Kicker sound system for 2008 Mustang
Posted 22 December 2010 - 07:10 PM
Posted 22 December 2010 - 07:53 PM
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Posted 22 December 2010 - 08:43 PM
Posted 22 December 2010 - 09:49 PM
Yes you have to run new wiring from the new amp, located behind the glove box to the new sub. It's easy to do.
Posted 22 December 2010 - 10:34 PM
Posted 22 December 2010 - 11:32 PM
Posted 23 December 2010 - 07:28 AM
The sub and the amps behind the sub all come out and is replaced with the new sub, no amps. A new amp is install behind the glove box. A cable is connected to the back of the radio to the amp then another cable runs from the amp the the new sub in the trunk.
I've installed aftermarket stereos before just wasn't sure if they made u run a wire from the new sub to the new amp. The amp under the glove box is for the 6x8s and 8" speakers right? The sub has it's own amp on the back of the box right?
Posted 23 December 2010 - 10:23 AM
Posted 23 December 2010 - 10:27 AM
Edited by dingo2008, 26 December 2010 - 05:10 PM.
Posted 23 December 2010 - 10:42 AM
Alloy/Satin Silver Stripes
ALL STOCK!!! ...When I bought it!!!
Posted 23 December 2010 - 11:09 AM
Posted 23 December 2010 - 11:40 AM
Posted 23 December 2010 - 12:10 PM
RECENTLY SOLD CAR: 2008 GT500 Red w/White Stripes
MODS: VMP 2.59 Pulley & Tune, JLT Induction Tube, Airaid Blue SynthaMax Filter, Painted STB Brace, FRPP Springs, BRM Adjustable Panhard Bar, Borla S-Type Exhaust, 20% Window Tint, Speed Dawg Shifter, NXT Hood Lifts, CDC Dead Pedal, Kicker Speaker/Sub Upgrade, Cobra Floor Mats, 2013 Splitter, SVTPP Wheels & Tires, Cervini Tinted Taillight, V-Led 5K LED Fog Lights, etc.
Posted 23 December 2010 - 07:49 PM
Posted 24 December 2010 - 04:00 PM
Yes, I purchased the entire kicker system for 30% off in 2009. Great Buy!!!
Have they ever sold the kicker stereo system for 30% off I seen a post back in 2009 where a guy said he got it for under $1000
Posted 24 December 2010 - 04:13 PM
Posted 26 December 2010 - 02:25 PM
The short answer is no. The long answer is no. Robert had to hide for three or four weeks last time to stay under the radar.
Do they do that much off often
Posted 26 December 2010 - 04:51 PM
Posted 26 December 2010 - 05:29 PM
40th Anniversary King of the Road
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Shelby Autographed Air Bag Cover
Shelby KR 40th Anniv. 1:18 Scale Autographed by Carroll Shelby
Shelby 20" Alcoas Wheels
MRT Hood Struts
Revan Racing Radiator
Revan Racing Heat Exchanger
WebElectric Products Sequential Tail Lights
Faux Cap Power Plug from "Mr Farmdog"
"Craigs Custom Mustang Brackets" front license plate bracket/NO HOLES DRILLED!!!
911 of 1011 KR's built in 2008
Posted 28 December 2010 - 08:14 AM
Also any one that has this can you tell a big difference from this one 10" sub compaired to the two factory 10" subs? Is there twice as much bass and is it deeper and better sounding than the two factory ones?
Edited by dingo2008, 28 December 2010 - 08:37 AM.
Posted 07 January 2011 - 07:43 PM
Posted 07 January 2011 - 08:45 PM
You will have to cut some wires. No big deal, just follow the instructions. The kicker sub is way better than the factory subs. The bass is tighter, and much more musical. It also has more power. The factory sub amps are 80 watts RMS.
Ordered my kicker system yesterday, do you really have to cut the speaker wires for the 8" speakers any one have a pic of the factory 8" speaker wires I'd much rather not have to cut the speaker wires and strip them. I seen a pic of a factory 8" speaker and it had spade terminals, should I be able to wrap a wire and heat shrink it and run that to the new 8" or solder it onto the factory spade terminal?
Also any one that has this can you tell a big difference from this one 10" sub compared to the two factory 10" subs? Is there twice as much bass and is it deeper and better sounding than the two factory ones?
2015 50th Limited Edition Mustang #48
2007 Shelby GT-500 40th Anniversary CSM#07XL0124
Red with Silver Stripes.
2013 Boss 302LS #18. School Bus Yellow.
2014 Ford Fiesta ST Molten Orange
Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:31 AM
Edited by dingo2008, 27 January 2011 - 07:32 AM.
Posted 27 January 2011 - 04:34 PM
I was testing it in my garage and a neighbor four houses down stopped by. She asked "were you just playing Iron Man a few minutes ago"? After I sheepishly pled guilty she said I had awakened her baby (whoops!).
You need to pay close attention to the back of the A/C rotary switch when you are taking out the panel in the center stack. It took me hours to figure out that you push in (from the back of the connector) AND lift up at the same time. The part of the connector you move is gray colored. There's a video on YouTube on removing the Shaker that shows the back of the connector that was a big help.
System sounds great but, for me, is tempermental with freezing temperatures. If I open the hood and pull the two provided in-line fuses and put them back in then the system works again. Goes fine all day after that but for some reason doesn't like to be outside on cold nights. Haven't figured out a fix yet! Works without a problem when temperature is not freezing.
Posted 27 January 2011 - 05:00 PM
Posted 27 January 2011 - 07:00 PM
2007 CL-ONE 5.4L "Eleanor" Tungsten Grey With Vista Blue
Build Date: 6/12/2007, Purchase Date: 11/21/2007
Mods: Baer 14" Front and Rear Rotors, Brembo front brakes, Bunch of Steeda Performance stuff and
most important Heated Leather Seats!! (During the winter that is)
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