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RPM and shifting


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#1 OFFLINE   NMAv

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Posted 08 April 2012 - 06:04 PM

A while ago I recall reading about an after market product that keeps the engine RPMs up so when you are racing you do not have to do that toe/heel roll to get the RPMs on the engine up to the transmission.  Or at least that is my recollection. Being as I have big, fat feet the toe/heel process is difficult me and I thought this would be a great mod for my car.  Can someone point me in the correct direction?  Or am I just dreaming?
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Modifications in order of occurance:  Escort 9500ix * Clearbra * Lund Tune * zPod with Areoforce gauges * Hood Lift Supports * 15% IW * J&M LCA * Shelby Watts link * JLT Oil Seperator * Revan H/E * ARH long tube/high flow cats w/H pipe * billet motor mounts * Evo 3 Point Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace * Boss 302 guage cluster * Boss 302 front brake ducts * OEM look Intercooler Reservoir 3x Capacity * HID Guy fog lights * Bosch 72 lb injectors * Driveshaft Co aluminum driveshaft * BMR LCA relocation brackets * Dynomax bullet mufflers * Kenne Bell 3.6 LC with 3.75 pulley * BMR UCA * Tow hook * Trufiber Black Momba hood * C&R radiator * Thump Racing tensioner - 5" KB high flow air intake *  2013 Upper front grille * 2013 splitter * Shelby transmission cooler scoop * Steeda SS brake lines * Shelby K Member support plates * NavTV reverse camera

Waiting to be installed:  bump stop relocation bracket,3 pod gauge cluster - door, Shelby starter button, rear sway bar relocation bracket.
Currently researching:  1.  Brake modifications - Front - Hawk street/performance pads with DBA 4000/5000 slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines. Rear - Eradispeed 14" rotors (Maybe) and Hawk street/performance pads, Reverse camera by NAV TV.


Currently at 803 rwhp/717 torque with KB 3.6 LC, 3.75 inch upper on juiced gas, 15% IW lower and Jun Lund tune.  Ultimate goal: Surpassed

#2 OFFLINE   Boidster

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Posted 12 April 2012 - 02:42 PM

Are you thinking of a WOT Box? Doesn't quite do what you're suggesting, though - it allows you to stay on WOT while shifting.

Are the synchros too slow to keep up when racing, so you need a throttle blip? Curious, since I don't race (yet).
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#3 OFFLINE   NMAv

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 07:47 PM

I'm thinking when you downshift coming into a corner and you need to roll your foot from the brake to the gas peddle to get the engine RPMs up, then release the clutch and engine the trasnmission smoothly.  The stock pedals dn't make this very easy for someone with fat feet like myself. The WOT sorta sounds like it but it seems like it could be harsh on your transmission and such.  But this is a great starting point forfurther research, at least I have some key search terms.
~ NMAv


2011 Shelby GT500 with SVTPP (Kona Blue)

Modifications in order of occurance:  Escort 9500ix * Clearbra * Lund Tune * zPod with Areoforce gauges * Hood Lift Supports * 15% IW * J&M LCA * Shelby Watts link * JLT Oil Seperator * Revan H/E * ARH long tube/high flow cats w/H pipe * billet motor mounts * Evo 3 Point Frame Rail & Torque Box Brace * Boss 302 guage cluster * Boss 302 front brake ducts * OEM look Intercooler Reservoir 3x Capacity * HID Guy fog lights * Bosch 72 lb injectors * Driveshaft Co aluminum driveshaft * BMR LCA relocation brackets * Dynomax bullet mufflers * Kenne Bell 3.6 LC with 3.75 pulley * BMR UCA * Tow hook * Trufiber Black Momba hood * C&R radiator * Thump Racing tensioner - 5" KB high flow air intake *  2013 Upper front grille * 2013 splitter * Shelby transmission cooler scoop * Steeda SS brake lines * Shelby K Member support plates * NavTV reverse camera

Waiting to be installed:  bump stop relocation bracket,3 pod gauge cluster - door, Shelby starter button, rear sway bar relocation bracket.
Currently researching:  1.  Brake modifications - Front - Hawk street/performance pads with DBA 4000/5000 slotted rotors, Goodridge SS brake lines. Rear - Eradispeed 14" rotors (Maybe) and Hawk street/performance pads, Reverse camera by NAV TV.


Currently at 803 rwhp/717 torque with KB 3.6 LC, 3.75 inch upper on juiced gas, 15% IW lower and Jun Lund tune.  Ultimate goal: Surpassed

#4 OFFLINE   Torched10

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 06:18 AM

ive been to several road racing training schools and they always advise letting the rpms drop in a corner---actually shift into neutral for a micr second to allow them to drop. The reason is that if you downshift and have high rpms its possible to cause the rear end to twist out of control with all the torque and the car turning.If your in a straghtaway, keeping the rpms up is fine,like in drag racing,but not on a turn
formerly known as bobstripower

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#5 OFFLINE   Boidster

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 08:19 PM

View PostNMAv, on 13 April 2012 - 07:47 PM, said:

I'm thinking when you downshift coming into a corner and you need to roll your foot from the brake to the gas peddle to get the engine RPMs up, then release the clutch and engine the trasnmission smoothly.

Ah, gotcha. Definitely not the WOT box. I don't race (yet?), but I had read about the WOT box in a couple of drag-racing threads. It's been long enough since I regularly drove a clutch that I get crappy downshifts on the highway. :lol: And then there's the 1-2 grind...>sigh<
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#6 OFFLINE   Torched10

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 05:50 AM

Yes--in drag racing you want to maintain high rpms..Hers a true story i saw with my own eyes--- a rich guy i know had just bought a new Ferrari--we were at open track day at Road Atlanta.One of his buddies (not me) begged him to let him drive--he gave in. The guy goes flying out of the pits,w/o any traing, goes into the first turn which is a 90 degree sloped up turn, downshifts to 1st gear--the clutch grabs, the rear end swings all the way left crashes the car into the wall  -- brand new Ferrari.  My friend says to me thats it for the ferrari, you cant sell a repaired Ferrari thats been wrecked on a track--the insurance company wouldnt pay since it was a racing event--the car was sold as is for scrap to the dealer
formerly known as bobstripower

2010 Torch Red  Shelby vert 540hp ordered 2/15,VIN--3/15,  window sticker 4/24,Est build 5/19,actual 6/3,shipped 6/11,at dealer(MM) 6/17,picked up 6/18 1of24 red with silver verts 1 of 8 w/o GPS
2007 Burgundy Vette vert  400hp
2011 Caddy Escalade EXT 405hp white, 2008 Cadillac STS-V 469hp,black/black 1 of 400 made
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#7 OFFLINE   twobjshelbys

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:37 AM

View PostTorched10, on 14 April 2012 - 06:18 AM, said:

The reason is that if you downshift and have high rpms its possible to cause the rear end to twist out of control with all the torque and the car turning.If your in a straghtaway, keeping the rpms up is fine,like in drag racing,but not on a turn

The idea is to match the speed and RPM of the old gear to the RPM of the new gear. If you don't match then indeed the car will attempt to find the speed of the new gear.  The result is the rear end slows down to the tire speed of the previous RPM and gear and the engine tries to slow down to match.  The result is what is called compression braking.   The result is called trailing throttle oversteer, or simply put, exchanging the rear end and front end at high speed.  Results is much pucker.

We spent a 1/2 day or so practicing heel-toe downshifting at Bondurant.  It was fairly difficult giving the spacing and offset in the Corvette.  It was a piece of cake on the Formula Mazdas given the pedal arrangement.  It was impossible given the pedal height difference between the throttle and brake on the Cobra.   The Ford GT is close to the Formula cars.  In most cars you have to keep your big toe side half of the foot on the brake and roll your ankle to the throttle.  Note also that you do not have to pricely match the RPM to the new gear - anything over where it would be is OK since the engine braking will bring it to the correct place to begin accelerating again.
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#8 OFFLINE   twobjshelbys

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Posted 15 April 2012 - 07:42 AM

View PostTorched10, on 15 April 2012 - 05:50 AM, said:

The guy goes flying out of the pits,w/o any traing, goes into the first turn which is a 90 degree sloped up turn, downshifts to 1st gear--the clutch grabs, the rear end swings all the way left crashes the car into the wall  -- brand new Ferrari.

Yep, that's what happens if you don't speed match.

I've seen that some of the newer cars (I think the GTR) actually has it built into the paddle shifting program.
Cheers,
Tony

Motto: You can have fun going fast. ... but ... You don't have to go fast to have fun.

Current:
2006 Ford GT Heritage Edition, 650 RWHP, 600 FtLb torque.

Former:
CSX4005LA - Shelby Continuation Series Cobra. The most fun you can legally have, sitting in a chair, in public.
CSM08SGT2228 - Barrett Jackson Special Edition Convertible, 5-speed, Kenne Bell S/C. Carroll Shelby Children's Foundation Gift at Barrett-Jackson 2009 Scottsdale
CSM08SGT2247 - Barrett Jackson Special Edition Convertible, Automatic. Kenne Bell S/C installed. WHOOT!
Simple Mods: Electrochromic mirror with compass/temp/HomeLink, Ford HD Radio with iPod, lower billet grill insert, sequential tail lights.

#9 OFFLINE   Boidster

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 07:32 AM

View Posttwobjshelbys, on 15 April 2012 - 07:37 AM, said:

The idea is to match the speed and RPM of the old gear to the RPM of the new gear. If you don't match then indeed the car will attempt to find the speed of the new gear.  The result is the rear end slows down to the tire speed of the previous RPM and gear and the engine tries to slow down to match.

I think you mean the engine tries to speed up to match. You're describing normal downshift deceleration, but in a racing context, right? So if I'm moving along at 4,000 RPM in 3rd and downshift to 2nd, the speed of the car might require 7,000 RPM in 2nd, but the engine is only doing 4,000 so if I let the clutch out the car is going to try to slow down to the proper speed for 4,000 RPM, and the engine is going to try to speed up to 7,000 RPM, resulting in significant engine braking (and quite sudden, if you just dump the clutch.)

I can see how that would be...exciting...in a racing context, while cornering. Like pulling the e-brake. I did not realize, though, that when racing the car should remain in gear essentially throughout the turn. Makes sense, for quick acceleration on exit; I just hadn't really thought it through. So when braking at the entrance of the turn, you're using that time to get into the correct gear - RPM matched - to be ready for the exit, correct?
I'm not sure my feet would have the proper coordination. Maybe somebody would lend me their Ferrari for my first try. :peelout:
- 2012 GT500 in Performance White, stripe delete, SVTPP, nav
- 1967 289 Vinyl-Top Coupe in Sauterne Gold, 50K miles, factory exterior, light performance upgrades
- Trust me you don't care about my other cars, past or present




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