[Revan Racing]

This is going to take some time so stay with me as I load this stuff up.

Image One

The Heat Exchanger is HUGE!!!!!!!!! LOL

Image Two

Remove the Radiator Cover

Image Three

Remove 5 front inner fender well phillips head screws

Image Four

Remove Lower Air Dam and Belly Pan

Image Five

Remove inner fender well plastic phillips head release rivets. After inner fender well is removed disconnect all lighting connections

Image Six

More Phillips Rivets in fender well

Image Seven

Belly Pan 7/32 screws

Image Eight

Belly pan and front splitter removed

Image Nine

Remove upper bumper mounting screws

Missing Image

On each side after you remove the inner fender well there are two 10 MM screws that hold the bumper in place. Remove both on each side of the inner fender well. Lightly pull down and then lift and pull the front bumper clip off. It's amazing how easily this thing actually comes off.

Image Ten

Remove clamp at bottom of heat exchanger and loosen supercharger reservoir cap and place bucket underneath to capture fluid

Image Eleven

Disconnect electrical connection to water pump

Image Twelve

Disconnect inlet from Supercharger Reservoir to water pump

Missing Images. Remove water pump from current heat exchanger and install onto back of new C&R Heat Exchanger with 5 washers on each stud to space up the heat exchanger. Included in kit is new hose with 90 degree bend, the shorter one. Install onto water pump and connect to dual pass inlet on back of heat exchanger. Cut hose to fit and use provided stainless steel hose clamps to mount.

Image Thirteen

Remove Stock Bumper Bolts for replacement with new provided Bolts in kit for hanging Heat Exchanger

Image Fourteen

Install Heat Exchanger with new bolts and NYLOC nuts to hold in place. Take your time, this can be time consuming.

Image Fifteen

Heat Exchanger is hanging and in place. Tighten NYLOC hex nuts into place.

Image Sixteen

Time for COLD BEER

Image Seventeen

Wiring Harnesses and Relays. One relay is missing form the picture. Eddie G isn't the best photographer. LOL

Image Eighteen

Drill Holes for Relay Mounts and and grounding. You can find separate relay mounts of your choosing as well as grounding locations without drilling. Eddie G consider's his car that much closer to race ready for the road course so he doesn't really care about the holes. There are plenty of locations to pick up mounting locations and grounding locations.

Image Nineteen

First Relay is haning. Next relay will be located directly next to it. Then let the wiring begin.

Continue to Next Page..........My wife is starting to look at me like what the ..........are you doing over there? LOL

Attached File(s)

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[Revan Racing]

Image Twenty

After wiring (see wiring diagram) in next post. Take provided in line fuses which are provided closed loop cut to need. Crimp round eyelet connector to both in line fuses and attach at fuse box location

Image Twenty One

Inline Fuses and Relay Triggers

Image Twenty Two

Fuse Position 47. We are doing an installation with the Add-A-Fuse product. A lot of you wanted to see it this way versus a crimp connector.

Image Twenty Three

Add-A-Fuse from Advance Auto Parts

Image Twenty Four

Twist the two wires from the relay (triggers) and crimp into place with the aforementioned Add-A-Fuse but splice.

Image Twenty Five

Image is not very good. Installed the 15 AMP mini fuse that was removed from Position 47 and installed 10 AMP mini fuse for Relay Trigger. This will trigger the relays and fans at Ignition or Key On.

Image Twenty Six

Add A Fuse installed.

Installation complete. Reverse installation and re-install bumper clip etc.

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[Revan Racing]

Wiring Diagram. I know it's not exactly great but it's basic. I am having it drawn into CAD.

Attached File(s)

•  HE_WIRING_DIAGRAM.pdf (367.87K)
  Number of downloads: 302

[Revan Racing]

Heat Exchanger Install Instructions as provided in Heat Exchanger Kit

Attached File(s)

•  Installation_Instructions_for_C__R_Heat_Exchanger.pdf (279.45K)
  Number of downloads: 328

[LEESTOYSTANG]

Great write up and pics Van and Ed...

[enormous]

Thanks Van, I have read everything twice. Now, I will probably be doing this in my dreams tonight

[Revan Racing]

enormous, on Mar 29 2009, 10:33 PM, said:

Thanks Van, I have read everything twice. Now, I will probably be doing this in my dreams tonight

Very Soon Norm. Very Soon.

[srk1959]

Yes, Thanks for taking the time with the pic's, it's always easier to see it along with having the drawings and instructions. I can't wait to get my Revan Racing stuff installed.......all of it!

This post has been edited by srk1959: 29 March 2009 - 06:36 PM

[Revan Racing]

srk1959, on Mar 29 2009, 10:35 PM, said:

Yes, Thanks for taking the time with the pic's, it's always easier to see it along with having the drawings and instructions. I can't wait to get my Revan Racing stuff installed.......all of it!

And you've got PLENTY!!! LOL Thanks SRK

[BEEKAY GT500]

dactyl, on Mar 29 2009, 06:45 PM, said:

This is going to take some time so stay with me as I load this stuff up.

Image One

The Heat Exchanger is HUGE!!!!!!!!! LOL

Image Two

Remove the Radiator Cover

Image Three

Remove 5 front inner fender well phillips head screws

Image Four

Remove Lower Air Dam and Belly Pan

Image Five

Remove inner fender well plastic phillips head release rivets. After inner fender well is removed disconnect all lighting connections

Image Six

More Phillips Rivets in fender well

Image Seven

Belly Pan 7/32 screws

Image Eight

Belly pan and front splitter removed

Image Nine

Remove upper bumper mounting screws

Missing Image

On each side after you remove the inner fender well there are two 10 MM screws that hold the bumper in place. Remove both on each side of the inner fender well. Lightly pull down and then lift and pull the front bumper clip off. It's amazing how easily this thing actually comes off.

Image Ten

Remove clamp at bottom of heat exchanger and loosen supercharger reservoir cap and place bucket underneath to capture fluid

Image Eleven

Disconnect electrical connection to water pump

Image Twelve

Disconnect inlet from Supercharger Reservoir to water pump

Missing Images. Remove water pump from current heat exchanger and install onto back of new C&R Heat Exchanger with 5 washers on each stud to space up the heat exchanger. Included in kit is new hose with 90 degree bend, the shorter one. Install onto water pump and connect to dual pass inlet on back of heat exchanger. Cut hose to fit and use provided stainless steel hose clamps to mount.

Image Thirteen

Remove Stock Bumper Bolts for replacement with new provided Bolts in kit for hanging Heat Exchanger

Image Fourteen

Install Heat Exchanger with new bolts and NYLOC nuts to hold in place. Take your time, this can be time consuming.

Image Fifteen

Heat Exchanger is hanging and in place. Tighten NYLOC hex nuts into place.

Image Sixteen

Time for COLD BEER

Image Seventeen

Wiring Harnesses and Relays. One relay is missing form the picture. Eddie G isn't the best photographer. LOL

Image Eighteen

Drill Holes for Relay Mounts and and grounding. You can find separate relay mounts of your choosing as well as grounding locations without drilling. Eddie G consider's his car that much closer to race ready for the road course so he doesn't really care about the holes. There are plenty of locations to pick up mounting locations and grounding locations.

Image Nineteen

First Relay is haning. Next relay will be located directly next to it. Then let the wiring begin.

Continue to Next Page..........My wife is starting to look at me like what the ..........are you doing over there? LOL

this will really help out. good job putting it together. a few things i would add.

1. when putlling off the foam piece behind the bumper cover make sure you note the orientation. there is a top and bottom and it will go on both ways but you wnt be able to get the bumper cover back on. i have read about more than a few guys putting it on the wrong way and spending time trying to figure this out.

2. there are two pieces of plastic guides (one for each side at the bottom of the h/e) that will be left over from the stock he. i spent some time trying to figure out where these came from since i didnt take pictures along the way. because the revan racing/c&r he is taller these guides are no longer used. i cant remember if these even need to come off but i took them off and wasted time trying to figure it out.

3. make sure you mock up the wiring a few times to make sure. i didnt cut until everything was wired through the location i wanted to follow.

[gr8snkbite]

nice write up Van......

guess you need a book now...techy posting for dumbies......

do like the new orientation for fan wires though.....

[Eddie G]

Hey guys...

There are a couple of more pics I'm going to add, this is just pretty stuff . I took wire loom , and covered all the wires coming right into the fuse box. Unfortunately , it will be a few days since my baby is a getting a new tranny as per the phone call from my mechanic today.

Ed

[LEESTOYSTANG]

Eddie G, on Mar 30 2009, 07:23 PM, said:

Hey guys...

There are a couple of more pics I'm going to add, this is just pretty stuff . I took wire loom , and covered all the wires coming right into the fuse box. Unfortunately , it will be a few days since my baby is a getting a new tranny as per the phone call from my mechanic today.

Ed

Ed,
Glad to hear they're going to take care of it .... Did they give you any problems about the KB ??

This post has been edited by LEESTOYSTANG: 30 March 2009 - 04:06 PM

[Revan Racing]

BEEKAY GT500, on Mar 30 2009, 12:35 PM, said:

this will really help out. good job putting it together. a few things i would add.

1. when putlling off the foam piece behind the bumper cover make sure you note the orientation. there is a top and bottom and it will go on both ways but you wnt be able to get the bumper cover back on. i have read about more than a few guys putting it on the wrong way and spending time trying to figure this out.

2. there are two pieces of plastic guides (one for each side at the bottom of the h/e) that will be left over from the stock he. i spent some time trying to figure out where these came from since i didnt take pictures along the way. because the revan racing/c&r he is taller these guides are no longer used. i cant remember if these even need to come off but i took them off and wasted time trying to figure it out.

3. make sure you mock up the wiring a few times to make sure. i didnt cut until everything was wired through the location i wanted to follow.

BK

The lower fins you speak about can be installed. Unfortunately every install I have done we didn't have them because they were not in place. (replacing a Steeda or an AFCO). It can be difficult but what I did was use the flange clip and slid the clip in between the bumper plastic and the lip of the lower grill. Next time I take my lower belly pan off or do an install where the fins are still in place I will show how I installed them.

VC

[BEEKAY GT500]

dactyl, on Mar 31 2009, 04:45 AM, said:

BK

The lower fins you speak about can be installed. Unfortunately every install I have done we didn't have them because they were not in place. (replacing a Steeda or an AFCO). It can be difficult but what I did was use the flange clip and slid the clip in between the bumper plastic and the lip of the lower grill. Next time I take my lower belly pan off or do an install where the fins are still in place I will show how I installed them.

VC

van, thanks for clarifying. i should have taken more detailed pictures during the install. i thought a portion of the fin went below the he thus not allowing it to fit due to the extended height. i'll have to see how it looks once you have it on.

[Revan Racing]

BEEKAY GT500, on Mar 31 2009, 11:51 AM, said:

van, thanks for clarifying. i should have taken more detailed pictures during the install. i thought a portion of the fin went below the he thus not allowing it to fit due to the extended height. i'll have to see how it looks once you have it on.

Or the next time I do an install!

[Secondo]

Van if I may add to this:

Per Van each fan uses about 7 amps at start-up and run at 6 amps. The relays I'm assuming are 30 amp rated because they each come with a 30 amp fuse and the wires are 10-gauge. It is possible to use only one relay if I am correct. You'll have to solder each fan's red wire to the power wire coming from the relay. Use heat shrink tubing on the connection.

Also, for those who don't want to splice into the car's wiring harness or run the add-a-circuit through your fuse box, you can connect the trigger wire (the orange wire from the relay(s)) directly to the terminal with the white w/red stripe wire that goes to the heat exchanger control relay that is bolted to the passenger-side shock tower next to the fuse box.

This is what I have done on my car and it works great.

This post has been edited by secondo: 31 March 2009 - 03:50 PM

[Revan Racing]

secondo, on Mar 31 2009, 07:32 PM, said:

Van if I may add to this:

Per Van each fan uses about 7 amps at start-up and run at 6 amps. The relays I'm assuming are 30 amp rated because they each come with a 30 amp fuse and the wires are 10-gauge. It is possible to use only one relay if I am correct. You'll have to solder each fan's red wire to the power wire coming from the relay. Use heat shrink tubing on the connection.

Also, for those who don't want to splice into the car's wiring harness or run the add-a-circuit through your fuse box, you can connect the trigger wire (the orange wire from the relay(s)) directly to the terminal with the white w/red stripe wire that goes to the heat exchanger control relay that is bolted to the passenger-side shock tower next to the fuse box.

This is what I have done on my car and it works great.

Secondo

The fans are low profile and you should use 15 AMP Blade fuses and not the 30 AMP fuses provided. If you look at the wiring diagram that I sent it says that at the top. No big deal, just switch them out when you get a chance.

You can run one 30 AMP in line fuse if you so choose however it is not recommended. Also, since there is so little draw by the fans if something were to fail in one fan or relay that might trigger a fuse to blow tracking the problem might be more difficult and you could potentially damage something else because of the high ampacity of the 30 AMP blade fuse.

I strongly recommend that you use both in line fuses as provided in the kits along with 15 amp blade fuses.

I have also connected to the trigger underneath the fuse box with a solder connection and it works nicely. My car is so track prepared though I need to be able to get at connections quickly so I try to make it easy on myself for that purpose. Good suggestion.

VC

[Secondo]

Thanks Van, I have the 15 amp fuse but forgot to swap it for the 30 in all my excitement of finishing the install!!

[magilla12]

bump for later, thanks good info.