Any good install threads for American racing headers w/o cats 1 7/8 on a 2008 GT500? Pics would be great! Lesson learned and "watch out for..." is also welcome.
Thanks
1
Install thread for ARH
Started by
SLAMiAM
, Jul 01 2012 01:57 PM
headers arh american racing install
4 replies to this topic
#1 OFFLINE
SLAMiAM
-
- Members
-
- 22 posts
- Joined 26-August 10
Come and Get Them
- Gender:Male
- Region:Southern Plains
- Vehicle:GT500
Posted 01 July 2012 - 01:57 PM
Molon Labe
#2 OFFLINE
72-Mustang
-
- Members
-
- 8 posts
- Joined 25-September 09
Team Shelby New Member
- Gender:Male
- Region:Pacific Coast
- Vehicle:GT500
Posted 02 July 2012 - 06:52 PM
to add on to SLAMiAM's post has anyone installed the 2" ARH headers and can you remove the transmission to access the clutch with ANY of there headers?
Engine:
Whipple mono blade TB
2.6" Metco Pulley
C&L Cold Air Kit
Metco Belt Tensioner
Thump RRR racing Tensioner
Innovators West 15% over Harmonic Balancer
Jon Lund Tune
Cooling:
AFCO Dual Fan Heat Exchanger
C&R Radiator
JLT brake cooling kit
Drivetrain:
FRPP Shifter
FRPP Black Shift Knob and Handle
Drive shaft shop 3.5" Aluminum 1-Piece Driveshaft
Steeda Driveshaft Safety Loop
Exhaust:
Bassani Long tubes, off-road mid pipes, home made H-pipe, 18" glass packs
Styling:
Shelby GT500 SuperSnake Quarter Window Scoops
Shelby Quarter Widow Interior Trim (Block Off Plate)
Shelby CS6 Side Scoops
Trufiber venom II hood with twist lock hood pins
25% Lumar tint on all windows
Suspension:
Steeda adjustable upper control arm and bracket
Eibach pro springs
Wheels:
Stock GT500 Wheels F:18x9.5 & R:18x9.5
Tires:
F:Goodyear F1 supercar 255.45.18 & R: Nitto 555r 305.35.zr18
Dyno
Stock = 441 rwhp & 454 rwtq
Now 687 rwhp & 700 rwtq on C-16
Whipple mono blade TB
2.6" Metco Pulley
C&L Cold Air Kit
Metco Belt Tensioner
Thump RRR racing Tensioner
Innovators West 15% over Harmonic Balancer
Jon Lund Tune
Cooling:
AFCO Dual Fan Heat Exchanger
C&R Radiator
JLT brake cooling kit
Drivetrain:
FRPP Shifter
FRPP Black Shift Knob and Handle
Drive shaft shop 3.5" Aluminum 1-Piece Driveshaft
Steeda Driveshaft Safety Loop
Exhaust:
Bassani Long tubes, off-road mid pipes, home made H-pipe, 18" glass packs
Styling:
Shelby GT500 SuperSnake Quarter Window Scoops
Shelby Quarter Widow Interior Trim (Block Off Plate)
Shelby CS6 Side Scoops
Trufiber venom II hood with twist lock hood pins
25% Lumar tint on all windows
Suspension:
Steeda adjustable upper control arm and bracket
Eibach pro springs
Wheels:
Stock GT500 Wheels F:18x9.5 & R:18x9.5
Tires:
F:Goodyear F1 supercar 255.45.18 & R: Nitto 555r 305.35.zr18
Dyno
Stock = 441 rwhp & 454 rwtq
Now 687 rwhp & 700 rwtq on C-16
#3 OFFLINE
zombeast
-
- Members
-
- 281 posts
- Joined 16-May 09
Team Shelby New Member
Posted 04 July 2012 - 03:28 AM
I did a couple of 1 7/8" ARH installs. First one was on a friends car. During the install the stock motor mounts were swapped out for some billet lowering mounts to fit the KB blower. This made access to a few bolt/studs a bit easier. The k-member was also carefully lowered a tad. You may want to make some marks before doing this, so when you tighten it back up, you will lessen the need for a wheel alignment. Not 100% sure, but I think we also loosened or removed the trans crossmember. Because of the lowering mounts, a couple of primaries had to be dimpled on the driver's side to clear the steering shaft. I also think we removed the starter, but again, not 100% sure.
Other tips:
You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.
You will be reusing the factory gaskets.
Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.
Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.
Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!
On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.
I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.
Good Luck!
Other tips:
You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.
You will be reusing the factory gaskets.
Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.
Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.
Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!
On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.
I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.
Good Luck!
'09 GT500 Coupe
Key Mods:
VMP TVS, M&H 345/35/18 Drag Radials, Weld 18" x 12" Wheels, Zombeast Rear Bumpstop Relocation Brackets (stilll available)
Tuned by Kevin Hand of Wicked Motorsports at Sansone Ford
SAE 750 rwhp, 751 rwtq
Best E.T to date with 18" drag radials:
60' 1.799
1/8 6.876 @ 108.91
1/4 10.481 @ 138.58
Vid: http://youtu.be/SMoNZSQ1oB8
Key Mods:
VMP TVS, M&H 345/35/18 Drag Radials, Weld 18" x 12" Wheels, Zombeast Rear Bumpstop Relocation Brackets (stilll available)
Tuned by Kevin Hand of Wicked Motorsports at Sansone Ford
SAE 750 rwhp, 751 rwtq
Best E.T to date with 18" drag radials:
60' 1.799
1/8 6.876 @ 108.91
1/4 10.481 @ 138.58
Vid: http://youtu.be/SMoNZSQ1oB8
#4 OFFLINE
hydro
-
- Members
-
- 475 posts
- Joined 13-July 07
hydro
- Gender:Male
- Interests:Flying Airplanes,Drag racing,making money.Inventor,Received a US Patent on a Deepreach Compound Joint Plier sold on all Snapon trucks,Designed the L&M TB and Plenum seeing how much power they make over all other available Throttle Bodies and Plenums is very gratifying.My car with a new engine was recently Dyno'ed with the tires slipping/spinning on the rollers it put down 733rwhp & 658tq.Now going to sell new designed surgical instruments based off my U.S Patent that will revolutionize and improve surgical operative procedures.
- Vehicle:GT500
Posted 20 November 2012 - 01:38 PM
zombeast, on 04 July 2012 - 03:28 AM, said:
I did a couple of 1 7/8" ARH installs. First one was on a friends car. During the install the stock motor mounts were swapped out for some billet lowering mounts to fit the KB blower. This made access to a few bolt/studs a bit easier. The k-member was also carefully lowered a tad. You may want to make some marks before doing this, so when you tighten it back up, you will lessen the need for a wheel alignment. Not 100% sure, but I think we also loosened or removed the trans crossmember. Because of the lowering mounts, a couple of primaries had to be dimpled on the driver's side to clear the steering shaft. I also think we removed the starter, but again, not 100% sure.
Other tips:
You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.
You will be reusing the factory gaskets.
Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.
Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.
Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!
On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.
I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.
Good Luck!
Other tips:
You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.
You will be reusing the factory gaskets.
Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.
Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.
Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!
On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.
I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.
Good Luck!
#5 OFFLINE
hydro
-
- Members
-
- 475 posts
- Joined 13-July 07
hydro
- Gender:Male
- Interests:Flying Airplanes,Drag racing,making money.Inventor,Received a US Patent on a Deepreach Compound Joint Plier sold on all Snapon trucks,Designed the L&M TB and Plenum seeing how much power they make over all other available Throttle Bodies and Plenums is very gratifying.My car with a new engine was recently Dyno'ed with the tires slipping/spinning on the rollers it put down 733rwhp & 658tq.Now going to sell new designed surgical instruments based off my U.S Patent that will revolutionize and improve surgical operative procedures.
- Vehicle:GT500
Posted 20 November 2012 - 01:39 PM
zombeast, on 04 July 2012 - 03:28 AM, said:
I did a couple of 1 7/8" ARH installs. First one was on a friends car. During the install the stock motor mounts were swapped out for some billet lowering mounts to fit the KB blower. This made access to a few bolt/studs a bit easier. The k-member was also carefully lowered a tad. You may want to make some marks before doing this, so when you tighten it back up, you will lessen the need for a wheel alignment. Not 100% sure, but I think we also loosened or removed the trans crossmember. Because of the lowering mounts, a couple of primaries had to be dimpled on the driver's side to clear the steering shaft. I also think we removed the starter, but again, not 100% sure.
Other tips:
You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.
You will be reusing the factory gaskets.
Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.
Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.
Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!
On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.
I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.
Good Luck!
Other tips:
You should remove the battery and tray for access to the EGR valve connection on the passenger side.
You will be reusing the factory gaskets.
Don't get hung up on trying to use all the ARH supplied header bolts. You'll need to reuse some of the factory studs/nuts in some areas.
Be careful/patient not to cross thread or strip the holes in the aluminum head.
Don't drink, take your time, and be prepared for a little cursing. I did my car by myself, and I think I invented a few curse words. LOL!
On my car, I swapped out the K-member for an engine lowering tubular unit which made things alot easier. Since I knew I would need an alignment, I pushed the k-member to the passenger side for a little extra clearance with the steering shaft. I only had to dimple the #3 primary tube.
I had my car up on a lift at my tuner's shop, and he said he thought the trans could come out without touching the headers. IMO, I think one side may have to be loosened up just a little.
Good Luck!
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: headers, arh, american, racing, install
Team Shelby Community →
Team Shelby Forum →
Is Shelby Ever Going To Race??Started by A10ACN , 28 Apr 2013  shelby, racing
|
|
|
||
Team Shelby Community →
Shelby Performance Parts →
Shelby Racing Jackets!Started by Jer , 11 Mar 2013 shelby, racing, jacket
|
|
|
||
Team Shelby Community →
Team Shelby: Automotive General Discussion →
You may not want to watch this....Started by ilmor , 07 Mar 2013 classic, mustang, race, racing
|
|
|
||
Shelby GT, Shelby GT-H Forum →
Shelby GT, GT-H Modifications and Tech. →
Shelby Racing Valve Covers Back In Stock!Started by Jer , 20 Oct 2012 racing, valve, cover
|
|
|
||
Team Shelby Community →
Shelby Performance Parts →
Shelby Racing Valve Covers! In Stock!Started by Jer , 20 Oct 2012 racing, valve, covers
|
|
|
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
