174 replies to this topic

[07SGT]

Good luck whatever you decide to do.

[AndyGJ]

If it was Motorcraft oil versus Royal Purple, I'd still change either one if it appears that running too rich could have caused an oil issue...I guess my point was that I just paid to have the oil changed with a quality oil and I hate to waste the money if the risk was relatively minor.

Also, I had never heard of this issue, so I was in unfamiliar territory and was asking mainly for more details and suggestions to help me evaluate how much potential I have of greater contamination than normal.  In the end, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, so once I get back from our short trip, I'll just get the oil changed simply for peace of mind.

Thanks for all the info and the lesson.

Andy.

[07SGT]

Don't think of it as being taught a lesson.  Just think of it as a lot of us on this site have a lot of experience and  we are willing to share so as to help others.  When in doubt change.  I am sure there are others, including yourself, that are willing to help when you can.  That is what it is all about.



I noticed you are very willing to help by apprising others what you have learned about the results of your mods including the UD pulleys, the Steeda tune, and others.  Personally I look forward to seeing the dyno test in the near future.  Keep up the good work.

Thank you!

Edited by 07SGT, 28 February 2013 - 06:32 AM.

[andrewnagle1964]

Well, I finally have an appointment with Pro-Dyno in Fort Mill SC for 10 days from now (Wednesday the 27th)

I will post the dyno graph once I get home, I am sure it will be an all day adventure 8 am appointment with over a 2 drive in front of me.

Going to have 2 tunes a N2O and non N2O, finally bought a SCT tuner so I can swap them at will. Been driving around on a N20 tune for 18 months.

Current performance mods

FRPP Stuff
M-6009-A463 Aluminator Forged Internals 9.8:1 compression ratio
M-9424-463V Intake Manifold
M-6050-463P CNC Heads
M-6550-3V Hot Rod High Lift Cams
M-9926-3V Throttle Body
M-4209-G410 4.10 Gears
M-12405-3V12    0 degree Spark plugs

American Racing    Long Tube Headers 1 3/4” Hi-Flow cats and X pipe

Bosch 39lb Fuel Injectors

Kenne Bell   Boost-a-Pump 40 Amp

PA Performance 6G Alternator 130 AMP Powder Coated White

Triangle Speed Shop Billet Gear Oil Pump
Steeda   Carbon Fiber Intake Elbow
Fore Precision High Flow Fuel Rails Black Billet Aluminum

Edited by andrewnagle1964, 18 March 2013 - 03:27 PM.

[EL SHELBY]

Ooooo! Goody-goody!

I'll guess 370-375hp. Assuming ~12% loss that's ~425-430 at the crank.

Edited by EL SHELBY, 18 March 2013 - 05:15 PM.

[svttim]

Hey guys, I run a 4.6 based engine in my race car, Its NA by rule. The original motor had long tubes, Stage 3 heads, HR cams and FR intake. It made right around 360 at the wheels. I have since went to a 4.6 based 5 liter and she hust got off the dyno this week. It pulled 403 at the wheels. These engines can go a long ways NA. By the way, either engine was very tame at idle. The first engine was sold to a guy who put it in he GT. He could not have been happier.

One thing I have to say. A tuner that can adjust while tuning is a much better choice in IMHO. And that is just my opinion. BTW, both engines would run on 91

[AndyGJ]

svttim, on 18 March 2013 - 05:04 PM, said:

Hey guys, I run a 4.6 based engine in my race car, Its NA by rule. The original motor had long tubes, Stage 3 heads, HR cams and FR intake. It made right around 360 at the wheels. I have since went to a 4.6 based 5 liter and she hust got off the dyno this week. It pulled 403 at the wheels. These engines can go a long ways NA. By the way, either engine was very tame at idle. The first engine was sold to a guy who put it in he GT. He could not have been happier.

One thing I have to say. A tuner that can adjust while tuning is a much better choice in IMHO. And that is just my opinion. BTW, both engines would run on 91

svttim,

One set-up that I was considering (and would like to get input on) would be to add the FRPP Stage 1 Heads and the FRPP Intake.  This may sound crazy (so don't throw me under the bus here), but I was going to leave off the FRPP Hot Rod Cams for now.  If that gets me to 400+ HP on a N/A motor and a tame sounding machine, then I would be happy.  Of course, I'm still going to add the 3.73 gears as well.

I know the HR Cams would really add a lot to it, but I'm just worried about the roughness it would bring to the idle with the Steeda motor mounts.

Any thoughts??

Andy.

[JT93]

AndyGJ, on 18 March 2013 - 06:27 PM, said:

svttim,

One set-up that I was considering (and would like to get input on) would be to add the FRPP Stage 1 Heads and the FRPP Intake.  This may sound crazy (so don't throw me under the bus here), but I was going to leave off the FRPP Hot Rod Cams for now.  If that gets me to 400+ HP on a N/A motor and a tame sounding machine, then I would be happy.  Of course, I'm still going to add the 3.73 gears as well.

I know the HR Cams would really add a lot to it, but I'm just worried about the roughness it would bring to the idle with the Steeda motor mounts.

Any thoughts??

Andy.

I don't think it would be too bad. I thought my car rumbled a lot when I put the cam in, but now I don't even notice it. I'm sure at first it would seem rough and make you unhappy, but a good tune and some time with it would take care of the problem.

[07SGT]

El Shelby, I had my calculator out and I think you are right on.

[EL SHELBY]

I'm very interested in doing the same with my SGT. Just don't have the cash for all of it at once. My plan is to build the foundation before building power.

1. 4:10 Gears, Lwr & Upr Controls, relocation brackets.
2. 110mm Intake, Long/mid length headers (American Racing or Kooks)
3. 62mm Throttlebody (Ford Racing or L&M)
4. Cams (Hotrod or Detroit Rocker)
5. Ford Racing Manifold
6. One piece driveshaft.

Going with gears and headers 1st should mitigate the torque loss from the cams and manifold later.

This is all assuming I don't change my mind and send my SGT to Vegas for an SC.

The SGT will be paid off in ~12 months so things should get exciting shortly after.

[svttim]

AndyGJ, on 18 March 2013 - 06:27 PM, said:

svttim,

One set-up that I was considering (and would like to get input on) would be to add the FRPP Stage 1 Heads and the FRPP Intake.  This may sound crazy (so don't throw me under the bus here), but I was going to leave off the FRPP Hot Rod Cams for now.  If that gets me to 400+ HP on a N/A motor and a tame sounding machine, then I would be happy.  Of course, I'm still going to add the 3.73 gears as well.

I know the HR Cams would really add a lot to it, but I'm just worried about the roughness it would bring to the idle with the Steeda motor mounts.

Any thoughts??

Andy.

I did not find the cams objectionable at all. but, you can add them later. Youll just have to pay for them later if you decide to go with it. Keep in mind, the engine is a system from the CAI to the exhaust tip. More air in on one end needs to be moved through the system on the other end. A restriction in the system will limit the entire system and once that restriction is removed, there is usually another restriction thats surfaces until you get to the point where you remove them all and start loosing torque. Without a dyno session, I am not sure how you verify the direction you have taken is really helping. Certainly Ford Racing can help you with some ideas or you can turn to someone like Rehagen Racing who has experience with the motors in several forms but, you still need to dyno the car. Data is king.

Let me through another wrench in the system, those that say tourqe is king on the street are correct but, that being said, torque is not the strong point of these engines. Gearing is the cure for a lot of its woes but not a cure all. My race car will run with cars with 200 more HP. Of course handling is the main reason but the other reason is the transmission. I run a Boss 302R Tremec. It keeps the engine in the power curve much better than what a 5 or another 6 speed transmission can. Not that I would suggest that particular transmission, you would be shifting a lot but, I think this is one area people forget to look at. Making power and keeping the car in the power band are separate issues.

[andrewnagle1964]

With the below mods (no N20)

356 rwhp
331 torque

Dan @ Pro-Dyno is the man! (Thanks to Craig G aka SGT/SC2873  for the recommendation)

Will post Dyno sheet once I get home

Not sure where we are headed with the nitrous but will keep everyone posted.

Andrew

andrewnagle1964, on 18 March 2013 - 03:26 PM, said:

Well, I finally have an appointment with Pro-Dyno in Fort Mill SC for 10 days from now (Wednesday the 27th)

I will post the dyno graph once I get home, I am sure it will be an all day adventure 8 am appointment with over a 2 drive in front of me.

Going to have 2 tunes a N2O and non N2O, finally bought a SCT tuner so I can swap them at will. Been driving around on a N20 tune for 18 months.

Current performance mods

FRPP Stuff
M-6009-A463             Aluminator Forged Internals 9.8:1 compression ratio
M-9424-463V             Intake Manifold
M-6050-463P             CNC Headsy
M-6550-3V                 Hot Rod High Lift Cams
M-9926-3V                 Throttle Body
M-4209-G410             4.10 Gears
M-12405-3V12            0 degree Spark plugs

American Racing               Long Tube Headers 1 3/4” Hi-Flow cats and X pipe

Bosch                      39lb Fuel Injectors

Kenne Bell               Boost-a-Pump 40 Amp

PA Performance      6G Alternator 130 AMP Powder Coated White

Triangle Speed Shop         Billet Gear Oil Pump
Steeda                               Carbon Fiber Intake Elbow
Fore Precision                    High Flow Fuel Rails Black Billet Aluminum

Edited by andrewnagle1964, 27 March 2013 - 07:32 AM.

[EL SHELBY]

Not as high as I was guessing but still very nice numbers. Again, assuming 12% loss thats just a hair over 400hp on the motor. I'm curious how much the heads contributed to the number.

How many miles do you have on the new motor?

[andrewnagle1964]

EL SHELBY, on 27 March 2013 - 08:10 AM, said:

Not as high as I was guessing but still very nice numbers. Again, assuming 12% loss thats just a hair over 400hp on the motor. I'm curious how much the heads contributed to the number.

How many miles do you have on the new motor?

Probably 5,000 on the new motor.

I was pleased as punch with the tuning Dan did.

Andrew

[EL SHELBY]

5k, you are just broken in. Not that you need it, but there may still be more power in it as motor seasons.