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About GR40Freak

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    Team Shelby New Member

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  1. I am. Just finished the roll cage and the body work. Time for sanding and blocking and sanding and blocking, and more sanding and even more blocking and then eventually a few coats of Ferrari Grigio Titanio. Car was recently in Hot Rod magazine. http://www.hotrod.com/featuredvehicles/hrdp_1005_hot_rod_project_builds/1964_chevy_nova_competitive.html Colin As soon as Ford can produce an engine capable of the output, reliability and WEIGHT of a built LS7 I'll install it. Until then the LS7 stays. Colin
  2. HAHAHAHA. You got it. I just added A LOT of power to the car and I'm filming while testing it this weekend at Infineon, if anyone that wants a ride come out and call me when you get there to find me. Colin (415) 886-RACE (7223)
  3. Latest one, Testing at Thunderhill with Corvettes and Porsches: Colin
  4. Also you guys I have made a few new videos but I don't have sufficient privileges to post them in the video section. Feel free to post them. Chasing a Porsche 911 Race Car: Random external footage taken and compiled by a customer at Infineon Raceway called "Saturday Practice": Colin
  5. Again it depends on the tires as well as several other things. But if the GR40SS had at least 285s up front and 305s or 315s on the rear and they were on a skid pad... maybe. In the real world, like a road course, the brakes and power on the ZR1 are far superior. Colin
  6. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jerk_%28physics%29 PS2s are great tires but no tire is going to be able to put ALL of the power of a modded GT500 down. The new Goodyear F1 Supercar the comes on the 2011 GT500 is great also. Colin
  7. It allllllllllllll depends on the tires. Good race tires. 1.6 static, 2.2 jerk. In fact all of the GR40 suspensions will surpass 1.0G. Easy. Colin Sebern CorteX Racing
  8. Sigh... It is a waste of money for an S197, you will be stiffening nothing. Do the research. If you don't believe me, call John or Bruce Griggs. Colin Sebern CorteX Racing Driver - Griggs Racing
  9. Car looks good but don't bother with adding subframe connectors, those cars don't need them. Colin Sebern CorteX Racing Driver - Griggs Racing
  10. I'd avoid the Toyo R888 as they are really noisy on freeway speeds. The Toyo RA-1 is actually better and makes no noise. Colin Sebern CorteX Racing
  11. I have to disagree with this. The benefits of having a track tire for beginner use helps with two major things. First a novice driver is going to overdrive the car, overuse the brakes and generally drive "messy" if you will. A sticky "street" tire is still susceptible to "chunking" (pieces of the tire coming of in chunks) when they get hot. A track tire will resist this far better than a street tire will and more than likely actually last longer. Second... We aren't driving Miatas. Track tires are cheap insurance when it comes to helping to avoid a driving mistake. There is no need wad up a $50K plus Mustang when a better tire could have saved you or at least given you more feedback before the car is about to spin giving you the chance to correct. That being said I would start with the Toyos before graduating to the Hoosiers. The Toyos work better at less than optimum temperatures. Colin Sebern CorteX Precision Technology Driver - Griggs Racing
  12. I use the Jongbloeds JRW305 18x10.5 with 315/30/18 Hoosier R6s on all four corners. The wheels are 18lbs. each and retail at $1100 each although they can be had for about $3800 a set. I have seen less expensive wheels that are fairly light as well including Enkei, SSR, and CCW. Depending on your suspension you can use at least a 285 up front, and up to a 305 if you have a Griggs GR40SS front end. Stick with an 18" wheel. Better tire selection, I recommend the Toyo RA-1 or Hoosier R6. Colin Sebern CorteX Precision Technology Driver - Griggs Racing
  13. My advice is to you is to do your homework. Just because someone makes something doesn't mean it will actually do ANY good to your car. There are several companies making parts that just make your car heavier and your wallet lighter. I can tell you that road racing your car (which I routinely do) will place far higher loads on a car then drag racing will and there is no need to "brace" anything in your car with the exception of the strut tower brace and factory convertible X brace. There are several people on this board that know what they are doing. If drag racing is your thing than start doing some research on it. Use the search button. I can think of several reputable companies that are good to deal with. JLT & Revan Racing are exceptional, I have done business with both. I hear the Evolution and Lethal really know there stuff to, and they obviously know how to make a GT500 really perform in the drags. Colin Sebern CorteX Precison Technology
  14. A Watts Link keeps the rear axle from moving laterally during bump travel. It allows the use of wider tires as you no longer have to worry about them rubbing from the panhard bar movement. Do you need one as a drag racer? Probably not. Assuming the tires are the same on two different cars a Watts Link wouldn't cause any increase in drag racing performance versus a panhard bar. They do have an impact on cornering as the chassis will "set" faster going into a corner. Just driving my car around on the street and occasionally hitting the strip.. I wouldn't bother. There are much better things that you can spend you money on. Colin Sebern CorteX Precision Technology
  15. The Griggs Racing Watts Link can be used on a convertible. No problem. I've installed several of them. Colin Sebern CorteX Racing
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