30 replies to this topic

[Albino500]

Pump it up to 10-15 PSI . I still find that in order to get the last bit of air - start up the car and do one final pump and crack the bleeder screw . JMO and experience .

[2010KonaBlueGT]

 54First, on 05 August 2012 - 09:28 AM, said:

There's a post somewhere on TS from Phill Pollard ( 2010KonaBlueGT) where he uses gravity. If I were to buy a unit now, I'd go for one with a hand pump pressure resevoir. I've seen them but can't recall any brands.

Steve

Mity-Vac (Vacuum pump)

Not sure of the spelling but they come with a brake bleeder reservoir.

I have one but like you said, it's easier to just open the bleeder valve and let gravity do the work. And no bubbles form from low pressure (vacuum).


Phill

[TurboGT]

I've always heard of gravity being the best way & that's what was used successfully before vacuum & pressure bleeders came along.  In the 25 or so years I've been doing my own brakes, it seems like about half the time there is a hidden high spot somewhere in the course of the brake line where air bubbles accumulate.  Maybe I'm not using gravity correctly or I'm not patient or I'm a sucker for fancy tools - LOL!  More likely, I'm just paranoid about air being in the lines.  I'm starting the brake job tomorrow, so hopefully will be able to provide some info on this thing.

[frazierfreud]

I used my Motive Power Bleeder today to flush out my old brake fluid and replace with dot 4 fluid. This is the first time I have ever blead brakes. I found it to be pretty easy and quick. The blue dot 4 fluid was very easy to see as it squeezed out the old amber colored dot 3.

[TurboGT]

 MJN, on 21 April 2013 - 03:40 AM, said:

I have been wondering this same thing and looking like I am going to have to pick up the Motive Bleeder.  How much pressure do you guys usally pump it up to?

I got to do my rear brakes today & used the Motive bleeder so here are a couple of tips:
There should be 2 rubber washers that come with the bleeder to seal the connection between the bleeder cap & MC.  You will need the thicker of the two to get a good seal.
Don't pump the tank to more than 15 psi.  Any more is unnecessary & will cause fluid to spew out the cap.
Make sure to put enough fluid in the tank to keep the pickup hose covered in the bottom of the tank.
Plan the job so you don't finish when it's dark outside (don't ask me how many times I've done this!)
Different color brake fluid is easier to see when bleeding the brakes - so is bleeding them when it's still light outside!
Don't expect a whole lot of air even if you change the lines as I did.  It only took a couple of cracks of the bleeder to purge the air.
Lastly - if changing over to new braided lines, make sure to double and triple check the settings on your torque wrench before tightening the banjo bolt to the caliper.  DO NOT overtighten them or else you'll be waiting on a replacement banjo bolt!

[Albino500]

So you're learning that's a GOOD THING ! Maybe we'll get you a miner's hat with a light on it .  LOL.... Thanks for sharing .

[MJN]

Thanks for the tips Turbo.  Sounds like you know all to well now lol.

[TurboGT]

 Albino500, on 21 April 2013 - 06:46 AM, said:

Pump it up to 10-15 PSI . I still find that in order to get the last bit of air - start up the car and do one final pump and crack the bleeder screw . JMO and experience .

I finally got my replacement banjo bolts & was able to finish up the front lines yesterday so wanted to add a couple final notes.
The install was pretty uneventful but make sure the mounting clip where the line attaches to the strut is oriented properly or else the line can rub the sway bar strut.  This may seem obvious, but the clip can be oriented in 3 different ways & if you remove the old line and return later to install the new line I could see it would be easy to mount it wrong.
As far as I know, the OEM clips that connect the brake line to the ABS line and keep them separate cannot be transferred to the new lines.  I used HD zip ties to fab a "clip" that would preserve the factory routing and still be able to keep the two lines separated so they won't chafe.
In closing, Albino is right about needing to pump the brakes once or twice and crack each bleeder to get the full pedal pressure after the initial bleeding & flushing is complete.  The power bleeder made it easy to flush the system and get 99% of the air out - but I didn't get full brake pedal back until a final brake pedal assisted bleed.
All in all, not a difficult job, just time consuming.  However, the car stops on a dime now & I'm looking forward to some track days.

[Albino500]

Good Write up TurboGT, Nothing feels better than a solid brake pedal (well maybe somethings but I'll stay on topic). next...? Coilovers ...?

[TurboGT]

The very next thing is to get the 3.73 gears put in this week.  Coil overs will follow soon - it's gonna be pretty sweet.  Hoping the rain will stop so I can try out the brakes & gears.
:-)

[fcettner]

Good info Turbo - Thanks.