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  1. I haven't been on TS much lately, but I read this thread thoroughly and MAN, you guys are really helpful and spot on!! I have a 2006 GT--H so it's pretty much the same as the S-GT. Mine is an automatic, but that stock suspension is NOT for everybody. It stays flat and is fun to corner in, but if your roads are less than perfect and you plan to do a lot of driving in town on common road surfaces you may like the GT500 better. I drove my friend's 2011 GT500 SVT package and it was a more "comfortable" car all around. Better seats and more comfy suspension. Unless you are driving it like a race car, the handling of the SGT is not superior enough for me to justify the rough riding characteristics you will have to deal with. Again, it depends on your roads and use. If my car had to be daily driver I would have sold it already due to the harsh ride. My car also has a Whipple SC, so I can tell you that the supercharged S-GT is MORE than enough power and it will make you pucker more than you care to realize if you aren't careful with it. Same goes for the GT500. Either way you really can't go wrong in the $30-35K price point for a a clean low mileage example. Just get the one you like best - you didn't mention color. You have a much broader color palate on the GT500. Ooh..almost forgot. The SGT is known for having terribly shitty stripes and possible hood scoop issues. Find out if the car you are interested has had any of these addressed. Worse still, if the stripes were replaced with incorrect knock-offs. This is not an easy or a cheap issue to address. Ford used much better vinyl material on the stripes for the GT500s.
  2. Be cautious looking for good "deals" with the stripe removal. My car's paint was damaged from stripe removal, necessitating it being sold to me at a discount. I had the entire car repainted - no regrets. It's way better now than it ever was new.
  3. I've never driven one of these with the Paxton. I have put over 15K miles on my GTH with the Whipple. Like some have stated here, it takes a careful feathering of the gas to keep things under control. The power is instant and you better be sure you have good rubber with proper air pressures, etc. You better also be pointed straight when you get on the gas. If you punch it rolling at 40 or so, the auto will downshift twice and then BANG! Hold on! It's like getting fired out of a canon. From a rolling start you can feel your way to WOT, and then hold on. You will feel each gear chirp off some tire traction, and it accelerates like crazy. Any deficiencies in the road may be scary. I had a lot of fun driving through the tolls in Illinois opening her up each time from the rolling start (: One nice thing is you can custom tune your car to behave anyway you want. On thing I miss about my Whipple install is the rumble of the factory Shelby exhaust - the Whipple whine takes over quickly. My car is tuned with only 9 psi of boost, but she's putting down 450 RWHP with my last street tune. My car has nearly 60K miles and she's still just as strong and snappy as ever.
  4. I think using the GT-H designation without Hertz involved is a huge mistake. Making the car look like a Hertz car is even worse. These post title cars are confusing enough for the public to understand. Shelby just made it worse and in the process is irritating loyal Hertz enthusiasts and owners. No doubt sticking their middle finger up at Hertz corporate as well. I guess we'll now never see another Shelby Hertz car in the future.
  5. Congratulations - these cars are stunning!
  6. To answer your question about current trading values, my short answer is keep it. They are being traded for far less than what they are worth. The market is brutal to these wonderful and historic Shelbys (:
  7. As long as the public decides to compare the Hertz Shelbys to newer technology they will obviously always suffer by comparison. Same goes for "beat on rental" stigma. Then again, so do the 1966 GT350H cars. Doesn't matter to me and the rest of the die hard enthusiasts that appreciate these cars for what they are/were when they were released. They are extremely limited historically significant cars. No more, no less. You either like them and want to pay for them, or you don't.
  8. Why not? What info do you have to support this? I think there are way too many variables to make blanket statements such as these which may confuse the public. My Hertz car was rented for the first 24K miles and obviously shaken out a few times during that stint (: A Whipple was installed at around 25K miles using a conservative tune, large pulley (9 psi) and intercooled setup. My car now has about 50K miles and it's doing awesome with routine maintenance including the original automatic transmission. That's a pretty good testament to the durability of the 4.6 considering all the miles of rental duty prior to supercharging. If somebody wanted to add power to their 20K+ mile Mustang or Shelby that has been well cared for and those miles have a lot of highway to them I see no issue based on my real world experience. I think there are plenty of supercharged Mustangs and Shelbys still kicking that are well into 100K plus miles. I'm not saying the OP should add forced induction to his car, as I don't know how those miles were accumulated or how his car was maintained. I agree it would be a good idea to build up the motor of a 125K mile car before adding power. He also didn't state what his final power and use goals are, so that has a TON to do with this decision.
  9. The only thing Shelby specific you mentioned that was damaged is the hood. You will have a very difficult time finding an original Shelby hood as there were many iterations of this hood back in the day. The fender, bumper, grill, valence and radiator are all Mustang. If your radiator is original, see if you can save the top of it. Any quality professional Mustang restorer should be able to put you back together. If you insist on original date coded parts, you may have to wait and look a long time. The only obvious thing is the fender, which has visible date codes and I agree that finding an original one would be a high priority. That, and the radiator top. Much of the original, so called NOS chrome bumpers that are still around are very expensive and also of poor chrome quality. It used to be the reproductions had better chrome, but that's not the case anymore either. Re-chroming a good original is probably the best bet, but also expensive. If your front valence was the fiberglass R-model type that wasn't original to your car anyway.
  10. That was before he got called out on the BS surrounding his continuation CSX3000 cars, and also while he was still alive. He knew damn well he couldn't get away with building more, so he saved the MSOs with instructions to try again once he was dead - or how the story goes.
  11. The cars in '65 and '66 had painted stripes from Shelby if ordered with them. It was a crude process and they simply laid the painted stripes on top of the factory paint and masked off what they could. They didn't even remove the bumpers. Most of those cars now are restored with modern BC/CC and the stripes are buried in clear with no raised edge against the body work. This is done as owner preference because it looks very nice and is easiest to also maintain and in the case of repair will also be easier in the future. Those of you with failing graphics - the longer you wait the remove them, the more difficult (expensive) they will be to remove.
  12. Yep, this is the proper way. Taking it a step further, expect to take the windshield and rear glass out during this procedure to truly do it right. In my case, I didn't stop there - I went ahead and redid the entire car including painting the lower rocker stripes and lettering. This also allowed me to get rid of all the factory orange peel and what I have now is truly amazing. Not everybody's cup of tea as some fear damaging the "originality" of the car. If you replace even a single vinyl stripe, that argument is already out the window and values have not held up to justify living with a car that isn't the way you ultimately want it. Make these cars fit your desires, and that includes DRIVING them. (:
  13. 1 year old tires are NOT a problem. 6-8 year old tires are. When I'm spending my money I want to make sure I didn't already lose 15% of my tire life before even taking delivery. If so, show me an appropriate discount (:
  14. This happened to me and I had the same feelings knowing full well my tires would age expire before getting worn out on my limited use Shelby. In my case I just asked them to put fresh tires on the car and they ended up "warrantying" the new/old tires. I bought them from a shop that specializes in fitting tires for classic cars and such so they were much more sympathetic than if I had purchased my tires from a chain store.
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