GT500 - which gears?
#21 OFFLINE
Posted 26 May 2012 - 11:24 PM
Is that what I need? It doesn't say what ratio they are so I assume stock.
#22 OFFLINE
Posted 27 May 2012 - 04:48 AM
CodyWayne718, on 26 May 2012 - 11:24 PM, said:
Is that what I need? It doesn't say what ratio they are so I assume stock.
No, this is what you need:
P/N: M-4209-88373
Description: 8.8" 3.73 Ring Gear And Pinion
http://fordracingpar...tKeyField=13230
Call Steve or Mike at Tousley and order that part number along with a Installation kit, listed on the above page.
The instructions are also linked on the page I provided the link to.
Phill
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover
CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~
PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.
#23 OFFLINE
Posted 27 May 2012 - 06:05 AM
Installed Mods
TVS, VMP Tune, JLT Oil Separators, FR3 handling pack, Shelby Fays2 watts link, Baer Eradispeed front and rear brake kits with Hawk pads, BMR UCA and LCA's, LCA relocation brackets, J&M caster/camber plates, FRRP SVT axle assembly w/ 3:73 gears, MGW shifter.
Mods still in boxes
Spec SS super twin clutch, SS clutch fluid line, Shelby extreme duty heat exchanger and radiator
#24 OFFLINE
Posted 27 May 2012 - 07:22 AM
http://www.buyfordra...INION-SETS.html
#25 OFFLINE
Posted 27 May 2012 - 03:26 PM
#26 OFFLINE
Posted 27 May 2012 - 04:22 PM
#918 of a build of 8152 coupes
#212 of 2252 in Performance White
Member of Terlingua Racing Team
Member of the "Clean Butt Club" - Class of 2010
2012 Shelby American 50th Anniversary Vegas Bash Car Show "Class" Award Winner
2007 SGT-California Edition Built on 5/15/2007
CSM#07SGT4755
1 of 89 Shelby GT-California Editions done in Performance White/Silver Stripes
Converted to " SCCA SMG Class " race car - 2/04/2013
#27 OFFLINE
Posted 28 May 2012 - 07:00 AM
-Ebony w/ white stripes
-Build Date: August 12, 2008 (my birthday!)
-Kenne Bell Mammoth 2.8H Stage III
-700 rwhp
-Jon Lund tune
-3.5" upper pulley
-IW 10% lower OD pulley
-Bosch 105 lb. injectors
-Revan/Shelby Heat Exchanger
-PFAB heat exchanger reservoir
-Moroso Coolant Expansion Tank
-Redline Tuning Hood QuickLIFT Elite
-JLT carbon fiber radiator cover w/extensions, fuse box cover,
w/true flame custom paint (white/grey)
-Shelby billet engine cap set
-American Racing 1-7/8" Long Tube Headers
-American Racing 3" x-pipe and high flow cats
-3" Magna Flow Magnapack catback exhaust
-Spec SS twin disc clutch kit
-Dynotech 1-piece aluminum driveshaft
-Koni Sport shocks and struts
-FRPP springs
-Shelby caster / camber plates
-Fays2 Watts link
-FRPP adjustable upper control arm
-BMR lower control arms
-BMR lower control arm relocation brackets
-FRPP low profile differential cover
-Bob's Autosports axle reservoir
-Shelby Alcoa Super Snakes w/ DuraBright finish 20"x10" rear, 20"x9" front
-custom flush-fit Cobra center caps for Alcoa wheels
-BF Goodrich G-Force T/A KDW NT 285/30/20 (rear), 255/35/20 (front)
-Goodridge braided stainless steel brake lines
-Hawk HP Plus brake pads
-JLT brake cooling kit w/ bezels
-Dash plaque...Carroll Shelby autographed
-Grabberpony custom shift knob
-OEM look dead pedal
-Champion Mustang / Gary Disney, interior upgrade package + console cover + shifter boot...black/white
-Custom white door inserts / rear white inserts
-USSPEEDO white gauge face
-Cobra power plug
-Shelby map light accent
-"Shelby GT 500" floor mats
-UPR black billet 3.5" shorty antenna
-Escort Passport 9500ix w/ Blendamount rear view mirror mount w/ mirror tap plug in.
2012 FORD MUSTANG BOSS 302
- performance white
- track key
- # 3232
#28 OFFLINE
Posted 28 May 2012 - 01:16 PM
#29 OFFLINE
Posted 01 June 2012 - 04:54 PM
http://www.americanm...moinkit8re.html
Or should I get the one from the above post for the 2012? The one at AM is just so cheap...... get what ya pay for, I know. That's why I'm asking first :-) Thanks
#30 OFFLINE
Posted 01 June 2012 - 08:04 PM
#31 OFFLINE
Posted 02 June 2012 - 04:52 AM
#32 OFFLINE
Posted 02 June 2012 - 08:22 AM
svt2010, on 02 June 2012 - 04:52 AM, said:
#918 of a build of 8152 coupes
#212 of 2252 in Performance White
Member of Terlingua Racing Team
Member of the "Clean Butt Club" - Class of 2010
2012 Shelby American 50th Anniversary Vegas Bash Car Show "Class" Award Winner
2007 SGT-California Edition Built on 5/15/2007
CSM#07SGT4755
1 of 89 Shelby GT-California Editions done in Performance White/Silver Stripes
Converted to " SCCA SMG Class " race car - 2/04/2013
#33 OFFLINE
Posted 02 June 2012 - 10:20 AM
CodyWayne718, on 01 June 2012 - 08:04 PM, said:
Ford Racing offers 3 levels of install kit. The one you cited is identical to the lowest end FRPP kit at the very same price. All it includes is the shims, pinion seal, crush sleeve and gasket.
Another includes bearings. I can't remember what the third one includes but if you follow the link to the Ford Racing gear, the 3 kits are listed near the bottom of the page.
Phill
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover
CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~
PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.
#34 OFFLINE
Posted 02 June 2012 - 01:52 PM
#35 OFFLINE
Posted 02 June 2012 - 02:24 PM
CodyWayne718, on 02 June 2012 - 01:52 PM, said:
I have a complete Snap-On puller set and bearing grips and caps to install so I can get away with using the basic kit without bearings. I can pull the bearings without destroying them, not sure if you can or not.
If you can pull the side/carrier bearings and the pinion bearing off without damage, you don't need bearings. Simple as that (well, unless your bearings are bad). If you can't, you do (need bearings). The Level 3 kit includes axle bearings so if you want to pull them and replace them, that'd be the kit for you. With only 18K miles on the car, your axle bearings should be fine.
SO....if you can pull the diff. bearings, get the 1st (L1) install kit. If you need diff. bearings, get the L2 kit. If you want or need axle bearings, L3 kit.
Phill
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover
CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~
PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.
#36 OFFLINE
Posted 02 June 2012 - 03:15 PM
Edited by Albino500, 02 June 2012 - 03:16 PM.
#918 of a build of 8152 coupes
#212 of 2252 in Performance White
Member of Terlingua Racing Team
Member of the "Clean Butt Club" - Class of 2010
2012 Shelby American 50th Anniversary Vegas Bash Car Show "Class" Award Winner
2007 SGT-California Edition Built on 5/15/2007
CSM#07SGT4755
1 of 89 Shelby GT-California Editions done in Performance White/Silver Stripes
Converted to " SCCA SMG Class " race car - 2/04/2013
#37 OFFLINE
Posted 23 November 2012 - 12:59 PM
I have a 2011 GT500 SVT. When it was bone stock, the gears were PERFECT! It would barely scratch the tires in 1st and going into 2nd.
However, now I have a TVS supercharger, and about 170 more hp and torque than stock. Not balanced any longer. In fact, I have to get to 3rd gear before I can safely go WOT in the power band.
Not only is wheel spin a problem, but just 1st gear in general, the engine is always racing and it seems I have to shift into second 2 seconds after I leave my driveway.
Therefore, I"m going to pick a rear end ratio that reduces wheel spin and increases gas mileage for daily driving.
My choices are 3.55, 3.31, 3.27, 3.15, 3.08. Which one is best?
I did some calculations.
First, compare to the 2013 which already comes with a TVS. Ford does a good job optimizing, so lets trust them:
Factor in a different 1st gear: Rear ratio X 1st gear = 8.8 for 2013.
My current setup = 11.08 for my 2011.
A 20.5% difference in torque. So what rear end ratio would I need to mimik the 2013 (get an 8.8?):
8.805/11.078 * 3.73 = 2.96.
Second, since I liked the way it behaved stock...lets compare the torque ratios and reduce 3.73 by that amount (no need to multiply by 1st gear ratio...they are the same):
Stock Torque: 510
My Dyno: 602
510/602 X 3.73 = 3.16. Ahh...that would suggest 3.15 rear end.
One last benchmark...I found an equation to estimate when tires will break loose at a given torque:
Using a typical 0.7 friction coefficient, I get 464 ft/lbs. Sticky tires with a 0.8 would yield 530 ft/lbs.
464/602 * 3.73 = 2.87
530/602 * 3.73 = 3.28
So using three different benchmarks:
Range: 2.87 to 3.28
Average of all 4: 3.07
I trust the 2 - real world measurements better than uncertain friction coefficient, so average of those two: 3.06
Now, the 3.08 would seem the winner using the averages. HOWEVER...this means if I ever get stickier tires, I have left acceleration on the table.
Therefore, I think the optimum choice would be the 3.15. It also happens to be same ratio of when my car was stock, and I LOVED how it accerated...only slight spin.
(3.73 - 3.15)/3.73 = 15.5 % decrease in overall RPM's across the spectrum. This should result in that same increase in gas mileage...as RPM's are basically proportional to gas usage (ignoring external factors).
That means a nice 2 mpg gain city, 3 mpg gain highway.
One last thing I have to consider...6th gear. All the other gears' shift points are effectively moved up...but the buck stops with 6th.
At 75 mph I currently am at about 1725 RPM. If I go with 3.15's, it will drop to 1457. That should still be fine for interstate...super OD!
I think this all makes sense, please let me know if you find an error, thanks. Now...time for shopping! Black Friday in effect.
Edited by corepuncher, 23 November 2012 - 01:11 PM.
Sterling Grey Metallic + Wide Black Matte Stripes
Mods (performance):Ford TVS + 2.59", CJ TB, C&R Heat Exchanger, 170 deg thermostat, Roush Tank, Resonator Eliminator, Airaid Blue Filter
20" Asanti 3-Piece forged rims with Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires (255 F, 295 R)
Mods (dress up):Carroll Shelby Signature Plate, 20% Tint, Turn signal & Quarter marker light tint,
chrome door bezel, locks, handles, headlight knob, map lights, seat adjustment levers.
Stereo: JL C5-570x front doors, JL C2-570x rear, Jl Cleansweep + DX400 Amp, Memphis 1000D Amp + 12" Diamond Sub
#38 OFFLINE
Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:33 AM
#39 OFFLINE
Posted 29 November 2012 - 07:39 AM
Edited by Albino500, 29 November 2012 - 07:41 AM.
#918 of a build of 8152 coupes
#212 of 2252 in Performance White
Member of Terlingua Racing Team
Member of the "Clean Butt Club" - Class of 2010
2012 Shelby American 50th Anniversary Vegas Bash Car Show "Class" Award Winner
2007 SGT-California Edition Built on 5/15/2007
CSM#07SGT4755
1 of 89 Shelby GT-California Editions done in Performance White/Silver Stripes
Converted to " SCCA SMG Class " race car - 2/04/2013
#40 OFFLINE
Posted 29 November 2012 - 08:06 AM
Since my 1st gear is a 2.97, it really raps up fast. I decided to use the 2013 as a baseline since it has the same TVS as mine. 2013 has 2.66 1st gear.
One thing I did not take into account, the 2013 might have more torque than mine, since it's a 5.8 liter. Spec sheet says 631...my dyno said 602. At first I was thinking that is at the crank but actually I think torque numbers do NOT get reduced like HP does (from engine to wheels)? Can someone verify this?
If that is the case, I need to re-factor for the 2013 comparison.
So before, I got an equivalent 2.96 rear end. But multiplying by 631/602 = 3.10. So it appears the 3.15 I got is just right...a tiny bit shorter which is good.
Again, this is a daily driving car, so I'll never have slicks on it. And if I did, I'd have to get a new driveshaft anyway.
Now, I just need to find a place to install it. I would try myself but my friend said he had trouble with noise and such. Is there some tutorial that is very precise, would I need any special tools to get aligned properly, or do they just snap into place?
Sterling Grey Metallic + Wide Black Matte Stripes
Mods (performance):Ford TVS + 2.59", CJ TB, C&R Heat Exchanger, 170 deg thermostat, Roush Tank, Resonator Eliminator, Airaid Blue Filter
20" Asanti 3-Piece forged rims with Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires (255 F, 295 R)
Mods (dress up):Carroll Shelby Signature Plate, 20% Tint, Turn signal & Quarter marker light tint,
chrome door bezel, locks, handles, headlight knob, map lights, seat adjustment levers.
Stereo: JL C5-570x front doors, JL C2-570x rear, Jl Cleansweep + DX400 Amp, Memphis 1000D Amp + 12" Diamond Sub
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