100 replies to this topic

[Grabber]

Your welcome guys. I just wanted you all to know exactly what to buy and what to pay for it.  This 2010 factory set up is not expensive to pay for.

[Grabber]

I edited post #1 to change the Slave cylinder part number because Ford has changed this part number. For some reason they change the first letter of the part from A to D

The new part number is:

CYLINDER ASY - CLUTCH SLAVE - $165.33
Part #: DR3Z-7A508-A (was part# AR3Z7A508A)

[Grabber]

Make sure your Ford Tech uses the 2010 Clutch and flywheel installation instructions when installing the 2010 clutch on a 2007 - 2009 GT500. The torque spec's are different. The TSB tells them to use the 2010 procedure, but it does not hurt to remind them.

Here is the 2010 clutch install procedure
 2010 GT500 Clutch installation manual.pdf   1.15MB   52 downloads

[Grabber]

...and here is the 2010 Flywheel procedure with revised torque spec's:
 2010 GT500 Flywheel installation manual.pdf   295.51K   36 downloads

[KiMO Racing]

Greatest gift one can give another is knowledge.  My sincerest thanks!

[vapor08GT500]

Great thread, Rob. For those not going with high HP, the 10 clutch is the way to go, no chatter, no hang up, and no embarrassment when driving!! The late 08-09 set-up and early TSB seriously makes those that know how to drive manual transmissions well, stall the cars constantly and shudder the car to no end...Royal Purple too, is the way to go...better than anything else out there for these transmissions.

Alex

[KiMO Racing]

^{I have one question, I went to the TASCA PARTS website to order everything and noticed the slave cylinder is still being recognized under the old "A" part number.  Will this automatically convert over to the new "D" number, or should I call them to ensure the new number is what's shipped?}

[Grabber]

KiMO Racing, on 12 August 2012 - 05:26 AM, said:

^{I have one question, I went to the TASCA PARTS website to order everything and noticed the slave cylinder is still being recognized under the old "A" part number.  Will this automatically convert over to the new "D" number, or should I call them to ensure the new number is what's shipped?}

When I ordered mine from Tasca I ordered the A number part number on the Slave and they converted it over and sent me the D one.  I placed my order over the phone and that might be the better way to go. That way you can get all the questions answered and he will give you shipping costs.

If he asks you for your vin # and year of car...make sure you also tell him you are ordering the parts for the TSB and that they are the 2010 parts or he will send you the wrong part.

Edited by Grabber, 12 August 2012 - 06:54 AM.

[Grabber]

vapor08GT500, on 12 August 2012 - 02:42 AM, said:

Great thread, Rob. For those not going with high HP, the 10 clutch is the way to go, no chatter, no hang up, and no embarrassment when driving!! The late 08-09 set-up and early TSB seriously makes those that know how to drive manual transmissions well, stall the cars constantly and shudder the car to no end...Royal Purple too, is the way to go...better than anything else out there for these transmissions.

Alex

Alex, I got so used to compensating for the chatter of that old clutch by over revving and mastering the feather technique. Those days are over now that I have this new 2010 Ford clutch.  Besides that I have not read about a single failure yet and it has been going in the cars for over 2 years now and also look at all the 2011 and 2012 cars that have this same clutch and no problems !Royal Purple is great fluid and makes the tranny feel so much smoother.  I could tell right away that it made a difference.  For those of you doing the clutch, you should bring your Ford Tech 4 quarts of Royal Purple Syncromash synthetic Manual transmission fluid. It is very easy for him to put in when the tranny is out or you can do it yourself when the tranny is in. It takes 3.65 Quarts of the fluid. Attached is the PDF file on how to change it. There is a drain plug and a fill plug. Don' forget to use the thread sealant when you put the plugs back.  2007 GT500 Transmission drain & fill procedure.pdf   224.61K   31 downloads

[KiMO Racing]

Can't thank you enough.  Will do first thing in the a.m.  Go USA!!!!

[OCD]

Grabber, on 24 July 2012 - 06:26 PM, said:

CYLINDER ASY - CLUTCH SLAVE - $165.33
Part #: DR3Z-7A508-A   (was part# AR3Z7A508A)
Pack Qty: 1   
  
BOLT - $2.01 each x 6 = $12.06
Part #: N808969S100
Pack Qty: 6 bolts needed


TUBE (hydrolic clutch line) - $53.23
Part #: AR3Z7A512A
Pack Qty: 1
  
  
BOLT - HEX.HEAD - $2.45 x 8 = $19.60
Part #: F6ZZ6379AA
Pack Qty:  8 bolts needed
  

Do I need to replace those parts too when I put a Mcleod RXT in my 09?

[vapor08GT500]

Grabber, on 12 August 2012 - 07:09 AM, said:

Alex, I got so used to compensating for the chatter of that old clutch by over revving and mastering the feather technique. Those days are over now that I have this new 2010 Ford clutch.  Besides that I have not read about a single failure yet and it has been going in the cars for over 2 years now and also look at all the 2011 and 2012 cars that have this same clutch and no problems !Royal Purple is great fluid and makes the tranny feel so much smoother.  I could tell right away that it made a difference.  For those of you doing the clutch, you should bring your Ford Tech 4 quarts of Royal Purple Syncromash synthetic Manual transmission fluid. It is very easy for him to put in when the tranny is out or you can do it yourself when the tranny is in. It takes 3.65 Quarts of the fluid. Attached is the PDF file on how to change it. There is a drain plug and a fill plug. Don' forget to use the thread sealant when you put the plugs back. 2007 GT500 Transmission drain & fill procedure.pdf

I know...we used to have to drive our cars a whole different way!! My 10 clutch went out on the dyno after the Kenne Bell. Have had 5 other failures on them, but all on cars making huge power. My rule of thumb is the 10 clutch is perfect for cars that will never get anything further than intake, tune, and pulley. Those that drag race, road race, or have aftermarket superchargers need to go with something stronger.

The Royal Purple is the best stuff for our trannys. Much smoother shifting, better protecting, and eliminates the notchiness when cold.

Alex

[Grabber]

OCD, on 12 August 2012 - 10:01 AM, said:

Do I need to replace those parts too when I put a Mcleod RXT in my 09?

Yes...but Ford makes 2 Slave units. The one I have listed is much shorter than the original factory one because the 2010 Clutch is a much thicker unit. You will need to check and see which Slave cylinder the RXT would require. I'm not sure. The bolts are required on the Ford set up and may come with your new set up. As for the hydrolic line, the new one has a bigger inside diameter and is required for the 2010 Slave unit. Sorry I'm not sure what the RXT unit requires. Tommy Gun had that unit installed in his car...so you should ask him. Also BJ at VMP would know, he has that clutch.

[judgeman6970]

Thanks for all this great info, Grabber. Not sure if you ever mentioned this in another thread, but I was curious what warranty Ford covers this TSB work under, the 3/36 bumper-to-bumper, or the 5/60 powertrain?? I have a '09(about 3.5 years old with 4k miles) & was wondering if I could still get this work covered under my warranty?? BTW, I know how smooth the new clutch works, since I have it in my 2011 & I love it!!

[OCD]

Grabber, on 12 August 2012 - 01:24 PM, said:

Yes...but Ford makes 2 Slave units. The one I have listed is much shorter than the original factory one because the 2010 Clutch is a much thicker unit. You will need to check and see which Slave cylinder the RXT would require. I'm not sure. The bolts are required on the Ford set up and may come with your new set up. As for the hydrolic line, the new one has a bigger inside diameter and is required for the 2010 Slave unit. Sorry I'm not sure what the RXT unit requires. Tommy Gun had that unit installed in his car...so you should ask him. Also BJ at VMP would know, he has that clutch.

Thanks Grabby, I know the Mcloud uses the 07-09 slave cylinder...  So I guess the line won't be needed!!

[Grabber]

judgeman6970, on 12 August 2012 - 03:32 PM, said:

Thanks for all this great info, Grabber. Not sure if you ever mentioned this in another thread, but I was curious what warranty Ford covers this TSB work under, the 3/36 bumper-to-bumper, or the 5/60 powertrain?? I have a '09(about 3.5 years old with 4k miles) & was wondering if I could still get this work covered under my warranty?? BTW, I know how smooth the new clutch works, since I have it in my 2011 & I love it!!

This is where things get kinda of complicated. The clutch is a wear item and not covered after 3 years or 36K. In fact some dealers say that they only cover the clutch for 12K miles. The flywheel is covered for 5 years / 60K miles. The flywheel is a big part of the root cause of the chatter because it does not dissipate the heat generated from the metallic clutch and it warps the flywheel. This causes chatter and premature clutch failure. If you go to the dealer armed with that information you have a good chance that they will cover it. Maybe not. It seems to be a crap shoot.

At least the repair is under $1,500 bucks and not over $5K like some dealers allude to.

[KiMO Racing]

First Grabber, thanks for the info, it was exactly how you described.  I placed the order for "ALL" of the clutch components from Tasca Ford.  Let me state clearly; these guys are polite and very knowledgeable.  Second, I just fell victim to the "clutch" controversy which in my opinion is a black mark on Ford and the Ford tradition of "Quality Job 1".  I'm not a ricky racer.  Most of my travels are highway commuting miles with plenty of troopers around.  At a nice forgiving age of 50 plus years, I enjoy the ride more than the throttle which I know some of you out there are saying what a waste of car.  I'm not out to impress anyone, and my peers and I share similar interests, owning quite of few muscle collectors out there.  It's unfortunate that my clutch decided to ends it's life at 19,000 miles.  I bought the extended warranty pushing well past the 3/36 coverage like good old guys do when they have extra money to protect their assets; more importantly so as not to waste time.  After all, time is money.  I took it to the dealer and told them point blank, clutch is slipping.  After a 15 minute interrogation about clutch anatomy 101, they stated it had to be diagnosed with a computer to be sure.  I've driven a stick for over 30 years, from Duece and 1/2 trucks in the War to 5 speed Dodge Omnis, so I know when a clutch is going bad and this was no exception.  Still didn't matter, they soaked me for a computer diagonistic test to trouble shoot a physical problem a test drive would have concluded.  I'm still scratching my head over this one.  I was told the cost of the test would be covered under the warranty as part of the clutch change.  Turns out it was not covered because Ford considers this to be a wear item and neither the original warranty, nor the extended warranty, will cover it.  So I'm out on two counts, no clutch repair and $99.13 for a computer test.  If I knew upfront, time of sale, this particular clutch in question was only good for 19 or 20 thousand miles, I would have bought a 3rd extended wear item warranty offered by dealerships only at the time of sale.  This type of warranty covers wear items like clutches, brakes, and even oil changes.  You'd have to follow a strict maintenance schedule bringing it in when they say to in order to keep it valid, but they do it all.  Truth is, most reasonable folks don't walk into a dealerships expecting a new car to wear out so fast, especially, a GT500 which by design symbolizes Ford excellence, pride, and power.  If they did, by connecting the dots, e.g. Ford = high wear parts = excessive repair cost, they buy elsewhere and skip the whole warranty game.  I'm disappointed, but not surprised.

Edited by KiMO Racing, 13 August 2012 - 08:13 AM.

[Grabber]

You will like the new clutch and it's driveability. Sorry you have to pay for it. I had to pay too. At least it is not an arm and a leg to get done. Who is doing the work ?

[KiMO Racing]

^{I have a friend who runs a shop.  He's local and over 50 years in the auto business.  He has a detailed eye for quality repair like your tech.  Needless to say, he's up their in years.  I too use to wrench on cars as a hobby from my normal day to day job as an aircraft Master Tech.  Our fighters flew 2 and 3 times the speed of sound which equaled 2 and 3 times more the work.  I'm retired now, both in the aviation business and as backyard mechanic.  I'm not really too concerned in having this done right away.  I'm more focused on finding the right guy who is physically capable without intruding too much.  Time is all I have now.  I'll ask my buddy Jeff first (if his back will agree first) and take it from there.}

Edited by KiMO Racing, 13 August 2012 - 12:53 PM.

[Grabber]

Make sure you follow the torque spec's and sequence on the flywheel and clutch to t T.

Edited by Grabber, 13 August 2012 - 07:11 PM.