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About svtmattUT

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    Long live Shelby

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    Vehicle design and engineering, programming, and generally making things better/faster

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  1. A few months ago my Shelby started making this rattle sound. I’ve owned it since new and it has 24k miles. I recorded it with a remote mic in the engine bay to get a better recording. I could really use your help if anyone has come across this. Most prevalent around 2k rpm or so. Has a pulley, tune, frpp tb, and resonator delete air tube. I took it in and they think it’s piston slap, they cut the oil filter open and there are no metal particles. They said, don’t worry about it and get used to the new sound. Video -> https://youtu.be/b9qG5NgR6To thanks in advance
  2. I would probably post a new topic under rear end noise and see if you get some answers. I have piles of stock Goodyear F1 front tires from the shelby factory, they aren't the best tire but they were cheap. I'm trying to use them up before they get too old and need to be scrapped. Mine don't make any excessive noise that I am aware of but I only run them on the fronts.
  3. With only a 9.5" rim how do you guys put any power down even at the stock power level? I know you said 350R (much wider wheel, less power, less weight) But do you know if the Sport Cup 2's break loose on a GT500? I'm considering them also. I'm buying a new set of Toyo R888R's every spring and I only drive 3,000mi a year.
  4. whenever a ford dealer has updated mine, they log it in the paperwork. Look at your receipt and see if there is anything that mentions that they performed a calibration update with a labor code by it. (They get paid for the work so they would log it to be reimbursed) Either way, get a tuner and look up the code. Also make sure the oil level is correct and that they reconnected the mass air flow sensor snugly on the cold air intake, both could have been affected based on your explanation.
  5. I have been going to ford dealers in Utah for over 25 years and it always ends the same way for me. It's fixed come pick it up, uhh no it's exactly the same, bring it back and we'll take a look; it's fixed; seriously did anyone even check this?; bring it back. Oh that is normal for this vehicle; no it isn't my neighbor has the exact same car!!! . If you don't want to fix it or don't have the ability, just tell me so I can take it elsewhere, "we get paid to fix it, why would we not want to fix it?" Good question, why don't you then? They did this again in 2015 and I lost it, I called ford corporate (literally the phone number in the footer of the ford.com) and they assigned me an regional escalation rep that called them out then contacted me every week to make sure they did it correctly. Guess what, they fixed in one trip. Henry day and Lhm sandy to be specific. The best dealer they ever had (fixed it first time every time) was Lapoint in Murray but was closed in the recession. What dealer are you using?
  6. Toyo R888. They make the correct size and they're made of super sticky track compound. I've run them for the last year on my mine and they rock. I have run Nitto 555R's exclusively on older Shelbys and Cobras but when I got my 13 they didn't make a size that fit. You can put oversized tires on a 9.5 wide rim at your own risk, but realize that if ford engineers had to knurl the inside lip of the wheel to keep the stock tire from rotating around the rim from that much torque, imagine what a sticky tire with compromised sidewall grip then you mod he car would do. I have not used the NT555, only the Rs because they were drag radials and meant to stick. The Toyo's stick just as good and the tread is deeper so they last much longer. Another bonus is they can evacuate water better than the NT555R which is shaved. The bad news is that Toyo doesn't make R888 for the front wheel size which would matter if you're an autocross guy. My 2 cents.
  7. Looks awesome. I would love one in my garage, but it'd have to be black.
  8. I can't hear any gear noise on mine on the freeway, literally none.
  9. Those forged Alcoas really are best option for that year, they look killer and fill the wheel wells perfectly. Good call.
  10. Exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much! 159 lb-in on 6 piston calipers is the official answer if google decides to index this for others.
  11. I bled the brakes for the first time and tightened the bleeder screw with what I thought was enough torque, obviously not as it leaked and sprayed on the wheel and trashed the finish . I have researched many forums and found nothing. The old 2011 manual a member posted years back (http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=764&viewfile=SPECIFICATIONS.pdf ) states 89 lb-in but that was the old 4 piston brembos on a 2011 GT500. Anyone happen to know for a fact what the torque should be on 2013-2014 GT500 6 piston brembos? I also found the installation manual for a similar (no shelby) 6 piston brembo and it said 120 in-lb. Too much and you strip it, too little and it leaks. Thanks in advance.
  12. I am inclined to agree with you considering the result but isn't the whole point of launch control, on the street anyway, is to control the wheel spin and translate that lost energy into forward motion rather than spinning wheels? But more importantly it's safety for me, high hp rear drive cars have a tendancy to get wild and snap around violently under some conditions, I'd like to keep it in one piece. Youtube is full of older corvettes and mustangs that start to lose it then suddenly snap around on themselves well after you get off the gas. The systems back did nothing to protect against this, but they do now. I don't want to characterize this issue as I'm spinning tires everyday everywhere I go, not the case. In all reality maybe once a month and always from a roll around 30-40mph. This shelby has not seen a drag strip yet but considering a prepped track, I would agree that turning off the controls there would make sense being a controlled environment designed to stick evenly. But as fellow owners of this car you know all to well that breaking the tires loose from a roll or 30mph isn't unheard of so either I got a faulty caliper from the factory or like you mentioned, it's total user error and should disable all safetynets if I predict that I may punch it at some point. Again referring to the original question, has anybody had rear calipers replaced under warranty? If there are multiple people than it probably is my theory that the T/C is toasting an underspec caliper, and a brake upgrade is advised as it will surely happen again. If not it's probably just a bum caliper and I needn't worry about it. Important to note that for the last 14 months I have run only super sticky Toyo R888's with R-Compound rubber, translation - They rarely spin. Also that I've owned many blown svt/shelby products over 20 years on track and street, and I'd like to think I'm know how to handle one properly.
  13. I have taken my 13 to the dealer multiple times now for rear brake rotors warping and causing a squeaking chirping sound once they get hot. They turn the rotors and fixes it for a month then right back the way it was. With traction control on the brakes are applied to the slipping wheels, and the car can surely spin little 9.5" wheels with that much power. When you get out of the car those rear rotors are almost smoking. I finally got fed up and bought new rotors and pads and installed them myself. On those old mustang single calipers you put the tool in and rotate it like a dial to compress back in a little to get the rotor on, well the drivers side will turn really rough but does not actually move in. Assuming that means the caliper is toast? It seems like an obvious design flaw to put tiny calipers in charge of reigning in that much power on these cars, especially if they offered a track pack but you take what you get I guess. My question is has anyone else noticed this behavior or have rear calipers replaced on warranty yet?
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