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About Kostas

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    Team Shelby New Member
  • Birthday 04/04/1972

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    everything car related
  1. The only negative thing i have heard about the 4R70W, is that they are heavy.....
  2. Captain, with all due respect, your shifting is killing your et's. keep your right foot planted on the floor and bang those gears. Add some skinys up front and enjoy a mid-low 10 sec pass.
  3. Thank you!! I dont know if you remember, but we met at Atco last year, and we run against each other on first round of eliminations. We were talking about my first 10 sec pass that day and your auto trans, remember??
  4. You did the right think contacting SCT. If it was me i would just wait and see what they had to say....
  5. Lol....i actually lost power after the 9" rear. Car was on the dyno about a month ago and it made 660rwhp. My driving has improved, but as i always say "learning never stops"
  6. Thank you Dan! There is a good chance i wont be racing on this event at Atco, but i will definatelly be there Saturday and Sunday. Hope to see you guys there as well
  7. First off, I need to thank all my friends for helping, supporting, and being there for me! Chris, Chelo, Dave, Tony, Kory, Andy, Rob, my Friends at Evolution Performance, Kent, Fred, Nelson, Chuck, Shawn, for building my car, and Jon Lund for the awesome tunes!!! Mods currently are, TVS with upper and lower, 66mm L&M throttle body (changed to 72 a month ago), Ford racing 123mm CAI (changed to JLT 127 a month ago), 80# injectors 9” rear, wavetrack, 3.90 gears, antiroll bar, Evolution Performance Ultimate lowering suspension with Ford racing springs and adjustable shocks (changed rear springs to QA1 a month ago), Bogarts, slicks, Revan Racing Heat exchanger and radiator, and a bunch of other small stuff, mostly cosmetic. Well it all started at Cecil County on November of 2009. I was running drag radials on stock widened wheels, stock rear with 3.73’s and CJ throttle body. Two days of racing, first time EVER at the track. Made the first pass, got scared and let off after 3rd gear lol. It was bad!!! The second day there, I managed to make a couple 11.8 – 11.5 passes, and I was telling Nelson that I don’t think my car can run 10’s (Hey I didn’t know…2nd time racing ever), so he took my keys, and made a pass of 10.8 like it was nothing!!! I didnt race anymore that year, and next time out was at NMRA Bradenton Florida 2010. Was running the same set up as at Cecil, and I managed a few 11.1x and some 11.0x When I came back, we went ahead and put the new rear, Spec P trim, bogarts, slicks etc, and made it to the NMRA event at Atco 2010. After a bunch of 11.0x passes AGAIN, i really felt as I would never make a 10 sec pass until this. I know is not all that, but hey, my first 10 sec pass….. There was a lot more racing throughout the summer, I was learning the car, and I made quite a few 10.8x – 10.7x passes, trying to get my 60ft down. Best I had managed was in the 1.7x and I know it was killing my et’s. October of 2010 at NMRA Bowling green KY, is when everything started to change. 60ft still bad, but my driving started to improve (at least I think so), and I had a couple of PB runs there Started with a decent 10.69 pass and I also run a 10.61 after that (sorry no video) Ended with a nice 10.57 pass That was the last time I was at the track, until this year once again at 2011 NMRA event at Bradenton Florida. I was trying out different things and tunes with the car, and I made a few 10.5x passes. I was happy with those, being that it was kinda hot down there. Off to a track rental on March, about a week after I came back from Florida (yeah I was on a mission lol) things were getting even better for me. First pass, and best 60ft (1.65) almost lifted the front wheels, but I missed 3rd Second pass that day, and new PB (not by much, and 60ft of 1.71 still bad) And finished the day with this. I thought I was going to rip the shifter off, lol it was awesome!!!!! Last Friday I went back to the track. I was thinking to just take it easy on the first run, and go from there. The car hooked good ( 60ft of 1.61 still bad, but the best for me up to now) but everything else was more than I expected. Unfortunately I don’t have a video, but here is the time slip. Not bad at all for a little TVS! The car, definitely has a 10.2x -10.1x in it as it is now. Mile per hour is there. At the 8th mile, is usually 109-111, and I usually trap 134-136. At this last pass it went 137.12 at the ¼. I will be working some more on suspension and tire settings and who knows what would happen if I ever get the 60ft down to a 1.5-1.4 ……we’ll see.
  8. It dont matter. Im runing slicks and have all kinds of suspension mods. If youre making power, there will be wheel spin launching with the box. +1 on the no lift shift
  9. I have the WOT box for a while now, with no codes whatsover. Yes, if you're making decent power, the launch control is usless. I tried it at everypossible rpm at 2 track rentals, and it was nothing but masive wheel spin! As far as the TPS threashold, yes you can adjust it where lets say for example 3 Volts is wide open throtle, you set it at 2 or 1 volts so you dont have to actually be floored for the wot box to be activated, but that defeats the purpose of the box because there is no way of knowing how far down the gas pedal is, on every run. If you going to "play" with the gas pedal at launch then you can do that without the box.
  10. Take a look at this thread. This topic has been discused on other forums as well. Read my post #4. Slicks and suspension does nothing http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php?/topic/63158-wot-is-it-worth-the-cut/
  11. Great numbers Justin. Keep up the good work. Hey Tow, are you going to be in Bradenton again this year??
  12. I have the WOT box for over 3 months now with no problems. If is installed corectly it should be fine. Now as to how it works.... The no lift, shift feature is great. It feels like shifting with the engine off. Leaving it on the auto setting, IMO it seems to cut off ignition longer than what is needed. If you are fairly good in shifting, you can take it of auto, and adjust in miliseconds the ignition cut off time between shifts. The ideal setting, depends on your shifting abilities. You want to get just enough ignition cut of time to shift, and feel the car kinda surging forward after each shift, as if you were power shifting without the box. The launch feature, just dont work on our cars, or on any cars making a lot power. The WOT box will hold the set rpm but when you let of the clutch, you are launching at wide open throttle, initiating a massive burn out. I tried it from 3500rpm all the way down to 1200rpm and i just spun the wheels badly every time. Im runing slicks and have all the suspension mods, so car set up was not a factor. I also spoke to Jon from N2mb racing (great guy and awesome customer service by the way) and he spend almost an hour on the phone with me, going over the settings of the WOT box, to make sure it was installed, and functioned properly. We did changed some settings, but they made no difference in how the car launched.He offered to send me a replacement free of charge (even though i didnt purchased directly from him) and he also put me in contact with a couple of other people with Shelbys, and they also had the same issue as far as launching. With that said, there is a way (from what i was told) for the the launch feature to work. You would need a tune (im assuming is what mrfarmdog was refering to) where power, torque, and therefore boost, is controled, by limiting throttle blade angle/opening, and comes on gradualy at diferent rpm settings and gear, so when you are launching lets say at 3000rpm, and pop the clutch, you are not taking off at full power, making it easier for the car to hook and go. Such tuning would most likelly require some track testing, and lots of trial and error to get it to work just right, and when if / it does work, im sure the launch feature of the WOT box would provide some consistent and low 60' times. IMO if you track your car often, the Wot Box is a great addition even if only using the no lift shift feature. Jon from N2mb Racing is a great guy to deal with, and in my experience, customer service is great!
  13. You should be fine gaping them anywhere from 32-35. Torque them at 13lbs and it wouldnt hurt to use some antiseize on the threads.....
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