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5.4L 4V Spark Plug Change Step-By-Step Instructions


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#61 OFFLINE   barspen

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 06:07 AM

When you mention the 'right valve cover', I'm assuming you referring to the passenger side?  These?

 

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Just pull them strait up and off the bolts. Might need to pry them a bit the first time.  Believe the bolts requires a 10mm deep socket.

 


Barry

Phoenix, AZ

2011 Kona Blue GT500

VMP tune, JTL 127mm CAI, 170* T-stat, JTL oil separator, C&R heat exchanger, FRPP side pipes, trans cooling scoop, FRPP springs, J&M Extreme LCA, BMR panhard bar, BMR spherical-end UCA, Eibach Sway Bars, Stallion Suspension endlinks, Koni Sport shocks & struts, J&M CC plates, FRPP brake cooling, Hawk HPS 5.0 pads, StopTech drilled rotors, Conti tires

Track Setup - Carbotech XP-10 pads with stock rotors, Nitto NT01 (275/40/18) on TSW Nurburgring wheels

 

20141019_183819373_iOS_zps2f90368d.jpg

 

 

 


#62 OFFLINE   Wingrider

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Posted 29 July 2014 - 08:07 PM

That did the trick barspen and I was able to get my plugs swapped out after prying those off with a rag on the valve cover and using needle nose players gently under the black caps.  then just rotate them around the loom out of the way.   

 

I used all of the tips provided in this sticky including taping the socket to the extension.  Time to complete- about 45-60 minutes, but I also swapped the baffle delete and could do this faster next time by not chasing the Torx down in the under tray.

 

I'll add a couple things for what they are worth.

 

1.) Disconnect your battery.  Van from Revan suggested this as the socket making contact down in there can possibly damage some electronics.  I'm sorry I can't recall what those are but I'll ask him and edit this soon.

 

2.)  Use a long extension as your "first" extension to tape to the socket.  My stock Craftsman extension is about 8 inches- at least enough to just pop put of the valve cover about an inch.  This prevents the pathway to the plug from being wobbly and makes hand threading the plugs a lot easier with 1 less point of failure or place to tape.

 

3.) On my 2011 the battery makes access to the far back right side plug with an extension a pain to get to.  You may need to unbolt the battery hold down (7mm?) so you can scoot the battery over about 2 inches.  That's all you need to easily get the extension in/ out once you have another inch / inch an a half of spark plug hanging off the end of the socket.

 

4.)  If your engine is cold, think about stuffing an old sheet down along the side of the valve cover(s).  This will catch any potential rogue sockets/extensionsbolts that try to run away as you're changing the socket or direction of the ratchet.  If you let sockets/plugs/nuts escape there is a strong chance they will fall down into the lower engine air under tray- potentially forcing you to get under the car and pull it off to retrieve rogue pieces.  I was very fortunate that my Torx socket and 1/4" extension only took a few taps to dance out the back of the under tray to the driveway.

 

I appreciate this sticky and it helped me make sure I could do this.  While some may roll their eyes on my additional feedback- somebody may benefit as I did reading this sticky.


Edited by Wingrider, 29 July 2014 - 08:17 PM.


#63 OFFLINE   rsfdiver

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Posted 28 December 2015 - 11:36 AM

OTC 6899 Spark Plug Socket 5/8" for GM, Chrysler, Ford vehicles not available...?
Where am I going,
and why am I in this hand basket?





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#64 OFFLINE   rsfdiver

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 12:34 PM

Just put in the NGK TR6 IX 3689. My car sat up for awhile (over a year with start ups every month or so) due to a fender bender with a drunk retired police officer and now it is finally back on the road. Changed the plugs and the air cleaner.

Gapped the plugs to .034" or a snug 035". Took it for a test run and it ran great. I have +35000 miles on her, a JLT Stage 2 (intake, 2.6" pulley, and Dyno tune at Stang Hi Performance). With 49 deg F. OAT ran like a raped ape and showed just over 15psi boost (higher than I've seen it before. The old air cleaner was black (Black Mold?) So I don't know if it was the plugs, Air filter Outside Air Temperature or the combination of all 3, but she is running better than ever. Easily over the 550rwhp and 540ft/lbs torque my last dyno tune showed done at 70F OAT 13psi boost.

My only consern is that the anti seize from the last plug change was hard to gather/blow out of the spark plug holes. It gunked up when I removed the old NGK TR6's and I am pretty sure I was able to blow some of what didn't stick to the plug out before the old plug was completely removed but a minute amount may have escaped me on occasion and went into the cylinder....

Didn't seem to hurt it though.

Bought a 5/8" magnetic spark plug socket from Auto Zone and that did the trick for plug removal.

Anyway, thanks for the write up Secondo.


Edited by rsfdiver, 02 January 2016 - 12:37 PM.

Where am I going,
and why am I in this hand basket?





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#65 OFFLINE   bmobilekr

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Posted 03 August 2016 - 06:40 PM

GREAT step by step....it was so easy thanks to your help.Attached File  384738_301759793175447_677547649_n (1).jpg   55.7KB   0 downloads



#66 OFFLINE   Robert M

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Posted 04 August 2016 - 04:42 AM

I found that an extra long 6-point spark plug socket (with the rubber spark plug retainer inside), seems to work best. At first I used a "normal" short socket with an extension and found that when attempting to remove the socket, the extension was pulling out of the socket (sometimes), leaving the socket down in the hole, and then trying to grab the socket with a pair of needle nose pliers? I even tried the "black tape on the socket and extension" method........forget all of that nonsense!!

 

The long socket comes all the way to the top of the DOHC spark plug hole so even if it is not sliding out easily upon removal, it can be grabbed and pulled out much more easily than fighting with a short socket down in a deep hole.

 

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When re-assembling the coil cover(s), the main concern is to get the rubber seal at the rear, (where the wire harness goes under to feed the coils) properly seated/sealed in the coil cover. <<If this is not properly sealed, water (rain or other) will follow the path down that wire harness and make its way under the coil cover and down into the spark plug hole, especially the rear holes. <<This will cause the aluminum to oxidize and really get to be a mess in this area under the coil cover(s).

 

 

 

R


Edited by Robert M, 04 August 2016 - 05:40 AM.





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