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Is watts link a worth while up grade for the street?


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#1 OFFLINE   REAL ONE

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 12:48 PM

Thinking of buying a Watts link for the KR.

Is this a worthwhile upgrade for the KR. I don't track the car. Purely street driving.

What do you guys think?

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#2 OFFLINE   HyperStangs

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Posted 30 November 2012 - 01:03 PM

In a word... NO.

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#3 OFFLINE   08KR525

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 12:25 PM

I don't see where you would benefit anything on a pure street car. Now if the rear isn't perfectly centered I would just install an adjustable panard bar and call it good.
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#4 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 01 December 2012 - 09:49 PM

We'll see in a couple weeks when we put one in Cali_KR's . I'll ask him to post his comments.
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#5 OFFLINE   HyperStangs

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 01:19 PM

We'll see in a couple weeks when we put one in Cali_KR's . I'll ask him to post his comments.


I think the OP's question was, is it "worthwhile".... geometrically speaking, the point at which a ~5ft panhard attaches to the axle moves approximately 1 inch laterally in its arc at the full range of the suspension's travel, so you're taking about eliminating only that. Is it better? No denying.... its it "worthwhile"..... meh. I've driven nearly identical Mustangs with and without a Watts and the difference is completely indiscernible. As I am building my car to track over several months, the watts would be possibly the very last addition (if at all).

Edited by HyperStangs, 02 December 2012 - 01:38 PM.

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2002 SVT Lightning Wht/Wht (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #57 (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #103 (Sold)

1998 Saleen XP8 #13 (Sold)
1995 Saleen S351 #103 / 383 Stroker w/ T-Trim (Still Own)
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#6 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 04:38 PM

In a word... NO.

I think the OP's question was, is it "worthwhile".... geometrically speaking, the point at which a ~5ft panhard attaches to the axle moves approximately 1 inch laterally in its arc at the full range of the suspension's travel, so you're taking about eliminating only that. Is it better? No denying.... its it "worthwhile"..... meh. I've driven nearly identical Mustangs with and without a Watts and the difference is completely indiscernible. As I am building my car to track over several months, the watts would be possibly the very last addition (if at all).

You're confusing- no - yes - maybe. Have you done this on one of your KR's ? I'm just saying that there is a TS member who has just purchased one for his KR and I will try to get him a straight answer from a KR owner who has decided to go that way. Just trying to help the guy out.
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#7 OFFLINE   HyperStangs

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 05:12 PM

You're confusing- no - yes - maybe. Have you done this on one of your KR's ? I'm just saying that there is a TS member who has just purchased one for his KR and I will try to get him a straight answer from a KR owner who has decided to go that way. Just trying to help the guy out.


Well, I'm not sure I could be any more direct. On the street for a normal driver not seeing any track driving the answer is an emphatic no. I think my point was that even on a tracked car the difference is negligible IMHO. From a suspension geometry standpoint the KR is no different than any other Mustang. Based on your number of posts and obvious experience I think you would agree. I'm just trying to help as well.... sometimes more is just more.

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Cars in Reverse Order:
2013 Shelby GT500 Blk/Blk
2003 SVT Cobra Blk/Blk (Sold)
2002 Saleen S281SC Vert (Sold)
2002 SVT Lightning Wht/Wht (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #57 (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #103 (Sold)

1998 Saleen XP8 #13 (Sold)
1995 Saleen S351 #103 / 383 Stroker w/ T-Trim (Still Own)
1994 SVT Cobra (Sold)

 

 

 


#8 OFFLINE   svt13

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 06:44 PM

Thinking of buying a Watts link for the KR.

Is this a worthwhile upgrade for the KR. I don't track the car. Purely street driving.

What do you guys think?


I am not sure how it is with the KRs but on my 13 after I put the watts link my car never hops out on turns anymore. I can also go thru on ramps about 10-15 mph faster than before installing the watts. Also my alignment is perfect in the rear unlike most with an adjustable bar after lowering they are still usually off 1/4-1/8 inch to the left mine is dead center.

The main reason I installed the watts was because I didn't want the rear to hop out anymore over bumps no matter how fast or hard I go over them and the watts link solved that. My car is 99.9% street.

Edited by svt13, 02 December 2012 - 06:45 PM.

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#9 OFFLINE   HyperStangs

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 07:11 PM

Racing is 65% the laws of physics, and 35% how much your brain says you can bend them.

Edited by HyperStangs, 02 December 2012 - 07:14 PM.

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Cars in Reverse Order:
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2003 SVT Cobra Blk/Blk (Sold)
2002 Saleen S281SC Vert (Sold)
2002 SVT Lightning Wht/Wht (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #57 (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #103 (Sold)

1998 Saleen XP8 #13 (Sold)
1995 Saleen S351 #103 / 383 Stroker w/ T-Trim (Still Own)
1994 SVT Cobra (Sold)

 

 

 


#10 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 07:16 PM

Well, I'm not sure I could be any more direct. On the street for a normal driver not seeing any track driving the answer is an emphatic no. I think my point was that even on a tracked car the difference is negligible IMHO. From a suspension geometry standpoint the KR is no different than any other Mustang. Based on your number of posts and obvious experience I think you would agree. I'm just trying to help as well.... sometimes more is just more.

Spoken like a true car salesman. I'll take that as a NO on the answer to my question " Have you done this on one of your KR's ? "
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#11 OFFLINE   HyperStangs

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 07:27 PM

Spoken like a true car salesman. I'll take that as a NO on the answer to my question " Have you done this on one of your KR's ? "


Dear Sir, I am NOT a car salesman. I'm an enthusiast who happens to represent Ford, Rich Ford and Shelby American when I can. My livelihood is not at all tied to my ability to offer these cars to those who enjoy them. If I were a salesman I would have answered in the affirmative and urged the OP to buy this product, since you feel I am related to its sales in some way. I spend my time as I like, and I have indeed driven a KR along with just about any other Ford product they have ever made. Not because I've needed to, but because I've wanted to. I've shaken hands with Carroll Shelby and I've worked directly with those who have influenced the image of Mustangs since the late 80's. I try to help others, but I don't in any way feel I have all the answers. I'm constantly learning and I have no agenda. But the LAST thing I am is a car salesman....

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Cars in Reverse Order:
2013 Shelby GT500 Blk/Blk
2003 SVT Cobra Blk/Blk (Sold)
2002 Saleen S281SC Vert (Sold)
2002 SVT Lightning Wht/Wht (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #57 (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #103 (Sold)

1998 Saleen XP8 #13 (Sold)
1995 Saleen S351 #103 / 383 Stroker w/ T-Trim (Still Own)
1994 SVT Cobra (Sold)

 

 

 


#12 OFFLINE   The Chairman

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 07:32 PM

I had the Shelby adjustable panhard bar and brace on my KR, and it was better handling than stock. But I still wanted more rear end control. So I installed the Shelby Watts link. Much better in all regards. Street handling is better. I haven't had it on a full road course yet, but I can feel the rear end is more planted.

If someone is only interested in street use, the watts link may not be required. But anyone expecting track use or spirited driving, the watts link is the way to go.

#13 OFFLINE   Jer

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Posted 02 December 2012 - 11:44 PM

*I* liked this mod in everyday "street driving", the fact that the "rear steering effect" went away was obvious to me immediately. Just my 2 cents.


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#14 OFFLINE   07SGT2899

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 06:08 AM

maybe you could find someone locally from TS that has one on their car and go for a ride before you make your decision.

its awful hard to get a feel for something over opinions coming through a keyboard :)

#15 OFFLINE   MMcGuirk

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Posted 03 December 2012 - 06:26 AM

Here you go - http://www.miracerro..._suspension.htm
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Posted 03 December 2012 - 07:53 AM

Cliff Clavin note: The Watts link was invented in 1784 !

Interesting reading here if you really want to nerd out...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt's_linkage

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#17 OFFLINE   Tob

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 07:34 AM

Also my alignment is perfect in the rear unlike most with an adjustable bar after lowering they are still usually off 1/4-1/8 inch to the left mine is dead center.


No.

An adjustable bar that has been 'adjusted' to center the vehicle over the rear axle now has a vehicle that is centered over the axle. Not this much to the left or that much to the right. If the adjustment is off, it is no different than a Watts that wasn't adjusted properly.

Movement throughout the dynamic range with regards to a panhard bar versus a Watts is a different discussion than what you wrote.

#18 OFFLINE   svt13

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:33 PM

No.

An adjustable bar that has been 'adjusted' to center the vehicle over the rear axle now has a vehicle that is centered over the axle. Not this much to the left or that much to the right. If the adjustment is off, it is no different than a Watts that wasn't adjusted properly.

Movement throughout the dynamic range with regards to a panhard bar versus a Watts is a different discussion than what you wrote.


I don't know about all that. But a lot of people that I have seen posting about their alignment said they still couldn't get it 100% perfect with an adjutable panhard bar. That was specifically another reason why I chose the watts link route as well. I'm too OCD to settle with 1/8 inch off, I need absolute perfection.
2013 shelby gt500 black w/black stripe SVTPP,Recaros,Electronics Package,Glass roof,car cover.

Mods:
35% window tint

nav-tv rear view camera
Red line hood struts
Front splitter curb alert system
Super snake carbon fiber splitter
APR Performance carbon fiber mirror assembly
JLT CF resonator delete w/blue airaid Filter
Shelby transmission cooler scoope
BMR UCA with Mount, BMR adjustable panhard bar
Bob's billet LCA and bob's oil separator
FRPP springs
HRE p40 w/Michelin Super sport tires


Future mods going on the car soon: Shelby floor and trunk mat, custom made EPCO shifter knob


Mods undecided about:
Boss x brace, MGW shifter, Boss side exhaust, Corsa black diamond axleback, Lithium battery

#19 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:51 PM

Thinking of buying a Watts link for the KR.

Is this a worthwhile upgrade for the KR. I don't track the car. Purely street driving.

What do you guys think?

In a word ... YES


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#20 OFFLINE   HyperStangs

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 02:00 PM

We'll have to agree to disagree... and I can live with that.

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Cars in Reverse Order:
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2003 SVT Cobra Blk/Blk (Sold)
2002 Saleen S281SC Vert (Sold)
2002 SVT Lightning Wht/Wht (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #57 (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #103 (Sold)

1998 Saleen XP8 #13 (Sold)
1995 Saleen S351 #103 / 383 Stroker w/ T-Trim (Still Own)
1994 SVT Cobra (Sold)

 

 

 


#21 OFFLINE   Albino500

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Posted 05 December 2012 - 02:23 PM

We'll have to agree to disagree... and I can live with that.

Yep - no problem - I'm sure there are plenty of other things that we'll find to agree upon and disagree upon Jeff.
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#918 of a build of 8152 coupes
#212 of 2252 in Performance White

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2007 SGT-California Edition Built on 5/15/2007
CSM#07SGT4755
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Converted to " SCCA SMG Class " race car - 2/04/2013

#22 OFFLINE   REAL ONE

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 09:21 AM

Guys: Thanks for the replies. Understand both sides of the argument. Probably will go with Watts Link for the cool factor if nothing else.

Silly..I know but I know you guys "get it" as its a car guy thing.

Cheers. :rockon:

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#23 OFFLINE   HyperStangs

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 11:24 AM

Guys: Thanks for the replies. Understand both sides of the argument. Probably will go with Watts Link for the cool factor if nothing else.

Silly..I know but I know you guys "get it" as its a car guy thing.

Cheers. :rockon:


Not "Silly" at all... the real beauty of these cars is there ARE so many options. Nobody is really "right" or "wrong"... that's why they make chocolate and vanilla. ENJOY! ;)

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Cars in Reverse Order:
2013 Shelby GT500 Blk/Blk
2003 SVT Cobra Blk/Blk (Sold)
2002 Saleen S281SC Vert (Sold)
2002 SVT Lightning Wht/Wht (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #57 (Sold)
2000 SVT Cobra-R #103 (Sold)

1998 Saleen XP8 #13 (Sold)
1995 Saleen S351 #103 / 383 Stroker w/ T-Trim (Still Own)
1994 SVT Cobra (Sold)

 

 

 


#24 OFFLINE   2010KonaBlueGT

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Posted 06 December 2012 - 12:01 PM

I don't know about all that. But a lot of people that I have seen posting about their alignment said they still couldn't get it 100% perfect with an adjutable panhard bar.


I don't know why that would be. It's a *very* simple adjustment and measurement.

To measure it, I used a string bob on each side of the fender lip.

When I first put my car on the ground (after installing the FR-3 handling pack) the left rear tire was one full inch offset to the left (sticking out the driver side well).

Using a string bob hanging off of the outer fender lip I adjusted the rear axle over to the right, 1/2 inch and got the axle *perfectly* centered in the body.

And that's where it stays, other than under compression or rebound of the body (dynamically).

And yes, I DO get the rear steer that Jer wrote about and I have seriously considered some sort of watts link/age to counter it.

Ya know when you bang a shift and the car kicks out to the left (rear of the car kicks to the right)? I'm thinking some of that is the rear steer you get from when the ass end of the car squats (weight transfer). I know the rear tire speed delta is the primary contributor too but I'm thinking (meaning I'm guessing) that some of it is due to the panhard bar arc.

I also has a butt pucker when I hit a bridge seam at around 145mph. The ass gets light and then lands, giving the rear axle the opportunity to put the panhard into a full arc. It wasn't a problem, but it got my attention.

If I had it to do over again, I'd probably put a Watts link/age system in the rear of my car vs. the FRPP axle girdle, Shelby adjustable Panhard bar and Body Brace (and probably for just a little more money than what I spent).


Phill

2010 GT500 Coupe
Kona Blue w/White OTT Stripes and Red Accent Stripes
Electronics Package, HID's & Car Cover


CURRENT MODS: FRPP: Whipple 2.9L Polished Superchager w/Crusher Inlet & Cobra Jet Dual 65mm Throttle Body - Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers - Ford GT Blue Cam Covers - Polished Billet COP & Oil Filler Cap Covers - FR3 Handling Pack w/Tokico Struts/Shocks & Eibach Swaybars - Jounce Bumpers - 8.8" Low Profile Axle Girdle - 3" Front Brake Cooling Ducts - Vacuum/Boost Gauge~ MGW: Short Throw Shifter - White w/Blue Stripes Shifter Knob - Radiator and Intercooler Degas Bottle Caps - Seat Recliner Lever Covers - Parking Brake Handle Cover - Coat Hanger Hooks~ PST: 1-piece Carbon Fiber Driveshaft~ Revan Racing: C&R Radiator and Intercooler~ ROUSH: 3x Intercooler Degas Bottle - Side Splitters - Extreme Off-road Exhaust - Adjustable Trailing Arms (LCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link (UCA) - Adjustable 3rd Link Bracket - AC Vent Pod Vac/Boost Gauge Mount~ SHELBY: SC Aux. Idler Pulley - Oil Dipstick Handle, MC, PS & WS Washer Reservoir Caps - 8-qt. Oil Pan - Tubular K-Member Subframe - Tubular A-arms - CS S1000 Billet Aluminum Transmission Crossmember - Seat Harness Bar - 6S Extreme Rear Brakes - 6S Extreme Front Brakes - GT500KR Front Brake Cooling Duct Bezels - Anti Bump-stear Tie-rod Ends - Race Style Swaybar Links - Adjustable Caster/Camber Plates - Adjustable Panhard Bar - Panhard Bar/Body Brace - GT500KR Rear Axle Reservoir - Lower Control Arm Relocation Brackets -18" GT500KR Alcoa Dura-Bright Wheels & Goodyear GT500KR Winged Boot F1 Supercar Tires~ Raptor Shift Light

PURCHASED AND AWAITING INSTALLATION: Shelby/Metco Fuel Rails - Shelby Alcoa Forged 20" Dura-Bright Super Snake Style Wheels - Shelby Billet Aluminum Fuel Door - NMB2 2-Stage WOT Box - Granatelli Motors Tire Fryer Line-lock - ZEX N2O kit - Ford Racing Lighted Sill Plates w/Ford Racing logo.

 

Soon to be "For Sale": Eradispeed Rear Brake Rotors & Caliper Relocation Brackets


#25 OFFLINE   Albino500

Albino500

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 03:45 PM

Check out Cali_KR's comments on his post.
2007 GT500 Built on 7/27/2006
#918 of a build of 8152 coupes
#212 of 2252 in Performance White

Member of Terlingua Racing Team
Member of the "Clean Butt Club" - Class of 2010
2012 Shelby American 50th Anniversary Vegas Bash Car Show "Class" Award Winner

2007 SGT-California Edition Built on 5/15/2007
CSM#07SGT4755
1 of 89 Shelby GT-California Editions done in Performance White/Silver Stripes
Converted to " SCCA SMG Class " race car - 2/04/2013

#26 OFFLINE   ViperNC

ViperNC

    Some say he roams around the woods at night foraging for wolves

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  • Interests:Track days, Mountain bike riding/racing, motorcycle riding, cars, warbirds & chasing my kids, road course racing
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Posted 10 February 2013 - 04:47 PM

Watts Link or Panhard bar is a drivers preference based upon "how" you drive. Its purely subjective and all about what type of performance you are looking for. They guy who drives 100% on the street and does not corner hard will be happy with the panhard bar. The guy who is looking to make the car handle the very best it can and pushes to that limit will not be happy with the panhard bar. I went with the Shelby billet aluminum watts link and not only does it look incredible, but it makes a huge difference in tight high speed corners (track or street).

 

 

1c%20(Large).jpg 

2009 Shelby GT500 - Notable Upgrades:

  • True Forged Chicane Wheels w/ Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires: 275/30/20 Front and 285/30/20 Rear
  • Shelby/Wilwood Front and Rear Racing Brakes
  • Shelby GT500 Brake Duct Bezels/Front Brake Duct Kit
  • Ford Racing Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers
  • Shelby Oil Separator
  • Shelby GT500 Engine Coil Covers
  • Metco 2.6 pulley/idler w/JLT Cold Air Kit and SCT Tune
  • Shelby Billet Aluminum Racing Oil Pan
  • Shelby Extreme Duty Heat Exchanger
  • PST Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
  • Ford Racing Low Profile Differential Cover w/ over flow tank
  • Flowmaster Exhaust
  • Shelby Racing Front and Rear Sway Bars
  • Shelby Bumpsteer Tie Rod Adjuster
  • Shelby Sway Bar End Links
  • Shelby A Arms
  • Shelby K-Member, Radiator Support, Chassis Support, A Arm Support Brace 
  • Shelby Billet Aluminum Watts Link
  • Metco Billet Aluminum Rear Lower Control Arms
  • Ford Racing Springs
  • Shelby Six Speed Shifter Lever w/ Shelby GT500 Shift Knob
  • Shelby GT500 Engine Billet Aluminum Cap Set
  • Shelby Billet Aluminum Racing Pedal and Dead Pedal Covers
  • Carbon fiber upgrades: Front Splitter, Rocker Panels, Rear Mud Guards, Rear Diffuser, Side View Mirror Inserts, Hood Vents, Door Sills, Speaker Rings, Center Console, Mirror Switch Covers, Door Lock Bezels 

 

 


#27 OFFLINE   REAL ONE

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 10:30 AM

Thanks.

CSX 4206 (Raven Black. Power: 1965 427 SO with dual quads)
'05 Mark IV Red Ford GT #1414
'09 Torch Red GT500KR
'07 Performance White Shelby GT

U.S. Army Rangers. Mess with the best, die like the rest. Want 72 virgins? They'll hook you up.


#28 OFFLINE   svt13

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:37 AM

So I finally took my watts link off and went back to a panhard bar and on the street I can tell you a watts link makes NO DIFFERENCE WHAT SO EVER. Anyone saying otherwise is fooling themselves and they just believe it makes a difference because they want to.

There are a few turns especially an extremely long ramp that with the watts I would take at like 60 mph and I was pulling pretty good gs. According to my track apps I was pulling .92

I could do the exact same thing with the panhard yesterday on winter tires with 35 degree temperatures and it felt the EXACT SAME. The rear steering that I thought the watts link solved was still solved even after the watts was off. This makes me believe either my springs or my UCA,LCA fixed that issue and not the watts.

I will say that going over bumps there is a tiny bit more squrim without the watts because it allowed for easier vertical motion like an IRS would. But it is very very small.

Here is basically the difference between a watts and panhard. If you test the max g's you could get with both you would probably find the watts would be little bit better. But that would be only on a track. I don't know about you but I don't have the ba**s to test out the limits on the street. So lets say on a track you pull .92 on a single turn with a panhard bar. A watts would do .94. But on the street unless you want to chance it and be in a really hairy situation, the watts link makes no difference.

I can speak better about this topic because I went from panhard to watts and then back to panhard and I paid attention specifically to how the car reacted doing the same turns, at the same speeds, in the same conditions which I'm sure many other members won't be able to tell you.

Save your money basically.
2013 shelby gt500 black w/black stripe SVTPP,Recaros,Electronics Package,Glass roof,car cover.

Mods:
35% window tint

nav-tv rear view camera
Red line hood struts
Front splitter curb alert system
Super snake carbon fiber splitter
APR Performance carbon fiber mirror assembly
JLT CF resonator delete w/blue airaid Filter
Shelby transmission cooler scoope
BMR UCA with Mount, BMR adjustable panhard bar
Bob's billet LCA and bob's oil separator
FRPP springs
HRE p40 w/Michelin Super sport tires


Future mods going on the car soon: Shelby floor and trunk mat, custom made EPCO shifter knob


Mods undecided about:
Boss x brace, MGW shifter, Boss side exhaust, Corsa black diamond axleback, Lithium battery

#29 OFFLINE   07SGT2899

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:54 AM

^^^ thank you for the direct comparison review. hopefully it will clear things up for some members

#30 OFFLINE   ViperNC

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 12:51 PM

There are a few turns especially an extremely long ramp that with the watts I would take at like 60 mph and I was pulling pretty good gs. According to my track apps I was pulling .92


You're only going 60 mph? Thats why you don't feel the difference.

 

 

1c%20(Large).jpg 

2009 Shelby GT500 - Notable Upgrades:

  • True Forged Chicane Wheels w/ Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires: 275/30/20 Front and 285/30/20 Rear
  • Shelby/Wilwood Front and Rear Racing Brakes
  • Shelby GT500 Brake Duct Bezels/Front Brake Duct Kit
  • Ford Racing Ceramic Coated Shorty Headers
  • Shelby Oil Separator
  • Shelby GT500 Engine Coil Covers
  • Metco 2.6 pulley/idler w/JLT Cold Air Kit and SCT Tune
  • Shelby Billet Aluminum Racing Oil Pan
  • Shelby Extreme Duty Heat Exchanger
  • PST Carbon Fiber Drive Shaft
  • Ford Racing Low Profile Differential Cover w/ over flow tank
  • Flowmaster Exhaust
  • Shelby Racing Front and Rear Sway Bars
  • Shelby Bumpsteer Tie Rod Adjuster
  • Shelby Sway Bar End Links
  • Shelby A Arms
  • Shelby K-Member, Radiator Support, Chassis Support, A Arm Support Brace 
  • Shelby Billet Aluminum Watts Link
  • Metco Billet Aluminum Rear Lower Control Arms
  • Ford Racing Springs
  • Shelby Six Speed Shifter Lever w/ Shelby GT500 Shift Knob
  • Shelby GT500 Engine Billet Aluminum Cap Set
  • Shelby Billet Aluminum Racing Pedal and Dead Pedal Covers
  • Carbon fiber upgrades: Front Splitter, Rocker Panels, Rear Mud Guards, Rear Diffuser, Side View Mirror Inserts, Hood Vents, Door Sills, Speaker Rings, Center Console, Mirror Switch Covers, Door Lock Bezels 

 

 





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