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Madlock

2015-18 GT350 Owners
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About Madlock

  • Rank
    Team Shelby Member

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  • Region
    Southern Plains
  • Interests
    Many

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  1. Still not getting a link. Just created a new account under the same info. Am I good to go?
  2. If it weren’t for the event, I’d do just about anything not to stay at this, or any other, property which engages in the practice of assessing meaningless “Resort Fees” which account for absolutely nothing and guests cannot stay without paying rather than advertising the actual room rate and perhaps not always appearing first atop the list of supposedy least expensive alternatives which meet the search criteria. Othwrwise, I’m very much looking forward to attending.
  3. Any information about whether there will be any “run” from Gardena or elsewhere at the beginning so those of us who’d like to participate can coordinate air travel to the appropriate city?
  4. Cant think of anything less important than appearance to distinguish these two cars from each other.
  5. That depends. Have you resurfaced your rotors? What is their thickness? Are they warped?
  6. 2013-14 GT500 includes a three-piece lower air dam which supposedly must be installed to achieve VMAX but many have left uninstalled entirely due to the upper air dam looking and working well by itself and how easily damaged the lower dam is and how difficult it makes many things like loading to, and off-loading from, a trailer. The lower dam includes a small plastic bag containing instructions and eight small metal clips which secure the lower air dam to the upper. At least it's supposed to include a Hardware bag (as pictured) but, for myriad reasons, not all do. Does anyone know how/where to source replacement clips without buying an entire new lower air dam? Would anyone have a spare set from a previously-sold 2013-14 GT500 or replacement Splitter who'd consider selling them to a needier owner? Thanks in advance for any helpful insight.
  7. I think that's why people who already have a list of bolt-ons even before they've driven their new cars of dealer lots are, more often than not, recipies for disaster. Most of anything they intend to change are things they've only read about and many spend almost no time with the car in stock form to learn what exactly they like (or not) or works best (or not). And the vast majority of them spend more time boasting about the mods they've made putting them to use. And because 90% of mods are intended to make a car more aggressive and less compliant, they also end up making a car that's miserable to drive the 98.3% of the time it's NOT on a track - where they end up using their cars only half as much because they've spent every spare nickel making their cars as low, harsh and awful to be stuck driving in. There's good reasons why makers choose the combinations of parts they do. First and foremost is that they tend to work together reliably. Secondly, they tend to be what most buyers generally will find appealing and NOT make them want to keep taking their car back to the dealership to insist something is wrong. Presuming nothing is broken, the best thing you can do to square away your car's ride is to return as much to stock as possible. That includes the arms and everything else you presume keeps the rear end dialed in. Why? Ford didn't just choose stamped arms because they're cheap. Their compliance (give) and the factory bushings go a long way to determining the car's overall ride characteristics. Then drive the car. A lot. Take notes. Cold days vs hot days. Higher speeds vs lower. Identify exactly what you do and don't like and try to correct out the latter while persevering the former. Do it one component at a time so you know what to attribute for any change you notice. Everything is subjective. Others' definition of "better" or "worse" means diddly. It's "good" if it's how you want it. And the list of original equipment parts is as close as you'll come to a setup that most people are likely to find acceptable. After all, Ford has more time, money and resources to pour into testing various combinations of parts and settings than the whole of every forum you're likely to join - combined.
  8. Welcome to a short-geared supercharged V8, especially if it happened to be on those hockey pucks they call Goodyear F-1 G: 2s which are one of the world's most miserable tires until they've been heated up by a decent amount of spirited driving, even on days when roads already are good and warm.
  9. It's a RAM. They just assume it won't run and call the wrecker anyway.
  10. Thanks. I have one that won't hold any kind of charge which hopefully they will warranty. I'll need to bring in the battery myself since the car is in storage and I'm not about to move the other 3 blocking it to have it towed. LOL Any special trick to removing the battery?
  11. Does anybody know with certainty which type classification the 2013-14 OE batteries happen to be? Are they Standard, AGM or GEL? Much appreciated.
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