[chuckstang]

Some may remember I posted a video showing off my new SLPs and at the end of the video, there was a loud bang.

Found out what that loud bang was and just in time because I was considering driving it to the Ford dealer myself.

I don't know how dangerous or not it would be to drive the car like it is now but there could be more damage that I don't know about. The car is sitting at Ford and just waiting now on the verdict.

Here is the video

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=Sz8-qQqIDsc

(the donuts you see in the vid are all that was done, no more and no less. The last donut was prior to the first breaking. Some scenes are not in order as I chaned things up during editing of the video)

Here is the pic of what I found today before backing the car out of the garage.





Hmmmm, that ain't right.

Broke right at the welds, and hoping no other damage. The bad news, JDM or Saleen will not warranty this obvious manufactures defect. My only options are to either scrap the whole thing or pay $100 for new link arms (assuming that is all I need).

What should I do? Most vendors on here that I see back the products they sell and I feel that this is just not right as it was a manufactures defect (bad weld over the powder coating). JDM agrees with me but nothing anyone can do apparently and I guess the current state or lack there of of whats left of Saleen Inc does not help.

So I will pay the $100 for new link arms if anyone is interested in a Saleen Watts. The unit has less than a year and 3k miles on it, no track time, just some donuts obviously.

This is for all the Watts link nutswingers out there. I just want to say, "I told you so." (this is just all in good fun, so please don't get offended, I just need a little laugh and entertainment to go along with my misfortune!)

For those with this system, I would just be careful and check your bushins every so often and check the spot welds on your link arms at both ends and make sure the weld is under the black power coating or red if you didnt order from JDM.

So as of right now, the car is getting the Roush Adj Panhard, FRPP Diff Cover and FRPP 373 gears

This post has been edited by chuckstang: 25 February 2009 - 12:32 PM

[03 DSG Snake]

I knew it wasn't the FRPP pieces

Another fine example of Saleen quality.





Rip that puppy off and replace it with something better.

[blkGT500nCA]

you MUST have killed little babies in a former life. I've never read about someone having more problems than you. I'd sell the car.

[68fastback]

There's your problem!

Glad you fouind it, Chuck. Well, $100 bucks isn't so bad for the part. -Dan

[LSXKILLER]

Chuck why didn't you just take it to a welder or a fab shop? Would have been cheaper and faster.

[blkGT500nCA]

LSXKILLER, on Feb 25 2009, 12:41 PM, said:

Chuck why didn't you just take it to a welder or a fab shop? Would have been cheaper and faster.

+1 that probably would have been 50 bones tops.

edit: and then it would have been "custom"

This post has been edited by blkGT500nCA: 25 February 2009 - 12:44 PM

[shelby001]

Looking at the photo it was not welded all the way around & there doesn`t appear to be good penetration . Remove it take to a good welding shop & have it welded , these things happen.

[KiefferGT500]

Wow.

I thought my BMR panhard brace was overkill but looks like there is some pretty good stress there afterall.

[07SGT4578]

shelby001, on Feb 25 2009, 05:02 PM, said:

Looking at the photo it was not welded all the way around & there doesn`t appear to be good penetration . Remove it take to a good welding shop & have it welded , these things happen.

+1 I would say any decent welding shop could fix this right up for less than 20 duckets.

Chris

[GR40Freak]

KiefferGT500, on Feb 25 2009, 01:13 PM, said:

Wow.

I thought my BMR panhard brace was overkill but looks like there is some pretty good stress there afterall.

It is overkill.. Sure there's lots of stress there.. Ford knows that. The brace is completely unnecessary I'm sorry to say.

As for chuckstang's pictures. That is just poor quality manufacturing.. period. I love how they charge $100 for another set of arms and won't warranty anything.

Chuckstang, your new setup will be better (strangely enough) than what you are removing. A good panhard setup is hard to beat. Some of the Watts Links out there are just plain ridiculous.

Watts Links.. with bushings...bad welds and made in China. Nice quality part there.


Colin Sebern
Griggs Racing

This post has been edited by GR40Freak: 25 February 2009 - 01:57 PM

[KiefferGT500]

Not common but happens...

Attached File(s)

•  bent.jpg (25.09K)
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This post has been edited by KiefferGT500: 25 February 2009 - 02:11 PM

[chuckstang]

GR40Freak, on Feb 25 2009, 04:50 PM, said:

It is overkill.. Sure there's lots of stress there.. Ford knows that. The brace is completely unnecessary I'm sorry to say.

As for chuckstang's pictures. That is just poor quality manufacturing.. period. I love how they charge $100 for another set of arms and won't warranty anything.

Chuckstang, your new setup will be better (strangely enough) than what you are removing. A good panhard setup is hard to beat. Some of the Watts Links out there are just plain ridiculous.

Watts Links.. with bushings...bad welds and made in China. Nice quality part there.


Colin Sebern
Griggs Racing

I should have gone Griggs from the start. Unfortunately, I don't have the cash right now to go back to remove everything with Griggs stuff. Replacing this with a good solid panhard is just the cheapest and easiest thing to do. The panhard I am going with uses spherical rod ends, no cheap rubber bushings so hopefully this will be a move in the right direction.

I know many say just weld it back up, but there is no way I am putting this POS back in my car.

Thanks for the reply

[GR40Freak]

chuckstang, on Feb 25 2009, 02:08 PM, said:

I should have gone Griggs from the start. Unfortunately, I don't have the cash right now to go back to remove everything with Griggs stuff. Replacing this with a good solid panhard is just the cheapest and easiest thing to do. The panhard I am going with uses spherical rod ends, no cheap rubber bushings so hopefully this will be a move in the right direction.

I know many say just weld it back up, but there is no way I am putting this POS back in my car.

Thanks for the reply

No need to remove everything.. piece by piece on these cars is very doable. But I like the components you choose to replace your ummm "Watts Link"

Just FYI my Panhard bar (w/spherical rods ends) is only $159 and the hiems I use are made to a specific breakaway torque just for us. It comes with a warranty. We also only use the highest quality aluminum for the arm itself, remember that you get what you pay for.

http://www.griggsrac...products_id=141

I love your response about not having it welded back up.. Yeah NO WAY.. I would have completely lost faith in the part that had the small task of KEEPING THE REAR END IN MY CAR!!! Its funny because I'm the first person to tell people that they do NOT need a Watts Link unless they want the bling factor or are taking their car to the track regularly.

Colin Sebern
Griggs Racing

This post has been edited by GR40Freak: 25 February 2009 - 03:17 PM

[chuckstang]

Thanks Colin.

Would you recommend using an aftermarket (better than stock) panhard bar brace or just reusing the cheap thing that came from the factory?

I had a heavy duty one on there that came with the Saleen Watts but that will come off with the rest of it. LOL

I keep thinking to myself, what would have happened to the car if this arm snapped while taking a 120mph sweeper on a real track. OUCH!

[GR40Freak]

chuckstang, on Feb 25 2009, 02:27 PM, said:

Thanks Colin.

Would you recommend using an aftermarket (better than stock) panhard bar brace or just reusing the cheap thing that came from the factory?

I had a heavy duty one on there that came with the Saleen Watts but that will come off with the rest of it. LOL

I keep thinking to myself, what would have happened to the car if this arm snapped while taking a 120mph sweeper on a real track. OUCH!

The stock one actually works just fine.

I just watched the video, that's crazy, you were just doing donuts on cold pavement with cold street tires!! Just insane that it broke. I thought the same thing you did.. Turn 10 @ Infineon at 100MPH, you would have been seriously injured or even killed.

My God. Let's be glad that it broke when it did.


Colin Sebern
Griggs Racing

This post has been edited by GR40Freak: 25 February 2009 - 02:37 PM

[KingCobra666]

If its any consulation, your car sounds excellent!

KC666

[LuckySnake]

GR40Freak, on Feb 25 2009, 04:20 PM, said:

No need to remove everything.. piece by piece on these cars is very doable. But I like the components you choose to replace your ummm "Watts Link"

Just FYI my Panhard bar (w/spherical rods ends) is only $159 and the hiems I use are made to a specific breakaway torque just for us. It comes with a warranty. We also only use the highest quality aluminum for the arm itself, remember that you get what you pay for.

http://www.griggsrac...products_id=141

I love your response about not having it welded back up.. Yeah NO WAY.. I would have completely lost faith in the part that had the small task of KEEPING THE REAR END IN MY CAR!!! Its funny because I'm the first person to tell people that they do NOT need a Watts Link unless they want the bling factor or are taking their car to the track regularly.

Colin Sebern
Griggs Racing

I don't take my car to the track at all, and the installed FAYs2 Watts Link is a nice improvement that is very noticeable. The car had an adjustable panhard rod that was adjusted correctly before the Fays2, there is a night and day differense even while switching lanes to pass another car. The car feels much better under acceleration in straight lines and turns with the Watts Link. The average person would never even visualy notice a Watts Link installed to a car, so I'm not in agreement about the "bling" factor.
The Fays2 provides good bang for the buck and is made from quality materials here in the U.S.
Not saying Griggs isn't a very good system, I am saying Fays2 works excellent. Jim Fays has an excellent reputation and is available 7 days a week.

This post has been edited by LuckySnake: 25 February 2009 - 08:23 PM

[Nitro]

I'm not in the habit of promoting peoples products on the web usually, but I can tell you that the Griggs components are hands down top quality and engineering. I recently had the opportunity to visit their facility and take a test drive in one of their late model mustangs. To say the handling was impressive would be an understatement. Getting to see the cars up close up on the lift and examining the components first hand gives you a much better understanding of the quality and engineering that goes into their products. The ride was incredible and the cornering ability was unlike anything I have ever experienced in a mustang. Just the fact that they could make a car that weighs what our mustangs weigh handle the way it did was very impressive. I haven't done the suspension on my car yet, but when I do, I know where I'll be buying my parts.

[LuckySnake]

Nitro, on Feb 25 2009, 11:27 PM, said:

I'm not in the habit of promoting peoples products on the web usually, but I can tell you that the Griggs components are hands down top quality and engineering. I recently had the opportunity to visit their facility and take a test drive in one of their late model mustangs. To say the handling was impressive would be an understatement. Getting to see the cars up close up on the lift and examining the components first hand gives you a much better understanding of the quality and engineering that goes into their products. The ride was incredible and the cornering ability was unlike anything I have ever experienced in a mustang. Just the fact that they could make a car that weighs what our mustangs weigh handle the way it did was very impressive. I haven't done the suspension on my car yet, but when I do, I know where I'll be buying my parts.

If a product that works great on my GT500, I'll tell other people. The Fays2 was installed on my car by myself for a total cost of about $700. I can personaly say the Fays2 made a huge difference at an affordable price. The Fays2 has made sense for many winning racers but more important to me is that it's affordable for my street car. You can not beat Jim Fays reputation and service.
I would really like to see a comparison of track times of like GT500 s, one with full blown Griggs and the other with a simple Fays2/FRPP set up.
Another nice thing about the Fay2/FRPP is the owners ability to easily go back to stock in a few hours at home.
I think a guy considering improving his suspension would like to know you don't have to break the bank to have a mustang that handles good.

[GT500Tow]

GR40Freak, on Feb 25 2009, 05:20 PM, said:

No need to remove everything.. piece by piece on these cars is very doable. But I like the components you choose to replace your ummm "Watts Link"

Just FYI my Panhard bar (w/spherical rods ends) is only $159 and the hiems I use are made to a specific breakaway torque just for us. It comes with a warranty. We also only use the highest quality aluminum for the arm itself, remember that you get what you pay for.

http://www.griggsrac...products_id=141

I love your response about not having it welded back up.. Yeah NO WAY.. I would have completely lost faith in the part that had the small task of KEEPING THE REAR END IN MY CAR!!! Its funny because I'm the first person to tell people that they do NOT need a Watts Link unless they want the bling factor or are taking their car to the track regularly.

Colin Sebern
Griggs Racing

Your not the first. I tried to tell them months ago. A Lot of sales people on here. Fact is you can make your car handle good with 80 bucks worth of bushings, good panhard and shocks. Then it'll handle better then most can drive it. For sure better then Chuck,,,,