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What good are 500 HP?


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#1 OFFLINE   ddtlaw

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 06:54 AM

What good are 500 HP if you can't keep them on the asphalt? I finally experienced the much talked about wheel hop the other day. I pulled into traffic and the guy I pulled in front of decided he didn't like that so he sped up and I had to tromp on it to keep him off my bumper and guess what, hoppity hoppity instead of get up and go.

So what is the best way to solve the problem? I've searched the threads and some have gone to higher gear sets and others have upgraded the suspension. If I have to choose one method which is the best?

#2 OFFLINE   mastersmech1

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 07:01 AM

What good are 500 HP if you can't keep them on the asphalt? I finally experienced the much talked about wheel hop the other day. I pulled into traffic and the guy I pulled in front of decided he didn't like that so he sped up and I had to tromp on it to keep him off my bumper and guess what, hoppity hoppity instead of get up and go.

So what is the best way to solve the problem? I've searched the threads and some have gone to higher gear sets and others have upgraded the suspension. If I have to choose one method which is the best?

I'm putting on the Evolution suspension this week. I'll keep you posted.

#3 OFFLINE   tomc37

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 07:05 AM

What good are 500 HP if you can't keep them on the asphalt? I finally experienced the much talked about wheel hop the other day. I pulled into traffic and the guy I pulled in front of decided he didn't like that so he sped up and I had to tromp on it to keep him off my bumper and guess what, hoppity hoppity instead of get up and go.

So what is the best way to solve the problem? I've searched the threads and some have gone to higher gear sets and others have upgraded the suspension. If I have to choose one method which is the best?



Check these sites out. I am sure they will help you. In my opinion go with suspension upgrades. Lower control arms, springs and shocks and a watts link. These will all help put the power to the ground. Lower your car 1.0" in the front and 1.25 in the back and it will help with wheel hop. The guys at Ground control put there shocks and springs on a shock dyno and match them perfect. Tha watts link centers the rear end and you will have a shure footed rear end especially going over wash board roads...

http://www.ground-co...hp/II=666/CA=96

http://www.fays2.net...s_link_11_.html

I hope this helps. They did for me

Check these sites out. I am sure they will help you. In my opinion go with suspension upgrades. Lower control arms, springs and shocks and a watts link. These will all help put the power to the ground. Lower your car 1.0" in the front and 1.25 in the back and it will help with wheel hop. The guys at Ground control put there shocks and springs on a shock dyno and match them perfect. Tha watts link centers the rear end and you will have a shure footed rear end especially going over wash board roads...

http://www.ground-co...hp/II=666/CA=96

http://www.fays2.net...s_link_11_.html

I hope this helps. They did for me



FYI THE PARNELLI JONES MUSTANG THAT IS COMMING OUT FROM SALEEN WILL HAVE A WATTS LINK ON IT!

#4 OFFLINE   TwinTurboBoss

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 07:13 AM

Check these sites out. I am sure they will help you. In my opinion go with suspension upgrades. Lower control arms, springs and shocks and a watts link. These will all help put the power to the ground. Lower your car 1.0" in the front and 1.25 in the back and it will help with wheel hop. The guys at Ground control put there shocks and springs on a shock dyno and match them perfect. Tha watts link centers the rear end and you will have a shure footed rear end especially going over wash board roads...

http://www.ground-co...hp/II=666/CA=96

http://www.fays2.net...s_link_11_.html

I hope this helps. They did for me
FYI THE PARNELLI JONES MUSTANG THAT IS COMMING OUT FROM SALEEN WILL HAVE A WATTS LINK ON IT!



Thats funny, the guy calls a boss 302 a Boss 351

#5 OFFLINE   ColdwaterHotrod

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 09:21 AM

What good are 500 HP if you can't keep them on the asphalt? I finally experienced the much talked about wheel hop the other day. I pulled into traffic and the guy I pulled in front of decided he didn't like that so he sped up and I had to tromp on it to keep him off my bumper and guess what, hoppity hoppity instead of get up and go.

So what is the best way to solve the problem? I've searched the threads and some have gone to higher gear sets and others have upgraded the suspension. If I have to choose one method which is the best?

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#6 OFFLINE   cknight

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 11:06 AM

When was your car built?

Was this something they were going to try to fix on the job #2 cars that went into projuction in early December?

#7 OFFLINE   tomc37

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 01:09 PM

How would lowering the car help wheel hop? I believe it is all in the control arms.

Yes I agree with the lower control arms. The one thing I noticed is that when my car was lowered 1 inch in the front and 1.25 inches in the back I did not have wheel hop. So I am refering to my own experience and I am sure stiffer bushings in the lower control arms would help also

#8 OFFLINE   VNMOUS1

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 01:45 PM

How would lowering the car help wheel hop? I believe it is all in the control arms.



It depends on the severity of the shake and specific conditions. Actually the only way to adjust ride height is different springs...and whether they end up being stiffer or softer, they won't be exactly the same. Under the right conditions that COULD quell some of the hop, but it won't cure it. BTW, some cars were significantly worse than others. Same materials, but differences in installation (yet all within tolerance) makes the difference.


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#9 OFFLINE   TD30

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 01:48 PM

WELL STATED. BTW 3.73:1 RATIO FOR THE SIG.

TD
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#10 OFFLINE   VNMOUS1

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 01:51 PM

WELL STATED. BTW 3.73:1 RATIO FOR THE SIG.

TD


Lyxdeksia. :doh:

Thanks.



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#11 OFFLINE   TD30

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 01:55 PM

ANYTIME.
89 RED GT ( TRACK PREP TIME HAS BEGUN - ON THE BOTTLE FOR NOW TIL SHE BLOWS! )
96 RED COBRA (SUPERCHARGED) GONE! (RELUCTANTLY)
04 TORCHFIRE RED METALLIC TERMIE ( RELEASED INTO THE WILD, DIDN'T WANT TO )
07 GT500 COUPE ALLOY W/ SATIN SILVER

461.6 RWHP, 456 RWTQ - STOCK
20" ANTHRACITE RAZORS W/ PILOT SPORT PS/2 FRONT (255) & REAR (285)
STRIPES PAINTED TO MATCH WHEELS AND KR STYLE HOOD BY TERRY AT PROGLASS ( SEE AVATAR)
EVOLUTION ULTIMATE SUSPENSION KIT, FRPP 3.73'S, STEEDA TRI-AX W/ PISTOL GRIP SHIFTER
LUND RACING CUSTOM TUNE, 2.6 PULLEY, JLT CAI, FRPP AXLEBACKS ( NEED TO HIT THE DYNO )
LAST DYNO RUN 545 RWHP/ 544 RWTQ ( BEFORE CUSTOM TUNE )

MUCH MORE ON THE HORIZON

#12 OFFLINE   requis

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 03:07 PM

http://www.ground-co...hp/II=666/CA=96

http://www.fays2.net...s_link_11_.html

I hope this helps. They did for me
FYI THE PARNELLI JONES MUSTANG THAT IS COMMING OUT FROM SALEEN WILL HAVE A WATTS LINK ON IT!




I don't believe the Fays product would help much with Wheel hop, I'm trying to find the email from them, their product is more toward performance driving and the twisites. Im sure a combination of all of the suggestions however would only help with the issue.

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#13 OFFLINE   owenkelley

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 03:51 PM

Thats funny, the guy calls a boss 302 a Boss 351


He actually had Boss 351 in quotation marks because he knows it isn't really a Boss 351, it's actually not a Boss 302 either. The car belongs to a friend of mine, he road races it when he gets the chance. he calls it a Boss 351 because it has a built Boss 351 engine in it. He has an original Boss 302 also, but he decided he didn't want to abuse it on the race track anymore, that's why he built the " Boss 351". It was featured in Mustang Monthly a year or so ago.
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#14 OFFLINE   TwinTurboBoss

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 04:52 PM

He actually had Boss 351 in quotation marks because he knows it isn't really a Boss 351, it's actually not a Boss 302 either. The car belongs to a friend of mine, he road races it when he gets the chance. he calls it a Boss 351 because it has a built Boss 351 engine in it. He has an original Boss 302 also, but he decided he didn't want to abuse it on the race track anymore, that's why he built the " Boss 351". It was featured in Mustang Monthly a year or so ago.


owen,

my mistake. I stand corrected

your friend works for an insurance Company?

#15 OFFLINE   Alloy Dave

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 07:51 PM

How would lowering the car help wheel hop? I believe it is all in the control arms.

+1...lowering won't help by itself. What's unclear to me is whether the UCA or LCAs are the real fix. Most people say it's a combination of the two. Furthermore, people say it's not so much the arm, but more the bushings. I don't know if you can change just the bushings (I doubt it).

I'm going to try JUST the UCA first, but I'm confused about which one (some are adjustable, some are not) I need. I don't plan on lowering, so I don't think I'll be changing pinion angle. Then, if that doesn't fix it, I'll install billet LCAs. It's just that everything is so darn expensive (I've seen around $250 a pair for the lowers - billet, or $180 for the upper...adjustable). :drop:

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#16 OFFLINE   BADBOY500

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 08:07 PM

How would lowering the car help wheel hop? I believe it is all in the control arms.

In the control arms you will find young one the wheel hop that you seak
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#17 OFFLINE   1badsho

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 08:14 PM

When was your car built?

Was this something they were going to try to fix on the job #2 cars that went into projuction in early December?



i dont jump on my car alot ... nor do have i done a burn out at any relative high rpms ... but i havent expierenced the dreaded wheel hop yet.

My car was built in Nov and according to Fred those production dates and later had different bushings than the first cars built in early summer.

With that said, knowing suspension as I do, if this car has wheel hop that bad I dont think a upgraded bushing is the cure all. I just dont think I have dumped the clutch out enough to expierence it yet.

I know that i do need more traction with my few mods and IF... IF i go to a pulley ... most definitly. Right now first gear is pretty useless .... if u get on it

dond

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#18 OFFLINE   BADBOY500

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 08:16 PM

What good are 500 HP if you can't keep them on the asphalt? I finally experienced the much talked about wheel hop the other day. I pulled into traffic and the guy I pulled in front of decided he didn't like that so he sped up and I had to tromp on it to keep him off my bumper and guess what, hoppity hoppity instead of get up and go.

So what is the best way to solve the problem? I've searched the threads and some have gone to higher gear sets and others have upgraded the suspension. If I have to choose one method which is the best?

EVO U/ S / KIT ...............BY BY WHEEL HOP I just did my in stall and she runs flat/smooth/strate AND NO WHEEL HOP just need some stickys to hock-up :happy feet:
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#19 OFFLINE   06ragtopGT

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 08:19 PM

Dond
Whats your opinion on the 3.73's?
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#20 OFFLINE   1badsho

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Posted 16 January 2007 - 09:29 PM

Dond
Whats your opinion on the 3.73's?


Combined with the tune ... killer.

I will say this. My EVO Stage I tune is killer ... huge difference and very happy with Fred. Secondly .. when the gears where installed ... a definite difference but not huge.

Combine the two .. YIPPPIE.

For me .... the 410s are too tall and too high in the RPM range . I do plan to take some long road trips in the car and dont think 410s are ideal. I think the 373s are perfect choice for ME !

dond

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SOLD BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
07 RED SHELBY W/WHITE STRIPES VIN # 1ZVHT88S175275241:RELEASED FROM PLANT 11/14/06 : RAILCAR NUMBER 11/30/2006 : ETA DELIVERY DATE TO MY STORE OF 12/08/2006

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- VMP Stage II TUNE
TUNE 1 PERFORMANCE
TUNE 2 HWY/ECONOMY

- 448hp stock at the rear wheels
- 553hp Stage II at the rear wheels
- KR mufflers and H pipe
- 410 gears
- Steeda LCA

CURRENT OTHER RIDES:

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1990 Taurus SHO rebuilt from the ground up by yours truly

 

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PAST RIDES:

2007 Shelby GT500
1989 TRACK PREPPED SHO
1991 SUPER CHARGED SHO +

2013 Boss 302


#21 OFFLINE   owenkelley

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 10:23 AM

owen,

my mistake. I stand corrected

your friend works for an insurance Company?



Yeah, he's and adjuster for Farmers. His Boss 302 is a concourse restored car, and he still ran it at open track meets at Road America. He was always breaking something, so he started referring to his shop as 'The Broken Boss Ranch". He always wanted to build a '70 Fastback with a Boss 351 and since the values of the true Boss cars are increasing so much he figured it was probably a good idea to retire the Boss 302 from racing on build the car he really wanted to race. I've driven the "Boss 351", it's an impressive car to say the least. He had it at SAAC Does Vegas a couple years ago and ran it at the open track there, that's where he experimented with the WATS link. He was impressed with the difference it made in the handling of the car.
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#22 OFFLINE   red07shelby

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 04:16 PM

EVO U/ S / KIT ...............BY BY WHEEL HOP I just did my in stall and she runs flat/smooth/strate AND NO WHEEL HOP just need some stickys to hock-up :happy feet:



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#23 OFFLINE   carnut

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 04:34 PM

What good are 500 hp? See the new topic on Mickey Thompson's new tire :hyper: :hyper: :hyper:

Oh crap, I have been informed this is not the "sticky" tire. So I am now I Stand Corrected Boy

Edited by carnut, 17 January 2007 - 04:42 PM.


#24 OFFLINE   LuckySnake

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Posted 17 January 2007 - 11:22 PM

i dont jump on my car alot ... nor do have i done a burn out at any relative high rpms ... but i havent expierenced the dreaded wheel hop yet.

My car was built in Nov and according to Fred those production dates and later had different bushings than the first cars built in early summer.

With that said, knowing suspension as I do, if this car has wheel hop that bad I dont think a upgraded bushing is the cure all. I just dont think I have dumped the clutch out enough to expierence it yet.

I know that i do need more traction with my few mods and IF... IF i go to a pulley ... most definitly. Right now first gear is pretty useless .... if u get on it

dond


I noticed wheel hop is more pronounced on rougher road surfaces, I don't know why? Smooth road = smooth burnout/loss of traction, rougher road = missing fillings in my back teeth. I will make my mind up about what parts to replace if any, after several people agree what actually corrected the problem. This is the first post I have seen that mentioned early s/n GT500's having different bushings. I would sure like to keep her as stock as possible, and cure the wheel hop. What good is original if it doesn't work?

#25 OFFLINE   mcdover

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 05:21 AM

I see lots of posts and concerns about wheel hop, and I just haven't seen it on my car. It just spins. I'm beginning to wonder if this has something to do with the added weight of a vert. Any vert owners having the wheel hop problem or is just an issue with the coupes? Just a theory. :shift:
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#26 OFFLINE   raw power

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 06:18 AM

I see lots of posts and concerns about wheel hop, and I just haven't seen it on my car. It just spins. I'm beginning to wonder if this has something to do with the added weight of a vert. Any vert owners having the wheel hop problem or is just an issue with the coupes? Just a theory. :shift:


mcdover, I have a vert. and what has been my experience is that when the weather was warm (I live in Ohio), my wheels spun like crazy when I got on her, but as the weather cooled I did experience the wheel hop everyone is talking about. I think the vert.'s weight distribution helps reduce the wheel hop, but it's still there depending on weather and road conditions, IMO.
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#27 OFFLINE   iceman

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 06:42 AM

mcdover, I have a vert. and what has been my experience is that when the weather was warm (I live in Ohio), my wheels spun like crazy when I got on her, but as the weather cooled I did experience the wheel hop everyone is talking about. I think the vert.'s weight distribution helps reduce the wheel hop, but it's still there depending on weather and road conditions, IMO.



I am in IN and have seen very little but would agree with this....I noticed it more when I am turning and on the gas from a start. I've not noticed it as much if I really hammer it as it still just spins but I have not has as much trouble as some seem to and I too have a vert.
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#28 OFFLINE   raw power

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 06:51 AM

I am in IN and have seen very little but would agree with this....I noticed it more when I am turning and on the gas from a start. I've not noticed it as much if I really hammer it as it still just spins but I have not has as much trouble as some seem to and I too have a vert.

Iceman, which side of Indy are you on? If you're anywhere close to Dayton, we have several car shows that myself and another forum member, red coupe, go to and enjoy. You should think about joining us this coming year.
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#29 OFFLINE   iceman

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 10:34 AM

Iceman, which side of Indy are you on? If you're anywhere close to Dayton, we have several car shows that myself and another forum member, red coupe, go to and enjoy. You should think about joining us this coming year.



I would love to - I'm on the NE side of Indy but that would be a fun trip. Feel free to PM me with any info.

Thanks.
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#30 OFFLINE   CoopersShelby

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Posted 19 January 2007 - 11:52 AM

I would love to - I'm on the NE side of Indy but that would be a fun trip. Feel free to PM me with any info.

Thanks.



Iceman,

I live in IN, and would love to talk to you about who did your tune. My Ebony vert will be here next week. Let me know.




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