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About Shelby-At-Large

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    Team Shelby New Member
  1. I have a 2008 Shelby GT & am considering getting a different hood. With it's dimensions in mind, is there an easy way to find other hood styles with the same dimensions that would easily fit? In my optimistic mind I'm hoping there's a website feature out there where you plug in the make/model/year of your car & it spits out options for you, but that's got to be fantasy (not to mention lazy). I know nothing about the process, whether these have to be custom made or not, whether a different hood usually or always requires new front fascia, etc. Any info, advice, experience appreciated. I realize that anything can be custom made, but at least initially I want to see what I can get done sooner. And does anyone happen to know if replacing the hood cancels their extended warranty? I haven't checked mine yet. Thanks.
  2. We're reinstalling the hood scoop on a 2008 Shelby GT & don't want to use rivets. No body at Shelby will return my calls, so hopefully I can get answers here. What's known: - Need to use aluminum fasteners on aluminum hood. - Looks like there is space in the hood blanket underneath to allow for the fasteners to stick down some. - I can't find standard aluminum screws to easily purchase & Fastenal says they can make the screws from scratch, but don't have an aluminum locking nut for them. Questions: - What does the engine compartment temperature get up to? - We're looking at using a Nylock type nut underneath because they can be controlled & gently tightened, which is important since the hood is 2 thinner layers. I've read that nylocks are good up to 250 degrees. The nut would be between the blanket & the hood so presumably shielded from some of the heat. - Are you aware of an appropriate aluminum fastener to use, besides a rivet? - Fastenal says they'd have to make what I need, taking 3-4 weeks, & they don't have an aluminum nylon nut for it. The fastener we're looking at having made is a #6 aluminum button head cap screw, 3/4" in length, shaft close to 1/8" in diameter, head about 1/4" diameter, hopefully satin aluminum finish or considering blue (car is Vista Blue). I'd have to purchase one or both just hoping the colors match & can't return. - Do you have a source to convert American standard dimensions to metric? - Since having trouble finding a standard fastener I might have to look at going metric. Prefer not to. - If Shelby used a 3/4" rivet (shaft only), what length of screw would you recommend? - I'm guessing 3/4" + length for a nut (nylocks are longer than non-locking nuts) + if not a locking nut then extra length for a locking washer. Wonder if missing something... - I can't use steel at all, can I? What about a brass nut? - It will cause electrolysis on the aluminum screw &/or washer &/or hood. (I had this problem at both hood pins). Even just a steel nut can cause electrolysis to travel up the screw & potentially to the hood at some point. - Why is this such a damn hassle? Thanks for your help on this.
  3. I see it the same way. The 4 year old original Motorcraft battery I just replaced didn't have a speck of corrosion anywhere, & I live at the beach where humidity can be a real issue. I've read that humidity can cause corrosion, but in 4 months? And the dealership is 50 miles inland. I'm just trying to learn & not over-react, but I'm damn tired of dealing with ford dealerships & I'm still in the middle of the whole hood electrolysis/scoop/stripe fiasco.
  4. How do you interpret this situation?... I drove 50 miles yesterday & picked up a NEW battery from a ford dealership, paid full price. It's a Motorcraft BXT-40R (Max). I measured it & made sure it would fit, noticed it looks a little scratched up but I figured so what, maybe it's been shuffled around in the warehouse. When I got home, I popped the black plastic over off the negative terminal & there's a bunch of corrosion on the terminal, all of it hidden under the plastic cap. Then I also noticed the positive terminal has been recently scrubbed with a battery terminal cleaner (the wire brush type that scratches it to bare metal for a solid connection). Why is a "NEW" battery tinkered with & having corrosion on it? This seems used to me, unless you know of a way to cause quite a bit of corrosion under a plastic terminal cover. When I bought it I asked for a fresher one. He referred me to the brown sticker on the side that says '3/12' as it being March 2012, this is June '12 so 4 months old max, that's ok. But the stamp in the plastic battery case is 1M26AN2A. Somewhere in that stamp is a number for the year...there's no 12, so it's supposed to be one of the 2's? And the month is a letter from A to L, A being January, B Feb, etc...Well, the M before the first 2 doesn't translate to being any month, so the only part that makes sense is that the last 2 is the 2 in 2012, & the following A would be January? Do you seen any other way of knowing? That wouldn't be consistent with the 3/12 sticker. The water level is down about an inch to inch-&-half, but 1/8 to 1/4" above the tops of the plates, so they are covered. This sound ok to you? Why wouldn't the level being up near the top? What do you think about the terminal issues & interpreting the code? How long does it take for corrosion to build up on a terminal? 3 or 4 months? Why scrub one terminal clean & ignore the other corroded one? Do you know of a place to officially interpret a ford/Motorcraft battery code? Thanks for you insight.
  5. Thanks for all the responses. I hate to spend any money at this Ford dealership here who's misled, lied, been real immature, & sometime incompetent in my dealings with them. They don't deserve a cent from me. Next one is 50 miles away. Maybe I'll make that drive. Edit: What gives? On my original battery it says it's a Motorcraft AZ BXT-96R and 590 cca, but this Motorcraft spec chart says that battery is 500 cca? The charts other info (weight, dimensions) are pretty accurate. I had a guy looking up the details at his auto parts store that was talking about the same inconsistency. Both can't be right. http://machenry.com/documents/batteryspecs.pdf See any reason why I couldn't go with a different battery, like the BXT-40R? More cca & Reserve time. Weighs 5 lbs more, & is longer, but would fit in tray with modification.
  6. I did a height test & the lowest clearance in the battery tray is at the front, outside corner at 7 1/2". The Optima Yellow Top is spec'd at 7 11/16", so never mind that. Might have to go with Motorcraft, but hope not.
  7. Howdy. I need to replace the original Motorcraft BXT-96R battery in my '08 SGT and would like to know what you guys/girls did. I'd say the original lasted about 4 yrs sitting a lot (12k miles on it) without being trickle-charged, but prefer to go with a different brand. There seems to be good & bad feedback on the Optimas, but looks like mostly good. In that case, yellow top is better for me, but what concerns me there is the extra height. The original Motorcraft is 6 3/4" to the very top, the yellow top D35 is said to be 7 5/8-7 11/16" high, so getting pretty close to the hood there. Anybody put this battery in their engine compartment? I'd rather not reroute to trunk. It would be nice to hear what you did/bought, & where you bought. And it would be nice to know if you have any trick to measure the allowable height in the tray, from tray bottom to the inside of the hood when it's closed. I closed the hood onto an open tape measure that had 9" sticking up & was pushed down by the hood when closed, but I don't feel I can trust that much. Sure I can come up with something with more time. Point is I'm trying to figure out how high I can go with the replacement battery. Thanks.
  8. Thanks all for the replies. I need to go take a closer look at all these options. It looks like people are using a washer or something with the rivnuts? Definitely using aluminum. Have already dealt with the electrolysis issue at both hood pins.
  9. The guy that will install my scoop has never installed rivets & is nervous about it, so he's suggesting we install using nuts and bolts type. He's worried about not putting the rivets in straight, likes the install control that n 'n' bs offer, & trying to avoid the shifting that can occur & damage stripes. I know the fasteners will have to be aluminum, but so far I haven't found any that look good enough for the car. For me personally I'd like something that matches the silver stripes of my '08 Vista Blue GT, and is more low-key. - Anybody have any ideas for alternatives to rivets? I'll take all ideas at this point, though I do like how subtle the original rivets are. - Has anyone had any trouble widening the holes on their scoop? Just in case I find a nice fastener with a little larger diameter. - Anything we should know? We're aware that the hood consists of two layers, and we do have the install guide/instructions. Thanks for your help.
  10. I have a vista blue & my only problem is stripe wrinkling around the scoop on installation (still not resolved). And the old 1" blue stripe on the old scoop looks a little darker than the car, but the new one looks closer. I've read of people getting rain blotches on their vinyl stripes. The first few times I got home with rain on my new stripes I'd wipe them down, there'd be faint blotches afterward, I'd hold my breathe overnight & find them dry & cleared up the next morning. But after a few experiences in the rain they stopped blotching all together.
  11. I know many of you have had to have your original hood scoops & vinyl stripes replaced. Me too, for 2nd time now. I've been reading & reading here about your experiences (thank you for sharing), but one area I haven't found advise on is regarding putting the vinyl stripes on. They do have some experience, but I don't want to assume they know everything. It was wrinkled, then cracked open vinyl stripes around the base of the hood scoop that first got this whole thing going, so I want to help the body shop avoid this happening to them. Does anybody have any tips on that? It will be done soon, so this winter. I do realize that the wrinkles are formed when the scoop is attached, so basic tips on that would be helpful too. One thing that seems obvious is that it's best to let the stripes sit on the car for a while before putting the scoop on. Shelby says wait at least 3 days, but I'm thinking why not wait a week if not in a hurry. Agree? This will be done in the winter, so the shop (& probably the hood itself) will most likely be on the colder side... Do you think vinyl stripes would stick better at application if the hood & stripes were warmed up first (like wrap in a blanket the day before)? The "sticky" might stick better... Maybe the hood with the vinyl stripes on it ought to be a bit colder/stiffer at the time the scoop is installed, so the stripes are stiffer & less likely to move...? And a warmed up scoop might be more pliable as it's riveted & shaped to the hood... Yeah, I'm laughing with you at the idea of asking a body shop to warm up this & that, but I'm only thinking in terms of wrapping things in a blanket the day prior. Doesn't seem so demanding to me, & I can provide the blanket Whata ya think?... p.s. Yes, for now I'm doing vinyl & rivets. I just want this fixed & have my warranty end. Thanks.
  12. Hi Robert. I can't seem to contact you any other way but here. I have a problem with my stripes & you offered to help. Sent an email to you last week but no response yet. I'm Shelby-at-Large. Please contact me asap. Thank you.

    ..."we are willing to help with the material cost. Just let me know."

    Robert Lane


    Team Shelby / SPP Group<...

  13. I don't feel comfortable putting anybody's name on the internet, though I'm pretty sure I did write it down. Here's the contact phone # for the folks informing me up to now: 1-800-367-3788. As far as my direct communications with them goes, they've been nice & professional & patient with my questions. My issue isn't with them per se, it's with how the customer service end has been handled, the policy change right in the middle of the work, & a lack of communication with me. I'll call Roger today to see what can be done from here. Still so many of my questions haven't been answered, but a lot of people are trying. Thank you very much. I keep saying Shelby because that's who I'm primarily dealing with. Ford has been handling my warranty mess as primarily a middleman, but they're handling very little. They had to send the claim to Shelby, along with pics of the original prob to get approval of warranty work, & again with the new problem. Shelby had to approve of the bodyshop to do the work, & also the one I would like to take it to next time. They've been sending new parts to the dealership, & want the old stuff sent to them. All this is under a Shelby warranty, the problem being with Shelby materials (technically, from the improper installation there of by Shelby). Shelby originally approved of all the work, & now not so much. How do I not say Shelby this & that. Of course I'm somewhat frustrated with the bad bodyshop, but mostly only if I'm forced to go there again for full warranty coverage, which Shelby has been saying. Are you saying there's no such thing as a Shelby warranty? & that if there is such a thing, that they're not obliged to honor it? Let me state again that I'm not bitter toward Shelby & I'm not writing here for insults sake. I'm frustrated. I did try to research the bad bodyshop, but first I tried to completely avoid ANY bodyshop in the low population area I live in. When I met a lot of resistance from the dealership doing that, I reluctantly decided to trust their professionalism. I didn't know of any other option since THEY were the ones communicating with Shelby. Noone (the dealership or Shelby) told me I had say in the matter at all. In fact, they reassured me the bodyshop "has a good record" "does quality work" and Shelby has to approve their work & does approve of their work. As a customer not working in the auto industry in any way, this being my first Shelby & I not needing to interact with them until this, well, why not go with trusting the professionals. A small business like this can't be researched much, but I did ask around a bit. People said they were good. You're right about the gut check. I was afraid they'd be too casual & too inexperienced for this job, & they were. Thanks again for everybody's info & opinions.
  14. I'll try my best to contact Roger or Robert tomorrow. I never said I was giving the facts, I'm just telling it as I see it. Feel free to give me/us the straight scoop on warranty stuff. Yes, Shelby has been sending the parts to my local dealership, who can't do the body work; they've been sending stuff to the local body shop who screwed it up. Robertlane, thank you for offering to help with the material cost. I'm guessing by that you mean the new stripes. I don't know who you are, but I appreciate what you've said. When I went in & talked to the bodyshop owner who messed the car up, he vaguely admitted they had screwed up, & vaguely confessed that it was their responsibility to pay for new stripes ($270), & rightfully so. They should have to pay to have it fully restored to where it was before they put the stripes on as well. Can I ask some questions? Please help me understand... - After the bodyshop screwed the car up, Shelby was telling me they were fully supporting me in finding a different shop elsewhere to fix & finish, that it would be covered under the original warranty, they "just won't pay the (shop that screwed it up)." Then all of a sudden Shelby tells me they'll only pay for a little over half of ALL the parts & labor, including the parts/labor that the crap shop had done & whatever another shop needs to do. One minute I'm fully covered & supported under warranty, then this shop screws me over, and all of a sudden I'm only covered if I have it fixed with the crap shop, even though they (Shelby) said they supported me finding another shop to do the finish. What changed? Why the change? If Shelby had to approve of the crap bodyshop to do the work, why wouldn't Shelby be responsible to take care of the customer who was screwed over & they (Shelby) deal with the crap bodyshop? Why should the customer be forced to have his/her work done at a shop that's grossly negligent in order to have the work done under warranty? And why does the customer practically have to consult a lawyer to figure out who of all these businesses is responsible for what, in regards to screw-ups & costs? What is implied by Shelby saying "just won't pay the (shop that screwed it up)"? The dealership only acts like he's the middleman between Shelby's warranty work & the bodyshops involved. All he does now is shrug his shoulders. Are they more responsible in all this? He contacts Shelby, he relays that info to me, if I have info (like pics of the damage) he sends that to Shelby, he gets & will eventually send parts back to Shelby, that's all I see & understand. Does the dealership have more culpability? Did the dealership have any right in strongly professionally encouraging my ultimate decision on which shop to initially go with? Do you think the customer should be forced to have repairs of repairs done by the same business that was so incompetent? If so then I'm stuck with this company or pay out of pocket for quality warranty work and that's the product I purchased & I'm forced to put pressure on the screw-up bodyshop. That doesn't seem right. It seems that Shelby should go over the itemized charged of what the crap bodyshop did, pay for the legitimate work they did & not pay for the damage they caused (forcing the crap shop to sue Shelby (a big business, not some individual customer) for work they screwed up, & pay for a new reasonable bodyshop to repair the damage & put the scoop on. I don't see why Shelby is treating me like this over maybe $600-$700, when this is warranty work. It just seems like a no brainer to me. The crap shop wouldn't have a case to collect charges on faulty work. Why didn't Shelby just call this shop & deal with it, instead of everybody handing me everything. I'm extremely busy, my mind's on a hundred issues (some very serious), I'm no moron but I acknowledge that I might be missing the obvious. Please explain. Thanks again to everybody, especially the fellas saying contact me. I plan to do so soon. But it would still be nice to understand the above. Besides keyboard drama this can be a learning experience.
  15. Finally made it back. Very busy. Thanks a lot for all the responses; thought I'd only get 3 or 4. And noone called me a newbie What a respectable bunch. I don't think the thread should be shut down because I & maybe others can learn at least a little something from all this. I'm not at all interested in slamming Shelby or Ford; on the contrary, I've always highly respected both. I'm just wanting to get my truth out & see if anybody else has advice, and a big part of it for me is to help anybody else who might have to deal with any facet of this in the future. $ comes & goes, but ethics & learning are much more important. To try to answer some of the questions/points: - To clarify for anyone still following the details, there are 4 businesses involved here: 1 - My local Ford dealership - They don't have a bodyshop so had to contract out the body work. They filed the initial claim to Shelby to have the work done under the Shelby aspect of the warranty. 2 - Shelby (warranty area) - I've had to contact them for several Shelby-specific concerns & questions. I suspect I know them all by voice, as well as name. They've been really nice up til recently. 3 - A local bodyshop - Who did the screw-ups. 4 - (Hopefully) Another bodyshop to fix the damage & finish the original job. Regarding warranties, there are two, one with Ford & one with Shelby. The Ford one was 36 months bumper-to-bumper/50 or 60 months powertrain. I think of it as covering the Mustang aspect. The Shelby warranty is also 36 months, runs concurrently with the b-b, & covers the Shelby aspect of the car (stripes, scoop, hood pins). You can extend the Ford warranty, but not the Shelby one (but Shelby can extend their own). I'm not quick to use the word sue. I mostly hate the idea & don't have time for it, but sometimes it is necessary. Something important just came up & I have to go. Will try to get back here tomorrow. Thanks again for the input.
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