9 replies to this topic

[chuckstang]

I am trying to find out info about this part in our GT500s and how it works.  Is there a master cylinder for the brakes and a master cylinder for the clutch?

How do they operate on our applications?  I tried searching the net and only found general info but nothing particular to our cars.

Reason I am asking is because as many know I have had off and on clutch problems but recently I had the complete 2010 clutch kit with flywheel pressure plate, slave cylinder and so on replaced.

But today after driving for a long time in the heat, I noticed the same problems I have always had propping back up like, a clutch pedal that just does not feel right, does not release like it should and so forth.  But what really got me to go, "huh" was when I tried pressing the brakes firmly for a quick stop, the brake pedal did not have the correct feel, it was very hard, almost like I had no brakes.  The car stopped but the pedal did not feel right.

This is when I got thinking, that perhaps my master cylinder is not working properly and I have heard that both the hydraulic clutch and our power brakes run off this so that may explain my problems.


Could anyone with more information on these parts please chime in.  Part numbers would be very helpful and how to go about replacing as well perhaps.

I trried googling and found nothing.

I am unsure why it happened after a whole lot of driving today in the heat but maybe someone could figure that one out.

Anyway, I am thinking that if this is my issue, perhaps some of these so called clutch problems are really nothing to do with the clutch but the hydraulics.

Thanks a lot in advance

Edited by chuckstang, 19 June 2010 - 09:56 PM.

[Grabber]

Sounds like they may need to bleed your clutch again. Yes the reservoir is shared with the Clutch system. The clutch Master cylinder gets it's fluid from the shared reservoir.

Here is the PDF files on both systems and how to bleed the clutch. Part numbers are listed.


 Clutch Master cylinder.pdf   152.2K   158 downloads

 Brake Master Cylinder.pdf   195.99K   114 downloads

 Clutch bleeding procedure.pdf   69.33K   219 downloads

[chuckstang]

Thanks Grabber, so does my observation with the poor brake pedal feel go hand in hand with the poor clutch pedal feel make sense?

I will try bleeding again, but perhaps replacement is needed since I am now realizing this has been my problems for a long time I believe.

Thank you very much, I have no idea how you find this great stuff!

Lastly, can pumping the brake or clutch pedal actually introduce air into the system?  I ask because I do this often.

Edited by chuckstang, 19 June 2010 - 10:20 PM.

[Grabber]

chuckstang, on 19 June 2010 - 10:18 PM, said:

Thanks Grabber, so does my observation with the poor brake pedal feel go hand in hand with the poor clutch pedal feel make sense?

I will try bleeding again, but perhaps replacement is needed since I am now realizing this has been my problems for a long time I believe.

Thank you very much, I have no idea how you find this great stuff!

Lastly, can pumping the brake or clutch pedal actually introduce air into the system? I ask because I do this often.

Chuck,

For the next week before you drive your car or start it up do this.

Don't start the car.

Pump the brake pedal 5 times until it is nice and hard. It may only take 3 times.

Then pump the clutch pedal 6-9 times. Don't pump it real fast.

then start the car and drive it.

Do this before you drive the car for the next 5-8 uses.

This will help get the air out of the system back up to the reservoir from what I have been told. It seems to work for a few people that had problems.

If this does not work, have the tech re-bleed the clutch....per the procedure that I posted.

....and to answer your question, the pedals do not pump air into the system.

[Nitro]

Just to add something here. Our cars use a vacuum booster for the brake system, so, if for some reason the vacuum line to the booster came off or was restricted, your brake pedal would take considerably more foot pressure to stop the car since the booster would not be working. Check your vacuum line, particularly since they were working in that area of your car. The fact that both systems are giving you problems is baffeling. One other thing to add is that the only common component to both the clutch and brake system is the reservoir where the fluid is. The brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder are totally seperate from each other (two seperate systems). If both systems are giving you problems it is more likely that both systems have air in them, or, possibly they used the wrong fluid and it has damaged the o'rings in both systems.

Edited by Nitro, 19 June 2010 - 10:52 PM.

[Nitro]

Chuck, did you ever find out what the problem was with your clutch and brakes?

[chuckstang]

Nitro, on 21 June 2010 - 04:31 PM, said:

Chuck, did you ever find out what the problem was with your clutch and brakes?

I called the dealer back, and they said they would take a look but I hope they at the least do a full bleed like what Grabber posted. I am leaving it off tomorrow hopefully and I will be on my way.

I have been doing the brake and clutch pumping since Grabber mentioned it .

The only time I notice the irregular clutch feel in the release is when taking off slow in 1st or R like when your in a parking lot but I also particularly notice it when starting on a hill.

Maybe I am wrong but I would think the clutch release should have a consistent feel.  I can def tell the difference when it release properly from a stop vs not.

Good news is that I dont have any clutch problems, it works great, just gota be an air bubble or something.  It feels like clutch chatter in the pedal (best way to describe it) but as you know the 2010 clutch does not actually chatter at all. awsome clutch.

[chuckstang]

Grabber, on 19 June 2010 - 10:38 PM, said:

Chuck,

For the next week before you drive your car or start it up do this.

Don't start the car.

Pump the brake pedal 5 times until it is nice and hard. It may only take 3 times.

Then pump the clutch pedal 6-9 times. Don't pump it real fast.

then start the car and drive it.

Do this before you drive the car for the next 5-8 uses.

This will help get the air out of the system back up to the reservoir from what I have been told. It seems to work for a few people that had problems.

If this does not work, have the tech re-bleed the clutch....per the procedure that I posted.

....and to answer your question, the pedals do not pump air into the system.

Been doing this each time before I start up the car, sometimes several times in a day, and too soon to say for sure but I think it is helping.

thanks grabber

[Grabber]

Bump.

See post 2 for bleeding the clutch.

[jnf]

Had the same issue recently after I had the McLeod RXT installed.
A friend drove it and said I had air in the clutch line and suggested pumping the pedal.
Also suggested driving the car as much as possible in stop and go traffic. And, as strange as this sounds, suggested tracking the car which I recently did at the Bash.
Worked like a charm. No more air in line, clutch is nicely broken in, and makes the stock clutch look like garbage. Well, I guess the stock clutch IS garbage.
McLeod also suggested 500 miles of non-freeway driving for break in.

Maybe this will help someone down the road.