Brembo Speed Bleeders
Posted 13 July 2011 - 11:07 AM
Posted 13 July 2011 - 11:34 AM
Just installed these on mine in the spring and comes as a set of 4.
07 Alloy vert
Full auto conversion
Edelbrock E-force 424RWHP/400RWTQ (stock air box), TCI shifter, Roush billet LCAs, GTA mufflers, Bullitt suspension, Powerhouse DS, GT500 pumps, Afco HE, GT500 Brembo's
CDC light bar, Classic chin spoiler & rear blackout, Agent 47 mirrors, SHR billet interior, '10 GT500 wheels, Moroso tanks/covers, Bullitt steering wheel & dash, Foose Hood, CDC billet grills
Posted 23 July 2011 - 04:25 PM
I've seen a lot of different posts from a lot of different folks regarding bleeding either the OEM Brembo's or the Shelby/Baer 6 S/P calipers on Shelby's and Mustang's.
I don't understand the need for speed bleeders. When I put my Baer 6S brakes on the front of my 2010 GT500 I gravity bled the new (empty/dry) front brake calipers and I didn't have ANY issues at all with them.
Disc brakes do not have residual check valves in them so you can gravity bleed them and it only takes one person without a bleeder hose, pressure bleeder system, mity-vac, etc.
The master cylinder reservoir is high enough reletive to the caliper bleeder screws that it takes all of about 10 seconds for the fluid to get from the MC to the caliper and to fill up the caliper, per section (2 sections per side on the Brembo & Baer calipers).
It's really easy to do. Start out by making sure your Master Cylinder (MC) is topped off with brake fluid.
Open the bleeder screw (ALWAYS located at the top of the caliper, or they are on the wrong side) closest to the brake line banjo fitting (i.e. "inboard"). Keep it open until fluid just starts dribbling out (catch it JUST as it appears in the bleeder outlet and you'll have less/no mess). Wipe the excess fluid off with a shop rag and move to the outboard side.
Open the bleeder on the outboard side and wait for fluid to appear. Tighten the bleeder screws to spec and continue.
Move over to the other side of the car and repeat.
I always start bleeding brakes with the caliper FARTHEST from the master cylinder. If bleeding front and rear, start at the right rear, to go the left rear, then to the right front and end up with the left front. If you are bleeding just front calipers, start on the right (passenger) side, bleed the inboard, then outboad and head over to the left side doing the same (inboard first, outboard last) thing.
Just to insure there is no air in the system I give the brake pedal a couple of good mashes and then recheck the calipers for air bubbles in the same order (right side inboard, then outboard, then left side inboard and finaly left side outboard). Always wipe any spilled brake fluid off so as not to get it on any painted surfaces.
Oh, and be absolutely sure to keep your master cylinder FULL during the process. If it runs dry during bleeding you will have to start all over again but this time starting at the MC connections working your way towards the calipers (major PITA)!
2010 GT500 Coupe
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover
CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet Dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford GT Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil Filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Tubular K-Member Subframe - Tubular A-arms - CS S1000 Billet Aluminum Transmission Crossmember - Seat Harness Bar - 6S Extreme Rear Brakes - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - GT500KR Front Brake Cooling Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - GT500KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear GT500KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar Tires~ Raptor Shift Light
PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails - Shelby Alcoa Forged 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake Style Wheels - Shelby Billet Aluminum Fuel Door - NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box - Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock - ZEX N2O kit - Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.
Soon to be "For Sale": Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets
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