[PonyPWR]

It all started last week when the wife and I took the daughter to the orthodontist. It was a nice day so we decided to take the snake. On the way to back to the car after the appointment I noticed that my exhaust was melting the rear facia. I took the car straight to the local dealer just to have them fix and that is when they noticed the rear end seal leaking and the mechanic informed me that there are metal shavings in there. So Today I take the car back to have further looked at and everything but the gears are toast. I love my Snake so I am just really bummed.

[Goats4ever]

PonyPWR, on Nov 20 2009, 04:19 PM, said:

It all started last week when the wife and I took the daughter to the orthodontist. It was a nice day so we decided to take the snake. On the way to back to the car after the appointment I noticed that my exhaust was melting the rear facia. I took the car straight to the local dealer just to have them fix and that is when they noticed the rear end seal leaking and the mechanic informed me that there are metal shavings in there. So Today I take the car back to have further looked at and everything but the gears are toast. I love my Snake so I am just really bummed.

Sorry to hear this; that stinks really bad. So the damage was caused by the techs installing the gasket improperly? Will Shelby pay for the repair?

Jim

[dbackg]

Do you have the 605HP - 725HP coupe ? or 605HP vert?

If you have the 605HP SS package. Rear-end gears will be covered under Ford factory warranty.

While your SS is at the Ford dealer. I would recommend the FRPP low profile rear-end girdle.

http://www.lethalper...-girdle-p-30198

I just got my 605HP vert SS from SAI late last month, October.

I plan on replacing the rear-end girdle ASAP with the FRPP low profile one.
This would require fresh rear-end gear oil and a great time to inspect the gears.

I want to make sure the gears properly "broke in".

RE: Rear diffuser. I noticed Shelby Performance parts are now selling a Carbon Fiber rear facia diffuser.

However, I not positive on the part description if it is the complete rear diffuser or an overlay like Raceskinz.

http://www.shelbyper...20Diffuser.aspx

Last, I would recommend the 2008-2009 Shelby GT500KR Axle Reservoir.

http://www.shelbysto...duct-p/tkr1.htm

TS Members get 20% off & 30% selected SPP. WOW!

Sorry this happened to you. But now you have the opportunity to make it bigger & better!

[PonyPWR]

I called Quantum to find out if they or I would be covering the cost of repair and they said to have the dealership call them. I am still waiting to find out what the outcome will be.

I have an '08 with 725hp.

As of right now the car has not been raced on the track or the street so I assumed that those parts weren't really necessary but now I am thinking they would be a good idea.

I guess what really sucks is the wife has been wanting a supercharger for her SGT for some time now and now we have to get this taken care of first.

[Son of GT]

dbackg, on Nov 20 2009, 02:14 PM, said:

Do you have the 605HP - 725HP coupe ? or 605HP vert?

If you have the 605HP SS package. Rear-end gears will be covered under Ford factory warranty.

While your SS is at the Ford dealer. I would recommend the FRPP low profile rear-end girdle.

http://www.lethalper...-girdle-p-30198

I just got my 605HP vert SS from SAI late last month, October.

I plan on replacing the rear-end girdle ASAP with the FRPP low profile one.
This would require fresh rear-end gear oil and a great time to inspect the gears.

I want to make sure the gears properly "broke in".

RE: Rear diffuser. I noticed Shelby Performance parts are now selling a Carbon Fiber rear facia diffuser.

However, I not positive on the part description if it is the complete rear diffuser or an overlay like Raceskinz.
http://www.shelbyper...20Diffuser.aspx

Last, I would recommend the 2008-2009 Shelby GT500KR Axle Reservoir.

http://www.shelbysto...duct-p/tkr1.htm

TS Members get 20% off & 30% selected SPP. WOW!

Sorry this happened to you. But now you have the opportunity to make it bigger & better!

The Shelby diffuser is the same one as Raceskinz. Raceskinz makes the CF diffuser (overlay) for Shelby.

PonyPWR, sorry to hear about the failure, but the differental in my SS decided to go south for vacation a little over a year ago, and was repaired under the factory warranty; no questions asked.

As the old saying goes "poop happens".

[LuckySnake]

PonyPWR, on Nov 20 2009, 03:19 PM, said:

It all started last week when the wife and I took the daughter to the orthodontist. It was a nice day so we decided to take the snake. On the way to back to the car after the appointment I noticed that my exhaust was melting the rear facia. I took the car straight to the local dealer just to have them fix and that is when they noticed the rear end seal leaking and the mechanic informed me that there are metal shavings in there. So Today I take the car back to have further looked at and everything but the gears are toast. I love my Snake so I am just really bummed.

Sorry to hear about the luck. Sure does sound like the failure was no fault of yours, so I hope Quantum pays for the repair.
I doubt Ford will warranty the new install because it's a 725 but I would ask about the warranty and if they won't do it, there are plenty of people that will, have the insurance or AAA flat bed it to a speed shop that can meet your needs. I'm using a Torsen T2R+ diff with great success and some people are using Detroit Lockers, you could probably spend less money for a better product at a reputable speed shop.
I have my original GT500 diff in perfect condition with only 1439 miles, if you want to go original on a budget route, also have new bearings. Quantum shoud pay for the rear facia too.

Good Luck,
Blayne

[shelby001]

So how did the rear facia MELT. ,had to be heat but from where?

[Robert M]

PonyPWR, on Nov 20 2009, 04:19 PM, said:

It all started last week when the wife and I took the daughter to the orthodontist. It was a nice day so we decided to take the snake. On the way to back to the car after the appointment I noticed that my exhaust was melting the rear facia. I took the car straight to the local dealer just to have them fix and that is when they noticed the rear end seal leaking and the mechanic informed me that there are metal shavings in there. So Today I take the car back to have further looked at and everything but the gears are toast. I love my Snake so I am just really bummed.

Sorry to hear about this^^^^^^^^^^.

Did your perform the recommended full 300 mile rear gear break-in, 25 mile round trip with a full rear end cool down between each 25 mile run? It usually takes many hours for a full cool down, like over night. It took me many days to perform this break-in on my car, actually it was four times a week for three weeks.

R

This post has been edited by Robert M: 20 November 2009 - 04:46 PM

[shelby001]

Robert M, on Nov 20 2009, 07:44 PM, said:

Sorry to hear about this^^^^^^^^^^.

Did your perform the recommended full 300 mile rear gear break-in, 25 mile round trip with a full rear end cool down between each 25 mile run? It usually takes many hours for a full cool down, like over night. It took me many days to perform this break-in on my car, actually it was four times a week for three weeks.

R

Wow A 300 mile break in on rear gears , did you do this when you got your new Shelby off the lot ? Just doesn`t make sense .

[LuckySnake]

Robert M, on Nov 20 2009, 06:44 PM, said:

Sorry to hear about this^^^^^^^^^^.

Did your perform the recommended full 300 mile rear gear break-in, 25 mile round trip with a full rear end cool down between each 25 mile run? It usually takes many hours for a full cool down, like over night. It took me many days to perform this break-in on my car, actually it was four times a week for three weeks.

R

That's allot of work but is probably worth it if you don't have problems. I broke mine in with two dyno pulls and a smoky burnout upon departure from the shop. That was 4000 miles ago with no problems. After I broke them in I just drove it normaly I did change the fluid after two hundred miles.

[COBRA SCOTTY]

Robert M, on Nov 20 2009, 07:44 PM, said:

Sorry to hear about this^^^^^^^^^^.

Did your perform the recommended full 300 mile rear gear break-in, 25 mile round trip with a full rear end cool down between each 25 mile run? It usually takes many hours for a full cool down, like over night. It took me many days to perform this break-in on my car, actually it was four times a week for three weeks.

R

i am wondering if this was more of a gear lash problem than a break-in issue. in lots of

cases when a new ring and pinion gear is installed the gear lash is the most common

problem ; even more so than the break-in. i say this because people like enis/son of gt and

others have their original gears replaced and if not done exactly right eventually

you grind down the teeth on the ring and pinion do to the improper meshing of the

gears and they are toast. if it was a breakin period issue the teeth would not harden

properly and you would actually break the individual teeth and have a catastrophic failure

of the gear instead of having shavings. in the hardening or heat treating process of a

gear or in this case ring and pinion the over heated or continually heating of a gear above

the max temperature of hardening turns or make the metal brittel. jmo

Scotty ; retired/buyout ford engineer / ford racing

This post has been edited by COBRA SCOTTY: 20 November 2009 - 05:32 PM

[shelby001]

COBRA SCOTTY, on Nov 20 2009, 08:18 PM, said:

i am wondering if this was more of a gear lash problem than a break-in issue. in lots of cases

when a new ring and pinion gear is installed the gear lash is the most common problem ;

even more so than the break-in. i say this because people like enis/son of gt and

others have their original gears replaced and if not done exactly right eventually

you grind down the teeth on the ring and pinion do to the improper meshing of the

gears and they are toast. if it was a breakin period issue the teeth would not harden

properly and you would actually break the individual teeth and have a catastrophic failure

of the gear instead of having shaving. in the hardening or heat treating process of a

gear or in this case ring and pinion the over heated or continually heating of a gear above

the max temperature of hardening turns or make the metal brittel. jmo

Scotty ; retired/buyout ford engineer / ford racing

[Robert M]

shelby001, on Nov 20 2009, 07:57 PM, said:

Wow A 300 mile break in on rear gears , did you do this when you got your new Shelby off the lot ? Just doesn`t make sense .

Nope, my car went directly from its original dealership with 8.3 miles, I never saw (except in pictures) or drove the car with its 3.31's. When it arrived at my house, it was a 725, I read the discussion(s) about these cars, break-in periods/procedures, etc. and followed the advise from people who were more knowlegable than me as it related to this car (this would be the people who built it). Did it need this type of break-in? don't know? This is what was mentioned early in the discussions on these cars, so that is what I did. I was not interested in having a car, that was built in Las Vegas, down here in Fla. and have to discuss rear end issues over the phone because I decided I knew more than the builders, and I did not need to follow their advise.

I don't think that the axle, once it has been apart, gears changed, etc. would still be covered under the Ford warranty?

It has been a while since I read the discussions about Super Snake break-in, the 300 miles may have not been specific to the rear end, but instead also include the bedding of the brake pads, KB break-in and other things related to the build.

R

This post has been edited by Robert M: 21 November 2009 - 01:45 PM

[Robert M]

COBRA SCOTTY, on Nov 20 2009, 08:18 PM, said:

i am wondering if this was more of a gear lash problem than a break-in issue. in lots of

cases when a new ring and pinion gear is installed the gear lash is the most common

problem ; even more so than the break-in. i say this because people like enis/son of gt and

others have their original gears replaced and if not done exactly right eventually

you grind down the teeth on the ring and pinion do to the improper meshing of the

gears and they are toast. if it was a breakin period issue the teeth would not harden

properly and you would actually break the individual teeth and have a catastrophic failure

of the gear instead of having shavings. in the hardening or heat treating process of a

gear or in this case ring and pinion the over heated or continually heating of a gear above

the max temperature of hardening turns or make the metal brittel. jmo

Scotty ; retired/buyout ford engineer / ford racing

I am certainly not an expert on this subject, but wouldn't there be some noise as the gears wear apart? howling? clunking? or something. It seems that rear end gears are quick to make noise (either on acceleration, or deceleration or both) if they are not meshing properly.

R

[Goats4ever]

Robert M, on Nov 21 2009, 04:16 PM, said:

Nope, my car went directly from its original dealership with 8.3 miles, I never saw (except in pictures) or drove the car with its 3.31's. When it arrived at my house, it was a 725, I read the discussion(s) about these cars, break-in periods/procedures, etc. and followed the advise from people who were more knowlegable than me as it related to this car (this would be the people who built it). Did it need this type of break-in? don't know? This is what was mentioned early in the discussions on these cars, so that is what I did. I was not interested in having a car, that was built in Las Vegas, down here in Fla. and have to discuss rear end issues over the phone because I decided I knew more than the builders, and I did not need to follow their advise.

I don't think that the axle, once it has been apart, gears changed, etc. would still be covered under the Ford warranty?

It has been a while since I read the discussions about Super Snake break-in, the 300 miles may have not been specific to the rear end, but instead also include the bedding of the brake pads, KB break-in and other things related to the build.

R

Upon inspecting my 725 HP SS at SAI, I was told "three" 25 mile break-ins were required for the differential. Where did the "300" mile breakin come from?

Why should a very expensive super car like this require additional components to preclude problems when initial design components were thought to be sufficient by SAI engineers?

This is why owners should have received an "Owners Manual" upon delivery of their SS. I am about to send the CD to SAI with all the information from owners that will compile a large percentage of the manual. Hopefully, this manual will be taken seriously to become a very informative and user freindly document.

This post has been edited by Goats4ever: 21 November 2009 - 10:20 PM

[Robert M]

Goats4ever, on Nov 22 2009, 01:18 AM, said:

Upon inspecting my 725 HP SS at SAI, I was told "three" 25 mile break-ins were required for the differential. Where did the "300" mile breakin come from?

Why should a very expensive super car like this require additional components to preclude problems when initial design components were thought to be sufficient by SAI engineers?

This is why owners should have received an "Owners Manual" upon delivery of their SS. I am about to send the CD to SAI with all the information from owners that will compile a large percentage of the manual. Hopefully, this manual will be taken seriously to become a very informative and user freindly document.

It took some searching, but here is what I found. I guess it was 100-200 mile break-in, not 300, and he mentions 4-5 cold starts, not 3. I did this for 300 miles, no harm done. The first post from Bud (SAI), 3/4 of the way down. Also notice "completely cool down", not cool it down for a couple of hours and then back to the next 25 miles.

Here is the link to the discussion.........

http://www.teamshelb...p...t=0&start=0

R

This post has been edited by Robert M: 22 November 2009 - 11:45 AM

[Goats4ever]

Robert M, on Nov 22 2009, 02:40 PM, said:

It took some searching, but here is what I found. I guess it was 100-200 mile break-in, not 300, and he mentions 4-5 cold starts, not 3. I did this for 300 miles, no harm done. The first post from Bud (SAI), 3/4 of the way down. Also notice "completely cool down", not cool it down for a couple of hours and then back to the next 25 miles.

Here is the link to the discussion.........

http://www.teamshelb...p...t=0&start=0

R

Thx R.

[Slabo]

Robert M, on Nov 22 2009, 11:40 AM, said:

It took some searching, but here is what I found. I guess it was 100-200 mile break-in, not 300, and he mentions 4-5 cold starts, not 3. I did this for 300 miles, no harm done. The first post from Bud (SAI), 3/4 of the way down. Also notice "completely cool down", not cool it down for a couple of hours and then back to the next 25 miles.

Here is the link to the discussion.........

http://www.teamshelb...p...t=0&start=0

R

This is what I was told as well. I did four 25 mile heatup's with full overnight cool downs. Then took it easy (no hard starts) for the next 100 miles. Sorry to hear about your problems PonyPWR.

This post has been edited by Slabo: 24 November 2009 - 03:47 PM

[2010KonaBlueGT]

PonyPWR, on Nov 20 2009, 02:19 PM, said:

I took the car straight to the local dealer just to have them fix and that is when they noticed the rear end seal leaking and the mechanic informed me that there are metal shavings in there. So Today I take the car back to have further looked at and everything but the gears are toast.

You say everything BUT the gears are toast. So far, everyone has been talking about gear failure in this thread. That doesn't sound like that's the case.

About the only other thing in the rear diff is bearings (unless you mean the locker too). It sounds like whoever built the rear end overtightened the pinion pre-load and toasted the bearings. That would also lead to a leak on the pinion seal (which it sounds like you're saying happened). And if they got the pinion pre-load wrong they likely got the carrier bearings tight too.

I've built more rear diffs than I can count (I'm a retired Auto Tech) and never had a bearing failure. It sounds to me like it's just a plain old failure on the Tech's end. You're lucky that the gears didn't get trashed and the reason for that is your early attention to the problem.

As someone else pointed out, there *should* have been some kind of noise associated with the failure. My guess is that you found it so early the bearings never got sloppy enough to get noisey.

You have a legit reason to bitch. But I'd be bitchin' to the shop that built your diff!

There's just no excuse for that kind of work.


Phill Pollard - CoS, CO
2010 Kona Blue/White GT500

[PonyPWR]

You say everything BUT the gears are toast. So far, everyone has been talking about gear failure in this thread. That doesn't sound like that's the case.

About the only other thing in the rear diff is bearings (unless you mean the locker too). It sounds like whoever built the rear end overtightened the pinion pre-load and toasted the bearings. That would also lead to a leak on the pinion seal (which it sounds like you're saying happened). And if they got the pinion pre-load wrong they likely got the carrier bearings tight too.

I've built more rear diffs than I can count (I'm a retired Auto Tech) and never had a bearing failure. It sounds to me like it's just a plain old failure on the Tech's end. You're lucky that the gears didn't get trashed and the reason for that is your early attention to the problem.

As someone else pointed out, there *should* have been some kind of noise associated with the failure. My guess is that you found it so early the bearings never got sloppy enough to get noisey.

You have a legit reason to bitch. But I'd be bitchin' to the shop that built your diff!

There's just no excuse for that kind of work.


Phill Pollard - CoS, CO
2010 Kona Blue/White GT500

Quote

So far what you have said makes the most sense to me. I have been calling Quantum Performance for close to a week now and they just today gave the ok to the machanic to open it up and tally up the damage. I am positive that it was due to early detection that I didn't have any noise. It just sounded all normal. I was in a car once going down the road about 60 when the pilot shaft bearing went out, it is not a fun ride.