14 replies to this topic

[Robert M]

Has anyone bought strut covers that work with the Eibachs, Strut Tower Brace and also clear the Super Snake hood? <<The last issue would be the front outer strut bolt when covered, contacting the bottom side of the hood.

I would like to clean up this area under my hood, but I don't want to start grinding on the Eibachs to get non-Super Snake aftermarket parts to fit.


R

Edited by Robert M, 03 March 2013 - 04:52 PM.

[Amigo GT500]

I havent found any Robert.....

[Robert M]

O.k., so I first tried the easy way, the CPC black plastic cap that covers the complete area over the strut and attachments............no go, it would not clear the Eibach strut without grinding on the center strut stud, plus it hit the Super Snake hood at the outer front area of the plastic. <<These two issues eliminated it.

Next, on to the billet alum. options..........

I have purchased the Roush  (no logo) strut tower set. I am not sure if this kit is still available, but I found one.

Anyway, below is the "first" issues without even getting to the strut tower brace side, the center cap sits too high.........



and the outer front cap hits the Super Snake hood. These billet caps are clear powdercoated, so grinding on them on the top side will only expose the alum. to the elements.




I have worked the center cap down to a acceptable level without altering the Eibach strut in any way........








Next is to get that front outer cap to fit without hood contact, the rest will be easy (I hope).



R

Edited by Robert M, 07 March 2013 - 02:58 PM.

[jacks1071]

Can you tell me about the brace Rob?  Does it make any noticable improvement?

Did you buy it or make it?

How can I get one??

[Robert M]

jacks1071, on 09 March 2013 - 07:24 AM, said:

Can you tell me about the brace Rob?  Does it make any noticable improvement?

Did you buy it or make it?

How can I get one??

This is the strut tower brace that is offered through Shelby Performance Parts. As you see it is the way I bought it, engraved, polished, etc. I had one similar to this made before SPP offered one for our cars, but have since purchased the SPP unit.


Does it help? I don't know? Ford spent the extra $$$ to include one on each GT500 built so I would guess that they felt these cars needed one? Ford "usually" does not add something that costs $$$ unless they feel it is of benefit for the specific application.



R

[Robert M]

The drivers side is done. I did not grind or modify the strut or any of it's attachment studs. I did buy a second/spare set of 8 nuts from Ford that fasten the strut in place. The tops of the nuts required grinding on a belt sander so that stud threads would be exposed at the strut tower attachment, but just enough nut was removed to keep some of the lock nut function and also provide a couple of threads to attach the billet caps. Some of the caps were also placed on the belt sander, bottom sides to "thin" them when used on the 4 strut tower brace studs.


The modified nut(s).......



The finished drives side......





In the picture above, I also removed enough material from the bottom of the nut caps so that they don't quite touch the paint or strut tower brace. If these caps are removed, I don't want "rings" in the paint or on the alum. strut tower brace. These caps are for "looks only" to clean up the strut tower area, and if/when they are removed I want no sign that they were ever there.





R

Edited by Robert M, 09 March 2013 - 12:08 PM.

[ingram4868]

Very nice work

[Robert M]

ingram4868, on 09 March 2013 - 01:51 PM, said:

Very nice work

Thanks!

I thought I was done with the divers side but I still am working on that front outer nut/cap, it touches the hood slightly. Other than that, there is no other hood contact, and there was none at all on the passenger side.




R

Edited by Robert M, 11 March 2013 - 03:09 AM.

[butch12573]

Hey Robert I have a dumb question. I remember back some time you changed your hood pins and was wondering if you changed the lanyards and if you did do you remember what size rivets you used for the lanyards. I need to change my lanyards due to discoloring and want to use the right size rivets. Thanks Butch

Sorry for going off topic

[Robert M]

butch12573, on 11 March 2013 - 05:12 PM, said:

Hey Robert I have a dumb question. I remember back some time you changed your hood pins and was wondering if you changed the lanyards and if you did do you remember what size rivets you used for the lanyards. I need to change my lanyards due to discoloring and want to use the right size rivets. Thanks Butch

Sorry for going off topic

Butch - I still have my original lanyard cables on my car. I am still using screws for my hood pin plates, but I changed from the original phillips head to a torx.





R

Edited by Robert M, 12 March 2013 - 03:27 AM.

[Robert M]

I ended up buying a different set of strut stud nut caps that are smaller in diameter at the top for Super Snake hood clearance on the drivers side.

Before.......



After......



In the "After" picture, a battery cover has also been added to clean up that corner a little bit.
I also noticed that I have added the Super Snake fuse box cover after the "Before" picture was taken.



R

Edited by Robert M, 16 March 2013 - 06:27 AM.

[mitch07ss0113]

Robert where did you get the battery cover

[Robert M]

mitch07ss0113, on 28 April 2013 - 03:07 AM, said:

Robert where did you get the battery cover

Mitch - It is shown in the link below.

http://www.anchor-ro...11ni35oqs002no1





R

[ShelbySC]

Quote

Robert M
Posted 16 March 2013 - 10:25 AM
I ended up buying a different set of strut stud nut caps that are smaller in diameter at the top for Super Snake hood clearance on the drivers side.

Thanks RobertM, this has been some good info.  
I am working on the same issues with the same strut tower caps.  Which kind/brand stud nut caps did you switch to?

Also where did you locate your radiator support cover?

[Robert M]

ShelbySC, on 09 May 2013 - 03:02 PM, said:

Thanks RobertM, this has been some good info.  
I am working on the same issues with the same strut tower caps.  Which kind/brand stud nut caps did you switch to?

Also where did you locate your radiator support cover?

I think the smaller diameter strut stud caps ended up coming from UPR, they were part of the "Devo" strut cap set, but the center strut cap in the Devo set was too shallow for me to use. <<It would have required grinding on the Eibach strut stud to get the center cap to sit down low enough to look right. This is the reason I used the Roush polished plain billet set with no logo, the center strut cap is taller and I was able to remove about 1/8" by drilling more material out of the area that screws down over the strut stud. <<This has to be done carefully also, or it will punch through and ruin the center cap.

I bought that radiator cap from Hendrix at Bangastang.




R