If you have some mechanic experience, both are not too bad to install, even without a hoist.
So far I have installed 3 prs of Steeda billet aluminum LCAs, and 2 prs of BMR billet aluminum LCAs.
Depending on your equipment and pace, they can easily be installed in less than 1.5 hours in your garage or driveway.
I went with the billet BMRs because they are good LCAs and look really sharp on the car, same can be said about the Steedas.
If I had to bet though, I would say those UPR chrome moly ones would be stronger.
I went with the BMR LCAs and UCA with the red poly/poly bushings, but the Poly/Spherical ends look interesting too.
I felt that the black bushings on the Steedas are a little on the soft side for a 500+ ftlbs torque car.
I also didn't want to get too rigid either, as I don't track race and didn't want excessive vibration in a mostly street car.
You basically jack up the rear of the car, then support the car at points just in front of the LCA front body mounts with jack stands or blocks, and let the rear end hang a bit.
You can control the height of the rear end with you jack as needed, and when you get it at the right height, it will be easy to move back and forth to get the last bolt in.
MAKE SURE THAT YOU ONLY DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME.
Release the rear brake cables and then you can proceed to unbolt the oem LCA bolts.
When removing or reinstalling, one side has to be released first, I believe that is the rear bolt at the axle.
I reused my oem bolts, cleaned them good with solvent and reassembled them with blue grade thread locker, torqued to 130 ftlbs.
Btw, if you decide to install the UCA as well, I strongly recommend that you upgrade the UCA bracket as well, as the oem one is just a thin stamped steel piece.
You should go for something heavier/stronger like a thicker tig welded unit, as the harder poly (or other) bushings will put more of a strain on that bracket.
I have seen them fail at the drag strip with disasterous results, broken shocks, bent housing brackets, damaged tires and wheel wells etc.
Changing the UCA bracket requires a bit more work, removing the back seat to get at one of the bolts, and lowering the gas tank enough to be able to get the UCA bracket in and out.
On my car I also had to get a special torx bit to remove the tank bolts, I got this bit to help with that:
I found it easier to bolt/torque the UCA into the bracket, and then installed both as a unit.
The driveshaft install is not difficult, as long as you get the car high enough to be able to safely work under there.
Getting a torque wrench on the front bolts can be a challenge, used some extensions and a 12 pt socket, as well as rotate the assembly a bit to get a good line on some of the bolts.
For the back I believe I modified a large allen key (cut with chop saw) for the cap head bolts.
I used blue thread locker on solvent cleaned threads/holes, and torque them to recommended specs as per the driveshaft manufacturers recommendations.