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Wheel hop?

#1 User is offline   FiaCobra 

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Posted 15 October 2009 - 09:01 AM

Do the Kr's suffer from the same condition as the regular GT-500's when it comes to rear wheel hop?

And what is so different about the suspension from the KR vs the GT-500 ?
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#2 User is offline   txcobra 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 02:21 PM

I dunno on the wheel hop...I haven't lit em up yet (only 80 miles on her).
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#3 User is offline   FiaCobra 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 02:58 PM

View Posttxcobra, on Oct 16 2009, 06:21 PM, said:

I dunno on the wheel hop...I haven't lit em up yet (only 80 miles on her).


What are you waiting for?

I went sideways out of the dealership in my GT500. Plan on doing the same with the KR....lol
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#4 User is offline   Bit_Surfer 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 03:31 PM

View PostFiaCobra, on Oct 16 2009, 05:58 PM, said:

What are you waiting for?

I went sideways out of the dealership in my GT500. Plan on doing the same with the KR....lol



I was told there is no break-in period. I scoured the information provided with the car and the only thing was the 5 continuous miles or 50 cold to warm start ups. Have I been misguided?
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#5 User is offline   txcobra 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 03:40 PM

Well it is is a widely debated topic for sure...I am not babying the car by any means, but I have not pushed it really hard yet either. (just in case there is a break in period).
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#6 User is offline   FiaCobra 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 03:43 PM

Everyone has an opinion on break in. I kinda drove the car hard since day 1 and had no problems. I was lead to believe you need to build up some boost in order to help seat the piston rings....That info is somewhere on the net. Do a search on breaking in a supercharged engine.
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#7 User is offline   Bit_Surfer 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 04:05 PM

View PostFiaCobra, on Oct 16 2009, 06:43 PM, said:

Everyone has an opinion on break in. I kinda drove the car hard since day 1 and had no problems. I was lead to believe you need to build up some boost in order to help seat the piston rings....That info is somewhere on the net. Do a search on breaking in a supercharged engine.



I've had mine on the wood several times now although I will admit that I put 200 on her yesterday before I did it. I have not experienced any wheel hop but I also had TCS engaged and I do not know what effects that has. Plus I have not tried to launch the car hard just yet. Give me another 300 miles and I'll launch her hard and let you know. I see a set of slicks and skinnies in this car's future.

I still can't get over how that Eaton blower whines under load... LOL! I love it!
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#8 User is offline   shelby001 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 04:07 PM

View PostFiaCobra, on Oct 16 2009, 07:43 PM, said:

Everyone has an opinion on break in. I kinda drove the car hard since day 1 and had no problems. I was lead to believe you need to build up some boost in order to help seat the piston rings....That info is somewhere on the net. Do a search on breaking in a supercharged engine.


Try to understand that the rings, bearing fits are all new & have close clearance so will generate more heat . I would drive it for a few miles before really pounding it for any length of time. This will allow the rings to seat & bearings to run in . Just my opinion
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#9 User is offline   txcobra 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 04:11 PM

My thoughts exactly.
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#10 User is offline   FiaCobra 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 04:14 PM

Like I said, everyone has opinions. I've built a few engines and pretty much break them in the same way.

Ok, now that we're on the subject, at what mile interval do you do your 1st oil change at?
You'll see a lot of different answers here.
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#11 User is offline   txcobra 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 04:18 PM

I do it at 1K miles first, then every 3K after.
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#12 User is offline   frydguy79 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 06:08 PM

same problems as a 500, you need control arms!!
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#13 User is offline   dennis429 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 06:09 PM

View PostFiaCobra, on Oct 15 2009, 12:01 PM, said:

Do the Kr's suffer from the same condition as the regular GT-500's when it comes to rear wheel hop?

And what is so different about the suspension from the KR vs the GT-500 ?


I have gotting on it pretty hard and have not had any wheel hop it will just spin. Do not let having the traction control fool you it has been changed from Shelby I have not been able to tell the difference with it on or off. I did have wheel hop with my GT-500 it did get better when I lowered it.
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#14 User is offline   dennis429 

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Posted 16 October 2009 - 06:10 PM

View PostFiaCobra, on Oct 16 2009, 06:43 PM, said:

Everyone has an opinion on break in. I kinda drove the car hard since day 1 and had no problems. I was lead to believe you need to build up some boost in order to help seat the piston rings....That info is somewhere on the net. Do a search on breaking in a supercharged engine.

I do the same thing.
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#15 User is offline   FiaCobra 

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 02:13 AM

Gary (shelbypt) told me he still has the wheel hop in his KR. I guess i'll go ahead and order the bushing kit and swap them out.
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#16 User is offline   shelbypt 

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 03:22 AM

I do have some wheel hop when rolling the power on. I have not got on this KR from a dead stop, just rolling on the power. I will wait about 800 miles before really getting on the KR. Then, that will test the wheel hop. I just checked the tire pressure in the back and they were 24psi and these tires break loose way to early, half throttle! I feel the break in is for the engine, but also the clutch. When you get a new clutch or brakes, it's always good to break them in for a couple of hundred mile before beating on them. Let them heat up and cool down for awhile...
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#17 User is offline   Tob 

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 02:26 PM

My wheel hop solution is shown here and here.

If I may quote myself for a moment...

Tob said:

First and foremost, I wanted to eliminate the violent wheel hop that has become such a GT500 trademark. I bought the car to enjoy but was never able to modulate my smile with a linear application of throttle, aka pedal mashing. The axle felt like it was trying to escape from the car by ripping the chassis attachment points off the car like a child tearing off wrapping paper on Christmas day. This meant leaving the traction control on all the time (which didn't eliminate losing traction but did reduce it).

Well, the wheel hop has vanished. I've tried and failed at replicating the condition at various rpm levels, road conditions, etc. I can either choose to roast a pair of Goodyear's finest or launch forward quicker since the rubber now meets tarmac instead of air. Forward bit would certainly be further enhanced with a drag radial or slick but that just ain't my bag.

I was interested as to how the changes to the rear may have affected the overall balance of the car, since I've left the front untouched (aside from adding 285's to match the rear). Since the only track local to me is Watkins Glen (which I don't frequent), I can only give feedback from a roadside perspective. The car simply reacts quicker. The change isn't nearly as dramatic as adding the torque arm/panhard bar/etc was to my fox coupe, but it is a positive change nonetheless. Sorry I can't comment on improvements to corner entry or exit but I can say this - controlled oversteer is my bitch, anytime I want her. A simle blip puts the pig back in line anytime she wants to deviate from my intended course.

My other concern with using this combination of parts was any increased NVH. The Roush UCA, utilizing a factory bushing, didn't concern me as much as the rod ended LCA's did. I thought there would be something I could quantify but I can't. The Maximum Motorsports Extreme Duty parts haven't added a peep. Or a squeak, grunt, groan, or growl. No vibration from zero to well over federally mandated forward motion limits. I think sticking with a rubber bushing in the UCA was key, but I admit to not having experienced it any other way to be sure (either poly or a rod ended UCA).

Bottom line - I'm extremely pleased. The parts install was simple and pain free. The addition of rod ends hasn't taken away from the OEM calmness, if you could refer to 540 hp as calm. I'll report back if this starts to degrade.

Lastly, I may be repeating myself, but I'm very impressed with the quality that went into this stuff. Roush, for their OEM-like appearance with aftermarket-like results. Maximum...for their superb engineering and craftsmanship. I inspected every square inch of what they sent me and never raised an eyebrow. I'm thankful that they are adding more and more S197 parts for sale.

I am really enjoying this car!


Tob
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#18 User is offline   FiaCobra 

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 06:06 PM

I'm going with this:
http://www.newedgepe...s...&ProdID=363

I'll report back after installation.
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#19 User is offline   MY500SS 

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Posted 17 October 2009 - 06:23 PM

View Posttxcobra, on Oct 16 2009, 05:18 PM, said:

I do it at 1K miles first, then every 3K after.



Same with mine.
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