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About msb64

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  1. Looks like you have all the parts, although I think your hp estimate is low, with all those goodies you should be closer to 700rwhp. I have stock exhaust manifolds, stock cats, all stock pipes right to the back, only change I made in the exhaust was from the stock GT500 mufflers to the Ford Racing KR ones. I made a typo on the injectors, I have the Ford 56lb injectors they offered with their 800hp kit. Eventually I'd like to go bigger on those, but do not need to push things at this time. I feel that I am already too close to the safe HP limit for my stock long block. I haven't dynoed my car with the VMP blower yet, but years ago when I was running an FRPP TVS the car produced more rwtq than rwhp, guessing the stock exhaust system (including the stock mufflers) might have something to do with that. On a Powerdyne dyno it made 624 rwhp and 645 rwtq. Even at that level the car was in the low 11s (123+ mph) with a set of M&H 325/50/15 drag radials and stock 3.23 gears, which were further reduced by the taller M&Hs. Tempted to try another set of M&H tires at the strip now with the increased power and 3.73 gears. I have already relocated my bump stops and brackets out back, would just need to relocate the rear sway bar to clear the 15" Racestar wheels. Our local strip last year had resurfacing issues, so that as well as poor weather made a mess of the 2017 season. Hoping for a lot better this year, it is a lot of fun when you get that power to the ground.
  2. I have been running pretty much the same setup for some time now, with a few small variances like VMP Gen2 blower instead, and I am still running the full stock exhaust except for switching to KR style mufflers for better flow. Everything else you listed is the same as I have been running, other items that come to mind are colder plugs, 57 lb injectors, 94 octane e10 fuel, 10% over lower and Nitto 555R 285 drag radials. Mine has plenty of torque at almost any rpm, and can easily overwhelm the drag radials on the street or strip if I launch at anything over 2500 rpm. Last time out to the strip (fall 2016) the car was running low 11s at over 127 mph on a so-so track and having to drive the car off the line for traction (poor 1.9 60 ft at best). Also, I am still using their base tune as well, haven't got around to data logging and fine tuning either, something you should probably take advantage of. You have all the right parts so it should be just a matter of dialing everything in for your preference. Not sure what injectors you are using, but with my combination, to safely run the 2.4 upper would require bigger injectors. From what you describe it sounds like maybe your previous mufflers may be coming apart internally creating some blockage, having that happen in your mufflers or cats will definitely cause you a lot of grief. As for the sound, I really like the sound of the KR mufflers myself, reasonably quiet with normal driving but let loose when you get hard on the throttle.
  3. Sounds like a nice car, and at a nice power level too. Strongly agree with 1 Alibi 2, take inventory of your mods, many of which you can identify yourself too. Common engine upgrades for that power level are: Blower (you have already indicated) Injectors CAI Throttle body Oversized lower pulley Upper pulley Tune for available fuel Fuel pump boosters Other items to look for are: Heat exchanger PCV oil interceptor (passenger side) At that power level (700HP crank or higher) also look for 1 piece aluminum or carbon fiber driveshaft Aftermarket steel or billet lower control arms with at least red poly bushings Aftermarket upper control arm and bracket with at least red poly bushings If you didn't get a handheld tuner as asked above, you might want to consider getting one. That way you can tweak the tune for your mods plus the fuel(s) you plan on running. Changing the tune takes only minutes, I consider it to be a must have. Consider using a reputable tuner such as Justing at VMP to optimize the tune for you setup and needs. If you are not sure about identifying some of your mods, post some clear photos and someone should be able to help you identify them.
  4. From last year, my GT500 vs Camaro at 5:15 and against a Super Cobra Jet at 5:58. Driving the car off the line and into 2nd gear as my Nitto 285 555Rs will not hold hard launches or fast shifts even at the strip.
  5. The ported M-122 is a bit of an unknown but the rest looks straight forward. I would estimate around 560 rwhp with that combo, and you have good cooling mods to deal with heat soak.
  6. Those are great numbers, the mph indicating plenty of HP too. I am stuck in the low 11s, can't seem to get a decent 60 foot time at our local track with the car setup like it is. I remember plugs in the past with multiple electrodes, but can't remember which one they are. After reading up a bit on the E3s, they do sound interesting. With their rigid electrode design, I wonder if you can close up the gap for higher boost applications, or do they have to make them with smaller gaps?
  7. Long time drag race fan myself, E3 is one of the more recent sponsers, as well as Denso. If you notice racers have also endorsed NGK and AC Delco and some others that escape me, now and in the past. Some others are less obvious if they are not big dollar sponsers, don't forget they get paid to run those stickers, the bigger the stickers the larger the sponsorship dollars. The Ford oem platinum plugs work just fine, just remember to go a step colder and reduce gap at higher than stock boost levels. At higher boost levels you should also be changing them out more frequently too. It shouldn't hurt to try another good brand plug though, just make sure to select the correct plug type and heat range for your application.
  8. I live in a moderate climate which usually is only in the 70s F in the summer, so cooling is not much of an issue for me so far. I am still running all stock components for that, and even with numerous back to back passes at the strip, never noticed signs of heat soak (such as reduced mph). It all depends on the climate where you live though, I always like to play it on the safe side if you can afford it. Never hurts to ask BJ or Justin at VMP for advice on that, they do mods like that every day and will have a lot of experience in that regard. Personally I love the KR mufflers, and want to get a spare set before they disappear like so many other 07-09 parts have, like KR brace, KR short shifter and Ford Racing shift arm/ball. At the 800hp level and especially with long tube headers, cat life can become an issue, even with high flow aftermarket cats. If you drop or gut the cats, then you look at increasing noise levels which change the exhaust sound/volume, something that just installing long tube headers alone will do. At this point my cats are holding out, and I definetly do not want to increase the exhaust noise, it is already more than loud enough for me at wot. The engine savers I decided on were listed earlier, reduced rev limiter, reduced shift points, super dampener, conservative pulley, 94 octane fuel only and frequent oil changes irregardless of miles (typically only 2000km per season). A less obvious one was the passenger side PCV oil interceptor, once you remove a blower without one, on a motor with medium to hard pulls or has been tracked you will find a substantial amount of oil residue covering the heat exchanger under the blower. That is definitely not high pefomance, and will definitely contaminate the intake charge. Next upgrade I am considering will probably be going to some bigger injectors like the ID75s or so, to give me a bit more headroom there.
  9. Should also mention as an added precaution, I set my raptor shift light to 5800 and lowered my rev limiter to 6100 rpm. No need to push the rpms with that kind of torque and hp in a street car. Driving the car off the line I am at just over 127mph in the quarter so far, haven't been back to the track since I installed the heavy duty VMP tensioner.
  10. That was VMPs recommended limit, and I don't like to push the edge. I went with the 10% over lower mainly for the added motor protection of a high quality dampener. It is a bit cranky to install with hand tools, I needed a 3 foot extension on my biggest breaker bar to get it loose, and had to put the car in 6th gear with ebrake and blocks to keep the car from moving. I am not a fan of using impact tools on any motor, especially on the crank, and torque everything I can with a torque wrench. I installed a new torque to yield dampener bolt, and that was easier than breaking the oem one loose. Some pretty scary flexing on my breaker bar, even though it was a beefy one. No need to go to E85 or race gas, car is already making more power than I can get to the ground at the strip, and I don't want to get into dedicated strip suspension components. Still running full stock exhaust and cats too, with the exception of KR mufflers, they sound awesome at wot.
  11. Fortunately for all Photobucket or other similar apps are not required Save any image to your desktop (or wherever you want) and then upload it to the Shelby site from there.
  12. I am running their 820HP for 2 years now, although I went the route of piecing it together part by part as I went along. It looks like their current package price is a better deal. The 820HP kit essentially has the same major hard parts as the 720HP kit, other than the fuel and spark mods and a tune adjustment. I feel the pump boosters and injectors are a must, as you defintely don't want to run into a fuel delivery/lean issue, it cant destroy pistons and cylinder head parts in no time. Generally when you go to significantly higher boost, you go one step colder with the plugs and reduce the plug gap to minimize possiblity of detonation under high boost. I have also added the JLT 123mm CAI and the Shelby PCV oil interceptor on the passenger side (works very well). You could have them tune the car to the 720HP level if you want, but add the fuel and spark upgrades as a safety cushion. I am currently running the 2.5" pulley, and with that I am at the safe limits of the 56lb injectors, something to keep in mind if you want to go to the 2.4" upper. I went to the ATI 10% over Super Damper as well, for engine protection and the ability to run a slightly larger pulley up top for belt grip. It turned out that I needed to upgrade my tensioner as well, as I started getting belt slippage at the top of 3rd and 4th gear at the drag strip. I went with their heavy duty tensioner and so far it seems to be working fine, I am already running the Gates Racing Blue Blower and Accessory belts. I had them build the tune for E10 94 octane fuel, and it is the only gas I have put into the car since it was new. For the kind of power levels you are considering, definitely look into beefing up your drivetrain if you haven't already. I am running the 2011 GT500 clutch assembly (tsb replaced), Dynotech 1 piece aluminum driveshaft, BMR Upper and Lower rear control arms with red poly bushings, a Drake Musclecars heavy duty UCA bracket and a J&M adjustable panhard bar. So far no broken parts and the car is still very streetable. One fun side effect is tire spin even in 3rd gear with 285 drag radials
  13. In post 7 & 8 of this thread, Bikeboy shows photos of his cars with the H&H springs installed in the rear http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/91262-lower-rear-of-2007-gt500/ Brings the back end down just enough to get rid of the "Hot Wheel" look.
  14. Pic 7 is your panhard bar, that is a double adjustable model which means that you can adjust it while it is still on the car, that is a good piece. Pic 8 shows poly joints at the front end of your LCAs, which is a good blend of performance and streetability, also a good piece. Pic 9 (same as Pic 6) is your adjustable Upper Control Arm attached to a heavy duty Upper Control Arm Bracket, both are good pieces as well. I would keep all of those pieces on the car (including driveshaft), and remove the bolt-on lowering brackets, you can sell those off (approx $120 for new ones). Once you get the springs you want on the front and back of the car, you might want to have someone check/adjust the rear pinion angle. That is usually done on a 4 post lift with the car sitting on all tires (suspension loaded). Not sure about the possiblity of removing the caster camber plates as I have never dealt with those before, maybe someone can help with that.
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