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About LuLu

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    Team Shelby #506

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  1. Backfire should have left some sort of code, I would be clueless too. Though you do not explained the "bad gas" thought, perhaps there is something else wrong that arises at the same time the gas issue came to mind? If this was my problem, I would pull some spark plugs and evaluate from there. A shortcut to this would be to peek at #1 and #8 first, they reside at two opposite ends of the fuel rails. If nothing seems out of sorts, pull the remainder. Careful with the electrodes, you are just looking, nothing else. Check your observations against known results? I had something a little like this a while back, thought it was possibly bad gas then too. Turned out to be the MAF, a dead spyder's resting spot. Blew everything out and reassembled, problem did not return. No codes then either, just blocked air path to the sensor...Unless I fixed something else by accident. I still cannot explain what it was. Good luck with this, let us know what you think when it's over. Y'all be safe.
  2. Advice to "search this forum" is good advice. There are so many parameters to consider. Let's begin with; Identify the 18" wheel you want to retain? (Note: that the Shelby GT came with two types of wheels in stock form. Are you asking about stock wheels?) What are your driving needs? (Note: Daily driver only? Local streets and short trips? 50% Highway driving? Occasional track use? Frequent track use?) What is your budget, if any? Do you want to rebuild/reconstruct your present brake components for improved performance? (Note: Any objection to using remanfactured parts?) Do you want to dress up your system? (Note: painted/powdercoated calipers, chrome/ polished stainless steel hardware?) Do you have a brake system in mind and want advice on that system? See what is meant by "search"? There are so many variables, you need to be more specific to get good advice. Once you do this, many will step in to guide you. First, help yourself by helping us help you? See? It's all so easy... Y'all be safe.
  3. Revan...I am looking for some stock Shelby GT - Mustang GT calipers, front and rear, for a project I have in mind. Did the shop return your old calipers? If so, do you want to sell them? You can reach me at the email address listed in my profile. Thanks. Y'all be safe.
  4. My two GTs also have the "Shelby" branded emissions stickers, on the underside of the hood, just to my left as I look up. My other Ford products read exactly the same, but say Ford. Is this the emission sticker that is up for discussion here? Are there any more anywhere else on the car? Should there be more? In the driver's door opening perhaps? Just wondering, y'all be safe.
  5. The differences between a 285/ and a 295/ are nominal, but they do differ in more than just tread on the pavement. The 295/ is also slightly taller, a larger circumference. Of course, most of us would lean towards the wider tire with no worry about this. However, there is another measurement to consider. The offset/backspace of the wheel you select will impact the tire size. The minor (just over 1/3 of an inch) addition of tire width and its tallness may cause problems if the center (hub) of the wheel pushes the tire out too far. The offset/backspace describes the location of the mounting hub, and where that hub hangs inside the wheel will impact brake clearance and wheel well clearance for the outside of the tire. What I am trying to say, is that a 295/ tire may rub against the fender, and that would be better determined by knowing how the wheel will fit the axle. In tight cornering, you may scrub up against the fender. AND, even though a 19" wheel will provide more room for larger brake calipers and rotors, the spoke of the wheel may not. The offset/backspace is important here too. Carry on gents, be safe.
  6. LuLu


    It has been my experience that there are no strong lines drawn between "GT" and "GT500" when shopping for the accessories you mention. I rely of what I can see in the photo, and when I cannot tell either way, I move on to the next item. Good luck, be safe.
  7. The best oil is clean oil. I run two remarkably different 4.6L-3V engines, one blower car, the other N/A. Both see quite a bit of DD abuse off the track as well. From day 1 of ownership, I follow very strict rules I will not deviate from. Motorcraft, Pensoil, QST, the brand doesn't matter. 5W20. Bulk/house drain is fine too, when I know the house. Change every 2500 miles, with Motorcraft or Ford Racing filter. I have experienced engine failures, yes, but none related to oil, cooling, or lubrication issues. Cost is as minimal as I can get it. I try to take advantage of sales and markdowns when possible. Group buy split among friends is very helpful with the cost of filters. Overall, the average is roughly 21.00 and 17.00 respectfully, per change, the difference due to capacity on one engine. I have followed this program on other engines, the 2003-04 Marauder 4.6L-4V, and a home brewed '93 turbo four slug. It has never disappointed me. Your mention of "sludge" refreshes memories of my youth, when we would seek out the "grandpa" cars of that era. Back then, the technology was not as advanced, and pocketbooks likewise conservative, sludge was what we would dig out from the valley of a V-8 with our fingers, and solvents applied by the quart. Its not like that today. That kind of sludge seems a urban ledgend. Nonetheless, I keep in mind that engines today rely on the oil system to control operating temps and some oil passages are quite narrow. The smallest collection of debris and fouled oil can lead to catastrophe. Only way to combat this is to flush the system as often as one finds reasonable. I cannot say why 2500 miles, just seems comfortable considering the miles I drive per month. Honestly, my drain seems so clear at times, I feel wasteful, but I consider it inexpensive insurance. BTW...Just before I plan a drain, maybe 500 miles before, I will add a pint of "SeaFoam" to the crankcase. I cannot say this is helpful in any way. I have no studies or statistics proving any "pro" or "con" but it feels like I am making some difference, so be it. I have seen "oil discussions" go on forever, at times it has grown hostile. I'm not interested in all that, I am just expressing my preference. What ever works for you, is fine with me. Y'all carry on, be safe.
  8. Absolutely. E-mail is in my profile. I do not PM.
  9. Thank you for the suggestions. I did the google thing to see what had changed over the years. This also gave me access to what I was asking about, with an interesting note. Some aftermarket parts come with their own CARB stickers, quite the opposite of when we started out here. Back then, we were just happy that some goodies were available. Now it seems that all the bases are covered and compliance isnt as much of a hill climb as I imagined. Thank you again. Y'all be safe.
  10. Cape Cod. Likewise a long trip. Problem is, no clean direct route. I will go if no one speaks up, Forest knows that. It just may be better if he could locate someone closer.
  11. Just out of my own curiosity, can anyone post a pic go the CARB sticker/decal spoken of here? I hear about it often, just want to know what the little gremlin looks like. Y'all be safe.
  12. Alternator, round 2: After I charged the battery after replacing a dead alternator, the battery went dead! No crank over, just ticks, the battery showed 8.4 volts. Parked the evening before. I was out late, so, heater blower, radio, GPS and head/tail lights, occasional turn signal, loaded up the discharges for about 2 hours of highway driving. WTF? Charged it overnight again, drove it about 10 miles the next day and parked overnight again. More ticking the next morning, 8.1 volts on the meter this time. Called the shop, "bring it in" he said. I did. He asked "where is the car?" At home. "I need the car". No you don't, just test the battery? He did, it was shot, less than 4 volts by now. I bought it there 06/13, Motorcraft, got full replacement on warranty. I should have remembered that when you blow an alternator, there could be collateral damage. I wasn't pleased with the repair bill on the alternator, but I presumed that the system and battery was tested in that repair. Why shouldnt I? Could be a chance to sell other repairs, yes? Nothing important in this note, just a reminder about collateral damage. Y'all be safe.
  13. I do not have my new car purchase papers at my fingertips, but I do not recall any complication for CA buyers of new SGTs. This was eight years ago, which allows for changes in CARB rules I cannot account for. It's also a long time to NOT mod an SGT in some manner. Blowers and exhaust are two mods available through Shelby which may/may not be CARB compliant, so this could be a tough call. Can you determine what, if any, changes the former owner(s) may have undertaken? If so, list them here, I am sure someone will speak up. Y'all be safe.
  14. Please look here, and see if you can help. It's another TS member who I have spoken with on the phone, who is trying to buy his first SGT. http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/87925-any-ts-members-in-connecticutor-close-to-it/ OR http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/87921-see-a-shelby-gt/ Thanks y'all, be safe.
  15. This is what I am trying to accomplish here. A touch of "Occam's Razor"? "The easy answer is usually the correct one?" But rather than bounce around tire vendor websites and submit to their subliminal advertising, my second link brings the important stuff together in one locale. Just pick the brand of choice, ask for more information, and every line the brand represents is listed. Now you may be properly armed for the advice/impression/favorite of friends, and word of mouth. I hope this helps in some way because my friends are also trying to sell me something, which is that they are the sole authority, and their choice is the only choice for me. In other areas, like blowers and cams, this has cost me thousands of dollars. Y'all be safe.
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