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#241 OFFLINE   hansenisu

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Posted 23 September 2012 - 04:48 PM

Just got a used 2012 with 7000 miles on the clock but I have a stupid question. The car is difficult to start for some reason. The manual tranny I came from just required that you push in the clutch and turn the key. When I do that with this car, I get nothing - no cranking or anything. Everything is powered up in the car when the key is turned on so it should not be a battery issue.

I follow this sequence - parking brake on, clutch pedal to the floor, turn key to on and wait until the gauges come back to zero, then try to crank. Nothing. I have to do this sequence 6 or seven times before it will crank and kick off. I can hear the fuel pump start up when I turn the key to the on position so that should not be the issue either.

Maybe a fob problem?


There was a problem with a sensor in the interlock system that was bad and was replaced under warranty - But it was an even easier fix - aftermarket security system was acting up. Disabled it and everything is good.

#242 OFFLINE   svt13

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Posted 28 September 2012 - 11:33 AM

I suspect the recommendation to put the transmission into neutral before starting is an extra safety precaution prior to starting. Perhaps the thinking is that, after the engine starts, you could inadvertently take your foot off the clutch pedal before you intended. Our GT500s will start in any gear as long as the clutch pedal is depressed.

Since I was driving clutch vehicles before the clutch/starter interlocks were common, I have always put the transmission into neutral prior to starting, just a habit.

For parking, I rarely use the emergency/parking brake unless I am parking on a noticeable incline. I always park the car with the transmission in reverse which is another habit I picked up when I started driving.


Why in reverse? If I do use the parking brake and put it in first am I going to warp my rotors like the FGT guy said?
2013 shelby gt500 black w/black stripe SVTPP,Recaros,Electronics Package,Glass roof,car cover.

Mods:
35% window tint

nav-tv rear view camera
Red line hood struts
Front splitter curb alert system
Super snake carbon fiber splitter
APR Performance carbon fiber mirror assembly
JLT CF resonator delete w/blue airaid Filter
Shelby transmission cooler scoope
BMR UCA with Mount, BMR adjustable panhard bar
Bob's billet LCA and bob's oil separator
FRPP springs
HRE p40 w/Michelin Super sport tires


Future mods going on the car soon: Shelby floor and trunk mat, custom made EPCO shifter knob


Mods undecided about:
Boss x brace, MGW shifter, Boss side exhaust, Corsa black diamond axleback, Lithium battery

#243 OFFLINE   hector02

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Posted 15 October 2012 - 05:01 PM

Hi everyone,
Im having trouble with my tires, I have about 510whp and the
Stock tires don't help. I've bought MT DR for the drag strip, but I would like
an every day tire that give me grip.
Any suggestion? I'm from Puerto Rico so cold weather won't be trouble

Thanks

#244 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 09:45 AM

Hi everyone,
Im having trouble with my tires, I have about 510whp and the
Stock tires don't help. I've bought MT DR for the drag strip, but I would like
an every day tire that give me grip.
Any suggestion? I'm from Puerto Rico so cold weather won't be trouble

Thanks


What year is your car? 18 or 19 inch tires on it?

Go to just about any "R" compound tire and you'll pick up grip...at the cost of longevity.


Phill
2010 GT500 Coupe
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover


CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~

PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.

#245 OFFLINE   hector02

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Posted 16 October 2012 - 04:21 PM

What year is your car? 18 or 19 inch tires on it?

Go to just about any "R" compound tire and you'll pick up grip...at the cost of longevity.


Phill

Hi phill,
My car is 2012 SVTPP

#246 OFFLINE   Helix

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Posted 31 October 2012 - 04:15 PM

Since it is Halloween; rise from the dead topic!

Actually, I was just curious....does anyone have suggestions for rear window louvers for 99-04 New edge Mustangs that don't have any issues with them; that is, no odd fitting pieces, no gaps, etc...

rbbbj6.jpgzuscip.jpg

2003 Mustang
1987 Lincoln Mark VII LSC


#247 OFFLINE   Bookwyrm

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 03:53 PM

So as a newbie to owning a supercharged car, I was wondering if it's normal for there to be a clicking sound from the engine on a 2010 GT500? I can't pinpoint where exactly its coming from, but its definitely at a very regular frequency and seems to always be there when the car is idling.
The dealership says its nothing to worry about, but I've found their service department to be more than a little suspect in the past, especially on potential warranty issues.

#248 OFFLINE   CMA212

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 11:35 PM

So as a newbie to owning a supercharged car, I was wondering if it's normal for there to be a clicking sound from the engine on a 2010 GT500? I can't pinpoint where exactly its coming from, but its definitely at a very regular frequency and seems to always be there when the car is idling.
The dealership says its nothing to worry about, but I've found their service department to be more than a little suspect in the past, especially on potential warranty issues.


I have a 12' and my car does the same thing, I only have 6k miles on her. At first I thought it was a valve issue and took it to my dealer and they told me not to worry about it.

#249 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 10:51 AM

So as a newbie to owning a supercharged car, I was wondering if it's normal for there to be a clicking sound from the engine on a 2010 GT500? I can't pinpoint where exactly its coming from, but its definitely at a very regular frequency and seems to always be there when the car is idling.
The dealership says its nothing to worry about, but I've found their service department to be more than a little suspect in the past, especially on potential warranty issues.


It's most likely your injectors clicking. Very pronounced at idle, with the hood open.


Phill
2010 GT500 Coupe
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover


CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~

PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.

#250 OFFLINE   Boidster

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 12:19 PM

That noise will be completely drowned out when you stomp on the Go Pedal, so I wouldn't worry about it. The only sound from under the hood that should concern you is a rising-pitch whine as you approach redline. And when I say "concern you" I mean "cause cramps in your face from grinning".
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- You don't care about my other cars, past or present

#251 OFFLINE   Bookwyrm

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 07:50 PM

It's most likely your injectors clicking. Very pronounced at idle, with the hood open.


Phill


Thanks, Phil! That makes me feel a lot better coming from someone who I know has a clue! :D It sounded too regular to be a valve problem and not be getting a check engine light, but I wanted to be sure.

-- Les

#252 OFFLINE   Bookwyrm

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 08:54 PM

That noise will be completely drowned out when you stomp on the Go Pedal, so I wouldn't worry about it. The only sound from under the hood that should concern you is a rising-pitch whine as you approach redline. And when I say "concern you" I mean "cause cramps in your face from grinning".
:peelout:


I was just concerned because a friend of mine had a valve cover problem that made similar sounds (though not nearly as rhythimc) on a ~2001 GT.
As for the grin-inducing whine, you need to push the pedal harder if you're only hearing it approaching redline :peelout: :superhero:

#253 OFFLINE   Boidster

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 02:04 PM

That is a good point. I must push the pedal harder.
- 2012 GT500 in Performance White, stripe delete, SVTPP, nav, resonator delete, some under-hood bling
- 1967 Mustang 289 Vinyl-Top Coupe in Sauterne Gold, 50K miles, factory exterior, light performance upgrades
- You don't care about my other cars, past or present




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