[SVOC]

Take the battery out of the tray, and remove the tray from the vehicle.


Get an idea where you want the battery and make sure you have the room for mounting


Next after marking and drilling the hols for the battery hold down/box studs, mark and drill the holes in the floor on the trunk area


Assemble the box as it would be in the car, and mount in the trunk through the hole you previously drilled


Then move to the front, and clip off the original battery terminals, and strip the casing back for the new lugs


The reason I used lugs instead of a union is it can be easily returned to somewhat stock if need be, now crimp on your new lugs for this conversion




Make sure they are good and secure fitting

[SVOC]

Obviously I'm doing this for both positive and negitive




Be sure to heat shrink any area that may be exposed








Next I went and got 18 feet (each cable) of 2/0 cable to run from the trunk to where the battery used to be, and crimped again lugs at one end and the correct positive and negative terminals to these new cables, AFTER PRE-MEASURING THE RIGHT LENGTH, positive was longer than the negative.


The customer was also said he wanted the new cables color coded so he knew which was which, so I used colored heat shrink

[SVOC]

Now that I have run the cables and made all the connections, I took some more split core casing and covered them, and wrapped everything with electrical tape, for this customer, I ran the battery cables through the passenger side interior of the vehicle, some may prefer to run them under the vehicle, just be sure you secure the cables to the vehicle very well if your going to run them under the outside, in this case the owner spends more time off the road than on the road, so inside was a better choice (FORD = For Off Road Driving)




Remove the space saver tab that slide out of the battery tray and cut down the ramps at the far end for the larger intercooler tank


Locate and mark where you need to cut the tray for the drain petcock on the tank


And remove this insult for a cooling tank and pitch it in the trash!!!!!!!!!!!


Before you discard that worthless piece of junk, take the fittings out of it and clean the threads and put new teflon tape on them


CAREFULLY thread them into the new tank and tighten them up

This post has been edited by SVOC: 22 August 2009 - 06:15 PM

[SVOC]

You will have to extend one of the hoses (top intercooler hose) and then besure to refill with your systems favorite beverage



Here's the battery, with the lid off

This post has been edited by SVOC: 22 August 2009 - 01:27 PM

[check6]

Great write-up and very easy to follow pics...who makes the new cooling tank?

[SPRSNK]

check6, on Aug 22 2009, 08:35 PM, said:

Great write-up and very easy to follow pics...who makes the new cooling tank?

Moroso. It's the battery replacement tank for the GT500.

Damn picky customers wanting things color coded

[SPRSNK]

Next up...new headers

[SVOC]

POP!!! went little Bunny Foo Foo!

This post has been edited by SVOC: 23 August 2009 - 07:57 AM

[ingram4868]

Great project. That is one heck of a crimping tool.

[SVOC]

ingram4868, on Aug 22 2009, 09:08 PM, said:

Great project. That is one heck of a crimping tool.

And a hell of an expensive one at that, to the tune of about $400

[check6]

SPRSNK, on Aug 22 2009, 07:02 PM, said:

Moroso. It's the battery replacement tank for the GT500.

Cool...thanks....I really enjoy your write-ups and can't wait for your header project!

[Tob]

So the crimped 'lugs' were just heat shrinked, and wrapped with tape? I don't see a shot of what you did with the lugs after they were crimped...

Having done battery relocating before, I used insulated firewall connections from Moroso to allow the cables to penetrate the firewall
 Morosolugs.jpg (28.5K)
Number of downloads: 11

I'm also no fan of 'crimp only' connections. Eventually, resistance will build up at this juncture. As much as the owner may have the desire to return the vehicle back to stock, I'd have tried to convince him/her that they could always just purchase the OEM 'lugged' stock cable. Especially with full battery power running through these cables. I like to tin the cable first, as well as fill the lug with silver solder, then immerse the cable into the lug before the solder cools. You can always add heat and re-seat the cable if you didn't get the desired depth. I then crimp the lug in a vise for safety/overkill.
 zfillinglugwithsolder.jpg (19.84K)
Number of downloads: 12

To ensure you haven't disturbed the integrity of the heat shrink, it is advisable to use a heat gun as opposed to a flame source on the heat shrink as well.
 zheatgunonheatshrink.jpg (20.16K)
Number of downloads: 10

A rated cutoff switch is a good idea as well, as I'm sure no one here would want to see their pride and joy go down in flames. They can be hidden or positioned as necessary if you are regulated by a sanctioning body. On one of my fox bodied cars I hid it
 zcutoffswitch.jpg (23.86K)
Number of downloads: 12

In addition, it isn't a bad idea to use a circuit breaker when relocating either. I have successfully used a 200 amp fuse instead of a CB (just remember to keep a spare in the glovebox , JIC) to avoid a meltdown in case of an accident that causes a short in the cable somewhere
 z200ampfuse.jpg (28.19K)
Number of downloads: 12
 200ampfusebox.jpg (18.98K)
Number of downloads: 9

Not a bad time to upgrade to a more powerful battery either. I've used Optima's in the past with great success. Nice thing about their cell type is that you don't have to be concerned with venting like you do a stock battery ( I saw no mention of venting in this writeup either).

Tob