26 replies to this topic

[travesty31]

Dear all,

First and foremost, Happy New Year!!!!  Secondly, I wanted to ask anyone out there for advice about getting a new clutch.  I got my 2008 Shelby GT500 in January of 2011 in Texas and I was really pleased.  It was/is a true blessing from God, and I never knew at 32, I would own a Shelby....let alone a GT500!  Anywhoot, a week before Thanksgiving, I was driving back with my 2 year-old daughter from her visit with grandma, and when I was on the interstate, I was behind a minivan, so I just hit the accelerator to zoom past it, but then i noticed that my engine rpm's revved really high, but the car didn't move at first, and then it "caught" and I moved past the minivan.  As I was moving past the other vehicle I noticed that the boost gauge didn't move much at all, and the shift light came on....when I was in 6th gear!  This alarmed me....especially with my daughter in the car.  I got in in the right lane and dropped my speed, enough to downshift the car in 4th gear, and then I punched it to move through gears.  I noticed the same thing.  As I moved through gears 4-6, I heard and saw the engine revving high, the boost gauge moving lightly, and the shift light coming on in the final gear.  I just stayed in the right lane, and I drove home at a safe speed just to make sure my daughter and I would get home safe.
Needless to say, after calling a friend later on that evening, and doing some research about the symptoms, I was lead to the conclusion that I was having an issue with the clutch.   I then started doing more research and I found coutless stories on this forum and others about the same issue, and I felt relieved on one end, because I knew  even though this was my first car with a manual transmission,  I didn't drive my car reckelssly to make the clutch go out in a year, but then I was saddened, because I knew from reading the various posts that it would be on me to get this fixed, and in this economy coupled with 3 kids and a homemaker wife, then I knew money for such a thing would be problematic....especially when I found out after calling my warranty company that a repair of a clutch would not be covered (I have the platinum plan)...if that was determined the problem of the vehicle (I hadn't brought the car to Ford yet, because I wanted to do research before I take it to the dealership and have them tell me anything).
After Thanksgivng and doing some more research, I finally brought the car in the Ford dealership that is right around the corner from my home in Laplace, LA.   In about an hour, the service manager called me and asked me if I was "sitting down" and he confirmed my fears, that the cluch was going out and that it would have to be replaced according to the latest TSB.  He also said that it would be $3000 to fix.   After doing more research, I was stunned to see so many GT500 owners complaining about the same problem....especially to the flagship vehicle of Ford.  It just blows the mind!   
   Anywhoot, I have been reading in various posts about the 2010 replacement clutch, the Mcleod RXT clutch kit, and the Spec 3+ clutch kit.   I have read good things and not so good things on all of them, but I have seen way more postive feedback on the Mcleod RXT clutch kit, and that is the one I was leaning toward, but I wanted to know definitively which would be the best clutch to get.   My car is tuned, because it has a JLT CAI and it has a Corsa Sport Exhaust and a short throw shifter from Ford Racing and 3.73 gears.   I don't want to pay $3000 if I can get a better clutch for less, because I am leary now of getting anything from the Ford parts catalog, because I don't want to have this same problem again anytime soon. I want a reliable clutch that will hold up to daily driving (I don't have stop and go traffic to deal with because I live in the country and I work at a high school  less than 4 miles from my house) and will be able to handle any future modifications I do the the car, but most imporatantly will last!   Also, if I was to get the Mcleod RXT or Spec 3+ clutch, what other things would I have to get besides a flywheel? And what type of flywheel would I have to get????  Any help would definitley be appreciated. Thanks and God bless!!!

Edited by travesty31, 02 January 2012 - 08:25 AM.

[SSGT500]

31, Welcome to the Club.  I was under the impression that the 2008's had a 5 year, 50,000 mile powertrain warranty.  If that's the case, and your mileage is under 50k, I would think you have a case for clutch replacement under the Ford TSB.  Check some of Grabber's post about this.  He's the resident expert on clutch TSB.  If your local dealer won't do the TSB under warranty, I'd look for another dealer or call Ford customer relations.  If Ford won't honor the warranty, I'd consider using the Ford/BBB arbitration process.  My 2007 still has the original clutch.  But when it goes, I'll also consider the Mcleod unit.

[Ackman70]

I highly recommend the Mcleod RXT clutch. I have it in my '09 and it's been awesome! I would also recommend you add the Ford Racing stainless clutch line while you have everything apart.

http://www.lethalper...upgrade-p-35199

[SSGT500]

I wasn't aware of the upgraded clutch line.  It looks like a good idea.

[travesty31]

Dear all,

  Thanks for your welcome and for your input.  To answer the first question, I have 60000 miles on the car...I bought it with a l little more than 51000 of January last year.  If I could get Ford to do it, I would, and I did contact them via email, but the lady told me that it was a TSB not a recall, but I can go to a Ford dealership and have them do the work and take confidence that the parts and labor would be warranted for 12000/12 mos...blah, blah, blah.   I figured since it is on me to fix, then I want to get the best and most reliable my money can get, and I want to do the job that Ford should have done in the first place, because they dropped the ball with these cars from what I have been reading on this forum and other forums dedicated to the GT500.  I am glad that I didn't pay full sticker for this car like some other people did, and I really feel for those people, because if one is going to pay $50-60000 for a vehicle, then I believe there should be a certain expecatation of quality in that particular vehicle.  I don't think Lamborghini or Ferrari or Aston Martin or Rolls Royce has to release a TSB  on their vehicles, so why should we?
I am leaning towards the Mcleod RXT system, but I just want to make sure that it will be a great set-up and something that will give me more wear than a year.  I contacted a Mustang shop in up the road from where I live.  The shop is in Baton Rouge, and the gentleman told me that the SPEC +3 clutch would be better than the Mcleod RXT because he had a negative experience with one of the clutch plates exploding on the car of a customer he installed it on.  I would like you guys take on this....I am new to the whole manual transmission world, but I would think with a clutch kit that expensive it would do that.  Also, he wanted to charge me 2500 to install the SPEC +3 single disc clutch system in my car which would include parts and labor....I kind of wanted to go with the RXT because it is dual disc and since the car came with a dual disc clutch, I figured I would stay with that set up...I have been checking out the SPEC Twin Street P-Trim clutch too, so if you guys can give me some feedback on which one, then that would be great.  I am, however, leaning towards the RXT, because there is SO MUCH support and information from Mcleod on their products, and I just got an invoice sent to me via email from different Mustang shop in Baton Rouge, and that gentleman said the RXT would be the way to go.  I will talk with him and see what he says, but again guys whatever you suggest, I would appreciate the info.  Thanks and God bless!!!!

[robertlane]

at Shelby, we use Spec. and have experienced minimal failures. In fact, where others clutches have failed, the Specs. have not.  More here:

http://www.shelbysto...tegory-s/44.htm

[travesty31]

Dear Mr. Robert L.

    I first and foremost want to thank you for you response, and I am honored sir that you, a representative of Shelby, found time to answer me of all people, and I am extremely thankful.  Your recommendation makes me comfortable with going with the SPEC clutch.  I got an estimate/ invoice yesterday from a dealer in Baton Rouge, LA and he said he could install the SPEC Twin Street Clutch P-Trim for a little more than 1900...parts and labor included, and I believe that when I get the money together, I will go that route, since the SPEC clutch kit comes with pretty much everything I would need right out of the box.  Thanks very much sir, and I look forward to one day going over to Las Vegas to get my 08 GT500 Super Snaked, if the Lord says the same. Also, one last question, would you suggest the SPEC +3 clutch or the SPEC Twin Street P-Trim clutch?  My car is has a JLT CAI, it's tuned, and it has 3.73 gears and a Corsa Exhaust. ..I am leaning towards the Twin Street, again, because it comes with the clutch discs, pressure plate, flywheel, and some other things I read that I would need, and I know at some point I may add a little more horsepower to the car.  I also figure that the SPEC Twin Street P-Trim clutch may yield itself a little more durable, and also it is dual disc just like the car comes with dual disc clutch plates stock....any feedback you could give would be appreciated.  Thanks and God bless sir!!!!

[Grabber]

I was also doing some research on the Spec clutch. all raved about it here...but on other sites I heard about problems. I also was hearing the rave reviews on the Mcloed Clutch. Below is a post that I copy and pasted from the GT500.com site by BJ who works for VMP (one of our site vendors).

Hey guys- here's the deal on the McLeod for our cars:

First and foremost. Much lighter than stock. Just as, if not more, progressive on engagement. Smooth as silk. No rattles, no metallic clanging, no grabbing. I've beaten mine pretty hard and it's just amazing.

TheY have a part number as a "kit" (clutch and FW) and it's a fortune. But here are the part numbers you need-
6923-07 RXT 26 spline twin disc clutch $1366 list
463408 Heavy steel flywheel $411 list (aluminum/light is $600)

You can get both, if you shop around, for less than $1200.

Whether it's a heavy or light flywheel is up to you. Conventional wisdom says light clutches if you don't have a lot of torque and need to spool up quicker. Think: Subaru WRX vs your car. The Sub needs to spool to get the turbo(s) cooking. You don't. Plus you have more than enough torque to spool things as quickly as you'll ever need to.

There are two very specific benefits to the heavy one. First of all, in traffic, the inertia produced by the heavier FW keeps things moving and rotating longer (light ones spool DOWN more quickly, too) so there's less messing with throttle and it's much smoother around town. For a similar reason, it's more beneficial in drag racing. You don't want to dissapate energy between shifts. You want the inertia to work for you!! Thus heavy=less up and down....steadier power. That's overstating it a bit, but how it works.
........if you want McLeod, shoot me an email and I can point you in the right direction. We don't sell clutches.

Hope this helps.

bj

[rsfdiver]

Dealer replaced mine with the RXT and before the 500 mile break in I noticed that some thing was hanging up the clutch petal on the way up near the fully depressed position.
I thought it was the floor mat catching it some how. Now at 800 miles the hang up is more near the point of full engagement. Anyone know what would cause this?

[BadTony]

I ended up going with the RXT. However, I was recently speaking with the guys down at All Ford & Blue Oval about changing the 'slave cylinder' with the change of the clutch? what does this mean? Is there a recommended part# Ford racing, McLeod, or other?
Can someone speak to this? What are your thoughts?

[frazierfreud]

Need to use ford oem slave cylinder. It is recommended to change this with a new clutch no matter how few miles are on your current clutch. Van at revanracing.com sells them.

[dbackg]

Sorry to hear your dilemma.

Please keep us posted on your solution.

[fearsno1]

CHANGE THE SLAVE CYLINDER WITH THE CLUTCH NO MATTER HOW MANY MILES IS ON IT!!!!!!!!!!

[Lennart]

Hi
I changed my clutch for a Mcleod (1300 us)and it worked well however after some 500 miles it smells lamellas when driving in town or rew the engine when pedal is down, so I am not so happy anylonger, do not know what to do...

I also purchased a Borla x pipe and silencer from shelby, but this is only giving a lot of resonance inside the car and on top of this poor fit over axle so when cold it is against one part of chassie and when warm (expanded ) it goes against an other, and for sure you ask Shelby for advises, but they only sell and some people there seems to have no idea if they sell milk of what, they only have learned to direct us to this site..

[VNMOUS1]

Guys,

Whether it's a RXT, SPEC or a BFD , they shouldn't "smell" when you're driving around town.....they shouldn't "hang"....they should and WILL operate normally when set up properly!

My RXT is significantly lighter than stock (pedal pressure), is completely progressive and exhibits zero bad habits like those stated above.  BUT, when I had a local speed shop install it (shame on me for trying to save some time), they screwed it up.  They didn't set it up so it would have the proper air gap between the fingers and the disc (proper air gap is 180-220/1000ths of an inch).  The symptoms were:

Difficulty shifting in general.
When coming to a stop, I could depress the clutch pedal yet the shifter was difficult to get out of the current gear and pop into neutral.
It was impossible to get it into 1st while rolling- I had to bring it to a complete stop.

The shop said they'd installed hundreds of them (and according to McLeod that was true).  They insisted that it was set up and acting properly.

I had them remove and reinstall with the same results.

I called McLeod and discussed it with them and they suggested I double check the gap and assure that the discs could, in fact, free-wheel as they should.

An afternoon at SRK1959's shop and about 4 hours of time resulted in a perfect clutch.

No, the original installers had never set the air gap up properly.
(By the way, I didn't use a new slave, but certainly should have just because everything else was new)

There was noticable wear on the pad faces where they had been dragging on the flywheel.  There were noticable 'hot spots' on the flywheel (McLeod heavy steel btw).

We gave the flywheel surface the Brillo-treatment and polished it up a bit so we could really get a peek at any warping (none).  I buffed away the little breaks and cracks on the clutch surfaces.  They had literally been so hot from dragging that they were cracked and sloughing off material!

Put it all back together, making sure the discs could freewheel.  Used some McLeod-supplied shims between the floater and the flywheel to assure that we could get the airgap set perfectly.  FWIW, the RXT isn't SUPPOSED to need shims when the factory slave and their flywheel is used.  BUT, you still need to check the airgap.  There will always be variances in anything mass produced.  If you can't get the gap right, you'll need to make adjustments so you can (shimming).  This is a very rare occurance.

Finally, two other installation "goofs" that cause issues:

1.  Many folks upgrade their hydraulic lines to stainless when doing the install.  There have been occurances where there has been a tiny air leak in the fitting and results in air in the system.  I've only seen this a couple of times, but it happens.

2.  Not using a vacuum system to bleed it.  You can pump the pedal all you want and most of the time it works, but it's possible to screw the seals when you do this because they're about dry at the start.  Use a pump and be done with it.

Hope this helps.  As I said, it matters not which clutch you choose....it matters a ton when it comes to proper setup.

bj

[SVTboy98]

Wish I had seen this before I installed my RXT...lol.  Fortunately, mine has been perfect from the start despite me not setting the gaps.  I guess I was lucky to get one that was within spec.  I love how smoothly this clutch operates and the lack of rattle.  I had a SPEC clutch on another car, and the chatter was really annoying.

[Moncho]

bj,

Thanks for that insight on the RXT install!  Some folks can certainly test your patience.

Cheers,
Ray

[thale622]

travesty31,

This same exact thing happened to me last night for the first time! Same exact symptoms. I was in 6th, running 75 mph just cruising, went to get over, and it sounds like I'm revving! Did you go with the McLeod clutch kit? What have you settled on. I need help! Any response would be good. It's a 2007 Shelby GT500 Performance White, down at my mechanic now. I'm not even going to mess with a Ford Dealer. Already called SVT this morning, they said it was a waste of time to call them. What now? I definitely don't want an OEM clutch. I want aftermarket. But will shifting gears become stiff all the time? Even when joy driving? What about taking off at red lights? Will it be a 2k revv to get moving? PLEASE HELP ANY AND ALL!! Thanks!

thale622

[SVTboy98]

The Mcleod RXT is better in every way than stock.  It's a lighter pedal (although I would prefer it heavier, most people like it light, and I have gotten used to it), it engages much smoother, and it holds a lot better.  You will not be disappointed.  I would print this out and hand it to him, so you can verify all of bj's recommendations.

[Reaper69ZA]

Hi guys,

I have recently encountered the same clutch problem on my 2007 Shelby. I have contacted Ford but they are asking ridiculous prices to change the clutch.

I have decided to seek outside assistance but I would like to know which clutch to purchase. I looked at a link that was posted somewhere in this forum about the Shelby Store but I'm still unsure which of those clutches to choose.

Can anyone provide some advice and guidance. The car is fairly stock except for a K&N Air Filter, half (rear) Borla exhaust system and a little bit of tuning with a Diablo tuner.

This is the link: http://www.shelbysto...tegory-s/44.htm

Thank you...