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#181 OFFLINE   verlyn12

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 07:28 AM

I like fast rather than burnout-with 7800 mi on the "12 have not noticed any shifting issues-yet anyway.

#182 OFFLINE   12kyshelby

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 11:25 AM

Just to add my 2 cents to this discussion, my 2012 has the 1-2 shift grind but is most noticed when the car is cold. I just don't try any fast shifts with it till warmed up. I think a lot of people have this problem but don't speak up. It's easier to just live with the problem instead of letting the local Ford dealers "practice"...uh I mean troubleshoot the transmission repair. Scares me to death just thinking about it!
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#183 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 11:35 AM

Just to add my 2 cents to this discussion, my 2012 has the 1-2 shift grind but is most noticed when the car is cold. I just don't try any fast shifts with it till warmed up.


It is a PERFORMANCE Transmission. It WILL grind when quickly shifting when cold.

You can cure this real easily. Put very thin fluid (such as ATF) in it. Then when it's warm/hot, the oil will be too thin and it will shift like crap hot.

99% of your driving will be when the car is HOT so which would you rather have? A car that is difficult to shift (without grind) when HOT, or when COLD?

When mine is cold, I shift it completely different than when it's hot. Once in a great while I forget and quick shift it when cold and get a *hint* of grind.

*Not* shifting into 2nd (lock out) is a whole different story. That indicates to me, 2nd gear syncro ring problems.


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#184 OFFLINE   judgeman6970

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Posted 12 March 2013 - 02:33 PM

Just to add my 2 cents to this discussion, my 2012 has the 1-2 shift grind but is most noticed when the car is cold. I just don't try any fast shifts with it till warmed up. I think a lot of people have this problem but don't speak up. It's easier to just live with the problem instead of letting the local Ford dealers "practice"...uh I mean troubleshoot the transmission repair. Scares me to death just thinking about it!

I agree. Easier to live with it than let Ford mess with my baby. And to others here, This is NOT a cold/hot, bad driver/good driver issue. Besides myself, a good friend of mine(big time collector/musclecar guy) who owns no less than 6 cars at a time, consisting of Vipers, Vettes(Z06, ZR1, etc), Shelbys & Ford GT's, is so unhappy with the 1-2 "issue" in his '13, he's almost ready to sell it & make it his last GT500. Of course I wont be parting with my Shelbys anytime soon!!*_*
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#185 OFFLINE   Boss Hoss 540

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Posted 13 March 2013 - 01:16 PM

It is a PERFORMANCE Transmission. It WILL grind when quickly shifting when cold.

You can cure this real easily. Put very thin fluid (such as ATF) in it. Then when it's warm/hot, the oil will be too thin and it will shift like crap hot.

99% of your driving will be when the car is HOT so which would you rather have? A car that is difficult to shift (without grind) when HOT, or when COLD?

When mine is cold, I shift it completely different than when it's hot. Once in a great while I forget and quick shift it when cold and get a *hint* of grind.

*Not* shifting into 2nd (lock out) is a whole different story. That indicates to me, 2nd gear syncro ring problems.


Phill


Sorry Phil--WRONG!!! Mine is getting a new trans assy right now. Do not know why Ford is doing that but they are LOL... I put in the Amsoil after the 3rd week I had this car and it still would GRIND... Shifted much easier but the grind was still there.

Better to be lucky and good and to the folks who have this issue do not let Fan Boys tell you it is normal LOL!!!! Mine will be out of the shop in a couple of weeks when the trans assy gets here and the NEXT DAY it is going down the street to be traded for a real car!! The Ford tranny issues are STILL going on and I have had enough. Thing handles like a pig anyway and if it will not shift that makes it even worse.

Edited by Boss Hoss 540, 13 March 2013 - 01:19 PM.


#186 OFFLINE   IngotSilverSnake

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 05:15 AM

Sorry Phil--WRONG!!! Mine is getting a new trans assy right now. Do not know why Ford is doing that but they are LOL... I put in the Amsoil after the 3rd week I had this car and it still would GRIND... Shifted much easier but the grind was still there.

Better to be lucky and good and to the folks who have this issue do not let Fan Boys tell you it is normal LOL!!!! Mine will be out of the shop in a couple of weeks when the trans assy gets here and the NEXT DAY it is going down the street to be traded for a real car!! The Ford tranny issues are STILL going on and I have had enough. Thing handles like a pig anyway and if it will not shift that makes it even worse.

I have had my 2012 for a year now and have ZERO problems with the transmission. However, I broke it in carefully as I do all my machines. I also adapted to the characteristics of the machine and did not expect it to adapt to me. My guess is that you are the type of guy that ignores break in instructions and beats the crap out of the car from day one. Maybe that has something to do with your problem. In my view the car handles extremely well for a muscle car. That is what is it is you know -- a muscle car. Hope you enjoy your new "real car." I suspect you will start complaining about it soon enough on other forums. I am glad I won't have to read any more of your posts.

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#187 OFFLINE   Helix

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 10:36 AM

Wow. The lack of intelligence in this topic :shrug:
If you drive your car like an idiot, then of course its going to have a problem. Furthermore, this transmission is under a lot of stress constantly. If there is an issue, then there is an issue. There could be a multitude of contributing factors: anything from Ford design may or may not have flaws, to someone can't drive.

How is there even an argument of "mines fine" vs "mine doesn't work". If that is the case, then the problem is inconsistent. What are people who have the problem going to tell people who don't? "Your just a fan boy lying about the trans. to save Ford's reputation and protect the Shelby name?" or "I need a real car"

Who knows what caused it; maybe the trans isn't perfect, or maybe a few driving lessons should be in the future. The design isn't at fault here without documented proof, and acknowledgment from a valid source saying the trans was flawed from the factory.

There is no argument; there is no right or wrong. If you have a problem, fix it. If everyone (majority) has the same problem, recall it. Don't be a loser and cry about it on a forum saying that the car is junk. Keep it to yourself.
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#188 OFFLINE   Boss Hoss 540

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 11:24 AM

I have had my 2012 for a year now and have ZERO problems with the transmission. However, I broke it in carefully as I do all my machines. I also adapted to the characteristics of the machine and did not expect it to adapt to me. My guess is that you are the type of guy that ignores break in instructions and beats the crap out of the car from day one. Maybe that has something to do with your problem. In my view the car handles extremely well for a muscle car. That is what is it is you know -- a muscle car. Hope you enjoy your new "real car." I suspect you will start complaining about it soon enough on other forums. I am glad I won't have to read any more of your posts.


You silly little man!! The GT500 is one of the lowest hp vehicles I have owned lol. Motorcycle makes a lot more HP than this car. So chew on that awhile and hump someone elses leg ok. This is a well known and documented issued with Ford. Do your research in other places than a dedicated "Fan Boy" forum and then you will see what a fool you look like posting this lol.. Makes me no difference but the Ford does have a problem and they know it so just keep pretending that they don't.

Not the tranny mind you but the spec Ford had them build it to. Parts have been updated BUT three are still a few issues. Researched this to death--mine does it with Amsoil after running 100 miles in 100 degree heat so guess that kills the warming up the transmission idea then.

Edited by Boss Hoss 540, 14 March 2013 - 11:30 AM.


#189 OFFLINE   Helix

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Posted 14 March 2013 - 01:35 PM

You silly little man!! The GT500......

Someone is a little mad lol? You don't have anything better to do than rant online where you can't be seen doing it? Or do you even really own a GT500....lol. Firing back on a car forum like a child. No wonder you screwed your transmission up.

Here's some help for you: delete the Team Shelby link off of your favorites, and go play on another website. -.-

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#190 OFFLINE   IngotSilverSnake

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 04:52 AM

You silly little man!! The GT500 is one of the lowest hp vehicles I have owned lol. Motorcycle makes a lot more HP than this car. So chew on that awhile and hump someone elses leg ok. This is a well known and documented issued with Ford. Do your research in other places than a dedicated "Fan Boy" forum and then you will see what a fool you look like posting this lol.. Makes me no difference but the Ford does have a problem and they know it so just keep pretending that they don't.

Not the tranny mind you but the spec Ford had them build it to. Parts have been updated BUT three are still a few issues. Researched this to death--mine does it with Amsoil after running 100 miles in 100 degree heat so guess that kills the warming up the transmission idea then.

Just the juvenile response I was expecting from you. We all understand what you think about the GT500. You have stated your case. Nobody cares about the HP of the cars you have owned. Nobody cars how much HP your motorcycle has. Now, why don't you just go away and whine somewhere else.

Edited by IngotSilverSnake, 15 March 2013 - 05:05 AM.

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#191 OFFLINE   Boss Hoss 540

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 05:17 AM

Got to love the "Fan Boys" who are will not face facts but so be it. I have had quite a few what one would consider high performance vehicles both 2 and 4 wheeled. If there is a problem then there is a problem---what sets this apart is that Ford knows it and only will do something if pushed very hard. Does not help the "Cobra" brand which is what some people buy. Been thinking about trading it off but now and this is a big if however when the new tranny is installed and the problem is fixed may turn it into a fire breathing high HP monster.

The value of these cars is not good so maybe putting 20k into the engine and drivetrain might be the most cost effective way of having a 800hp monster..

#192 OFFLINE   ViperNC

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 06:45 AM

:slapfight:

 

 

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#193 OFFLINE   knightowl

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 07:37 AM

Wow, a few heated words here lol!

Just to add a little info from my end.....I broke the car in nicely and never spin the wheels aside from the odd chirp I've had, but rubber is expensive enough so I prefer to make it last. I like to tromp on it here and there, but it's my cruiser and I don't race it at the strip either.

I emailed another reputable local Ford SVT dealer this past week, which is a different spot from where I bought my car; I bought mine from another dealer and they were happy to sell the car, but their follow-up and customer care is horrible, so I opted to get in touch with the other dealer.

Within an hour of sending an email with my shift concern to their general email account, I had the service manager on the phone to me! He was asking for my VIN to check it out at his end and wants to get things going once I take it out of storage, hopefully sooner than later. He will draft up an engineering report to document the issue with Ford and see if they come back with a fix / recommendation & also said they will upgrade the fluid to synthetic at Ford's expense!

Fair to say that there's still more to be done here, but I was immediately impressed with the promptness & feedback, concern by this dealer. It's a great start to hopefully getting this resolved and if the customer service here turns out to be what the conversation was about, I will get ALL my future service done here.

Anyway, just a little positive info I wanted to share with everyone and things may be looking up.

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#194 OFFLINE   Cdvision

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Posted 15 March 2013 - 07:47 PM

Let me get this straight.....if you like your car and it has no problem you're a "Fan Boy"????....alrighty then. Lol...then I guess the assclown that buys a car and hates on it must be a "real car" guy. Lol
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#195 OFFLINE   aclass

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 07:06 AM

My 2012 has 9200 miles on it now and I'm starting to experience the issue. Last night I took the car out to play around and 2nd gear was grind/resistent every time. It hadnt been a problem.
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#196 OFFLINE   knightowl

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Posted 16 March 2013 - 08:23 AM

Hey aclass....Sorry to hear that and I know, very frustrating! Try to get on it sooner than later if you can; I'll keep updates coming as to how I make out with my dealer too so hopefully we can all benefit from it.

#197 OFFLINE   Boss Hoss 540

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 04:54 AM

Picked up the car yesterday---and per the invoice: installed a "AR3Z*7003*BC Transmission Asy"

This PN supposedly contains the updated parts that address the grinding issue.. Do not know what the old PN was so take this with a grain of salt.

#198 OFFLINE   Roush GR40

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Posted 19 March 2013 - 04:59 AM

Don't have any grinding issues on my '12...just rubbery, inaccurate shifts. New Barton shifter going in on Friday....will report results back afterwards.

#199 OFFLINE   usgpru27

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 02:18 PM

I have about 100 miles on my MGW so its still breaking in and getting better and better. Amsoil and shifter with clutch fully depressed has eliminated the issue. Much better shifting all around. Still a little stiff when cold but it is bad practice to beat on it till its warm anyway... Very pleased.
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#200 OFFLINE   Roush GR40

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Posted 25 March 2013 - 02:23 PM

Just installed Barton shifter on Friday...WOW...what a difference. Shifts are now precise and accurate. Noise is minimal. This is the way this car should have come from the factory. Look forward to a track test at VIR in May. :wub2:

#201 OFFLINE   patrickshelby

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 12:36 PM

It is a PERFORMANCE Transmission. It WILL grind when quickly shifting when cold.

You can cure this real easily. Put very thin fluid (such as ATF) in it. Then when it's warm/hot, the oil will be too thin and it will shift like crap hot.

99% of your driving will be when the car is HOT so which would you rather have? A car that is difficult to shift (without grind) when HOT, or when COLD?

When mine is cold, I shift it completely different than when it's hot. Once in a great while I forget and quick shift it when cold and get a *hint* of grind.

*Not* shifting into 2nd (lock out) is a whole different story. That indicates to me, 2nd gear syncro ring problems.


Phill


Phill,
Isn't ATF type fluid standard in that transmission?

#202 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 02:23 PM

Phill,
Isn't ATF type fluid standard in that transmission?


Not from what I remember.

I could have it backwards but I seem to remember the trans says "Use Dextron II ATF" on the side of the case but the service manual says otherwise.

We had a thread on this a few months back but I don't know how I'd search it out.

Hoping someone who KNOWS (and isn't relying on a old memory) will chime in and tell us for sure.


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CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~

PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.

#203 OFFLINE   IngotSilverSnake

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Posted 26 March 2013 - 05:07 PM

Phill,
Isn't ATF type fluid standard in that transmission?

Here is what Tremec Nate (Nathan Tovey, Director of Enthusiast Marketing and Tremec told me in response to my questions about TR-6060 Fluid: "As for your question on fluids… For warranty purposes, we recommend sticking with whatever fluid the O.E. vehicle manufacturer specifies. This will help to protect you from issues of ‘deniability’ in the event that you have an issue and seek warranty coverage through your dealer. That said, unless otherwise specified by the customer, TREMEC uses/recommends conventional Dexron III ATF in all TR-6060/Magnum applications. Mobil 1 ATF is also an acceptable substitute in Magnums. And just as an FYI, the Magnum 6-speed is an aftermarket version of the exact same transmission that is in your GT500; utilizing the same materials for its synchronizers."

Edited by IngotSilverSnake, 26 March 2013 - 05:08 PM.

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#204 OFFLINE   ShelbyLee

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Posted 28 March 2013 - 10:56 PM

Since my rebuild to fix the 2nd gear synchro, I have a small rattle or noise that seems to be coming from the driver foot area at low speeds, like the clutch. It may be evident at higher speeds as well but can't be heard due to other noises at that speed. Most notable when driving in the neighborhood streets at speeds less than 20. It wasn't there prior to the rebuild. Any one else have this problem?

Edited by ShelbyLee, 28 March 2013 - 10:57 PM.

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#205 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 29 March 2013 - 07:36 AM

Since my rebuild to fix the 2nd gear synchro, I have a small rattle or noise that seems to be coming from the driver foot area at low speeds, like the clutch. It may be evident at higher speeds as well but can't be heard due to other noises at that speed. Most notable when driving in the neighborhood streets at speeds less than 20. It wasn't there prior to the rebuild. Any one else have this problem?


Check your clutch hydraulic line to see if they routed it so it's hitting the tunnel or if they left it out of, or left a clip off where it goes down from the master cylinder.


Phill
2010 GT500 Coupe
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover


CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Subframe K-member - Tubular Front A-arms - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - KR Style Front Brake Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets - Shelby/BMR Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar tires~

PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Baer Extreme Rear Brakes; Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails, Shelby Alcoa 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake style wheels; NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box, Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock, Raptor shift light, ZEX N2O kit, Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.




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