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About 08KR525

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  • Region
    Great Lakes
  • Interests
    Family, Performance vehicles, antiques.

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  1. Does anyone know where I can purchase the oil snout seal for a Ford Racing TVS? The aluminum pulley that I installed several years ago suddenly failed and before I replace it I want to change out the seal for peace of mind. The TVS has approximately 500 miles on it. I am having the snout machined down to accept a stock ‘13/‘14 STEEL pulley! Also, apparently a new improved double lipped seal is offered now but I have been unable to obtain a manufacturer & part number. Any help is appreciated. Thank you, Duane R.
  2. Thanks for info. I'll try to see if I can figure it out. I too am more comfortable with the desktop version to navigate through the site.
  3. Ok, I give up. How do you get to the Desktop Version on a mobile device? The way it's configured now is ridiculous.
  4. I've got the FRPP TVS on my KR and love it I would suggest that you take it easy if your running the stock clutch. I also added the '14 GT500's cf ds. Those two changes really transformed it into a much better performance car. GL
  5. That factory guage is not known to be very accurate. If your really concerned that something is wrong I would install a mechanical boost guage. Otherwise, if the car runs well with no issues I wouldn't worry about it. GL, Duane.
  6. We'll everyone is entitled to their opinion. I had Eric Vaughn fix the back spacing issue on my rear wheels. I guess my first impression of the KR was at their unveiling and they were outfitted with "20s.
  7. It's your car do what you want to it. I get as much enjoyment working on mine as I do driving them. It's therapy to me. I couldn't care less if I have someone's approval or not. I do keep all of my stock pieces and if for any reason wanted to sell I could return the car to stock condition pretty easily, as I understand that is what most people are searching for. Many of the Shelby and FRPP accessories that I've used have long been discontinued, so personally I think that makes my car unique.
  8. While I have read the same thing I think it's ironic that in following years the GT500 came out with "19s & "20s. I've changed both of my KRs over to the "20 Alcoas & while the ride is definitely firmer I don't plan in ever putting the stock "18s back on, especially since I've got the Shelby/Baer 6S all on four corners.
  9. The oversized idler will take up the slack created by the smaller pulley, so you can just utilize the stock belt as long as it's in good condition. I run this same setup on mine & have no issues. HTH.
  10. If your going with an 11" wide wheel you may need the adjustable phb to be certain that your rear axle is perfectly centered even though your currently not lowered.
  11. The wheel repair business that I've worked with on a few of these Alcoas has been in business for over thirty years. They believe that Alcoa's Dura-Brite process is a type of anodizing, which they claimed they could replicate if I wished that's all I'm saying. Alcoa states that the Dura-Brite process is "a surface treatment." That could mean just about anything. I do know that aircraft stripper has no effect on the coating and that the place I used to restore my wheels had to sand and polish the coating off. Unless Alcoa has recently changed their policy, I also know that they will not recoat these wheels. They are a wheel manufacturer and not in the business of wheel refinishing or repair. I along with others on TS had been in contact with Alcoa about this very thing. I only posted in this thread because I've read too many times where a fellow TS member is stressing because he thinks he'sruined his Alcoas. I can only relate my experiences and what I've learned through owning several sets of these wheels. Best regards, Duane
  12. The wheel repair businesd that I worked with was very informative about the Durabrite finish. They claim it is anodizing and not a clear coat paint or powder coat. When they tried to strip the Durabrite paint stripper didn't have any effect on it. The shop ended up hand sanding it off followed by polishing. It was very time consuming and it's a good thing I got a quote for the repair first! They could replace the Durabrite like anodizing but I liked the polished finish do well that I just left them bare. The shop also recommended this as they said any imperfections incurred from just driving the car could be corrected by polishing which can't be done if they were recoated. The wheels have been done for quite some time now and they still look fantastic. HTH, Duane.
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