old thread, just curious what peoples thoughts are. I bought my gt500 with 9960 miles on it, and its been a couple years and im now at 19600. I also have pulley,tune,cai, h/e, and 170 degree t-stat. Do you think its time for a spark plug change? Also I do notice an initial sluggish feeling when I hit the gas maybe a milli second. Would that be because of the spark plugs? Either that or I am getting some minor heatsoak... lol its hard for me to tell the difference. I might change them out anyways, can never be too careful.


Edit: figured my own answer out gonna change them out. Every so often the car has a slight issue starting also didn't really think much of it. I am also pretty ignorant when it comes to cars... no one to learn off of so trying to teach myself. Thanks for all the help.

Edited by gearhead09, 15 September 2012 - 07:28 AM.


#52 OFFLINE   Grabber

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 07:46 AM

When I installed the smaller Pulley on my stock Super charger, I changed the plugs to the NKG TR6 plugs. Justin over at VMP told me that I should change those plugs every 5 - 10K miles to keep the car running great.
GRABBER Posted ImagePosted Image
Posted Image 2007 GRABBER ORANGE GT500 Coupe ordered 10/13/06. Sub to plant 12/14/06. Scheduled 1/16/07. Bucked 1/17/07. Released From Plant 1/19/07. Plant Quality Hold 1/19/07. Off Plant Quality Hold 2/21/07. Shipped 2/22/07. Delivered 3/8/07. New 2008 2nd Gen. Tranny & Nickle Hub Clutch & Flywheel & Lube & CSC bearing 1/16/2008. New 2009 2nd Gen. Flywheel & another new Nickel Hub Clutch & Pilot Bearing 8/8/08. New 2010 Clutch and flywheel and slave cylinder & pilot bearing and clutch line 8/2/12
Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

#53 OFFLINE   Secondo

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 06:39 PM

+1. With the smaller pulley and "Stage 2" setup like we have, Kent at Evolution Performance recommends changing them every year. Gap the NGK's at .032."

#54 OFFLINE   gearhead09

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Posted 25 October 2012 - 06:09 PM

If I would of payed attention to the beginning of this thread about dropping the spark plug socket into the chamber and not able to get it out it would of saved me a lot of back ache and at least an hour or so... I really recommend attaching the socket to the extension with tape, it will save you so much trouble. Put the NGK TR6's in with there .035 gap that was already on them. So should i have gapped them to .032? I checked the gapping and I moved a couple down a little to reach .035 but for the most part they were spot on.

Edited by gearhead09, 26 October 2012 - 10:35 AM.


#55 OFFLINE   barspen

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 11:38 AM

Secondo, Great write up! THX!

Changed my plugs after 32K miles and it went flawlessly. Replaced the OEM plugs with NGK Iridium IX (HR7).

I used a little Liquid Wrench in the spark plug cavity before I loosened up the old plugs. I also used Dielectric Silicon paste on the ends of the coils. Took me about 90 minutes moving pretty slowly.

Also, thanks to Grabber for suggesting the electrical tape to connect spark plug socket to the torque extension bar. I used a TEKTON long spark plug socket wrench I found on Amazon - It worked great: http://www.amazon.co...1?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Barry S.
Phoenix, AZ

2011 Kona Blue GT500
FRPP lowering springs, resonator delete, JTL oil separator, C&R heat exchanger, Hurst straight shift lever, J&M Extreme LCA, BMR adjustable panhard bar, FRPP rear sway bar endlinks, Stallion Suspension adjustable front endlinks, Koni STR.T shocks & struts, black billet fuel door, MRT hood struts, Cmax brake pads, Continental ExtremeContact tires

#56 OFFLINE   ViperNC

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Posted 01 June 2013 - 12:20 PM

Here's a stupid question: Why do people use the NGK plug instead of something else like a Ford Racing plug? Or Bosch... I thought NGK was mainly for tuner cars. So I guess my overall thought/question is: What is the best spark plug for a Shelby?

 

 

1c%20(Large).jpg 

2009 Shelby GT500 - Notable Upgrades:

  • True Forged Chicane Wheels w/ Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires: 275/30/20 Front and 285/30/20 Rear
  • Shelby/Wilwood Front and Rear Racing Brakes
  • Shelby GT500 Brake Duct Bezels/Front Brake Duct Kit
  • Ford Racing Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers
  • Shelby Oil Separator
  • Shelby GT500 Engine Coil Covers
  • Metco 2.6 pulley/idler w/JLT Cold Air Kit and SCT Tune
  • Shelby Extreme Duty Heat Exchanger
  • PST Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
  • Ford Racing Low Profile Differential Cover 
  • Flowmaster Exhaust
  • Shelby Racing Front and Rear Sway Bars
  • Shelby Bumpsteer Tie Rod Adjuster
  • Shelby Sway Bar End Links
  • Shelby A Arms
  • Shelby K-Member, Radiator Support, Chassis Support, A Arm Support Brace 
  • Shelby Billet Aluminum Watts Link
  • Metco Billet Aluminum Rear Lower Control Arms
  • Ford Racing Springs
  • Shelby Six Speed Shifter Lever w/ Shelby GT500 Shift Knob
  • Shelby GT500 Engine Billet Aluminum Cap Set
  • Shelby Billet Aluminum Racing Pedal and Dead Pedal Covers
  • Carbon fiber upgrades: Front Splitter, Rocker Panels, Rear Mud Guards, Rear Diffuser, Side View Mirror Inserts, Hood Vents, Door Sills, Speaker Rings, Center Console, Mirror Switch Covers, Door Lock Bezels 

 

 


#57 OFFLINE   Secondo

Secondo

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 06:27 AM

The NGK's were recommended when increasing boost by Evolution Performance for their Stage 2 kits and are included in them. You can just get the Motorcraft plugs one step colder as equivalent.

Edited by Secondo, 05 June 2013 - 06:29 AM.


#58 OFFLINE   Rickv09shelby

Rickv09shelby

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 05:37 PM

Has anyone had a problem with the electrodes on their spark plugs burning up?  I have a 2009 GT500 bone stock except for Pype Bomb muffler deletes.  A few thousand miles after I put them on the car started to cut out and hesitate.  Took it to my local Ford dealer and they spent 20 days trying to figure out what was wrong and fix it.  They replaced the fuel pump as they and Ford said it was bad which they also said caused the engine to run lean and burn the plugs which they also replaced.  Now I am 4k miles past that and the car is hesitating again.  Looked at two of the plugs and the electrodes seem to be burning again.   Any thoughts?  Could it be that the muffler delete is causing it to burn just a little to lean and makes it need a tune?  Scratching my head at this point.






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