57 replies to this topic

[Husky44]

Problem is, you can only get oil on one side of the filter media; you can fill the center, but it won't flow through the perimeter holes.  I guess you could let it sit long enough that it might permeate the media and build up on the outside, but I've never had a problem in 35 years starting up with a dry filter.  Several of my cars have filters that mount at an angle or horizontal, so you'd end up wearing oil that you put in the filter.

[Husky44]

Norton, on 09 December 2012 - 12:00 AM, said:

You're welcome!

I admit I didn't pay any attention to "Remove for Oil Service" verbiage when I was under the car, or I'd have probably suffered the same confusion you did.  According to this thread in the SVT Performance forums, the plastic panel is shared among multiple Mustang variants and the 5.0 engine requires removal to access the oil filter.

OK, that makes sense.

[Farmer-Ted]

The plastic plate needs to be removed to change the filter if you have a 5.0 GT.   They just used the same plate.  No need to remove it.

[Snoopy49]

I have always prefilled the oil filters on my cars and trucks, at least on the ones that were mounted vertically with the closed end pointing down.
Just personal preference I guess.

[440sprint]

Just hold in the clutch, hold the gas pedal to the floor, then crank the engine for 10-15 seconds.

Gas pedal to the floor tells the computer to shut off the gas & cranking allows the oil pump to fill the oil filter & to lubricate the entire engine at ~60 rpm instead of 1200 rpm!

Now, start the car as normal.

In general, this method can also be used with modern cars to clear flooded engines & when starting long stored engines.

[IngotSilverSnake]

Snoopy49, on 09 December 2012 - 12:29 AM, said:

I have always prefilled the oil filters on my cars and trucks, at least on the ones that were mounted vertically with the closed end pointing down.
Just personal preference I guess.

+1.  This is a smart thing to do if you can.  I have taken many automotive maintenance classes over the years.  Almost every instructor I have had recommends this practice if possible.  It shortens the amount of time to build to full oil pressure.  Most dealers don't do this because it takes extra time.

Even if the filter is at an angle (as it is on some vehicles) you can still add some oil before installation.  Some engine manufacturers specifically recommend this process in owner's manuals.  For example, HD recommend this practice for the Twin Cam V-Twin engines (I used to sell HD bikes).  Interestingly, the Twin Cam engine filters install sideways, so you can't get much oil in there but they recommend this process anyway.

You should add some oil to the filter and let it sit for a minute.  It will slowly flow through the media and then you can add some more.  I particularly like the filter set up on my 2012 Shelby.  Since it installs straight up, you can fill the filter up almost to the top before installation.

[Squirrel 007]

Maybe I am wrong here as I don't know the real reason for pre-filling an oil filter. The filter must fill in seconds when the engine is started and with the fact that all the parts of the engine have an oil film on them I can't fathom any friction damage being done to the engine in that few seconds. I would assume friction damage to be near impossible at that point. The piston squirters are for cooling and the pistons can't get hot enough in those seconds to require oil immediately. So what would be the purpose. It sounds like trying to kill a fly with a Laser Guided 2000 pound bomb. A little over kill? Or is there something based in fact that I am missing here? Can anyone enlighten me as why to do this procedure? Thanks!

[mullens]

Bottom line it isn't a bad idea but really not necessary with the little oil these filters hold.  8.5 qts compared to the few ounces in the filter really isn't going to make much of a difference.  If you were filling a huge diesel filter I could see it but it really isn't worth the hassle for me. JMHO

[bergenfelter]

There is enough oil film left on the internal engine components after the oil change you will not damage anything.  The oil pump has significant volumetric capabilities it will pressurize the entire oil system in 1-2 seconds - including an empty oil filter.

[MJN]

I alway prefill also when I can,  its all in the details and the little things that help.

[IngotSilverSnake]

Here is a photo of my assistant helping me to change the oil.  She says always pre-fill your oil filter.  So, are you going to believe these naysayers or my assistant?

Attached Files

•  OilChangeHelper.jpg   12.8K   39 downloads

Edited by IngotSilverSnake, 09 December 2012 - 05:32 PM.

[bergenfelter]

IngotSilverSnake, on 09 December 2012 - 05:20 PM, said:

Here is a photo of my assistant helping me to change the oil.  She says always pre-fill your oil filter.  So, are you going to believe these naysayers or my assistant?

You definitely needed to remove the "remove for oil service" panel.  Hope nothing gets stuck.

[Snoopy49]

bergenfelter, on 09 December 2012 - 06:01 PM, said:

You definitely needed to remove the "remove for oil service" panel.  Hope nothing gets stuck.

I thought that only happens to dogs and shopping carts?

Edited by Snoopy49, 09 December 2012 - 09:21 PM.

[BCPD199]

MJN, on 09 December 2012 - 12:07 PM, said:

I alway prefill also when I can,  its all in the details and the little things that help.

Ever since back in the day when I had a couple of Turbo Gran Nationals, I always pre-filled the oil filters.  Same with the Detroit Diesels in my boat.  It's probably not as important on our cars; but, on the turbo's, they run dry for a second or two before the oil pressure comes up.  If memory serves me right, the Buick's turbo oil feed came right after the filter.  And as fast as a turbo spins, you definitely don't want them spinning dry.  Habit now; but, I prefill the filter on everything I own.  Except my Mercury 4 stroke outboard, the damn thing is installed upside down!  Good luck pre-filling that!

[IngotSilverSnake]

Gentlemen:  Since you all probably don't believe my assistant knows much about filters, consider this when deciding whether or not to pre-fill your oil filters.  The purpose of the anti-drain back valves that are on most oil filters today is as follows:

"Anti-Drainback Valve. Some oil filter mountings may allow oil to drain out of the filter through the oil pump when the engine is stopped. When the engine is next started, oil must refill the filter before full oil pressure reaches the engine. The anti-drainback valve, included in the filter when required, prevents oil from draining out of the filter. This anti-drainback valve is actually a rubber flap that covers the inside of the inlet holes of the filter. When the oil pump starts pumping oil, the pressure will unseat the flap. The purpose of this valve is to keep the oil filter filed at all times, so when the engine is started there will be an almost instantaneous supply of oil to the engine."  (Quote is from this link:  http://www.theautoch...ut/filters.html

Another quote from the same article:  "Note On Dry Starts: If a vehicle has not been operated for several days or after oil and filter change, some oil may have drained from the filter in spite of the special valves. This is why it is always a good idea to start the engine slowly, letting it run on idle for 30-60 seconds so the lubrication system will be fully charged with oil before a heavy load is placed on the engine."

The filter on late model Shelby's is installed vertically so, the drain back valve makes no difference after the filter is filled.  However, the point is that the device is designed to provide an immediate oil supply to the engine to prevent pre-mature wear of some components.  I recall an example of the difference it makes on an old Blazer I had years ago.  I was getting some engine noise (clatter) at start up that went away after a few seconds.  I switched from the standard filter (no anti-drain back valve) to a newer filter with an anti-drain back valve at my dealerships suggestion.  Cured the problem instantly.  No clatter on start up.

Edited by IngotSilverSnake, 10 December 2012 - 12:45 PM.

[mullens]

IngotSilverSnake, on 09 December 2012 - 05:20 PM, said:

Here is a photo of my assistant helping me to change the oil.  She says always pre-fill your oil filter.  So, are you going to believe these naysayers or my assistant?

Looks like your assistant needs higher ramps.

[IngotSilverSnake]

mullens, on 10 December 2012 - 12:50 PM, said:

Looks like your assistant needs higher ramps.

Yeah.  Well at least she can hand me tools when I need them.

[Snoopy49]

IngotSilverSnake
Do the filters for our car even have a "Anti-Drainback Valve"?

Edited by Snoopy49, 10 December 2012 - 02:24 PM.

[IngotSilverSnake]

Snoopy49, on 10 December 2012 - 02:23 PM, said:

IngotSilverSnake
Do the filters for our car even have a "Anti-Drainback Valve"?

Yes -- If you buy the Motorcraft FL-820S Filter specified by Ford for our cars (See description at this link:  http://www.autozone....entifier=140249)  Most aftermarket filters also have them.  However, since the filters install vertically, the only time you have to worry about starting on a dry filter is after an oil and filter change.  You can fix that problem by pre-filling the oil filter before installation.

Edited by IngotSilverSnake, 10 December 2012 - 02:57 PM.

[Snoopy49]

Thanks for the link and the post.

Edited by Snoopy49, 11 December 2012 - 12:12 AM.