252 replies to this topic

[StratGirl]

Ok, I have a stupid one.

How do I know when I need new brakes? I have about 13k on the GT, I'm finding I have to push the brakes a lot harder now when I stop, so there's definite wear on the pads. I can't really visibly see the brake pads to tell how much life they have left in them, and I wouldn't know what I was looking at if I could. If I take it to a shop, they'll see a blonde chick with a nice car, and tell me I need everything replaced. Soo... do I just wait until I hear obvious grinding? Probably not, right?  

[Torched10]

StratGirl, on 18 June 2010 - 08:55 AM, said:

Ok, I have a stupid one.

How do I know when I need new brakes? I have about 13k on the GT, I'm finding I have to push the brakes a lot harder now when I stop, so there's definite wear on the pads. I can't really visibly see the brake pads to tell how much life they have left in them, and I wouldn't know what I was looking at if I could. If I take it to a shop, they'll see a blonde chick with a nice car, and tell me I need everything replaced. Soo... do I just wait until I hear obvious grinding? Probably not, right?  

well first check to see if your brake fluid is full up.If it is, and your not stopping its probably brake pads,which if you do alot of stop and go driving wouldn't be that unusual. have a guy drive it in to a full service place--it doesnt take long to check them out.If you bring it to a brake place, theyll tell you need brakes--good luck

Edited by Torched10, 18 June 2010 - 10:47 AM.

[cbr1000]

What tire pressure is everyone running on the stock 2010 GT500 for routine use during the summer.

I assume it's different from front to rear since they are different sizes?

[sogg77]

Octane Question:The highest octane I can find in my town is 91. Our elevation is 5200ft. Will the shelby perform on 91 octane?
Steve

[SmellSoGood]

If the 2010 Mustang is not of the S197 platform, then what type is it?

[KEYSTONE]

sogg77, on 18 June 2010 - 10:28 AM, said:

Octane Question:The highest octane I can find in my town is 91. Our elevation is 5200ft. Will the shelby perform on 91 octane?
Steve

From the Shelby supplemental manual:

OCTANE RECOMMENDATIONS
Your vehicle is designed to use
“Premium” unleaded gasoline only,
with an (R+M)/2 octane rating of 91
or higher. SVT recommends using
unleaded gasoline with octane rating
of 93 or higher for optimal performance of this vehicle. Recommended
fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance and optimal
performance of this vehicle. The use of gasoline with an octane rating
lower than 91 can lead to severe mechanical damage to your vehicle,
may degrade vehicle performance, and may affect your warranty
coverage. Please see the Warranty Guide for complete information.
SVT does not recommend the use of gasoline labeled as Premium with
octane ratings of less than 91.

So, looks like you can use 91 but I'm reasonably sure the engine's computer  "de-tunes" the engine accordingly, as you need 93 octane for "optimal" performance.  My local service manager told me the car reacts to octane level and ethanol percentage of the fuel.  That could explain the "my supercharger isn't turning on yet"  complaint that some folks are complaining about even after 500+ miles of driving.

[KEYSTONE]

cbr1000, on 18 June 2010 - 10:04 AM, said:

What tire pressure is everyone running on the stock 2010 GT500 for routine use during the summer.

I assume it's different from front to rear since they are different sizes?

For street use, I'd run whatever is recommended on the spec plate on the driver's door frame

[KEYSTONE]

StratGirl, on 18 June 2010 - 08:55 AM, said:

Ok, I have a stupid one.

How do I know when I need new brakes? I have about 13k on the GT, I'm finding I have to push the brakes a lot harder now when I stop, so there's definite wear on the pads. I can't really visibly see the brake pads to tell how much life they have left in them, and I wouldn't know what I was looking at if I could. If I take it to a shop, they'll see a blonde chick with a nice car, and tell me I need everything replaced. Soo... do I just wait until I hear obvious grinding? Probably not, right?  

Increased pedal effort is not necessarily a sign of worn pads.  If the increased effort occurs during spirited driving (i.e. heavy repeated applications of the brakes) it is usually a sign of brake fade (a layer of vaporized gas/brake dust is literally coming between the pad and the rotor and is impairing brake effect).  The solution here is bigger front brakes.

If it occurs first thing in the morning, the brakes may be cold and just need a few applications to warm up.  

If it occurs all the time, it could be that the pads are contaminated with grease/oil, or that the power brake booster is defective

The structure of a disc brake pad is a metal backing plate with the friction material bonded or riveted to the backing plate.  (Riveted is better/stronger).  Disc brake pads come with a "wear indicator" that emits an audible squeal when the pads are worn to minimum acceptable thickness.

Basically, the indicator is just a small piece of spring steel about the size of a matchstick that is riveted to the pad backing plate, so that it projects about 2/32" above the backing plate of the pad.  When the pad wears down to 2/32", the "squealer" makes contact with the moving rotor and emits a high-pitched squealing sound when you apply the brakes.  I'm sure you've heard this sound coming from a car's brakes before.  That squeal serves as an audible warning of low pad thickness, while not causing any harm to the rotor.

If you progress from a squealing sound to a heavy grinding sound, that means you have worn the friction material completely off and the metal backing plate of the pad is making contact with your rotor.  That will rapidly result in irreversible rotor damage and that is $$$$$.

Now, if you get intermittent brake squeal, that could simply be dust or rust buildup.  When the pads are worn to the "squealer", the noise will be consistent/constant.  If they tell you need new brakes, march right into the shop and have the mechanic measure the thickness of the friction material while you stand there.  Don't be afraid to ask questions of the tech, they usually like to teach.....If the friction material is less than 2/32 (i.e. 1/16") then you need new pads.  If the rotors have a high ridge around the outside or are badly grooved, they will need to be turned or replaced.

Edited by KEYSTONE, 19 June 2010 - 05:30 AM.

[Torched10]

KEYSTONE, on 19 June 2010 - 05:23 AM, said:

Increased pedal effort is not necessarily a sign of worn pads.  If the increased effort occurs during spirited driving (i.e. heavy repeated applications of the brakes) it is usually a sign of brake fade (a layer of vaporized gas/brake dust is literally coming between the pad and the rotor and is impairing brake effect).  The solution here is bigger front brakes.

If it occurs first thing in the morning, the brakes may be cold and just need a few applications to warm up.  

If it occurs all the time, it could be that the pads are contaminated with grease/oil, or that the power brake booster is defective

The structure of a disc brake pad is a metal backing plate with the friction material bonded or riveted to the backing plate.  (Riveted is better/stronger).  Disc brake pads come with a "wear indicator" that emits an audible squeal when the pads are worn to minimum acceptable thickness.

Basically, the indicator is just a small piece of spring steel about the size of a matchstick that is riveted to the pad backing plate, so that it projects about 2/32" above the backing plate of the pad.  When the pad wears down to 2/32", the "squealer" makes contact with the moving rotor and emits a high-pitched squealing sound when you apply the brakes.  I'm sure you've heard this sound coming from a car's brakes before.  That squeal serves as an audible warning of low pad thickness, while not causing any harm to the rotor.

If you progress from a squealing sound to a heavy grinding sound, that means you have worn the friction material completely off and the metal backing plate of the pad is making contact with your rotor.  That will rapidly result in irreversible rotor damage and that is $$$$$.

Now, if you get intermittent brake squeal, that could simply be dust or rust buildup.  When the pads are worn to the "squealer", the noise will be consistent/constant.  If they tell you need new brakes, march right into the shop and have the mechanic measure the thickness of the friction material while you stand there.  Don't be afraid to ask questions of the tech, they usually like to teach.....If the friction material is less than 2/32 (i.e. 1/16") then you need new pads.  If the rotors have a high ridge around the outside or are badly grooved, they will need to be turned or replaced.

great answer,really

[StratGirl]

KEYSTONE, on 19 June 2010 - 05:23 AM, said:

Increased pedal effort is not necessarily a sign of worn pads.  If the increased effort occurs during spirited driving (i.e. heavy repeated applications of the brakes) it is usually a sign of brake fade (a layer of vaporized gas/brake dust is literally coming between the pad and the rotor and is impairing brake effect).  The solution here is bigger front brakes.

If it occurs first thing in the morning, the brakes may be cold and just need a few applications to warm up.  

If it occurs all the time, it could be that the pads are contaminated with grease/oil, or that the power brake booster is defective

The structure of a disc brake pad is a metal backing plate with the friction material bonded or riveted to the backing plate.  (Riveted is better/stronger).  Disc brake pads come with a "wear indicator" that emits an audible squeal when the pads are worn to minimum acceptable thickness.

Basically, the indicator is just a small piece of spring steel about the size of a matchstick that is riveted to the pad backing plate, so that it projects about 2/32" above the backing plate of the pad.  When the pad wears down to 2/32", the "squealer" makes contact with the moving rotor and emits a high-pitched squealing sound when you apply the brakes.  I'm sure you've heard this sound coming from a car's brakes before.  That squeal serves as an audible warning of low pad thickness, while not causing any harm to the rotor.

If you progress from a squealing sound to a heavy grinding sound, that means you have worn the friction material completely off and the metal backing plate of the pad is making contact with your rotor.  That will rapidly result in irreversible rotor damage and that is $$$$$.

Now, if you get intermittent brake squeal, that could simply be dust or rust buildup.  When the pads are worn to the "squealer", the noise will be consistent/constant.  If they tell you need new brakes, march right into the shop and have the mechanic measure the thickness of the friction material while you stand there.  Don't be afraid to ask questions of the tech, they usually like to teach.....If the friction material is less than 2/32 (i.e. 1/16") then you need new pads.  If the rotors have a high ridge around the outside or are badly grooved, they will need to be turned or replaced.

Awesome, thanks!

[66DNA]

KEYSTONE, on 19 June 2010 - 04:18 AM, said:

From the Shelby supplemental manual:

OCTANE RECOMMENDATIONS
Your vehicle is designed to use
“Premium” unleaded gasoline only,
with an (R+M)/2 octane rating of 91
or higher. SVT recommends using
unleaded gasoline with octane rating
of 93 or higher for optimal performance of this vehicle. Recommended
fuel is an important part of the proper maintenance and optimal
performance of this vehicle. The use of gasoline with an octane rating
lower than 91 can lead to severe mechanical damage to your vehicle,
may degrade vehicle performance, and may affect your warranty
coverage. Please see the Warranty Guide for complete information.
SVT does not recommend the use of gasoline labeled as Premium with
octane ratings of less than 91.

This is interesting! Yesterday I finally got the car out for a steady five miles..driving a steady 60mph. I did not get an activation od my SC from all I can tell. I'm running 91 octane, because I can't fine higher where I'm living in BC.


So, looks like you can use 91 but I'm reasonably sure the engine's computer  "de-tunes" the engine accordingly, as you need 93 octane for "optimal" performance.  My local service manager told me the car reacts to octane level and ethanol percentage of the fuel.  That could explain the "my supercharger isn't turning on yet"  complaint that some folks are complaining about even after 500+ miles of driving.

[66DNA]

Maybe we can " sticky" this thread for continual dumb questions!

[Son of GT]

66DNA, on 20 June 2010 - 12:18 PM, said:

Maybe we can " sticky" this thread for continual dumb questions!

Good idea....and done.

[VegasMichael]

All right. I have a dumb one. It's been bothering me so here it is: Can you still get a Super Snake package done on a stock 2007, 2008, 2009 or 2010 GT500? I know the numbers were supposed to be limited for this modification but if I decide to pick up a second hand 07-10 can the SS package still be done by SAI on any of those years or have they reached their quotas for each year? Thanks.

[Wingrider]

Dumb Q:  Can the silver Sync badge (advertisement) be safely removed from the lower shifter console?

I hope its just glued on as it's just a high tech "tramp stamp" to me...

-Wingrider

[supersnake94]

Here's a REALLY dumb one and it's for performance; can it be possible to combine ARH long tube headers with and SLP loudmouth exhaust on a GT500?



I looked this setup up on youtube, and I mainly got videos of just the Mustang GT with this setup.

here's a 2007 GT/CS with that setup. I know already that the 4.6 is a 3V and the 5.4 is a 4V

[Son of GT]

VegasMichael, on 21 June 2010 - 04:47 PM, said:

All right. I have a dumb one. It's been bothering me so here it is: Can you still get a Super Snake package done on a stock 2007, 2008, 2009 or 2010 GT500? I know the numbers were supposed to be limited for this modification but if I decide to pick up a second hand 07-10 can the SS package still be done by SAI on any of those years or have they reached their quotas for each year? Thanks.

The Super Snake program is wide open and SA will happly convert any GT500 into a SS.

[Pockdog]

Here are my questions:

Q: What is the difference between the radiator, the heat exchanger and the intercooler (and what does each one do)?

Q2: Where are each of the above located in the car?

Q3: Why are there two fluid reservoirs inside the engine compartment just behind the grill with red liquid in them?

Thanks (good thread)

-Pockdog

[GOTVENOMGT500]

I have one, anyone know if the USB port in the center consle is USB 2.0?

[davegt500]

Pockdog, on 22 June 2010 - 03:36 PM, said:

Here are my questions:

Q: What is the difference between the radiator, the heat exchanger and the intercooler (and what does each one do)?

Q2: Where are each of the above located in the car?

Q3: Why are there two fluid reservoirs inside the engine compartment just behind the grill with red liquid in them?

Thanks (good thread)

-Pockdog

Yes, it is a good thread. Ok, I'll bite.

1.Radiator cools engine coolant which is circulated throughout the block/heads by the engine mounted coolant pump. Heat exchanger cools supercharger discharge air coolant. Inter cooler cools the SDP air. (Supercharger Discharge Pressure)

2.Under the hood in front, Under the supercharger for the intercooler. (Also called an integrated intercooler)

3.Don't have my GT500 yet but there is a tank for supercharger discharge air coolant, and there is an engine coolant catch tank for heated and expanded engine coolant which is sucked out by the EDP (Engine Driven Pump) during operation.

Do I win? huh? huh?

Edited by davegt500, 23 June 2010 - 05:40 AM.