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revelx2

Northeast Region
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    35
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About revelx2

  • Rank
    Team Shelby New Member

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  • Region
    Northeast
  • Interests
    Cars and home audio
  1. Matt. Thanks for such a thoughtful reply and excellent advice. I will wait it out and let the market tell me what it's worth. I'm in no rush and don't HAVE to sell. I agree 100% with your assessment of the overall quality of this car. It really is on another level. Steve
  2. Matt. Thanks for the input. Much appreciated. That's some collection you got there. What is your opinion on the price I'm asking? Lots are looking. A few put it on their watch list. No offers yet. Wondering if I priced it a bit high. I'm sure you would know a lot better then me what 'fair' value would be. Thanks again! Steve
  3. It really is a nice piece....Especially with the signed certificate. I have enough hobbies. It took me 21 years to realize I'm not really that into model cars.
  4. Purchased directly from Revell in 1995. The first 60 models sold received a Carroll Shelby hand signed autographed certificate. Mine was # 32 of 60. As new. I displayed it for a couple years then decided it would be best to package it up and store it away for safe keeping. I figured it was time to let it go to someone who could really appreciate it and display it like it should be. Comes with all original packaging, certificate of authenticity, signed Shelby certificate, original envelope that the certificate came in, etc. As I recall the certificate arrived a couple of weeks after the car did. Please make all offers known. I am no collector and am basing my price on similar items...but not the same. I have yet to find one exactly like mine INCLUDING Carroll Shelby's autograph. Thanks for looking and please ask all questions BEFORE committing to buy! I have it listed on ebay at the moment. Any interested parties please feel to contact me directly thru here or my cell (732)598-8346. No texts please. Price is negotiable!! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carroll-Shelby-Racing-Cobra-427-Revell-Creative-Masters-1-20-Scale-Hand-Signed-/111869697907?
  5. Madlock. I think you're onto something here. I was being led to believe that the air bag module in the seat was the causal part. I was surprised to find out the 2010 is the exact same part # as 2011 and 2012. So how could it be 'incorrect'? Further along in the shop manual it specifically names the OCMS module ( passenger weight pressure sensor) as a possible causal part. Further research shows a different part # for 2010, 2011 and 2012. The sensor comes as part of the lower seat pad. Fortunately it's pretty reasonably priced. Not sure if I can detach the sensor and put it on the Recaro but I think we're gonna find out. I'm gonna order it tonight. Ain't this shit fun???
  6. I was lucky enough to find a set of takeoff Recaros from a 2012 GT500 in the same color as mine. Black with the silver stripes. The price was close enough to right so I pulled the trigger. Install was pretty straightforward. Same connectors, same mounting points, etc. They look and feel great. They completely transform the look of the car. One fairly major issue however. The airbag light is now on and the trouble code states incorrect control module installed. I'm sure we'll probably figure it out eventually but I'd rather do it the lazy way and have one of my Shelby buds bail me out! I guess the module in the seat itself may need to be swapped over? My car is a vert. The seats came out of a coupe. Anybody run into this? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!
  7. scpinto. One more question. The SHELBY letters on the front of the hood-are they just the same as the ones on the decklid or something different? Thanks. Steve
  8. Franks. Whatta ya mean adjust the arm to 10.200? 10.200" total length? Sorry for my ignorance but I'm the guy in charge of holding the droplight if ya know what I'm saying.
  9. Figured why there were some eyes on this I'd jump in with my own somewhat related issue. Installed a Steeda adjustable UCA and bracket a year ago on my 2010 GT500. The bracket is chrome moly and ridiculously heavy duty next to the oe one. It is way thicker then stock so the back of the fuel tank has to be modified somewhat to get it to fit. When installed there is a choice of 2 mounting locations for the front of the UCA. I really cannot see how it is possible to mount the arm using the front option. There's just not enough clearance to the tank. So we opted for the holes in the rear to mount the arm. When doing so the total length of the new arm was a full 1.25" longer then the original. It was fully adjusted to it's shortest possible length. We figured 'what the f...let's try it anyway'. So we installed it. Took it for a test drive with no issues. i've put a couple thousand miles since then with no issues whatsoever. No noise. Handles great. Etc. This all took place a year ago with my original 2 piece shaft. Well fast forward to 4 hours ago. We installed a one piece Dynotech shaft. Install was pretty straight forward. We didn't have an analog protractor. So we eyeballed it realizing IF it needed to be adjusted we were already at our extreme with no room left to shorten it. Well that apparently was a mistake. The first bump we hit there was a loud pop (like I ran over a boulder). Pulled it back in after running to Sears to get the aforementioned protractor. Put it back in the air. Checked for damage. Nothing found. The pinion angle is definitely off by a few degrees and the UCA is at it's limit. Anybody run into this or can offer some suggestions. We actually think that the control arm itself...or at least the sleeve is TOO long. it simply cannot be adjusted anywhere close to the stock length...at least not with the front of the arm being mounted to the rear holes of the new Steeda bracket. Again if mounting in the front holes was attempted there is no question the arm itself would make full contact with the tank itself so it cannot be an option. By the time we were threw this afternoon Steeda was closed so I'll try them tomorrow. But in the meantime any ideas or direct me to a posting that addresses my concern would be GREATLY appreciated. I apologize for hijacking the post but it's been a long, frustrating day and i'd love to find an answer.
  10. Very nice. The hood really takes it to another level. I like the way you did it just like the KR. I thought that was gonna be my idea. GET OUT OF MY HEAD!! Thanks for the pics.
  11. Any chance you could forward some pics of your car? I have to admit my opinion is based on some not so great pictures on the BMC website. I emailed them earlier today and they confirmed the spacing on both hoods are essentally the same. I'd prefer to go with the stock stripes. I just need to see better pics or possibly see in person.
  12. Don't know if anybody ever tackled this one. I was considering getting a Super Snake hood (someday when a vendor actually HAS one available) but here is my issue. I have (and love) the conventional GT500 wide Le Mans stripes and want to reapply that style if and when I get a hood. I've never seen anybody run the later model Super Snake hood with wide stripes. I'm not certain but I think the wide stripes would overlap the top cooling vents therefore needing to be modified. Personally for me this kills the 'factory' look and would force me to bail on the idea. The Black Mamba hood sold by BMC Extreme Customs is similar to the Super Snake hood and they show it on their website with the wide stripes. It does what I don't like. It overlaps the vents and it just don't look 'right'. I'm not sure if that hood has the same vent dimensions and placement as the real SS hood. If so then I guess I got my answer. I guess I could call one of the vendors that advertise the SS hood and see if they can get me the dimensions between the vents. If you look at pics of the 2008 KR it shows exactly the look I want. Badass hood with badass stripes. No slicing. No dicing. If anybody has tackled this (or knows the dimensions between the SS hood vents) I would appreciate the input!
  13. Here's my 2 cents. Who really cares about the functionality? The look is what this particular mod is all about. If you have 2007 thru 2009 I say definitely do it. It's definitely a throwback look to the original GT500 and just plain looks badass. A No Brainer. Unfortunately on the 2010 and up body style the scoop is just too narrow. It just doesn't compliment the lines of the car in the least IMHO. Even Shelby must agree as the later model Super Snakes omit that particular 'upgrade'.
  14. It is the same for coupes and convertibles. I verified with Ford before I ordered it. (I also verified the part # using a vin # from a 2012 convertible and looking at its build sheet.) The cataloging leaves a bit to be desired. They will be changing the listing to reflect this oversight on the next catalog update. Like I said in an earlier posting I received it and installed it. Physically it's a direct fit swap with the two extra leads going to the visors. The only l'il problem I experienced is the main harness (although has the correct plug for a direct swap plug in) unfortunately has no wires in that plug to send power to the visors. So some kind of 'rig' will have to take place to bring that power. Running a lead from the overhead console seems to be the obvious choice. At some point this week i will get Joe (The ultimate Ford tech) to guide me how to proceed...after he's done admonishing me for fucking with a $60,000 car to ad two stupid mirrors and a garage door opener.
  15. Yes. The right side has an illuminated vanity mirror that matches the left side visor. Also both have a slide feature that allows more adjustabilty if Mr. Sun isn't being cooperative. The 2012 mirrors in general have a higher quality look and feel as well.
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