[regalt87]

I am doing a Super Snake hood for a friend of mine and I thought I would include the paint prep and paint step by step for any one who is interested.
Impression of the hood is that it is a quality piece. Much better than other fiberglass hoods that I have done over the years. I do not know what kind of primer Shelby used but guessing by the way it sanded it was similar to a catalyzed high build possibly a epoxy. They were generous with the amount or primer also. There were 2 little cracks in the front that I ground out and added resin. This is not unusual to see as this happens sometimes during shipping. This has to be repaired as the paint will not fill and seal them.

The first step was to rough fit the hood. The after market hood hinges (I believe they were Shelby) spaced the hood too far up on one side to use. we went back to the factory hinges as I believe Shelby does any way. I had to repair a slight imperfection at the corner.

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This post has been edited by regalt87: 17 May 2009 - 09:00 AM

[regalt87]

The crack

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This post has been edited by regalt87: 17 May 2009 - 09:03 AM

[regalt87]

The crack with resin

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[regalt87]

Slight imperfection that I used a small amount of bondo and block sanded.

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[regalt87]

Ready to prime.

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[regalt87]

I use the NCP primer. It is about $300.00 per gallon including the catylist. The reason I use this is that it sands well wet or dry and minimizes shrinkage unlike others that can lift scratches a couple months later. It is not a sealer but seems to work about the same. I only sprayed the trouble spots as the rest of the hood had an adequate amount of primer that blocked with 320 grit very well. I never apply paint over 320 grit as it is too course. later I will apply a sealer over the entire hood and sand that with 400 grit.
I recommend 500 for single stage paints.
The top side of this hood will be base clear which has quite a bit of millage and is fine when 3 coats are applied.
The under side of this hood will be single stage as it will get some air brush customization and then a clear coat. I am sorry but the owner has requested that I do not disclose more about this until it is done. But I will and you will love it, it's really neat.

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This post has been edited by regalt87: 17 May 2009 - 09:37 AM

[regalt87]

The next step is to give it a slight coat of cheap lacquer based primer that I use as a guide coat. The purpose of this is when you block sand the dark red primer stays in the low spot or scratch. It allows you to work that spot a little harder. Almost all of this sands off.

This step is a very important easy procedure that makes your block sanding show quality. This is also a easy procedure that you can do with aerosol primers at home although I do not recommend them for any thing other than a light coat to be used as a sanding guide.

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This post has been edited by regalt87: 18 May 2009 - 09:51 AM

[regalt87]

I will include more pics and progress later as I have to go look at a friends daughters car. The girl ran into the back of her mom. This is her second crash in less than two years. I also have a different friends mom coming in next week. Last year I repaired the back quarter panel and now it's time for a left front fender and bumper. I love repeat customers. I will post tomorrow.

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This post has been edited by regalt87: 17 May 2009 - 09:40 AM

[richard m.switzer]

regalt87, on May 17 2009, 12:25 PM, said:

I will include more pics and progress later as I have to go look at a friends daughters car. The girl ran into the back of her mom. This is her second crash in less than two years. I also have a different friends mom coming in next week. Last year I repaired the back quarter panel and now it's time for a left front fender. I love repeat customers. I will post tomorrow.

looks good ,,can't wait to see more thanks for sharing,,PLEASE let us all know how it comes out.

[2006GT500]

It's amazing the difference in that hood and the one I received a year ago. That hood is way better.

[regalt87]

The underside of the hood was sanded with 320 and will be coated with epoxy sealer for a base color and sealer which will hold back most of the scratches.

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[regalt87]

The importance of a oil- water separator can not be overemphasized. Years ago I did a high dollar job and got moisture between the sealer and paint. The sealer did what it was supposed to do, it sealed it in. After the clear was sanded and 3 stage buffed (about 3 days) and sat out in the sun the moisture expanded into little dust size bumps. I had to strip the entire car down to the sealer (where I found the moisture) and repaint it all over again. (about another week) As you can imagine that job was not profitable and this was very frustrating.

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[regalt87]

The epoxy 2 coats.

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[regalt87]

The paint I like to use is the PPG Deltron series. I have some very long lasting jobs out there that have held up very well. Some of your cheaper clear coats only have a 3-6 year life span.

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[regalt87]

Three coats single stage for the underside. It came out great, only a couple specs of dust that after the job leaves I won't be able to see from my house. It has to sit a couple of days and kick so that I can flip it and do the top side. By the way sanding, sealing and painting the vents were a pain in the butt.

Back in a couple days.

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[lhj775]

regalt87, on May 18 2009, 09:36 PM, said:

Three coats single stage for the underside. It came out great, only a couple specs of dust that after the job leaves I won't be able to see from my house. It has to sit a couple of days and kick so that I can flip it and do the top side. By the way sanding, sealing and painting the vents were a pain in the butt.

Back in a couple days.

Hey Scott give me a call when your ready to put the hood on the car. That way you'll have another pair of hands to make sure nothing gets scraped!!

[mrfarmdog]

regalt87, on May 18 2009, 09:36 PM, said:

Three coats single stage for the underside. It came out great, only a couple specs of dust that after the job leaves I won't be able to see from my house. It has to sit a couple of days and kick so that I can flip it and do the top side. By the way sanding, sealing and painting the vents were a pain in the butt.

Back in a couple days.

I thought the SS vents came painted flat black and ready to install?

[regalt87]

No they did not. They were bare aluminum and a real bummer to sand and prep.

[regalt87]

lhj775, on May 22 2009, 08:13 AM, said:

Hey Scott give me a call when your ready to put the hood on the car. That way you'll have another pair of hands to make sure nothing gets scraped!!

Yes I will call you and you can bring a case of Mick ultra and we can turn it in to a party!!!

[mrfarmdog]

regalt87, on May 22 2009, 10:27 AM, said:

No they did not. They were bare aluminum and a real bummer to sand and prep.

I believe they are now offering them ready to install at SPP. They did not have a pic but that is what the descrition said stating "new and improved"