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GT500 - which gears?


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#21 OFFLINE   CodyWayne718

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Posted 26 May 2012 - 11:24 PM

Old thread I know. I'm good at that. Trying to find the 3.73s on tousley and this is all I can find http://www.tousleyfo...ponent=GEAR KIT

Is that what I need? It doesn't say what ratio they are so I assume stock.

#22 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 04:48 AM

View PostCodyWayne718, on 26 May 2012 - 11:24 PM, said:

Old thread I know. I'm good at that. Trying to find the 3.73s on tousley and this is all I can find http://www.tousleyfo...nent=GEAR%20KIT
Is that what I need? It doesn't say what ratio they are so I assume stock.


No, this is what you need:

P/N: M-4209-88373

Description: 8.8" 3.73 Ring Gear And Pinion

http://fordracingpar...tKeyField=13230

Call Steve or Mike at Tousley and order that part number along with a Installation kit, listed on the above page.

The instructions are also linked on the page I provided the link to.


Phill
2010 GT500 Coupe
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover


CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY:  SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~

PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.

#23 OFFLINE   wingsnut

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 06:05 AM

At stock power level 3:73's are great, just be prepared to spend some coin to get it to hook if you add goodies under the hood. As stated above and nobody really believes me when I tell them I am getting just as good if not better fuel mileage with TVS, VMP tune and 3:73's as I did completely stock.
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Spec SS super twin clutch, SS clutch fluid line, Shelby extreme duty heat exchanger and radiator

#24 OFFLINE   SSGT500

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 07:22 AM

The first mod that I did to my 07 GT500 was a 3.73 gear.  That's probably why I'm still on the original clutch.  I was very disappointed that Ford built these cars with a 3.31 gear.  Then they wondered why they had clutch problems.  Since changing the gears, I've gone to a smaller tire that gives me an effective 3.90 ratio.  That feels really good.  The car is easy to launch on the street and feels great on the track.  My favorite place for FRPP parts is Buy Ford Racing.com.  They have 3.73s for $139 including shipping.
http://www.buyfordra...INION-SETS.html

#25 OFFLINE   rdrawkit

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 03:26 PM

All purpose gear is the 3:73...Great with stock set-up or stage 1/2 setups....So easily to drive and great on the highway .....I'm running stock wheel size and nitto 555 all around....no complaints....

#26 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 27 May 2012 - 04:22 PM

3.73:1 are the way to go IMO. The important thing is to buy the installation kit also and take it to the installer - if they say that they don't need it - RUN don't just walk away !
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#27 OFFLINE   frazierfreud

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Posted 28 May 2012 - 07:00 AM

I've considered 3.73 gears. Just worried about traction. I hook nicely with drag radials with my stock 3.31 gears.  I am just concerned that I couldn't floor it in second gear without losing traction. Plus, I am considering going with a regular street tire instead of drag radials...this would probably assure me of not keeping traction with a 3.73
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#28 OFFLINE   rdrawkit

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Posted 28 May 2012 - 01:16 PM

Traction and 3:73 gears can be a problem...I learned how to feather the launch with nitto tires and 2nd grabs very nicley and I'm gone....

#29 OFFLINE   CodyWayne718

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 04:54 PM

Would this install kit be alright?

http://www.americanm...moinkit8re.html

Or should I get the one from the above post for the 2012? The one at AM is just so cheap...... get what ya pay for, I know. That's why I'm asking first :-) Thanks

#30 OFFLINE   CodyWayne718

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Posted 01 June 2012 - 08:04 PM

I've got the feeling that's not the install kit I need. Is it? There's like 5 different install kits!

#31 OFFLINE   svt2010

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 04:52 AM

Does anyone make a 3.90 gear for the 8.8 rear in out cars?

#32 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 08:22 AM

View Postsvt2010, on 02 June 2012 - 04:52 AM, said:

Does anyone make a 3.90 gear for the 8.8 rear in out cars?
Yes
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#33 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:20 AM

View PostCodyWayne718, on 01 June 2012 - 08:04 PM, said:

I've got the feeling that's not the install kit I need. Is it? There's like 5 different install kits!

Ford Racing offers 3 levels of install kit. The one you cited is identical to the lowest end FRPP kit at the very same price. All it includes is the shims, pinion seal, crush sleeve and gasket.

Another includes bearings. I can't remember what the third one includes but if you follow the link to the Ford Racing gear, the 3 kits are listed near the bottom of the page.


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2010 GT500 Coupe
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover


CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY:  SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~

PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.

#34 OFFLINE   CodyWayne718

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 01:52 PM

So which one should I go with? Car has 18k miles on it. Thanks guys

#35 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 02:24 PM

View PostCodyWayne718, on 02 June 2012 - 01:52 PM, said:

So which one should I go with? Car has 18k miles on it. Thanks guys

I have a complete Snap-On puller set and bearing grips and caps to install so I can get away with using the basic kit without bearings. I can pull the bearings without destroying them, not sure if you can or not.

If you can pull the side/carrier bearings and the pinion bearing off without damage, you don't need bearings. Simple as that (well, unless your bearings are bad). If you can't, you do (need bearings). The Level 3 kit includes axle bearings so if you want to pull them and replace them, that'd be the kit for you. With only 18K miles on the car, your axle bearings should be fine.

SO....if you can pull the diff. bearings, get the 1st (L1) install kit. If you need diff. bearings, get the L2 kit. If you want or need axle bearings, L3 kit.


Phill
2010 GT500 Coupe
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover


CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY:  SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~

PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.

#36 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 02 June 2012 - 03:15 PM

I'll go with door (I mean kit) #2 Phill - :yahoo:- A WINNER !

Edited by Albino500, 02 June 2012 - 03:16 PM.

2007 GT500 Built on 7/27/2006
#918 of a build of 8152 coupes
#212 of 2252 in Performance White

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2007 SGT-California Edition Built on 5/15/2007
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1 of 89 Shelby GT-California Editions done in Performance White/Silver Stripes
Converted to " SCCA SMG Class " race car - 2/04/2013

#37 OFFLINE   corepuncher

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Posted 23 November 2012 - 12:59 PM

I have 3.73's, and they are NOT right for my car.  I am looking to go MUCH lower.

I have a 2011 GT500 SVT.  When it was bone stock, the gears were PERFECT!  It would barely scratch the tires in 1st and going into 2nd.

However, now I have a TVS supercharger, and about 170 more hp and torque than stock.  Not balanced any longer. In fact, I have to get to 3rd gear before I can safely go WOT in the power band.

Not only is wheel spin a problem, but just 1st gear in general, the engine is always racing and it seems I have to shift into second 2 seconds after I leave my driveway.

Therefore, I"m going to pick a rear end ratio that reduces wheel spin and increases gas mileage for daily driving.

My choices are 3.55, 3.31, 3.27, 3.15, 3.08.   Which one is best?

I did some calculations.

First, compare to the 2013 which already comes with a TVS. Ford does a good job optimizing, so lets trust them:
Factor in a different 1st gear: Rear ratio X 1st gear = 8.8 for 2013.
My current setup = 11.08 for my 2011.
A 20.5% difference in torque. So what rear end ratio would I need to mimik the 2013 (get an 8.8?):
8.805/11.078 * 3.73 = 2.96.  

Second, since I liked the way it behaved stock...lets compare the torque ratios and reduce 3.73 by that amount (no need to multiply by 1st gear ratio...they are the same):
Stock Torque:  510
My Dyno:  602

510/602 X 3.73 = 3.16.  Ahh...that would suggest 3.15 rear end.

One last benchmark...I found an equation to estimate when tires will break loose at a given torque:
Using a typical 0.7 friction coefficient, I get 464 ft/lbs.  Sticky tires with a 0.8 would yield 530 ft/lbs.
464/602 * 3.73 = 2.87
530/602 * 3.73 = 3.28

So using three different benchmarks:
Range: 2.87 to 3.28
Average of all 4: 3.07
I trust the 2 - real world measurements better than uncertain friction coefficient, so average of those two: 3.06

Now, the 3.08 would seem the winner using the averages.  HOWEVER...this means if I ever get stickier tires, I have left acceleration on the table.

Therefore, I think the optimum choice would be the 3.15. It also happens to be same ratio of when my car was stock, and I LOVED how it accerated...only slight spin.

(3.73 - 3.15)/3.73 =  15.5 % decrease in overall RPM's across the spectrum.  This should result in that same increase in gas mileage...as RPM's are basically proportional to gas usage (ignoring external factors).
That means a nice 2 mpg gain city, 3 mpg gain highway.

One last thing I have to consider...6th gear.  All the other gears' shift points are effectively moved up...but the buck stops with 6th.

At 75 mph I currently am at about 1725 RPM.  If I go with 3.15's, it will drop to 1457.  That should still be fine for interstate...super OD!

I think this all makes sense, please let me know if you find an error, thanks.  Now...time for shopping!  Black Friday in effect.

Edited by corepuncher, 23 November 2012 - 01:11 PM.

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Sterling Grey Metallic + Wide Black Matte Stripes
Mods (performance):Ford TVS + 2.59", CJ TB, C&R Heat Exchanger, 170 deg thermostat, Roush Tank, Resonator Eliminator, Airaid Blue Filter
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#38 OFFLINE   HARLEYDEALER

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:33 AM

This link is very helpful, when choosing the right gear, I rather be a tat lower, then taller. But it's up to you and your driving style and how you want your car to react. Bill     http://www.currieent...hCalculator.htm

#39 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 07:39 AM

corepuncher - JMO - tire diameter and coefficient of friction factor need be looked at more and one can only guess at driving style . My guess at this point would be to suggest a 3.27:1 rearend ratio to establish what you are after. Run the numbers and see what you think. Good luck and enjoy the ride.

Edited by Albino500, 29 November 2012 - 07:41 AM.

2007 GT500 Built on 7/27/2006
#918 of a build of 8152 coupes
#212 of 2252 in Performance White

Member of Terlingua Racing Team
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CSM#07SGT4755
1 of 89 Shelby GT-California Editions done in Performance White/Silver Stripes
Converted to " SCCA SMG Class " race car - 2/04/2013

#40 OFFLINE   corepuncher

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:06 AM

Thanks for your replies. I have ordered the 3.15 gears, along with a new girdle (hope it does not make me look fat)

Since my 1st gear is a 2.97, it really raps up fast.  I decided to use the 2013 as a baseline since it has the same TVS as mine. 2013 has 2.66 1st gear.

One thing I did not take into account, the 2013 might have more torque than mine, since it's a 5.8 liter.  Spec sheet says 631...my dyno said 602.  At first I was thinking that is at the crank but actually I think torque numbers do NOT get reduced like HP does (from engine to wheels)?  Can someone verify this?

If that is the case, I need to re-factor for the 2013 comparison.

So before, I got an equivalent 2.96 rear end.  But multiplying by 631/602 = 3.10.  So it appears the 3.15 I got is just right...a tiny bit shorter which is good.

Again, this is a daily driving car, so I'll never have slicks on it. And if I did, I'd have to get a new driveshaft anyway.

Now, I just need to find a place to install it.  I would try myself but my friend said he had trouble with noise and such. Is there some tutorial that is very precise, would I need any special tools to get aligned properly, or do they just snap into place?
2011 GT500 Shelby Mustang + SVTPP + NAV  Delivered on: July 6th, 2011
Sterling Grey Metallic + Wide Black Matte Stripes
Mods (performance):Ford TVS + 2.59", CJ TB, C&R Heat Exchanger, 170 deg thermostat, Roush Tank, Resonator Eliminator, Airaid Blue Filter
20" Asanti 3-Piece forged rims with Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires (255 F, 295 R)
Mods (dress up):Carroll Shelby Signature Plate, 20% Tint, Turn signal & Quarter marker light tint,
chrome door bezel, locks, handles, headlight knob, map lights, seat adjustment levers.

Stereo: JL C5-570x front doors, JL C2-570x rear, Jl Cleansweep + DX400 Amp, Memphis 1000D Amp + 12" Diamond Sub




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