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Crucible

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About Crucible

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    Team Shelby New Member
  • Birthday 10/03/1948

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  1. My almost 4 year old SGT (0360) has a severe case of stripe spotting. I've tried everything up to and including rubbing compound with no luck. Anybody have the same problem and any suggestions?
  2. I purchased my Black Shelby GT (CSM 0360) in March 2007. Like many others, I've had a few issues with the scoop. The following is my saga. Hood Scoop #1 - Major gaps on both sides of the scoop. Replaced. Hood Scoop #2 - No better than the original. Replaced. Hood Scoop #3 - 1st scoop to be completely riveted. Hood is wrinkled from rivet to rivet. Hood Scoop #4 - Complete hood replacement with scoop attached. After 6 months, stripe tape bubbles up around rivets. Hood Scoop #5 - To replace stripes, new and improved hood scoop needs to be mounted. Only problem is that the scoop doesn't line up with the rivet holes in the hood. Hood Scoop #6 - Waiting for pre-drilled hood scoop to arrive from Shelby. Can anyone be my hood scoop count?
  3. The lights are finally in and I have a few tips if you're going to attempt doing the job yourself. 1. Get some car ramps. You'll have to put a couple of 2"X4"'s in front of the ramps to give the car enough elevation to clear the front air dam before driving up the ramps. 2. Remove the splash guard from underneath the radiator. This makes the whole job a lot easier. 3. The template for marking the bumper incerts is great for marking the bolt hole locations for the bezels but pretty worthless for the break duct and driving light hole locations. I cut the exact diameters called out for and couldn't get the bezels in because of the break duct and driving light extensions. The bezels don't go straight in but on an angle. What I ended up doing was cutting all of the incert away except for a 3/4"X3/4" tab where the bolt holes are located. 3. The metal hole guide that is provided is marked driver's side and passenger's side. Following the directions you'll be required to drill the mounting brackets from the fender side. This requires either a very small drill or an offset drill because there just isn't enough room to get anything bigger in there. Instead of following the directions, I used the passenger's side of the hole guide on the driver's side and the driver's side on the passenger's side. Mark the inside of the car frame instead of the outside. The hole locations work out to be the same. This will allow the use of a full size drill that can be applied from behind the air conditioning condenser. 4. The mounting brackets on the driving lights need to be attached to the supplied aluminum brackets before you install the aluminum brackets to the frame. If you don't, you'll never get them tightened if you try and attach the whole light assembly to the aluminum bracket if the bracket is installed first. Remove the light mounting bracket from the light by removing the 2-10mm side bolts. 5. Have metric wrenches and sockets. Everything is metric. The bolts on the splash guard are 5.5mm. Everything else is 10mm except for the mounting bracket on the light; it's 17mm. Attached are some pics of the installed lights as well as a pic of the MidWest Automotive Radiator cover and light covers I installed. I added the SHELBY logo and Carol signed the panel over the driver's side light.
  4. If you'll check, I'm the same crucible who started the other thread. I added this one to avoid any confusion over my latest would be missed.
  5. It covers the CSM plaque, but it's still there. The install in about 5 minutes. No drilling required.
  6. The lights are finally in and I have a few tips if you're going to attempt doing the job yourself. 1. Get some car ramps. You'll have to put a couple of 2"X4"'s in front of the ramps to give the car enough elevation to clear the front air dam before driving up the ramps. 2. Remove the splash guard from underneath the radiator. This makes the whole job a lot easier. 3. The template for marking the bumper incerts is great for marking the bolt hole locations for the bezels but pretty worthless for the break duct and driving light hole locations. I cut the exact diameters called out for and couldn't get the bezels in because of the break duct and driving light extensions. The bezels don't go straight in but on an angle. What I ended up doing was cutting all of the incert away except for a 3/4"X3/4" tab where the bolt holes are located. 3. The metal hole guide that is provided is marked driver's side and passenger's side. Following the directions you'll be required to drill the mounting brackets from the fender side. This requires either a very small drill or an offset drill because there just isn't enough room to get anything bigger in there. Instead of following the directions, I used the passenger's side of the hole guide on the driver's side and the driver's side on the passenger's side. Mark the inside of the car frame instead of the outside. The hole locations work out to be the same. This will allow the use of a full size drill that can be applied from behind the air conditioning condenser. 4. The mounting brackets on the driving lights need to be attached to the supplied aluminum brackets before you install the aluminum brackets to the frame. If you don't, you'll never get them tightened if you try and attach the whole light assembly to the aluminum bracket if the bracket is installed first. Remove the light mounting bracket from the light by removing the 2-10mm side bolts. 5. Have metric wrenches and sockets. Everything is metric. The bolts on the splash guard are 5.5mm. Everything else is 10mm except for the mounting bracket on the light; it's 17mm. Attached are some pics of the installed lights as well as a pic of the MidWest Automotive Radiator cover and light covers I installed. I added the SHELBY logo and Carol signed the panel over the driver's side light.
  7. Here are 2 pics of the installed break duct bezels. I'll take some more from the back when I install the lights. Notice the scratches on the bottom of the air dam. Love those 5" parking curbs!
  8. Thanks for the additional info on the lights. It will help when I get mine in.
  9. I received my break duck & driving lights bezels last week and after requesting the installation instructions separately (they didn't come with the bezels) I installed them this past Saturday. Here's my suggestions for anyone attempting to do the job yourself. 1. Buy some car ramps and use a couple of 2X4's to get the front tires up on to clear the front air dam. 2. Remove the splash guard from underneath the radiator. This makes the installation alot easier. 3. The instructions call for locating the mounting bolts and hole cutouts by using the supplied templates. The locations for the mounting bolts are dead on but the break duct and driving lights hole locations are worthless. I precisely located these holes using a 4" and 3 5/8" hole drill. Unfortunately the bezels have such a precise fit that no matter how much you manuver the bezels they won't go in. What I did and you may consider is to remove all of the plastic bumper insert except for a 5/8" tab around the bolt locations. This allow the bezels to be positioned easily and fit snugly into the bumper location. After attaching the supplied stainless bolts, washers and nuts, the bezels are solidly in place. 4. If you have the lower billet grill, you will need to cut off the ends of the half moon tabs to fit around the break duct extensions. My driving lights are in the mail and I'll be installing them next weekend and I'll be uploading pics for all to see.
  10. I received my break duck & driving lights bezels last week and after requesting the installation instructions separately (they didn't come with the bezels) I installed them this past Saturday. Here's my suggestions for anyone attempting to do the job yourself. 1. Buy some car ramps and use a couple of 2X4's to get the front tires up on to clear the front air dam. 2. Remove the splash guard from underneath the radiator. This makes the installation alot easier. 3. The instructions call for locating the mounting bolts and hole cutouts by using the supplied templates. The locations for the mounting bolts are dead on but the break duct and driving lights hole locations are worthless. I precisely located these holes using a 4" and 3 5/8" hole drill. Unfortunately the bezels have such a precise fit that no matter how much you manuver the bezels they won't go in. What I did and you may consider is to remove all of the plastic bumper insert except for a 5/8" tab around the bolt locations. This allow the bezels to be positioned easily and fit snugly into the bumper location. After attaching the supplied stainless bolts, washers and nuts, the bezels are solidly in place. 4. If you have the lower billet grill, you will need to cut off the ends of the half moon tabs to fit around the break duct extensions. My driving lights are in the mail and I'll be installing them next weekend and I'll be uploading pics for all to see.
  11. This past May, while driving back from Pittsburgh to Tulsa, I was on the last stretch of road before getting home. The Will Rogers Turnpike offers a lot of opportunities to open it up and I wanted to see if the cruise control would operate in the century numbers. I got it up to 130 mph and hit the cruise and it held just fine. When I looked in my rearview mirror, the old song "Son, you're gonna drive me to drinking if you don't stop driving that Hot Rod Lincoln" immediately started playing in my head. Drafting on my ass end was a 2006 Lincoln Town car being driving by a guy with a huge cigar sticking out of his piehole. And sitting next to him, I guess was his wife. Her eyes were the "deer in the headlights" size and both hands were gripping the dash.
  12. I'm thinking of buying the 20" Razors for SGT0360 and was wondering what size tires they would require.
  13. Those are from MidWest Auto Gear with a snake logo. Nice try.
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