12 replies to this topic

[jacks1071]

I hate to start another widened wheel thread but I am at a loss here.

Can someone who's done this on a 2011 car please tell me how you made it work.

I'm running a 3mm spacer and have the tyre touching the chassis upon suspension compression on driveways etc.

If I space the wheel out much more its going to be hitting the lip on the guard.

I'm only interested to hear if you've done this on a 2011 as it would seem there is something that changed after 2010 in the wheel well department.

[jacks1071]

Anyone?

[11Snake]

jacks1071, on 10 January 2012 - 10:40 PM, said:

I hate to start another widened wheel thread but I am at a loss here.

Can someone who's done this on a 2011 car please tell me how you made it work.

I'm running a 3mm spacer and have the tyre touching the chassis upon suspension compression on driveways etc.

If I space the wheel out much more its going to be hitting the lip on the guard.

I'm only interested to hear if you've done this on a 2011 as it would seem there is something that changed after 2010 in the wheel well department.

My 2011 SS passenger side tire only lightly contacts the loose fitting, sound deadning insulation in the wheel well on my steep drive way as i go in on a 45 degree angle. My SS has the eibach susp. upgrade with 11.75 widened alcoas with 335/30/20's with spacers as well. I believe earlier cars have sprayed on sound deadning insulation that some SS owners had to scrape down. I thought about putting 3M double sided sticky tape to hold insulation tight to wheel well in the Spring? Driver side never touches and looks like it sticks out slightly more than other side, even though SAM installed adj. pan hard with upper and lower control arms, etc. I wouldn't space wheels out anymore for fear of fender contact. Haven't had any contact issues while driving.

[supersnake94]

You can also get rid of the bump stop bracket to fit the wider wheels.

[11Snake]

supersnake94, on 14 January 2012 - 03:02 PM, said:

You can also get rid of the bump stop bracket to fit the wider wheels.

Never had to as the bump stop brackets were not an issue as the widen rim would only rest on them when the car was on a lift. Otherwise during all driving conditions including suspension compression in my driveway there is no contact with bump stop brackets.

[jacks1071]

11Snake, on 13 January 2012 - 09:02 PM, said:

My 2011 SS passenger side tire only lightly contacts the loose fitting, sound deadning insulation in the wheel well on my steep drive way as i go in on a 45 degree angle. My SS has the eibach susp. upgrade with 11.75 widened alcoas with 335/30/20's with spacers as well. I believe earlier cars have sprayed on sound deadning insulation that some SS owners had to scrape down. I thought about putting 3M double sided sticky tape to hold insulation tight to wheel well in the Spring? Driver side never touches and looks like it sticks out slightly more than other side, even though SAM installed adj. pan hard with upper and lower control arms, etc. I wouldn't space wheels out anymore for fear of fender contact. Haven't had any contact issues while driving.

Thanks for the reply - that is slightly encouraging. We had enough rubbing to stall the car going up a driveway at the mechanic's to discuss the issue.

We also have a wheel out one side more than the other although the diff is centered correctly (Griggs setup with Watts link etc) so we are so far unsure why it isn't also centred up with the body. You'd never notice it with the standard wheels. Interestingly the wheel rubbing the most, is the one that appears to be sticking out the furtherest!

Have you thought of putting an odd sized spacer on one side to even them up?

Have you ever used your car at the track? I'm guessing the rubbing issue could become serious it if was driven hard on a track (which we plan to do).

Any amount of rubbing is not acceptable.

[11Snake]

jacks1071, on 15 January 2012 - 07:31 AM, said:

Thanks for the reply - that is slightly encouraging. We had enough rubbing to stall the car going up a driveway at the mechanic's to discuss the issue.

We also have a wheel out one side more than the other although the diff is centered correctly (Griggs setup with Watts link etc) so we are so far unsure why it isn't also centred up with the body. You'd never notice it with the standard wheels. Interestingly the wheel rubbing the most, is the one that appears to be sticking out the furtherest!

Have you thought of putting an odd sized spacer on one side to even them up?

Have you ever used your car at the track? I'm guessing the rubbing issue could become serious it if was driven hard on a track (which we plan to do).

Any amount of rubbing is not acceptable.

I have thought of taking 1 spacer out and adding it to the other spacer on the side that barely rubs. I don't track the car as there aren't any local tracks, but I have drove it very aggressively on the street without any rub. I'm wondering if my SS Eibach suspension upgrade is stiffer than your set up and being adjustable (Shelby adjusted it) just happens to make the tires clear better? Can you adjust your suspension up a little? My suspension is quite stiff with little suspension travel. I'm also wondering if you went to a 325 width as mentioned by Robert M in the " widened wheel thread " could be a last alternative with the 11.75" rims to work for you? I agree any rubbing is unacceptable and will pursue farther in the Spring (April) and will post here of my findings. I'm interested in your progress and feel free to bounce any ideas off me.

[jacks1071]

11Snake, on 15 January 2012 - 12:12 PM, said:

I have thought of taking 1 spacer out and adding it to the other spacer on the side that barely rubs. I don't track the car as there aren't any local tracks, but I have drove it very aggressively on the street without any rub. I'm wondering if my SS Eibach suspension upgrade is stiffer than your set up and being adjustable (Shelby adjusted it) just happens to make the tires clear better? Can you adjust your suspension up a little? My suspension is quite stiff with little suspension travel. I'm also wondering if you went to a 325 width as mentioned by Robert M in the " widened wheel thread " could be a last alternative with the 11.75" rims to work for you? I agree any rubbing is unacceptable and will pursue farther in the Spring (April) and will post here of my findings. I'm interested in your progress and feel free to bounce any ideas off me.

Not as yet because as I mention, the side rubbing the most is actually the side that is also sticking outside the guard the most...

I think these wheels are just too big, I'm yet to find anyone who can tell me that they have them fitting 100% without any rubbing. A few people have told me they fit, then later they've come back after they've found them rubbing.

I'm prepared to consider a mini-tub but also yet to find anyone who's done that either - well at least anyone who can supply photos to support their claim. As far as I'm concerned if you can't provide photos, it doesn't exist.

I definitely wouldn't have purchased the 335's if I knew they were so much trouble. Problem is, I have 3 sets of them with Rubber down under in Australia so havn't them not work is throwing away a lot of $$ in rubber alone.

[breoland]

sone guy here has used 325/30/20 dunlops with no issues at all 850 a tire

[fordcobra420]

I have the widened Super Snake Alcoa polished wheels with 305's, no rub, but do hit my bumb stops alot. The car does trac a little bit with just that width. I would only go wider to hit the drag strip, with different wheels.

[jacks1071]

Does anyone know if someone has done a Mini tub on one of these cars? A pictorial would be great.

[SGT/SC#0471]

Well if you are going to tub it why not get in there with a body hammer and just dent in the point that it rubs at? We used to use a baseball bat to bend the lip on the quarter panels and many people still roll the outside lip on the wheel opening flat from the inside. Eastwood in the US sells a pretty nifty tool to do that now.

[jacks1071]

SGT/SC#0471, on 22 February 2012 - 07:56 AM, said:

Well if you are going to tub it why not get in there with a body hammer and just dent in the point that it rubs at? We used to use a baseball bat to bend the lip on the quarter panels and many people still roll the outside lip on the wheel opening flat from the inside. Eastwood in the US sells a pretty nifty tool to do that now.

This won't give me enough clearance - I have rub driving steady, whats going to happen when I take it to the race track and start going around corners fast? I'll have a blown tyre in no-time.

It's looking like I will have to accept a more narrow tyre.