Jump to content


5.4L 4V Spark Plug Change Step-By-Step Instructions

  • Please log in to reply
61 replies to this topic

#61 OFFLINE   barspen


    Team Shelby New Member

  • Mountain Region
  • 173 posts
  • Joined 12-May 11
  • Region:Mountain

Posted 29 July 2014 - 06:07 AM

When you mention the 'right valve cover', I'm assuming you referring to the passenger side?  These?




Just pull them strait up and off the bolts. Might need to pry them a bit the first time.  Believe the bolts requires a 10mm deep socket.


Phoenix, AZ

2011 Kona Blue GT500
VMP tune, JTL 127mm CF CAI, Reische 170* T-stat, JTL oil separator, C&R heat exchanger, SA trans cooling scoop, Hurst shift lever, KR\billet shifter bushings, FRPP springs, J&M Extreme LCA, BMR panhard bar, BMR spherical-end UCA, FRPP rear endlinks, Stallion Suspension front endlinks, Koni STR.T shocks & struts, J&M Caster\Camber plates, FRPP brake cooling, black billet fuel door, MRT hood struts, Hawk HPS brake pads, Continental ExtremeContact tires

#62 OFFLINE   Wingrider


    Team Shelby New Member

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 428 posts
  • Joined 07-June 10
  • Region:Decline
  • Interests:Track days, coaching.

Posted 29 July 2014 - 08:07 PM

That did the trick barspen and I was able to get my plugs swapped out after prying those off with a rag on the valve cover and using needle nose players gently under the black caps.  then just rotate them around the loom out of the way.   


I used all of the tips provided in this sticky including taping the socket to the extension.  Time to complete- about 45-60 minutes, but I also swapped the baffle delete and could do this faster next time by not chasing the Torx down in the under tray.


I'll add a couple things for what they are worth.


1.) Disconnect your battery.  Van from Revan suggested this as the socket making contact down in there can possibly damage some electronics.  I'm sorry I can't recall what those are but I'll ask him and edit this soon.


2.)  Use a long extension as your "first" extension to tape to the socket.  My stock Craftsman extension is about 8 inches- at least enough to just pop put of the valve cover about an inch.  This prevents the pathway to the plug from being wobbly and makes hand threading the plugs a lot easier with 1 less point of failure or place to tape.


3.) On my 2011 the battery makes access to the far back right side plug with an extension a pain to get to.  You may need to unbolt the battery hold down (7mm?) so you can scoot the battery over about 2 inches.  That's all you need to easily get the extension in/ out once you have another inch / inch an a half of spark plug hanging off the end of the socket.


4.)  If your engine is cold, think about stuffing an old sheet down along the side of the valve cover(s).  This will catch any potential rogue sockets/extensionsbolts that try to run away as you're changing the socket or direction of the ratchet.  If you let sockets/plugs/nuts escape there is a strong chance they will fall down into the lower engine air under tray- potentially forcing you to get under the car and pull it off to retrieve rogue pieces.  I was very fortunate that my Torx socket and 1/4" extension only took a few taps to dance out the back of the under tray to the driveway.


I appreciate this sticky and it helped me make sure I could do this.  While some may roll their eyes on my additional feedback- somebody may benefit as I did reading this sticky.

Edited by Wingrider, 29 July 2014 - 08:17 PM.

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users