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axo250

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About axo250

  • Rank
    Team Shelby New Member
  • Birthday 08/14/1985

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  • Region
    Decline
  • Interests
    Motorcycles, Cars, Airplanes, Rockets
  1. Look here for instance. 2010 convertible with 190 miles. Essentially a brand new car. Only wants an offer over $40k. http://www.teamshelby.com/forums/index.php/topic/85685-2010-gt500-vert-190-miles/?do=findComment&comment=1552198
  2. I would pass. People that generally cannot make the payments on the car tend to abuse it knowing that they will not have it long. Shelby's are usually highly regarded by their owners and are well taken care of. Keep an eye on the Team Shelby Classifieds in addition to other places. I guarantee you will find a lower mileage car that hasn't been abused and probably never in the rain for just a few $1000 more.
  3. Just had another thought this morning, JJN. Give Justin Starkey a call at VMP tuning. He is one of the most trusted Mustang tuners in the world and happens to be in Deland. Though he likely won't tell you to bring your car to him for an oil change, he may be able to recommend someone in the area.
  4. I can tell you pretty much most all Ford dealerships around Orlando are garbage. I wouldn't let any of them touch my vehicle. You may consider giving Gary Yeomans Ford a try in Daytona. I haven't had experience with their service department (only dealt with parts) but they also have a fair number of Roush and Shelby cars. They are a huge dealership. It's fun just to check them out. Surely someone there is fairly competent but, as with anywhere, I would definitely ask around about a particular mechanic instead of just dropping the car off. As an aside, it sounds like you are somewhat undecided if you have an issue. I would definitely think twice before letting a dealership clown take your car out to see if they can replicate the problem. I might consider living with it rather than turning my car over to them for it, but I'm super protective over my car. There have only been a very limited number of people successful at getting parts replaced for that issue. Food for thought...
  5. Triumph is right, an extra 3-5psi rolling out of the supercharger sure livens up the sound. However the newer cars just aren't as loud as the 07-09 models. I don't know that there was a change in the superchargers other than starting in 13. So it may be purely a thing of better insulation starting in 2010.
  6. Minimal increase in supercharger noise. The superchargers just aren't that loud starting with 2010 and up. Definitely no power increase from the resonator delete.
  7. Hate to hear you aren't enjoying it as much there. You should look up the owner of that SS. He's in Charleston also. He started a few months back.
  8. Nice shot. I remember that day quite well! We had a lot of fun! Are you still out here?
  9. On my 2011, I have noticed that the battery gets weak (still cranks) after about a month's time. If not driving it, I put it on the Battery Tender every 2-3 weeks. I have not had to replace a battery yet. Keep in mind that simply cranking the car and idleing it in the garage does not provide a good charge. It takes some time and higher alternator outputs to really start charging a weak battery.
  10. I currently have Borla S Types on my 2011. They have a deep growl by themselves. Similar tone to factory axle backs but louder. I love the tone. I'm now looking at headers, but with a high-flow catted H pipe. I really think it's going to fit my tastes well. You may want to give consideration to the Borlas. From what I've heard on Youtube, it seems like the cats are a big factor in controlling the sound quality. Though I have heard some decent catless systems, it seems more difficult to get away from the tin cannish sound unless aftermarket resonators are added. Either way, please post back your results/findings. Best of luck!
  11. They can be painted if you find a decent painter. Rather than buy aftermarket dash trim for my dad's corvette (same type material), we took it to a local body shop and had the guy paint and clear it. The results were fantastic. Only required a light buffing with steel wool prior to paint. Highly recommend this option since you have to take the trim off anyway.
  12. I haven't added a subwoofer to my Shelby and never will. However I've had plenty of experience with subs in other vehicles. I'm very particular about my audio systems when upgrading. You would be amazed at what just an upgraded head unit would do. But I don't recommend that for the Shelbys. Staying within the limitations of upgrading speakers, the factory stuff probably isn't bad for the doors and back windows. Adding a sub would allow you to independently control your sub through the amp and get your nice highs and mids out of the factory speakers. I recommend a 10" sub at 250watts or 12" at 500watts for the trunk. My personal choice would be 500watts. I have never dealt with the speaker you mentioned. I do recommend a middle of the road JL or Eclipse. These two brands have the cleanest bass in my opinion. I have used JL amps on both for many years without issue. Highly recommend them. You can buy a gain adjustment knob to dial in the base if you like on the amplifier also (costs about $25). One thing you will likely have to purchase is an adapter to the factory head unit to send a signal to the amp. The adapters are usually cheap but the install is around $125 because its a pain for the installer to wire up. This adapter will ensure all your controls still work on your steering wheel. Just another tip is to have dynomat put in your trunk. It may not be required, especially for 250watts, but it really helps with any rattling that may occur. I just don't know how likely it is to happen with a smaller sub system in the Shelby. Hope this helps!
  13. Did you change the bulbs or just put tint on?
  14. Very interesting. Thanks for the info on how to get the lens out! Too bad no one makes a suitable tinted replacement!
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