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Pacific Northwest Region
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About 89Saleen215

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    Team Shelby New Member

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    Pacific Northwest
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  1. +1 Same here...filled it out several times and never an email. I also had the error code at the top of the webpage.
  2. Do you have a bottom pic to show the tabs and mounting pin?
  3. I'm not sure if this still applies...but a number of years ago when I worked in a shop when the parts people would drop of any rotors or drums the first thing we did was turn them. You'd be surprised how many are warped right out of the box. Yes, we were told by all the parts places and manufacturers that they are true out of the box and you'll void the warranty and blah, blah, blah. It was like about 90% of the time they were warped out of the box. So it's possible the new parts aren't true. One of the reasons why I refuse to run Baer products is because they have historically made it clear that their rotors are a one-time use item - can't turn them. It does sound like a second pair of eyes would be good since you have other issues that don't sound like a typical warped rotor issue. It almost sounds like something in the spindle--rotor-caliper area might not be installed correctly and another set of eyes might catch something that's been overlooked. Let us know what you find - it could help someone else.
  4. I also couldn't find anywhere where it designated JDRF as a profit or non-profit organization.
  5. If you're going to track or just have fun then the brake fluid should be changed to hi-temp and the pads should be changed to something better. As far as the rears go...I track and I'm cheap, so I just bought a set of the OEM 2013 brakes (take-off's of course). I didn't want to use an aftermarket bracket for the rear calipers, so I took out the axles and did everything just like OEM. I also upgraded the diff fluid to a full synthetic (and friction modifier) as part of the job. I run Hawk HPS pads and I've never had fade on or off track. The other reason I went this way was to fill the "gaps" in the 20" Alcoa's. The earlier OEM rotors just looked way too small inside those wheels.
  6. Depending on your mods...mine was a hole in one of the "metal" lines where it had rubbed with something else. The 3 "rubbing" culprits IF you have certain mods: 1) The lines that go right next to the strut tower bar IF it's a FRPP/KR piece. 2) The lines next to the lower right hand side of the radiator IF the radiator has been upgraded to the thicker C&R Shelby one. 3) The lines next to the lower right hand side of the radiator IF running the FRPP/KR cooling duct hoses. I put a bottle of "dye" in my system and looked through all of the lines and it took me a number of times before I found it. I would recommend though, since the "freon" is most likely gone, to replace the orifice tube and the receiver/dryer before putting new stuff in it. They are relatively cheap and will ensure you have a system that will last you another 10 years or more. AND...I can't believe I'm saying this...I took mine to the local dealer where the service advisor "liked me" and they used their brand new a/c setup on my car. It was like $90 or something, but the car is down right COLD. I didn't know who to trust and I only went there because of the service advisor. Just my .02
  7. Yes, it can be done. I run 275/35 up front. Some run smaller like a 255. I also have an extra set of 20x10's if I ever want to put the wider size up front or want to run the same size all around.
  8. +1 Motul RBF600 and brake pad upgrade (I use Hawk HPS all the time...no squeal here). There's also a glaze on the rotors from the previous pads that should be cleaned off before installing new pads. Then the pads/rotors should be properly bedded in so they function at their best. Then if you actually want to have fun the cooling system needs to be upgraded both the radiator and heat exchanger (it's a drag when the power goes away due to heatsoak). I created a checklist before every track day of things that need to be checked or changed. I once was in a situation where my car was used by two different drivers in back-to-back sessions...the car was driven non-stop for 40+ minutes. I was glad I had properly prepped the car...it ran flawlessly. Be careful...you might get addicted to the 3rd and 4th gear pulls...listening to the supercharger and exhaust...it's a fun rush. Enjoy your time.
  9. Is FoMoCo the coils of choice or is there some hotter ones out there that are longer lasting? If the car has any mods the factory coils might not be strong enough. I haven't looked into this yet, but if I have a coil go I'd seriously consider upgrading them...if there is a such a thing (I know there are coils out there, but being available and being good are two different things).
  10. This might seem a bit odd, but one of the things that I liked about the GT500's is that they have a complete "black" dash...no chrome or aluminum stuff on the dash, console, etc. except the bezels for the gauges and air vents. The nose of the car was another thing that I really liked as well. However, as previously mentioned, I bought my car as a starting point for what I wanted to build. The $400 I spent on the Fays2 watts-link in the rear was one of the best upgrades I did to the car. That mod alone helped in everyday driving. Another thing to consider is that many of the first model years have had the clutch TSB done or the owner did an aftermarket piece so that might not be an issue, but you'd want to ask or check with a dealer. I went the FRPP CAI (KR) route and added a VMP tune and I avg 22/23 mpg @ 70-80 mpg on long trips. So either car with a tune can improve mpg if that's an issue. I would argue that both cars have a compromised suspension, but with heaviness of the front and the extra power on the GT500 the rear end "wiggle" is more pronounced and noticeable. As has been mentioned a good adjustable panhard bar (for under $200) or a watts-link can take of it. These cars are just a canvas to build what your dream is...just gotta figure out what base canvas you want to start with and enjoy the ride.
  11. Like the others have said...upgrade pads, fluid, and brake lines. These are items that you'll notice just driving to the store.
  12. I have 275's on the front using the 20x9's.
  13. Just got my notice for the passenger side a couple weeks ago. Called and got on the list. I was told parts will be shipping to dealers around the end of April to mid-May.
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