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Supercharger Recommendations


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#21 OFFLINE   brandyspaw

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 05:20 PM

View Post2007_Shelby_GT, on 05 November 2012 - 07:47 AM, said:

I failed to mention that with my Edelbrock E-Force install, I also put in a GT500 dual-fuel pump set up just to make sure fuel delivery stayed consistent.  Also, immediately following the supercharger install, my stock clutch began failing so I replaced it with a McLeod RST dual disk.

There are incidental items that go along with a supercharger install - the fuel pump for instance, but beyond that, don't forget to install an oil "catch can" between the PCV an intake as there is a marked increase in crankcase ventilation!  Consider extra instrumentation as well to monitor oil, fuel, and boost pressures.  (I included the Shelby center gauge pod in my install.)  With the E-Force, you will need to replace the stock strut brace with one from a Bullitt/V6 Mustang as the stock FRPP will not clear the supercharger.

There's always stuff you don't think of when doing this sort of mod!

Sam

Thanks Sam,  those are some things I never thought of since I had the mentality of installing a "kit" but don't think of those extras.  All told
between the driveline, clutch, fuel pump, catch can, gauges, bigger tires/wheels, etc  it really starts to add to the price of the supercharger. I might need to rethink doing this whole supercharger experience with my limited future plan for this car.
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#22 OFFLINE   johnrehder

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 06:13 PM

I started by just adding the Paxton SL1200 kit. 444 RWHP and I've not had to upgrade the clutch, drive shaft etc. Kit came with the Kenne Bell boost-a-pump. I haven't added guages yet, can't make up my mind on them. I don't drag race but I do road race. Paxton is perfect for that because the engine stays in the higher RPM range where the Paxton makes great power. Start with a basic supercharger then add goodies as funds come along. You don't have to get the whole enchilada at first. I did buy an oil catch can soon after I installed the supercharger.

View Postbrandyspaw, on 05 November 2012 - 05:20 PM, said:

Thanks Sam,  those are some things I never thought of since I had the mentality of installing a "kit" but don't think of those extras.  All told
between the driveline, clutch, fuel pump, catch can, gauges, bigger tires/wheels, etc  it really starts to add to the price of the supercharger. I might need to rethink doing this whole supercharger experience with my limited future plan for this car.

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#23 OFFLINE   jmn444

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 06:32 PM

View Postcarnut12, on 05 November 2012 - 05:00 PM, said:

I am curious what you feel is causing the loss in 3rd and 4th???  Why wouldn't it be lost across the board?  Could it be you are just used to the power?  Just curious, I did not realize over time that power was lost, I have seen some cars after break-in actually gain power.

I think he's saying the clutch is slipping causing the power loss at the wheels.
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#24 OFFLINE   jmn444

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Posted 05 November 2012 - 06:35 PM

View Postbrandyspaw, on 05 November 2012 - 05:20 PM, said:

Thanks Sam,  those are some things I never thought of since I had the mentality of installing a "kit" but don't think of those extras.  All told
between the driveline, clutch, fuel pump, catch can, gauges, bigger tires/wheels, etc  it really starts to add to the price of the supercharger. I might need to rethink doing this whole supercharger experience with my limited future plan for this car.

Clutch is really the only thing you may not have a choice on there, the rest is optional.  I have about 17k miles on the stock clutch with 519 at the wheels... they do last a while sometimes....
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519 RWHP / 484 TQ  Taking bets on when the bottom end will die....

#25 OFFLINE   2007_Shelby_GT

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 06:46 AM

View Postjmn444, on 05 November 2012 - 06:35 PM, said:

Clutch is really the only thing you may not have a choice on there, the rest is optional.  I have about 17k miles on the stock clutch with 519 at the wheels... they do last a while sometimes....

You are correct - some people have really good luck with the clutch, I think a lot depends on the mileage of your SGT when you do the install and, of course, your driving habits!  I had around 30k on the car when I installed the S/C - the clutch began slipping about a month or so later in 4th and 5th gear when I would accelerate to pass slower vehicles.  It was still functional, but rather than wait for a failure, (and concerned about drive train power loss), I went ahead and replaced it.

The McLeod RST dual-disk has been a good clutch, it's action is as light or lighter than stock.  Only one noticeable exception - there has been reports of the clutch "dragging" (not fully releasing), and the same has occurred with mine (minimally) since day one.  It hasn't been a problem, but I'm certain the life of the clutch will be shortened.  If you do replace the clutch, make sure to replace the stock clutch line with a stainless steel version AND replace the slave cylinder at the same time!!

As with most things, replace the critical bits before they break or at the slightest hint of failure!

Sam

Edited by 2007_Shelby_GT, 06 November 2012 - 06:46 AM.

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#26 OFFLINE   AstroDan

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Posted 06 November 2012 - 12:22 PM

View Postcarnut12, on 05 November 2012 - 05:00 PM, said:

I am curious what you feel is causing the loss in 3rd and 4th???  Why wouldn't it be lost across the board?  Could it be you are just used to the power?  Just curious, I did not realize over time that power was lost, I have seen some cars after break-in actually gain power.
Loss of power from the clutch not holding when in the power band for extended time. In 1st and 2nd gear, even hard, the time it takes to run out of RPm is too short to really notice. (Maybe a little late in 2nd) Once into 3rd, and especially 4th, it takes long enough at the "full 500rwtq" to hit the limiter that I can SOTP feel a loss of WHP.
My car had about 7500 miles when I got the SC, now it has 18,000+. I started feeling the slippage around a couple/three thousand SC miles... Like I said before, Idrive her pretty hard. I virtually always hit triple digits on every ride, unless its around town etc. I never speed in town and only when it is safe. These things are so fast, a freeway onramp is easily 100-120mph, if you want!
When I do the internals, I'll install the clutch. :)
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#27 OFFLINE   SHO6GTH

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 11:48 PM

Hi Guys, i have a 2008 Shelby GT [#344] here in the UK. I took it to Roush UK and had them fit their M90 Supercharger conversion. The whole conversion was very comprehensive and looks OE, but i included an uprated belt tensioner, because of recommendations from other forum users, thank you for that. With the original cold air kit in place, the power is rated at 450hp and 400lbs ft. This version has given me perfect hot or cold driveability/starting/usage and hopefully does not put excessive strain on the motor. Performance is outstanding, especially above 3250rpm, bearing in mind we are very heavily policed here in the UK for speeding.........if you are caught at any speed over 100, it bye-bye license.
Clutch is Factory stock unit, which seems okay at present, but i am careful not to overload it with heavy starts.

#28 OFFLINE   peter301

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 05:52 AM

I have the Whipple 550 set up with the stock clutch and drive shaft. The previous owner had it tune to 91 octane and left it at a tame 440 HP to the wheels, which has proven more than enough seeing you really have to feather it in order to keep those wheels grounded to the ground. That being said I am going to have it retuned to 93 octane and the upgraded pulley soon, but that really is about all you need to piss-off most any other car on the street, so.....

Enjoy the car!

PS, I have had the car for about 10 months and drive it several days out of every week. I also did not buy it to drive in the right hand lane, so it does get use and I have had not 1 issue, so I would lean towards the whipple..

Edited by peter301, 08 December 2012 - 10:50 PM.


#29 OFFLINE   TheKurgan

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Posted 08 December 2012 - 06:31 AM

Lots of good replies here, but I don't see anyone asking what you want to do with the car.   If you want to spin wheels on the street or drag race then I would say roots/twin screw blowers are the way to go.  For the track, a centri blower is the way to go imo.
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#30 OFFLINE   mbcortese

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Posted 23 December 2012 - 09:01 AM

I had TASCA Mod Shop do my GT/SC kit install this past summer, they had the car three days.  It included Polished 475HP Whipple Kit (Automatic Transmission), Gauge Pod, Rotors, Pads, SS Brake Lines, and GT/SC Side Stripes.  I also had them put in a Shelby one piece driveshaft, it was between that and cooling system upgrade.  Dennis at TASCA talked to me about what I was going to do with the car,  and suggested I go with the driveshaft.  Unbelievable the response out of this car when you get into it now, I thought it ran good before.  I planned on keeping it all along, so the investment in my 07 Shelby GT didn't really bother me, if I was going to get rid of it, I would have felt different.   Regardless I hated to see the snow last week now it will be parked till May.  If you do it, enjoy it, drive it, if you want to look at something buy a TV.  This car is definitely a fun driver now, and was before the mod.  Good luck which ever way you decide.

Edited by mbcortese, 26 December 2012 - 08:12 PM.

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