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About 89Saleen215

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    Team Shelby New Member

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  1. Yes, it can be done. I run 275/35 up front. Some run smaller like a 255. I also have an extra set of 20x10's if I ever want to put the wider size up front or want to run the same size all around.
  2. +1 Motul RBF600 and brake pad upgrade (I use Hawk HPS all the time...no squeal here). There's also a glaze on the rotors from the previous pads that should be cleaned off before installing new pads. Then the pads/rotors should be properly bedded in so they function at their best. Then if you actually want to have fun the cooling system needs to be upgraded both the radiator and heat exchanger (it's a drag when the power goes away due to heatsoak). I created a checklist before every track day of things that need to be checked or changed. I once was in a situation where my car was used by two different drivers in back-to-back sessions...the car was driven non-stop for 40+ minutes. I was glad I had properly prepped the car...it ran flawlessly. Be careful...you might get addicted to the 3rd and 4th gear pulls...listening to the supercharger and exhaust...it's a fun rush. Enjoy your time.
  3. Is FoMoCo the coils of choice or is there some hotter ones out there that are longer lasting? If the car has any mods the factory coils might not be strong enough. I haven't looked into this yet, but if I have a coil go I'd seriously consider upgrading them...if there is a such a thing (I know there are coils out there, but being available and being good are two different things).
  4. This might seem a bit odd, but one of the things that I liked about the GT500's is that they have a complete "black" dash...no chrome or aluminum stuff on the dash, console, etc. except the bezels for the gauges and air vents. The nose of the car was another thing that I really liked as well. However, as previously mentioned, I bought my car as a starting point for what I wanted to build. The $400 I spent on the Fays2 watts-link in the rear was one of the best upgrades I did to the car. That mod alone helped in everyday driving. Another thing to consider is that many of the first model years have had the clutch TSB done or the owner did an aftermarket piece so that might not be an issue, but you'd want to ask or check with a dealer. I went the FRPP CAI (KR) route and added a VMP tune and I avg 22/23 mpg @ 70-80 mpg on long trips. So either car with a tune can improve mpg if that's an issue. I would argue that both cars have a compromised suspension, but with heaviness of the front and the extra power on the GT500 the rear end "wiggle" is more pronounced and noticeable. As has been mentioned a good adjustable panhard bar (for under $200) or a watts-link can take of it. These cars are just a canvas to build what your dream is...just gotta figure out what base canvas you want to start with and enjoy the ride.
  5. Like the others have said...upgrade pads, fluid, and brake lines. These are items that you'll notice just driving to the store.
  6. I have 275's on the front using the 20x9's.
  7. Just got my notice for the passenger side a couple weeks ago. Called and got on the list. I was told parts will be shipping to dealers around the end of April to mid-May.
  8. Sorry if the pic's aren't that good, but here are some. These are BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S tires that have a 12.3" section width and a 11.4" tread width. More specs can be found on TireRack (BFG G-Force).
  9. The offsets are: 24mm (5.96" backspace) for the 20x9 and 36.7mm (6.97" backspace) for the 20x10. If you don't want to change the computer for the speedo then you should be able to run 295/30's with no rub. I did this for my first couple set's, but I didn't like the sidewall height. So I then ran a 295/35 and my latest is the max: 305/35's, but I have a tuner to fix the computer for the speedo. I have 275/35's on the front. HTH
  10. The a/c line is near the bottom right side of the radiator. If you don't have brake cooling hoses then it should be easily visible from the bottom.
  11. I had 3 other places to look: brake duct hose rubbed hole in a/c line; a/c line being rubbed by Shelby/C&R radiator; and a/c line at the receiver/dryer being rubbed by the KR/FRRP strut tower brace. I was driving in 100+ degree in the south when the a/c went out. I had to wait to get all the way back north before I could figure out where all the refrigerant went. When I found it I installed a new a/c line, orifice tube, and a receiver/dryer. It was while I was replacing all these parts I found that there are multiple places that the a/c lines rub. I'm using plastic conduit over the lines at these spots and check them often. It did take 50k miles and 5 years before it rubbed all the way thru though.
  12. I bought my last set for the same conversion from Revan Racing. They also will sell/ship Brembo or Motul brake fluid with the lines. I have been running Motul in all of my Mustangs for the last 17 years on and off track with no issues, but you can't go wrong with any high temp fluid.
  13. This should help get you started in the right direction - http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/41274-revan-racing-heat-exchanger-installation/ I do have 2 copies of the installation instructions in my files...just have to dig them out and scan them in. I've done this job twice with no issues.
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