Car Trailer, Need Advise
#1
Posted 14 October 2009 - 01:03 AM
#2
Posted 14 October 2009 - 02:12 AM
gth0007, on Oct 14 2009, 04:03 AM, said:
IMO you want at least a 16.5' for your 65. I put my 71 on a 16.5 and the back end of the car had to hang over about 18" because of weight distribution, I decided not to tow the 71 with a 16.5 and will go with at least an 18". I think the 65 would work great on 16.5. Also I wouldn't trust anyones word on the condition of the bearings on a used trailer, make sure you check yourself or have them checked before towing.
#3
Posted 14 October 2009 - 07:22 AM
#4
Posted 14 October 2009 - 10:18 AM
#5
Posted 15 October 2009 - 03:08 AM
LuckySnake, on Oct 14 2009, 06:12 AM, said:
Thanks, this is the type of advice I'm wanting. The bearings check is especially a good suggestion.
#6
Posted 15 October 2009 - 03:10 AM
stormeaston, on Oct 14 2009, 11:22 AM, said:
My son already has asked how big of trailer am I wanting, he has a 1964 Impala SS he's restoring. It looks like at least an 18 ft. is the way to go. thanks again.
#7
Posted 15 October 2009 - 03:22 AM
sportscars, on Oct 14 2009, 02:18 PM, said:
The truck is a 1999 F-150 Ford Work Truck with 60,000 miles. Mostly the towing will be short hauls in Florida which doesn't have any hills. The plan is to replace the truck at some point if I decide to vintage race the 1965 Mustang. (1965 Mustang fastback, near exact clone to an R-model Shelby, Cobra Automotive driveline including race prepped 302 with 417 HP, Toploader 4 spd, 9inch Detroit locker with 3.89 gears, Plexi windows, and all R-Model body, trim mods. )
#8
Posted 19 October 2009 - 11:39 PM
Going racing you will end up mounting a box on the front for tie-downs, jack stands, etc. That will eat up at least 1.5' of floor length. It also works as a stone guard. Probably a tire rack above it as well.
I would get a 15" rim. That way you can upgrade to a 235 load range E tire when you put new shoes on it. See all the trailer weight I added in the previous parapgraph?
Double axle brakes are mandatory.
Removeable fender to help you get in and out when opening the door.
Tom
#9
Posted 20 October 2009 - 01:01 AM
tomshep, on Oct 20 2009, 03:39 AM, said:
Going racing you will end up mounting a box on the front for tie-downs, jack stands, etc. That will eat up at least 1.5' of floor length. It also works as a stone guard. Probably a tire rack above it as well.
I would get a 15" rim. That way you can upgrade to a 235 load range E tire when you put new shoes on it. See all the trailer weight I added in the previous parapgraph?
Double axle brakes are mandatory.
Removeable fender to help you get in and out when opening the door.
Tom
Thanks Tom, I think I will be adding a V-8 pick up also.
#10
Posted 22 October 2009 - 08:16 AM
One design flaw in mine is the wheel well is right where the door needs to open after you have pulled up on to the trailer. Some times I have had to climb out the window to get out of the car.
This post has been edited by regalt87: 22 October 2009 - 08:19 AM
#11
Posted 23 October 2009 - 02:18 AM
regalt87, on Oct 22 2009, 12:16 PM, said:
One design flaw in mine is the wheel well is right where the door needs to open after you have pulled up on to the trailer. Some times I have had to climb out the window to get out of the car.
Winch and removeable fenders sound good. I live in Central Florida (rural Tavares, 25 miles from Orlando) so if you know anyone with a trailer for sale please let me know. thanks, Larry
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