[Paleoc]

Shelby CS-6 build notes

Critical
Driveshaft: Replacing the driveshaft is something anyone who is upgunning the 4.0 (and the 4.6) should do as the stock 2-piece driveshaft is a heavy, total POS and prone to failure at high speed. 2005 and early 2006 4.0 models are almost guaranteed to fail as they lack retaining clips on the U-joints (the joints work out at high rpms and cause catastrophic failure). Replace it with a one-piece aluminum aftermarket model. NHRA rules require a retaining loop for aftermarket or two-piece (stock) driveshafts. If you install an aftermarket shifter, some of the aftermarket loops may not fit (check before you buy).

You need to buy a full sized spare (20 inch) or keep a tire inflation kit in the car. The stock donut will not fit over the BAER brakes. Some good news, I hear that the donuts sell for good money on eBay.

The brakes have very elaborate instructions for breaking them in. Follow them!
The rotors develop considerable surface rust if the car sits for any length of time. As soon as you drive the car, the pads scrape all the rust off. It just looks horrifying to come out and see your brakes all rusty. But this is really a non-issue. A couple of laps around the block and the rust is all gone.
You must have the optional ABS system for the BAER brakes. (and no, I don't know why).

Trim some of the foam behind the removed stock bumper or the front fascia won't fit on properly.
......................................
Major
Supercharger: Install the oil hoses and hose clamps before installing the supercharger on the car. Once installed, there is insufficient room to add clamps.

Remove the two oddly shaped weights (one each side) on the rear axle. They are each held on by one easily removed bolt. These add nothing but dead, unsprung weight to the car. They are probably originally installed to reduce the rear end bounce. However, switching to the much heavier 20 inch rear wheels more than compensates for the small weights.

Add a shift light. The supercharger makes the rpms spin up at an incredible rate in 1st and 2nd gear and it is too easy to over rev the engine.

Clutch: The clutch will survive for a while but eventually will give out under the power. SPEC and CENTERFORCE both now make performance clutches. When I started there was no performance clutch for the 4.0L engine.

Transmission: The stock T5 manual transmission is rated for a maximum of 300 ft-lbs of torque, easily exceeded by the supercharged V6. It will break eventually if the car is flogged regularly (Shelby broke the one in the first prototype). If you regularly race the car, be prepared. Solutions for a stronger transmission are currently expensive solutions. I will continue to research this. The automatic is a smaller splined version of the one in the GT. While not quite as strong as the GT version (due to the smaller spline) it is probably considerably stronger than the T5 manual. I would strongly recommend installing a transmission cooler for an automatic.

Hood Clearance: The CS6 hood has clearance issues. On mine, it rubbed on an aftermarket plenum cover I installed and worse it rubbed on the top of the Paxton supercharger. You add some washers to the hood mount bolts which will help some. I had the hood scoop area on the underside of the hood cut out to clear the plenum cover and had a small rectangular area cut out where the supercharger was rubbing. The supercharger and the MAF both produce a lot of heat and were melting epoxy out of the fiberglass which dripped a black goo down. In addition to the aforementioned cutouts, I drilled some ½ inch heat relief holes in locations where the goo was melting. I then drilled out some of the holes in the top two rows of fake holes using a drill bit the same size as fake holes in the fake grill on the top of the hood to turn the hood into a heat extraction hood (not 100% efficient but a lot better than nothing). Make sure you keep the holes above the water fill line on the top of the hood. You can establish that by filling the indented corners of the hood with water until it flows over. This establishes how high the water can get before spilling over. Keep your drilled holes above this line.
............................
Moderate
On 2007+ models, the government mandates tire pressure sensors. These are held on to the wheels with what looks like aluminum strapping bands. Changing the wheels requires new bands which are hard to find and expensive. Either ignore the tire pressure alarms (hit reset button) or message me for another solution.

The template for the PIAA lights and front grill supplied by Shelby are not accurate in size. I resized them using my computer. I can supply someone with a set you can print out if you message/email me.
.....................
Minor
Rear Suspension: Aftermarket rear suspension parts are recommended. The stock upper and lower control arms are fine stock but with the added power, beefier parts are recommended. Lowering the car changes the geometry of the lower control arm, the pinion angle of the upper control arm and the centering of the rear axle. I recommend an adjustable upper control arm and adjustable panhard rod at a minimum. When the car is lowered, the panhard will try to push the rear axle to the left, probably about 1/8 inch which is unnoticeable. However, an adjustable panhard rod will allow the rear axle to be properly re-centered (for us perfectionists). In addition, the lower control arm will change angles from stock (pointing down to rear) to (pointing up to rear). This has a negative effect on acceleration. Adding a lower control relocation bracket will restore the correct angle. Adding an adjustable upper control arm will restore the correct pinion angle which affects torque. All these parts should be added at the same as the rear axle is installed which makes for much easier installation. Without these parts the car will still perform well (which is why this is in the minor category) but adding them will slightly improve acceleration and handling.

Oil Cooler: Consider adding an oil cooler. The supercharger produces a lot of heat and can heat soak the engine rather quickly.

Lower Grill: My lower grill arrived well after the car was otherwise finished. The installation instruction would have you disassemble the front of the car to install a cheap (and sharp edged) piece of grill. I put the car on ramps and put it on from underneath and behind the front fascia. It required unbolting the heat exchanger radiator which was easy. The grill did not install fully (it was about ½ inch too tall) so I just bolted in the bottom of it with 4 self-tapping screws and 1 each side which hold it just fine. From the front it looks perfectly correct and keeps rocks out of the radiators.

Spray paint the radiators and radiator mount (butterfly shaped thing) black. Otherwise the aluminum radiators and body colored radiator mount overwhelm the black grill and silver Shelby lettering in front of them and all you see is the radiators. Black also helps the radiators shed heat (see black body radiation).

This post has been edited by Paleoc: 27 January 2008 - 09:14 AM

[circleofsnakes]

Glad this thread came up before I even got a Stang. I'm supposed to call a dealership today. They said they will help me locate the exact car I want. Apparently they have 15 dealerships nationwaide.

[Paleoc]

Paleoc, on Jul 10 2007, 07:51 PM, said:

Shelby CS-6 build notes

Critical
Driveshaft: Replacing the driveshaft is something anyone who is upgunning the 4.0 (and the 4.6) should do as the stock 2-piece driveshaft is a heavy, total POS and prone to failure at high speed. 2005 and early 2006 4.0 models are almost guaranteed to fail as they lack retaining clips on the U-joints (the joints work out at high rpms and cause catastrophic failure). Replace it with a one-piece aluminum aftermarket model. NHRA rules require a retaining loop for aftermarket or two-piece (stock) driveshafts. If you install an aftermarket shifter, some of the aftermarket loops may not fit (check before you buy).

You need to buy a full sized spare (20 inch) or keep a tire inflation kit in the car. The stock donut will not fit over the BAER brakes. Some good news, I hear that the donuts sell for good money on eBay.

The brakes have very elaborate instructions for breaking them in. Follow them!

Trim some of the foam behind the removed stock bumper or the front fascia won't fit on properly.
......................................
Major
Supercharger: Install the oil hoses and hose clamps before installing the supercharger on the car. Once installed, there is insufficient room to add clamps.

Remove the two oddly shaped weights (one each side) on the rear axle. They are each held on by one easily removed bolt. These add nothing but dead, unsprung weight to the car. They are probably originally installed to reduce the rear end bounce. However, switching to the much heavier 20 inch rear wheels more than compensates for the small weights.

Add a shift light. The supercharger makes the rpms spin up at an incredible rate in 1st and 2nd gear and it is too easy to over rev the engine.

Clutch: The clutch will survive for a while but eventually will give out under the power. SPEC and CENTERFORCE both now make performance clutches. When I started there was no performance clutch for the 4.0L engine.

Transmission: The stock T5 manual transmission is rated for a maximum of 300 ft-lbs of torque, easily exceeded by the supercharged V6. It will break eventually if the car is flogged regularly (Shelby broke the one in the first prototype). If you regularly race the car, be prepared. Solutions for a stronger transmission are currently expensive solutions. I will continue to research this. The automatic is a smaller splined version of the one in the GT. While not quite as strong as the GT version (due to the smaller spline) it is probably considerably stronger than the T5 manual. I would strongly recommend installing a transmission cooler for an automatic.

Hood Clearance: The CS6 hood has clearance issues. On mine, it rubbed on an aftermarket plenum cover I installed and worse it rubbed on the top of the Paxton supercharger. You add some washers to the hood mount bolts which will help some. I had the hood scoop area on the underside of the hood cut out to clear the plenum cover and had a small rectangular area cut out where the supercharger was rubbing. The supercharger and the MAF both produce a lot of heat and were melting epoxy out of the fiberglass which dripped a black goo down. In addition to the aforementioned cutouts, I drilled some ½ inch heat relief holes in locations where the goo was melting. I then drilled out some of the holes in the top two rows of fake holes using a drill bit the same size as fake holes in the fake grill on the top of the hood to turn the hood into a heat extraction hood (not 100% efficient but a lot better than nothing). Make sure you keep the holes above the water fill line on the top of the hood. You can establish that by filling the indented corners of the hood with water until it flows over. This establishes how high the water can get before spilling over. Keep your drilled holes above this line.
............................
Moderate
On 2007+ models, the government mandates tire pressure sensors. These are held on to the wheels with what looks like aluminum strapping bands. Changing the wheels requires new bands which are hard to find and expensive. Either ignore the tire pressure alarms (hit reset button) or message me for another solution.

The template for the PIAA lights and front grill supplied by Shelby are not accurate in size. I resized them using my computer. I can supply someone with a set you can print out if you message/email me.
.....................
Minor
Rear Suspension: Aftermarket rear suspension parts are recommended. The stock upper and lower control arms are fine stock but with the added power, beefier parts are recommended. Lowering the car changes the geometry of the lower control arm, the pinion angle of the upper control arm and the centering of the rear axle. I recommend an adjustable upper control arm and panhard rod at a minimum. When the car is lowered, the panhard will try to push the rear axle to the left, probably about 1/8 inch which is unnoticeable. However, an adjustable panhard rod will allow the rear axle to be properly re-centered (for us perfectionists). In addition, the lower control arm will change angles from stock (pointing down to rear) to (pointing up to rear). This has a negative effect on acceleration. Adding a lower control relocation bracket will restore the correct angle. Adding an adjustable upper control arm will restore the correct pinion angle which affects torque. All these parts should be added at the same as the rear axle is installed which makes for much easier installation. Without these parts the car will still perform well (which is why this is in the minor category) but adding them will slightly improve acceleration and handling.

Oil Cooler: Consider adding an oil cooler. The supercharger produces a lot of heat and can heat soak the engine rather quickly.

Lower Grill: My lower grill arrived well after the car was otherwise finished. The installation instruction would have you disassemble the front of the car to install a cheap (and sharp edged) piece of grill. I put the car on ramps and put it on from underneath and behind the front fascia. It required unbolting the heat exchanger radiator which was easy. The grill did not install fully (it was about ½ inch too tall) so I just bolted in the bottom of it with 4 self-tapping screws and 1 each side which hold it just fine. From the front it looks perfectly correct and keeps rocks out of the radiators.

K-frame brace & torque limiters: Added a K-frame brace and torque limiters. The torque limiters connect the K-frame brace to the bell housing (which is why I needed the K-frame brace). The torque limiters keep the transmission and engine from twisting under high load. Without them, the shifter which is attached to the frame at one end and the transmission at the other end twists under high load and it becomes very difficult to shift into 3rd gear. The K-frame brace ties the lower frame together much like a shock tower brace does with the upper frame. I got this kit primarily for the torque limiters after I kept missing 2nd - 3rd shifts. The torque limiters have basically solved that problem. However, I find with the K-frame brace the car handles bumps in the road with less drama (banging and jarring). In addition, the exhaust rattles less at idle problem due to the engine being allowed to vibrate less.

[07SGT0057]

Hi Paleoc,

thanks for posting this up. I have an SGT and I will be putting on the CS6 hood. My SGT has no supercharger, so will this be an easy fit?

[GPStang06_merged]

07SGT0057, on Nov 19 2007, 07:56 PM, said:

Hi Paleoc,

thanks for posting this up. I have an SGT and I will be putting on the CS6 hood. My SGT has no supercharger, so will this be an easy fit?

You should be OK over the stock manifold but you may have an issue with the strut tower brace (the SGT has one correct)? This hood originally started on the GT-H which still has the stock manifold with no SC. Not sure if those have a strut tower brace though.

[Grim22_merged]

Thanks Paleoc I am ordering the CS6 turn2 kit this week, for my 07 V6, and this information is very useful. I was planning on getting a CHE on piece aluminum drive shaft, but I did not think about rear upper and lower control arms, and K-brace. CHE also make these for the mustang V6 should these wok.

[diablito]

Paleoc, on Jul 10 2007, 06:51 PM, said:

Shelby CS-6 build notes

Critical

You need to buy a full sized spare (20 inch) or keep a tire inflation kit in the car. The stock donut will not fit over the BAER brakes. Some good news, I hear that the donuts sell for good money on eBay.

All you need to do is to buy a wheel spacer. Even though i have a 04 mustang cobra i installed a brembo 4 piston calipers and had to use a 1 1/2 wheel spacer to clear the brakes.

This post has been edited by diablito: 27 January 2008 - 08:07 AM

[Paleoc]

07SGT0057, on Nov 19 2007, 07:56 PM, said:

Hi Paleoc,

thanks for posting this up. I have an SGT and I will be putting on the CS6 hood. My SGT has no supercharger, so will this be an easy fit?

There is another whole thread someone on this site discussing the CS6 hood on a SGT.

[scrapp]

I am finally about to take my car in to have the fascias put on when the snow and ice go away . Is there any other notes I can pass on to ,the person that is going to put them on. And if i were to put different coil springs, on and level the car out, would that throw any thing else out when I do that, I am thinking of eibach , or ford racing springs, which might be better, .

scrapp

[Paleoc]

scrapp, on Mar 6 2008, 05:38 PM, said:

I am finally about to take my car in to have the fascias put on when the snow and ice go away . Is there any other notes I can pass on to ,the person that is going to put them on. And if i were to put different coil springs, on and level the car out, would that throw any thing else out when I do that, I am thinking of eibach , or ford racing springs, which might be better, .

scrapp

It's my understanding that FRPP and Eibach Pro Kit parts are the same (manufactured for Ford). I have Eibach sportlines which are lower and rougher so they (sportlines) are probably not the best choice for the street. Both will lower the car (FRPP/Pro 1.5 inches - Sportlines 2 inches). Lowering the car effects the geometry of the suspension. In most cases the effects on driveability are relatively minor (in most cases you probably wouldn't notice them) but in the interest of completeness, here they are:

Changes the geometry of the rear axle (thrust angle) - corrected with an adjustable upper control arm
Changes the angle of the lower control arms - corrected with a lower control arm relocation bracket
Moves the rear axle slightly to the left - corrected with an adjustable panhard rod
Affects the front bump steer suspension geometry - corrected with a bump steer kit

[Paleoc]

SHELBYCS6, on Mar 7 2008, 06:39 AM, said:

I thought the Ford struts & shocks were made by Tokimec ?

From: http://www.allfordmu...ing-kit-vs.html

"Update....Finally got in touch with Eibach....The FRPP springs ARE the same as the Eibach Pro Kit acording to their Tech guys."

If you use your car as a daily driver or the local roads are rough, sportlines are definitely not the way to go.

This post has been edited by Paleoc: 07 March 2008 - 04:41 AM

[scrapp]

SHELBYCS6, on Mar 7 2008, 12:05 PM, said:

Thanks for the info...

The pro -kit would be about the best way go . it is not an dialy driver,. it is my weekend driver, after driving an old truck all week,

[scrapp]

wanting to know if I were to go with 17-8 ford racing wheels, and went with stock tires , and then put , eibach pro springs on later, would I have an clerance issue ,with tires rubbing ,or hitting the fenders. Or should I go with lower profile tire wright off.Should I put the springs in and just changed the pan hard bar , would that bind the rear end up .

[Paleoc]

scrapp, on Mar 11 2008, 05:16 PM, said:

wanting to know if I were to go with 17-8 ford racing wheels, and went with stock tires , and then put , eibach pro springs on later, would I have an clerance issue ,with tires rubbing ,or hitting the fenders. Or should I go with lower profile tire wright off.Should I put the springs in and just changed the pan hard bar , would that bind the rear end up .

The fenders on the mustangs are rolled. The pro springs are fine. All the Shelby GTs have them (same as FRPP springs) which don't rub. You also need aftermarket (pro) dampers & struts. With stock dampers/struts the dampers/shocks and struts can't keep up with the higher spring rate and the car will be bouncy.

Profile of the tires is tied to the size of the tire and the width. A 35 series tire is 35% x width of the tire = side wall height x 2 side walls + wheel size = tire height. A 255/35ZR20 is 255mm/25.4mm/inch x .35 = 3.5 inches sidewall height x 2 sidewalls + 20 inch wheels = 27 inch tire. Mustangs come with 27 inch tire height stock. So with a 17 wheel with 255 tire width you want a 50 series tire which gives you 27 inch tire height. So the wheel size is unimportant assuming you match the tire series profile correctly.

This post has been edited by Paleoc: 11 March 2008 - 06:50 PM

[scrapp]

just wanting to know if you are going to the Ford - Shelby meet in Talsa -oklahoma, in June ., Thank you for the info on the car parts and things , this is the first car i have done.
thank you.

[Paleoc]

Replaced the 3.25 inch pulley with a 2.87 inch pulley and replaced the Vortech intercooler heat exchanger with a Fluidyne one about twice the size. 325rwhp ~ 380 hp at the crank.