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About Spectre500

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    750 of my favorite Pony's

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  • Region
    South Atlantic
  • Interests
    Muslce Cars, Hunting,Fishing, Guitar, RC Flying

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  1. I''l probably go with the aluminum tanks.. at least thats the plan for now... Unless Roush comes out with the larger tanks for the 13/14. With the 170 T stat the OEM coolant temps are running 176 and is doing a good job, but it would be nice to install the Shelby (C&R) rad a bit later. For now I'm working twords long tubes and some minor suspension upgrades and tire's. Should be doing a ARH long tube thread in the coming weeks.
  2. You are correct Isquared... this install thread is of the original 2014 OEM H/E and modding to the the Competition unit. Robert was just showing the difference between the original version of the Shelby (C&R) HE and the newer Competition Unit. Hope this clears it up.
  3. Mine came that way from Shelby performance parts through the guys @ C&R racing, my wife surprised me with it for my birthday. You can get them from C&R racing not stenciled and or Shelby Parts with the stencil or Van Collier @ Revan Racing. Van may be your best bet as he does his best to give you the most bang for the buck... I highly recommend him.
  4. Nice.. curious on what the build is going to run. They're putting down north of 1000 HP and are monsters with the KB's. Good Luck with your build.
  5. Sounds real nice Mr Haney, Thanks for sharing, Question did you do the ARH LT or did the shop install them? Reason I'm asking is I'm getting ready to do them and from the other forums I've seen where people have had to cut the ARH at the flange on the drivers side to get enough clearance for the dip stick tube. If I remember correctly when I did my Dynatechs it was tight getting the dipstick back in but we didn't have to cut or grind the header flange.
  6. Thanks guys, The Competition Unit really moves some air.. I was really surprised at how quiet the 11 inch fans are on this unit compared to the original CR unit i had pref on my 2010. The 5.4 and 5.8 really benefit from the cooling where it matters most IAT2 temps in traffic or at the strip. ' Next up will be 1/78 ARH Longtubes to help the Trinity breath better. Stay tuned.
  7. I'll chime in here, when I was doing my research I called Van as I have confidence in his knowledge of our cars. Why... simple he races our cars and has a ton of experience... He has raced both Whipple and Kenne Bell, and this is what convinced me to go KB: The KB rotor pack is superior, The determining factor for me. Call Van and he'll explain why in detail . The case is billet not cast, the LC of the gears. Shelby also chose to go 3.6 LC for the Super Snake for good reasons. Both are great blowers one has some distinct advantages over the other.
  8. NMA, are you having your engine built, if not what HP & TQ will you be running your 5.4. The 4.2 and now the 4.7 with definitely push the stock internal past failure.
  9. Yesterday I got busy and installed the competition HE with the help of a friend on my 2014 Shelby. Here in Fla with ambient temp in the 90's the IAT2 temps @ cruise were 135 as read on my Aeroforce interceptor gauge. In traffic I've seen it climb to 145+. The stock unit is adequate while your moving but doesn't cool enough while your stopped. The competition unit cooled the temps on the average of 20 to 30 degrees and IMO is one of the best mods you can do to combat heat soak. Todays ambient was 83 and the IAT2 never climbed above 120, car was heat soaked and in traffic. At night ambient temps were around 55 and the IAT2 @ cruise was 93. This baby work's. There is some trimming involved with the plastic air directors that sit on the left and right side, other than that its a straight forward install.
  10. Just a heads up for any 2014 folks who want a copy of their build info. 4816 Coups and 914 Convertables.
  11. My wife was so kind to buy me one for my birthday, Lucky Guy huh. Looks exactly like the CR unit that I used on my 2010. Except... it now has bigger 11 inch fans and the core looks to be a different color and is taller. She's gonna be cool now
  12. PullyMamoth just curious.. did you do the K member as well...? If not did you measure your clearance between the front part of the Sc and hood with putty and if so what kind of clearance are you getting? Also did you measure pinion angle with the 3/4 inch lowering mount?
  13. Yep, I had to go with the 3/4 in lowering mount to get my 2.8 to clear..... Umm hmmm.... The 3.6 is an inch taller... so its hood and K member time if I want to go 3.6.
  14. You guy's running a Aftermarket HE?..... Disregard.... I just saw the Steeda Triple Pass in your sig...
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