Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About palacekeeper

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/03/1968

Contact Methods

  • MSN

Profile Information

  • Region
  • Interests
    occasional drag racing, mods - just enjoy cruising around
  1. Thanks! Seems pretty straightforward - provided that they order the correct one that has the proper Cobra logo :-). Hopefully there is a little better way to remove the plastic bolt covers than with a screwdriver prying by the edge. I can see that scratching something pretty easily.
  2. Quick question on the 13-14 airbag replacement for the driver's side. In the video, he states that it's only 2 bolts and he shows the the back of the steering wheel cover that has been removed. He then mentions that for the 13-14 models, the whole airbag is replaced, but he doesn't show that, nor does he mention what additional steps are involved for the 13-14 (such as what else might need to be removed), if there are any. Can anyone clarify what exactly is needed for the driver's side on the 13-14? Is it still just 2 bolts or are there other steps needed to replace the whole air bag? My '13 is a garage queen at the moment (for the winter weather) so I'm looking into this on the off season. Thanks!
  3. Thanks all. I ended up doing this over the holidays and it turned out really well. Moving the center link was easy and only required removing the two bolts that secure it to the frame on the one side. The pan now has no leaks, but I'm not yet sure if the rear main is leaking or not - mainly because the weather has not been good enough to take it on for a decent run. There are minor traces of oil that appeared around the bottom of the bell housing after I took it for a short ride last week, but I can't tell whether that was residual oil left over inside from before, so I'll have to drive it more to find out. If it turns out that the rear main is leaking, what do you all think about whether it's worth it to have that seal replaced? I don't have the expertise so I'd have to get it done at a shop, which also most likely means removing the transmission and replacing the pan seal again. The trans has zero leaks because I had it refurbished at a transmission shop. Bottom line is that the only mechanical leak the car may have at this point is the rear main. Is it worth it to have it replaced and potentially reintroduce other leaks, or is it just completely unrealistic to expect to get the car to the point where it doesn't leak? I can't help but think that when the car was new it wouldn't have been acceptable to have leaks, but maybe small drips were acceptable at that time?!
  4. Thanks, I think I did have a thread going over there a few months ago, but I never got a totally clear idea of what exactly needs removing and more importantly - how to remove them. Specifically, the steering parts are the issue. The other parts are easy to remove. Maybe I'll post the same pic on the other forum at the risk of looking pretty dense at this point.
  5. Ok, so I guess the next quest will be to determine what is involved with the center link removal. Is it just removing a few bolts or is steering fluid and other considerations involved? I don't want to mess it up by removing something that I can't put back correctly, you know?
  6. I've been working on chasing down leaks the last few months and have made a lot of progress. At the moment, I only have one leak left, as far as mechanical fluids (back window seal leaks, but that is another story). I have a drip coming down the bell housing. I've already replaced valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gaskets. The best I can tell is that it is coming from either the oil pan gasket, rear main seal, or both. I want to try replacing the oil pan gasket first, since I think I can actually manage to do that myself. I have the car on a lift in my garage, and I'm following the factory service manual instructions, which read as follows: 1. Remove the oil level dipstick. 2. Raise the vehicle. 3. Drain the crankcase. 4. Disconnect the starter cable and remove the starter. 5. Remove the bolts retaining the sway bar to the chassis. 6. Remove the two bolts retaining the number two crossmember to the chassis (Under the engine). 7. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts. 8. Turn the crankshaft for maximum clearance and remove the oil pan. I have a question about what actually needs to be moved out of the way, and was wondering if someone could help clarify. I've attached a picture of the underneath of the car in this area. If I've identified things correctly, #1 - "number two crossmember" #2 - steering center link #3 - factory sway bar For step number 5 above, do they really mean remove the sway bar as shown in arrow #3? It doesn't seem to be in the way of the oil pan. The "steering center link" bar does run underneath the pan, though. Do they really mean the "steering center link" (arrow #2) when they are referring to the "sway bar" in step number 5? Still learning as I try more things, so my apologies if these questions are somewhat elementary. Thanks for any help and suggestions!
  7. I'm in Anne Arundel County, MD, not too far from Annapolis area. I'm looking for a good shop in the area based upon referrals that knows how to work on older Mustangs (mine is a 1970 Mach 1). I'd like to find a decent shop in my area that I can trust to do a good job, and that really knows the older cars. Current quest: chasing down oil leaks! Any suggestions are appreciated!
  8. Thanks Shelby001!!! Looks like they do have it in stock. I sent them the link to see if they can check on it. Really appreciate it - I spent hours last night with Bing/Google and found a bunch of stuff (mostly out of stock or for the 351W) but must have missed that one!
  9. Still finishing up some work, and the power steering pump that was installed as part of a kit is bad. Now we are having trouble locating one that comes with a reservoir and that will fit the Cleveland engine. Places like West Coast Cougar (don't carry one with the reservoir, apparently), Summit & Jegs (out of stock till mid March) and even Amazon (backordered) are all striking out for us. Anyone have any online sites that carry harder to find parts like this for classic Mustangs? Any help is appreciated, thanks!
  10. I recently ordered a Challenger lift that came with 36" ramps. The ramps are too short for the chin spoiler on a 2013 GT500. I had race ramps with an extension before, and was able to overlay the extension on the 36" ramp as a temporary workaround. My question is this: Is anyone using ramps that are around 50" successfully for a newer GT500? If so, I can probably safely order the 50" extended ramps for my lift. Just want to try to minimize the chances of them not working because the restock and return shipping would making returning them pointless! Thanks for any info on this!!
  11. Thanks GT500-2007, I ended up going with the Challenger 9000 lb 4-pole lift from Costco. Pretty nice lift - straightforward and seems sturdy. Very good deal considering it included shipping and installation for $2999! It was normally $3999 but they had it on sale during Black Friday week. Sure enough though, the 36" aluminum ramps were not long enough, so I used the extender from my old race ramps for temporary workaround. They do sell a 50" extended ramp, aluminum. I found a place that sells them for $372 and free shipping (verifying that, though). I'll check with Race Ramps to see what they have. Thanks for the tip!
  12. Thanks! Well I ended up deciding to go with a 2 row aluminum Griffin Exact Fit aluminium radiator. And, they are going to paint it black with black radiator paint (apparently a special paint for radiators). This radiator is an exact fit, apparently, so I'm thinking it should look close to original and perform very well. Decided to hold off on the A/C for now, mainly because they want too much for it, imo. I can pay the same price later to add it if I decide to do that. Would have been nice to get it done but I was on the fence with the Vintage kit anyway because it seemed to include round center vents instead of rectangular (like the factory ones). They probably could have swapped them out, but I decided to hold off since I'm in no rush and there was no real price break.
  13. Anyone have any recommendations on aluminum radiators? So far, I've heard that BeCool and Griffin are both very good. Thanks.
  14. Thanks! - in calling a few places (BeCool, Griffin) it sounds like the aluminum ones are two row, but they actually cool better than a 3 or 4 row copper. I like the idea of re-coring the existing tank with 3 rows, I guess assuming that the tanks are in good shape. BeCool cautioned me about painting the aluminum ones because it can reduce efficiency if it clogs the fins a little. I'll know more once I hear back from the shop on what shape the original radiator is in. Thanks again for all the feedback, everyone.
  • Create New...